"BRAKE FAILURE" What to do?

[TicketBait]

My answer is here and in post # 16

Current Situation, I added about 4 table spoons of DOT4 fluid to front
reservoir and about 3 tablespoons to rear reservoir, rode back about
6 miles around town, got gas and groceries and no current issue,
will post again in about a week to confirm that adding fluid corrected issue, if not and it
reoccurs since I don't know how to check for other things I will take to dealer and still report
back in this same thread, so as to help others that might have same issue.
The other day had the parking light
not disengage after pushing button
on dash. (remained flashing red),
Then turned bike off and then on
again and all was ok, till later on
into my ride the orange screen
"BRAKE FAILURE" came on and then went
off by itself after about 10 seconds.
Thought it might just be me keeping
my foot accidentally on the brake
pedal, or a computer glitch. Dumby
me, forgot about it when I got home,
Rode the bike on a couple short
errands over the next couple days
with no recurring issues, and then
had a work ride planned for a total
of 120 miles, half up to Magic Mountain
then over to Malibu thru the mountain
roads. Was looking forward to it when
just before getting on the freeway for
the first leg of the trip, the parking
brake light came on at the stop light,
press button like four times and it goes
off. Was on a tight schedule and was
running behind so no running back
home and changing rides. So I say
to myself; self "did you tell anybody
about this, like your wife?, just
incase I don't make it back alive,
then I remembered when I had a
sticking brake issue a few years before
and was told by Kurt Otteson of BRP
that when going just a couple miles per
hour the bike brake would not/could
not engage and throw me off. ( That was
comforting to know ), but then I realized what
if the opposite happens and I can't stop! :yikes:

So when traveling back from the mountains I
(didn't want to press my luck) detoured home
to get the cage and leave the bike in
the garage till more was known of the
parking brake issue.

I always profess that when given the
time we(spyderlovers) should research
and read what is necessary from all
the great minds, and others that have
experienced this. So I did that, and had
so many threads to read, I read about
3-4 threads based on thread Title and #
of replies that were very helpful in that
others had this happen, and some
responses were; check for low brake
fluid to check pads to what was the code
for the brake failure, have towed to dealer
to get checked out All helpful suggestions
but not one of the threads I read did the
original poster comeback and post in the same
thread what the outcome and fix was. It
would be nice if the op went back and
edited the first thread saying something
like "The answer is in post #45 of this thread."
but I digress…….When I have this issue
resolved I will go back and do what I suggest,
Infact I will post it in GREEN, so you will have
it jump out at you.

Now if your still with me and reading, I
will share for those of you that don't already
know, I love tools, have many but just don't
know how to use them. Heck I said, I'll go
check the brake reservoir and see if it is low.
But you know what, I didn't know where it
was on the bike and my search didn't come
up with anything until I looked at hundreds
of images of the bike. So I had to take a
picture to share, (this is it, I hope, right under the seat near the back)

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/smileys/SPYDER%20RTS/IMG_4062.jpg


It says to make sure it is clean around the
area before removing the cap, right on the cap ( I love it ):thumbup:

and then tells me to use a sealed DOT4 brake fluid

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/smileys/SPYDER%20RTS/IMG_4063.jpg


So my question is how can I tell if it needs more fluid
or will it be obvious when I remove the caps, and also
why are there two caps (seriously, I don't know) I also
forgot how to check for codes, suppose I can research,
think it's like holding down 2 things on the handle bar
and pressing something like four times. Had all my
brake pads changed out before Spyderfest last year,
so hopefully that's not the issue, "
( have about 8k miles on them , me thinks)

i probably for got to mention something or ask something:read:

ticketbait

[ulflyer]

Check your code and if its a C1282, and you have 15-20K miles on it, it may be the rear brake pads worn. Happened to me and it took many trips to dealer before we figured it out.

[bruiser]

Had the same issue on wife'e 2010 RTS a few years back. Code C0049 came up which indicates brake fluid. Took it to the dealer. Found out brake fluid needs to be changed every two years or 14,000 miles. They took care of it. Having said that, the break fluid level sensor is overly sensitive. You may look at the reservoir and it won't look low. All it might take is a tablespoon of fluid to bring it back to normal. The front cap is the front brake reservoir and the rear cap is the rear brake reservoir. Be very careful and don't spill the brake fluid. It will eat the paint off.

[NancysToy]

There are several possibilities, TB. As you have gathered, it is pretty difficult to pick through them without inspecting your Spyder or at least knowing the active fault codes. Could be low brake fluid, a secondary issue related to worn brake pads, brake pressure failure, or a parking brake problem like the cable coming off the drum. We need to know more or you need to see your dealer.

[SpyderAnn01]

Like Scotty said, check for codes, press the mode, set & turn signal cancel buttons at the same time ( I have found that it helps to also hop on one foot while doing this - just kidding) Is your parking brake working? If not it could be the cable coming off which was caused by a spring that wasn't tough enough.

One warning, brake fluid will eat your paint so don't let any drip on the plastic. You can tell if you are low on fluid by shining a light on the reservoir and looking to see if the fluid comes up to the full line.

[wa3wheels]

:yikes: Drag your new tennys'


The other day had the parking light
not disengage after pushing button
on dash. (remained flashing red),
Then turned bike off and then on
again and all was ok, till later on
into my ride the orange screen
"BRAKE FAILURE" came on and then went
off by itself after about 10 seconds.
Thought it might just be me keeping
my foot accidentally on the brake
pedal, or a computer glitch. Dumby
me, forgot about it when I got home,
Rode the bike on a couple short
errands over the next couple days
with no recurring issues, and then
had a work ride planned for a total
of 120 miles, half up to Magic Mountain
then over to Malibu thru the mountain
roads. Was looking forward to it when
just before getting on the freeway for
the first leg of the trip, the parking
brake light came on at the stop light,
press button like four times and it goes
off. Was on a tight schedule and was
running behind so no running back
home and changing rides. So I say
to myself; self "did you tell anybody
about this, like your wife?, just
incase I don't make it back alive,
then I remembered when I had a
sticking brake issue a few years before
and was told by Kurt Otteson of BRP
that when going just a couple miles per
hour the bike brake would not/could
not engage and throw me off. ( That was
comforting to know ), but then I realized what
if the opposite happens and I can't stop! :yikes:

So when traveling back from the mountains I
(didn't want to press my luck) detoured home
to get the cage and leave the bike in
the garage till more was known of the
parking brake issue.

I always profess that when given the
time we(spyderlovers) should research
and read what is necessary from all
the great minds, and others that have
experienced this. So I did that, and had
so many threads to read, I read about
3-4 threads based on thread Title and #
of replies that were very helpful in that
others had this happen, and some
responses were; check for low brake
fluid to check pads to what was the code
for the brake failure, have towed to dealer
to get checked out All helpful suggestions
but not one of the threads I read did the
original poster comeback and post in the same
thread what the outcome and fix was. It
would be nice if the op went back and
edited the first thread saying something
like "The answer is in post #45 of this thread."
but I digress…….When I have this issue
resolved I will go back and do what I suggest,
Infact I will post it in GREEN, so you will have
it jump out at you.

Now if your still with me and reading, I
will share for those of you that don't already
know, I love tools, have many but just don't
know how to use them. Heck I said, I'll go
check the brake reservoir and see if it is low.
But you know what, I didn't know where it
was on the bike and my search didn't come
up with anything until I looked at hundreds
of images of the bike. So I had to take a
picture to share, (this is it, I hope, right under the seat near the back)

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/smileys/SPYDER%20RTS/IMG_4062.jpg


It says to make sure it is clean around the
area before removing the cap, right on the cap ( I love it ):thumbup:

and then tells me to use a sealed DOT4 brake fluid

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/smileys/SPYDER%20RTS/IMG_4063.jpg


So my question is how can I tell if it needs more fluid
or will it be obvious when I remove the caps, and also
why are there two caps (seriously, I don't know) I also
forgot how to check for codes, suppose I can research,
think it's like holding down 2 things on the handle bar
and pressing something like four times. Had all my
brake pads changed out before Spyderfest last year,
so hopefully that's not the issue, "
( have about 8k miles on them , me thinks)

i probably for got to mention something or ask something:read:

ticketbait

[Highwayman2013]

The brake fluid doesn't have to be very low to get the orange screen of brake failure. Look over everything pads, lines, park brake or have your dealer do it if you aren't comfortable with it. You can block the wheels and have someone work the park brake while you watch it to make sure it is working too.

[gonker]

The very first paragragraph was the clue. Pull the right side covers off the bike and you will see the round pulley that actuates the parking brake. I bet you find the cable that connects to the parking brake popped off the pulley. There is a switch that is triggered by the end of that cable. The error condition went away when you turned the key off and on. Apply the parking brake again and it returns. I am speaking from experience. Simple fix. I remember reading about someone drilling a small hole in the pulley and adding a wire tie to keep the cable end in the hole.

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Have you done any more digging into this problem? :shocked:
The good folks who answered, have certainly given you a couple of items to check.
Waiting to hear what happens next... :bbq::bbq::bbq:

[Jeriatric]

:agree:

TB, why do you live so far away?

Seriously. Wish we were closer.

[Omcge]

I have a 2014 Rt with about 900 miles on it and was going to go for a ride yesterday:banghead:
and on startup had the Brake Failure and limp home light. I don't remember the codes but it had about
5 of them.The parking brake light wouldn't go out but it was releasing .I checked the fluid and the front was filled to the
bottom of the fill inlet,the rear was low,so I filled it the same as the front.Even with a flashlight I couldn't see the fill mark.
After filling with fluid the orange light still wouldn't go off even after starting stopping taking key out etc. so I decided to drive it up and down the driveway .
As soon as I backed up and stopped WA La the Brake Failure Light went out and all appears to be ok now. I checked for leaks ,drips and couldn't find anything.
It appears that the factory did not get the reservoir full.
It turns out that I had it on a jack the day before putting a belt stabilizer on and apparently it triggered the low fluid sensor,which must be very sensitive.
I'm glad it did it at home and not out on the road, that would be very irritating. It makes me think that I should carry a small container of Brake Fluid, it didn't take but maybe a couple of tablespoons to fill it.

[finless]

TB, let me know if you need any help as I would be glad to ride to your place and help you out if needed.

At 4.5K miles I had to add a little (and I mean a little) break fluid to my reservoir. Not that I was getting a break failure warning but when I did my oil change, I checked it and noticed it was a tiny bit low. It's kinda hard to check the level as you cant really see it well in those triangle viewers. Remove the caps and check it that way.

Re: the parking break cable issue. I had a parking break failure light ONCE while on a SRA-LA holloween ride. I knew it probably was the cable hanging up. It happened once and thank god it did not come off the pulley!
I notice yours looks a little dirty on the caps so possibly it's dirty inside where the cable pulley is. What happens over time is the cable drags dirt into the sleeve and causes it to hang up which then can pop it off the pulley. Again while servicing mine and doing the oil change I cleaned the cable up then lubed it with dry silicon lube. It was very dirty when I did this which is probably what caused the parking break failure I had once. This could be your issue?

Bob

[spyderyderjim]

Hi TB,
Clean top of brake cylinder & caps first!!
The brake reservior caps have tabs that fit into slots. Push down & turn to left to remove caps.
Add Dot 4 brake fliud up to bottom of fill inlet on both.
Put caps back on lining up tabs with slots & push down turning to the right.
Your brake alarms should clear just riding a short distance.
The brake fluid has to be filled up to the bottom of fill hole or else you will get an alarm from the sensitive sensor!
Thanks for post; my 2014 RT rear reservoir was low on Dot 4 brake fluid!!
My 2013RT I had was always low on front part of reservoir, as the brake pads wore it needed fluid added.
Re; rear brake cable probably needs Silicone spray lube.
I drilled a tiny hole in black brake pulley where brake cable connection is at top, & put a small wire through hole to keep cable from popping out.
Finless (Bob) can help you.
Hope you are back on the road again!
Enjoy your Spyder.
Jim

[NancysToy]

If the parking brake cable jumps off the pulley, you should see "Brake Failure" and the parking brake icon. The parking brake will not hold and the icon will not disappear, even if you set the parking brake.

If the parking brake rear drum is slow on the return, you may see the same situation as above, but it may clear after some time or a try or two. The same may happen if the park brake is out of adjustment. If you have a 2010 RT be sure the service bulletin to replace the rear parking brake drum spring was checked against your VIN# and the drum/spring replaced if needed.

[TicketBait]

Current Situation, I added about 4 table spoons of DOT4 fluid to front
reservoir and about 3 tablespoons to rear reservoir, rode back about
6 miles around town, got gas and groceries and no current issue,
will post again in about a week to confirm that adding fluid corrected issue, if not and it
reoccurs since I don't know how to check for other things I will take to dealer and still report
back in this same thread, so as to help others that might have same issue.

Before opening caps I cleaned under seat very thorough, heck I was even inspired to wash
my bike, it's suppose to rain next three days, but mine will be sparkling when the sun comes back out.


Code recall:
MODE-SET-TURN SIGNAL CANCEL

I think there is a line engraved on the inside of the reservoir, if not it should be quite full.

Thank you, I did that and a blank light grayish white screen showed nothing,
it was blank, so I think that tells me that even though I got that brief orange
screen message, nothing got registered with a code, :dontknow: I read in another thread (same topic) where no codes after the orange BRAKE FAILURE came on for just 5 seconds.

I even tried it SpyderAnn's way and hopped on one foot, think it was my left foot :roflblack:



Like Scotty said, check for codes, press the mode, set & turn signal cancel buttons at the same time (I have found that it helps to also hop on one foot while doing this - just kidding) Is your parking brake working? If not it could be the cable coming off which was caused by a spring that wasn't tough enough.

One warning, brake fluid will eat your paint so don't let any drip on the plastic. You can tell if you are low on fluid by shining a light on the reservoir and looking to see if the fluid comes up to the full line.
Thanks for that advise also!



Had the same issue on wife'e 2010 RTS a few years back. Code C0049 came up which indicates brake fluid. Took it to the dealer. Found out brake fluid needs to be changed every two years or 14,000 miles. They took care of it. Having said that, the break fluid level sensor is overly sensitive. You may look at the reservoir and it won't look low. All it might take is a tablespoon of fluid to bring it back to normal. The front cap is the front brake reservoir and the rear cap is the rear brake reservoir. Be very careful and don't spill the brake fluid. It will eat the paint off.


Took yours and everyone else's advise to keep brake fluid off paint, I used a large spoon from the kitchen
and practiced with water first to see if I could pour from bottle to spoon to reservoir Did this with flying colors :thumbup:


:yikes: Drag your new tennys'
New tennys!, never! Old tennys now thats a different story. :D


The brake fluid doesn't have to be very low to get the orange screen of brake failure. Look over everything pads,lines, park brake or have your dealer do it if you aren't comfortable with it. You can block the wheels and have someone work the park brake while you watch it to make sure it is working too.
Thank you, seems parking brake is working normal and holding bike in place


TB, let me know if you need any help as I would be glad to ride to your place and help you out if needed.

At 4.5K miles I had to add a little (and I mean a little) break fluid to my reservoir. Not that I was getting a break failure warning but when I did my oil change, I checked it and noticed it was a tiny bit low. It's kinda hard to check the level as you cant really see it well in those triangle viewers. Remove the caps and check it that way.

Re: the parking break cable issue. I had a parking break failure light ONCE while on a SRA-LA holloween ride. I knew it probably was the cable hanging up. It happened once and thank god it did not come off the pulley!
I notice yours looks a little dirty on the caps so possibly it's dirty inside where the cable pulley is. What happens over time is the cable drags dirt into the sleeve and causes it to hang up which then can pop it off the pulley. Again while servicing mine and doing the oil change I cleaned the cable up then lubed it with dry silicon lube. It was very dirty when I did this which is probably what caused the parking break failure I had once. This could be your issue?

Bob
Thanks so much for the offer Bob, When I take my bike in for another issue (muffler) I will have them double check the cables.


If the parking brake cable jumps off the pulley, you should see "Brake Failure" and the parking brake icon. The parking brake will not hold and the icon will not disappear, even if you set the parking brake.

If the parking brake rear drum is slow on the return, you may see the same situation as above, but it may clear after some time or a try or two. The same may happen if the park brake is out of adjustment. If you have a 2010 RT be sure the service bulletin to replace the rear parking brake drum spring was checked against your VIN# and the drum/spring replaced if needed.
Thank you Scotty, when searching another couple of threads about"parking brake Light", this came up from spyderlover billybovine , it was from this thread http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?50608-Parking-Brake-Light&highlight=adding+brake+fluid

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.png Brake Fluid?


I don't think there is any brake fluid involved in the Parking Brake system. It is electromechanical on the RT and separate from the hydraulic service brake, only sharing the same brake pads. Adding brake fluid will not cause any harm but I don't think it will fix anything, unless of course i am missing something.




:shocked: Have you done any more digging into this problem? :shocked:
The good folks who answered, have certainly given you a couple of items to check.
Waiting to hear what happens next... :bbq::bbq::bbq:

Thank You Bob Denman, One of the threads I read was from you I believe, you asked how do you check the fluid level, and no one answered it. Just two people commented, from 2012 , Darn, can't find it now.

[Dragonfly]

I know this is an old thread but might as well post my results here.
Been having the yellow failure light, the red parking brake light staid on and of course the full yellow display when stopping. Same results with my dealer as some posters here other than my dealer said bring it back and start doing continuity checks on the switches.
This problem has been ongoing for last six month, only in the morning (when cool) and only after running over tree ruts and uneven ground at very slow speed might I add. (Back Yard of our Post)
Yesterday I took it back to my dealer, 35 miles with the break failure light flashing still no results.
Starting with the simplest this morning I added 36 ml of Brake Fluid to the rear chamber, front was up to the rim of fill neck. After adding brake fluid I could not reproduce the failure.
The reason my Dealer did not discover the low fluid problem was because by the time I got to his shop the fluid had expanded sufficiently to not indicate low.

[DrewNJ]

Just watch that level now because you don't want it puking down the frame and eating up the paint.

[Czardobbs]

My 2012 RT threw the C0049 error this weekend. After checking the fluid levels, I topped them off. The error code cleared, but I noticed that every time the brake is applied I would see three or four drops of brake fluid fall behind the pedal. I guess I'm off to the dealer...



My answer is here and in post # 16

Current Situation, I added about 4 table spoons of DOT4 fluid to front
reservoir and about 3 tablespoons to rear reservoir, rode back about
6 miles around town, got gas and groceries and no current issue,
will post again in about a week to confirm that adding fluid corrected issue, if not and it
reoccurs since I don't know how to check for other things I will take to dealer and still report
back in this same thread, so as to help others that might have same issue.
The other day had the parking light
not disengage after pushing button
on dash. (remained flashing red),
Then turned bike off and then on
again and all was ok, till later on
into my ride the orange screen
"BRAKE FAILURE" came on and then went
off by itself after about 10 seconds.
Thought it might just be me keeping
my foot accidentally on the brake
pedal, or a computer glitch. Dumby
me, forgot about it when I got home,
Rode the bike on a couple short
errands over the next couple days
with no recurring issues, and then
had a work ride planned for a total
of 120 miles, half up to Magic Mountain
then over to Malibu thru the mountain
roads. Was looking forward to it when
just before getting on the freeway for
the first leg of the trip, the parking
brake light came on at the stop light,
press button like four times and it goes
off. Was on a tight schedule and was
running behind so no running back
home and changing rides. So I say
to myself; self "did you tell anybody
about this, like your wife?, just
incase I don't make it back alive,
then I remembered when I had a
sticking brake issue a few years before
and was told by Kurt Otteson of BRP
that when going just a couple miles per
hour the bike brake would not/could
not engage and throw me off. ( That was
comforting to know ), but then I realized what
if the opposite happens and I can't stop! :yikes:

So when traveling back from the mountains I
(didn't want to press my luck) detoured home
to get the cage and leave the bike in
the garage till more was known of the
parking brake issue.

I always profess that when given the
time we(spyderlovers) should research
and read what is necessary from all
the great minds, and others that have
experienced this. So I did that, and had
so many threads to read, I read about
3-4 threads based on thread Title and #
of replies that were very helpful in that
others had this happen, and some
responses were; check for low brake
fluid to check pads to what was the code
for the brake failure, have towed to dealer
to get checked out All helpful suggestions
but not one of the threads I read did the
original poster comeback and post in the same
thread what the outcome and fix was. It
would be nice if the op went back and
edited the first thread saying something
like "The answer is in post #45 of this thread."
but I digress…….When I have this issue
resolved I will go back and do what I suggest,
Infact I will post it in GREEN, so you will have
it jump out at you.

Now if your still with me and reading, I
will share for those of you that don't already
know, I love tools, have many but just don't
know how to use them. Heck I said, I'll go
check the brake reservoir and see if it is low.
But you know what, I didn't know where it
was on the bike and my search didn't come
up with anything until I looked at hundreds
of images of the bike. So I had to take a
picture to share, (this is it, I hope, right under the seat near the back)

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/smileys/SPYDER%20RTS/IMG_4062.jpg


It says to make sure it is clean around the
area before removing the cap, right on the cap ( I love it ):thumbup:

and then tells me to use a sealed DOT4 brake fluid

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e240/TicketBait/smileys/SPYDER%20RTS/IMG_4063.jpg


So my question is how can I tell if it needs more fluid
or will it be obvious when I remove the caps, and also
why are there two caps (seriously, I don't know) I also
forgot how to check for codes, suppose I can research,
think it's like holding down 2 things on the handle bar
and pressing something like four times. Had all my
brake pads changed out before Spyderfest last year,
so hopefully that's not the issue, "
( have about 8k miles on them , me thinks)

i probably for got to mention something or ask something:read:

ticketbait

[inspectsir]

I have a 2014 Rt with about 900 miles on it and was going to go for a ride yesterday:banghead:
and on startup had the Brake Failure and limp home light. I don't remember the codes but it had about
5 of them.The parking brake light wouldn't go out but it was releasing .I checked the fluid and the front was filled to the
bottom of the fill inlet,the rear was low,so I filled it the same as the front.Even with a flashlight I couldn't see the fill mark.
After filling with fluid the orange light still wouldn't go off even after starting stopping taking key out etc. so I decided to drive it up and down the driveway .
As soon as I backed up and stopped WA La the Brake Failure Light went out and all appears to be ok now. I checked for leaks ,drips and couldn't find anything.
It appears that the factory did not get the reservoir full.
It turns out that I had it on a jack the day before putting a belt stabilizer on and apparently it triggered the low fluid sensor,which must be very sensitive.
I'm glad it did it at home and not out on the road, that would be very irritating. It makes me think that I should carry a small container of Brake Fluid, it didn't take but maybe a couple of tablespoons to fill it.

My wife and I have 2/14's and discovered the same thing, so we do carry some fluid on our bikes.