Cheap frunk operator for 14 RTd

[bluestratos]

Here is a pic of the power door lock actuator I bought open my frunk on the 14 RTSE6. This and the switch cost me $12 from Amazon. The actuator mounting matches the look and the bolt pattern of the stock set up. No complicated wiring is required since it only needs to be powered to operate in one direction. It is gear driven so ample power to push the release arm to pop the trunk. I plan to install the momentary contact switch to operate it in a discrete location and have it powered all the time for convenience. If I were worried about security it could be wired to a ignition circuit wire so it would only open when the bike is running.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61fyvZWvpsL._SL1500_.jpg

[ARtraveler]

Interesting. Let us know how the installation goes and how it works. :thumbup:

[DubuqueSpyderRyder]

[QUOTE=bluestratos;777289]Here is a pic of the power door lock actuator I bought open my frunk on the 14 RTSE6. This and the switch cost me $12 from Amazon. The actuator mounting matches the look and the bolt pattern of the stock set up. No complicated wiring is required since it only needs to be powered to operate in one direction. It is gear driven so ample power to push the release arm to pop the trunk. I plan to install the momentary contact switch to operate it in a discrete location and have it powered all the time for convenience. If I were worried about security it could be wired to a ignition circuit wire so it would only open when the bike it running.


Excellent ! Thanks for your post. Just what I was looking for.

George.

[Hawk]

Might give that PTT button something to do (unless you have the BRP communication system)!!

[Bob Denman]

Do you have a website link? :D :2thumbs:

[bluestratos]

Here is the amazon location for the kit:

Install Essentials 524T 2 Wire Standard Door Lock Actuator Kit Sold by Amazon.com LLC

[Bob Denman]

Cool; Thanks! :2thumbs:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

That sure looks like a knock off of the OEM unit, which I bought for $55. Wish I would have known this one existed. If you haven't already I suggest you go ahead and buy the OEM bracket for about $7. It simplifies the installation greatly.

I take it the '14 LTD doesn't come with an actuator. If you can find a part number for the hood opener switch that used to be, or maybe still is, available a simple wiring change under the center switch group will allow the switch to be added there. Or are all four switch positions being used? Another option, for like about $55 is to buy the combo parking brake/hood switch and plug it right in. The business end of the harness for the actuator should be right under the lights near the hood latch.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Might give that PTT button something to do (unless you have the BRP communication system)!!
Good thought, just won't work. Most, if not all, the buttons on the left multi-switch cluster communicate with the rest of the bike over 2 wires using the CAN system. There's no practical, maybe not even possible, way to use the PTT as a regular push button switch. The left multi-cluster switch is its own little processor! The right hand switch feeds into the left switch.

I'll bet the Spyder is more computerized than you realized!

[Bob Denman]

It is... nojoke

[Cavman]

Direct link:

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Essentials-524T-Standard-Actuator/dp/B001MYL1VK

[pitzerwm]

Goto EBAY those are $5-$10 free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-MOTOR-12-Volt-Car-Auto-Brand-New-/400583186980?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d449e5a24&vxp=mtr

[Dragonrider]

My frunk doesn't have a spring to pop it up - I twist the ignition & have to reach forward to lift the lid up (not a problem with my long arms). So I don't see an advantage?? Am I missing something?

[DrewNJ]

...

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

The springs weren't originally present. I Don't remember the exact year but its fairly recent. The OEM springs are only a few bucks right from the dealer.
I did that on my GS and RSS.................But for my 2014 RT I just put two pieces of stiff foam alongside the catch and it pops up every time ........just sayin, Mike :thumbup:

[Dragonrider]

Thanks Mike - I'll give that a try. :thumbup:

[Andy Cserny]

I'm always afraid I will break the key off in the ignition and this sounds like a good idea whether its switched or always on demand. Does one then disconnect the cable that runs to the ignition switch? will the actuator arm return automatically once the trunk latch has opened/, where can I find a waterproof ON momentary OFF switch? I am sure I can eventually figure it all out, but I'd rather not invent the wheel if some good samaritan will share the specifics.
Thanks
Andy

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I'm always afraid I will break the key off in the ignition and this sounds like a good idea whether its switched or always on demand. Does one then disconnect the cable that runs to the ignition switch? will the actuator arm return automatically once the trunk latch has opened/, where can I find a waterproof ON momentary OFF switch? I am sure I can eventually figure it all out, but I'd rather not invent the wheel if some good samaritan will share the specifics.
Thanks
Andy
:gaah:....Andy, I don't know if you ever saw my Post about " Breaking the Key while releasing the SEAT LOCK "...........This is where you are more likely to break the KEY.....What I did was to partially open the seat lock by using wire on the SEAT LATCH to hold it 90 % open ....ALL the time ......Yes, it no longer LOCKS ,I just pull up on the seat in the front to open it ......I no longer have to use the IGNITION KEY...........I bought the wire at Home Depot, it's called Galvanized Steel wire 16 Ga., it's made for twist ties , it doesn't break like copper wire .....................IMHO the amount of pressure needed to open the seat is more likely to break the KEY than that of the FRUNK ....at least on my RT.......................Mike :thumbup:

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Does one then disconnect the cable that runs to the ignition switch?
No.


will the actuator arm return automatically once the trunk latch has opened/,
Yes. It releases the latch and then returns to home position. It's really not an arm. It's a plunger.


where can I find a waterproof ON momentary OFF switch? I am sure I can eventually figure it all out, but I'd rather not invent the wheel if some good samaritan will share the specifics.
NAPA has one, but it's big. Your best bet is to just search Google or Amazon and look for a weatherproof push button switch. I bought a weatherproof toggle from some online marine supplier.

[Andy Cserny]

No.


Yes. It releases the latch and then returns to home position. It's really not an arm. It's a plunger.


NAPA has one, but it's big. Your best bet is to just search Google or Amazon and look for a weatherproof push button switch. I bought a weatherproof toggle from some online marine supplier.

got these from DEl City, it is an OFF momentary ON switch and they can be fitted with a waterproof rubber cover.

7100011 SPST (ON)-OFF Push Button Switch, Round, $3.40 $3.40
1 7900002 Black Push Button Boot (1 MIN) $2.89 $2.89
I plan on mounting them somewhere on the left side on the tupperware and switched to the ignition so they will essentially be locked except when the key is turned ON
Andy

[Andy Cserny]

:gaah:....Andy, I don't know if you ever saw my Post about " Breaking the Key while releasing the SEAT LOCK "...........This is where you are more likely to break the KEY.....What I did was to partially open the seat lock by using wire on the SEAT LATCH to hold it 90 % open ....ALL the time ......Yes, it no longer LOCKS ,I just pull up on the seat in the front to open it ......I no longer have to use the IGNITION KEY...........I bought the wire at Home Depot, it's called Galvanized Steel wire 16 Ga., it's made for twist ties , it doesn't break like copper wire .....................IMHO the amount of pressure needed to open the seat is more likely to break the KEY than that of the FRUNK ....at least on my RT.......................Mike :thumbup:

Hi Mike,
thanks for the heads up on thiss. I wonder if using a softer spring might solve this problem. I hate not to lock the seat since I have put my fuse holder for all the farkles, the auxiliary relay for the farkles and the positive and negative auxiliary distribution panels under the seat. I can just see some 13 yo mischievious kid with a screwdriver seeing what he can do under there. I have to quit working on the Spyder and devote my attention to the boat if I am going to take it to Florida for the winter.
Andy

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Hi Mike,
thanks for the heads up on thiss. I wonder if using a softer spring might solve this problem. I hate not to lock the seat since I have put my fuse holder for all the farkles, the auxiliary relay for the farkles and the positive and negative auxiliary distribution panels under the seat. I can just see some 13 yo mischievious kid with a screwdriver seeing what he can do under there. I have to quit working on the Spyder and devote my attention to the boat if I am going to take it to Florida for the winter.
Andy.........Andy you could be right on the spring pressure......I didn't want to dis-assemble it.........I chose the simple way for my purposes...............IMHO tho I think it may be the length and routing of the cable............................I got your very interesting PM.............small world :ohyea: