2014 Spyder RT Oil Change

[Texas]

Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.

Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
• 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
• Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
• Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
• Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
• Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil

Step 1:
As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
– Side panel
– Top side panel
Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3450/13026154343_2e671f5092_b.jpg

Step 2:
Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.

The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7330/13026153133_edce51544d_b.jpg

Step 3:
Remove the dipstick.

Step 4:
You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2640/13026152063_dcee2794fb_b.jpg

Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7324/13026381274_8e58866b6b_b.jpg

You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/13026379984_af694cf090_b.jpg

Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3378/13025992655_6b2b9f93a8_b.jpg

Step 5:
Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.

Step 6:
Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.

Step 7:
Install the new filter:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/13025991485_8b5ce6fe45_b.jpg

Step 8:
After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.

Step 9:
Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
(From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)

Step 10:
For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.

Step 11:
Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.

Step 12:
Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.

Step 13:
Install all removed body panels.

[murphybrown]

I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again. :thumbup:

[ulflyer]

Does the old oil filter come out with the cover, or do you just pull it out with your fingers?

[SpyRyd]

Still have to remove the RH mirror to remove the body panels? Please say no :pray:.

[Highwayman2013]

Looks like they don't have a kit for the 2014 oil change yet with all the parts listed.

[NancysToy]

Nice job on the tutorial! I was surprised when you didn't say anything about inspecting and cleaning the oil tank screen. In looking at the parts list I found no oil tank? I take it from that the new engine is a wet sump system? You learn something new every day.

[PMK]

Nice job on the tutorial! I was surprised when you didn't say anything about inspecting and cleaning the oil tank screen. In looking at the parts list I found no oil tank? I take it from that the new engine is a wet sump system? You learn something new every day.

Like the OP, I have been getting prepared for the first service which I too may accomplish very soon.

In reading the manual, and looking at parts books, the engine is described as a Dry Sump. It sounds as if the engine scavenge pump is routing the fluid back to the gearbox and using the gearbox area as a holding tank. The oil is common to the engine and gearbox.

In regards to removing all the body work on the right side, the OP can comment, but I do believe it will require removing the mirror and some trim, then the side fairing.

This topic sure made some some details better explained. By chance, did you happen to photo the engine drain plug. It sounds like and from the parts book, this drain has two o rings plus a crush washer. Do you recall?

Thanks
PK

[Texas]

I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again. :thumbup:

I don't know what tools are included with the Spyder, as I don't use those tools as my main tools. I haven't had the chance to get around to opening that bag to see what is in there. However, most people will not generally have a 36mm socket, or the T40 & T45 Torx bits. I had the T40 and T45, but didn't have the 36mm socket. I didn't mind having to go out and purchase this, as it gives me an excuse to buy a tool I didn't have :) I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).

[Texas]

Does the old oil filter come out with the cover, or do you just pull it out with your fingers?


You simply pull it out with your fingers. It is simple to do and if you had let the oil drain for about an hour, the filter is not covered in oil, so it isn't messy at all.

[Texas]

Looks like they don't have a kit for the 2014 oil change yet with all the parts listed.

I wasn't able to find a kit either. That's why I listed all of the part numbers; so you can put them on your smart phone and take it in to the dealership and just rattle off the part numbers to the parts guy. It makes it a lot quicker than having the parts guy/gal look them up.

[Texas]

Like the OP, I have been getting prepared for the first service which I too may accomplish very soon.

In reading the manual, and looking at parts books, the engine is described as a Dry Sump. It sounds as if the engine scavenge pump is routing the fluid back to the gearbox and using the gearbox area as a holding tank. The oil is common to the engine and gearbox.

In regards to removing all the body work on the right side, the OP can comment, but I do believe it will require removing the mirror and some trim, then the side fairing.

This topic sure made some some details better explained. By chance, did you happen to photo the engine drain plug. It sounds like and from the parts book, this drain has two o rings plus a crush washer. Do you recall?

Thanks
PK

Yes, there are two o-rings and a washer that will need to be replaced on the engine drain plug (I had listed those parts in the list at the beginning of my first post). I didn't bother taking a picture of the plug.

The plastic that will need to be removed is the main right side cover (BRP refers to this as the 'Top Side Panel'), the panel behind that panel, the small, black, right corner cover that is found when you open the frunk, and the mirror.

[Jeriatric]

Well done Texas. :thumbup:

[Texas]

Still have to remove the RH mirror to remove the body panels? Please say no :pray:.

Yes, the mirror has to be removed in order to take off the main side panel. If this scares you and you want to do your own service, I suggest you go out to your garage and pop the mirror off right now. It is very simple to do it, and while hitting your Spyder may seem wrong, hitting the mirror to get it off is the way BRP designed the removal of the mirror. The attachment system was engineered for this, so you are not going to break it (known as a 'break-away' mirror). Once you have the mirror off, and the turn signal plug disconnected, spend some time inspecting the mirror's attachment system. I provided this picture for you:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/13038085714_e45a1ac79c_b.jpg

Notice how the top clip only attaches one way. This means that this is the first clip to be attached. Once you move that clip into position, you simply hit the mirror from the right, toward the attachment system. Your hand sort of acts like a 'soft hammer'.

Doing this gives you an excellent indication as to how the mirror has to be taken off. Other people may have a different way, but I first hit the far side of the mirror (on the blinker side). This will disconnect the left clip you see in the picture. I then hit the mirror from the bottom, which forces the mirror to disconnect the bottom right clip you see in the picture. After that, the mirror simply lifts off the top right clip.

I don't know how to be more descriptive than that. I suggest you practice this a few times. You'll get it, and once you do, taking the plastic off the RT is no big deal. I've taken the plastic off of many motorcycles before, and BRP has done one of the best jobs I've ever seen for being the most "user friendly"; without being a Spyder RT certified technician.

[SpyRyd]

Yes, the mirror has to be removed in order to take off the main side panel. If this scares you and you want to do your own service, I suggest you go out to your garage and pop the mirror off right now. It is very simple to do it, and while hitting your Spyder may seem wrong, hitting the mirror to get it off is the way BRP designed the removal of the mirror. The attachment system was engineered for this, so you are not going to break it (known as a 'break-away' mirror). Once you have the mirror off, and the turn signal plug disconnected, spend some time inspecting the mirror's attachment system. I provided this picture for you:

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3698/13038085714_e45a1ac79c_b.jpg

Notice how the top clip only attaches one way. This means that this is the first clip to be attached. Once you move that clip into position, you simply hit the mirror from the right, toward the attachment system. Your hand sort of acts like a 'soft hammer'.

Doing this gives you an excellent indication as to how the mirror has to be taken off. Other people may have a different way, but I first hit the far side of the mirror (on the blinker side). This will disconnect the left clip you see in the picture. I then hit the mirror from the bottom, which forces the mirror to disconnect the bottom right clip you see in the picture. After that, the mirror simply lifts off the top right clip.

I don't know how to be more descriptive than that. I suggest you practice this a few times. You'll get it, and once you do, taking the plastic off the RT is no big deal. I've taken the plastic off of many motorcycles before, and BRP has done one of the best jobs I've ever seen for being the most "user friendly"; without being a Spyder RT certified technician.

Thanks. I've owned a12 RT Ltd for about 22 months now and have taken the mirrors off several times for various reasons. As you mentioned it's not a big deal after doing it a few times. Thanks for the detailed, picture documented, oil change procedures. I've bookmarked this post for future use. I'm not a 14 owner...yet. Taking a test ryde on Tuesday. It's my understanding that the ACE 1330 w/ 6 speed tranny is a hard combo to resist. Just hope I'm not so enamored by the test ryde that I wind up not negotiating a reasonable deal. Thanks again.

[NancysToy]

In reading the manual, and looking at parts books, the engine is described as a Dry Sump. It sounds as if the engine scavenge pump is routing the fluid back to the gearbox and using the gearbox area as a holding tank. The oil is common to the engine and gearbox.
Interesting! Thanks for the update. I have never heard of anything quite like this...very innovative. I like the idea that the gearbox is always wet. That should help prevent corrosion and other problems caused by oil draining off in long-term storage.

[Purple Guy]

Thanks for posting this, very informative! :2thumbs:

[ulflyer]

Did mine this PM and while BRP was kind enough to make openings in the belly pans for the oil to drain, the openings aren't quite large enough and some oil drained onto the belly pans and puddled on the floor. I'll know next time and devise some solution to prevent this; probably just dremel out the openings a little.

The plug on the left side, the one with the O rings, Torx 40, wouldn't budge. Had the same problem with my '11. Took a small chisel and gave it a couple taps on the edge with a hammer and it loosened right up.

Five quarts brought it half way between the fill lines (knobs). When filling, the oil goes in fairly slow so don't give it a big dump or you may have oil running all over.

Now that I know the drill, it'll be easier next time, and hopefully not so messy.

I used Castrol Actevo Blend 10-40 motorcycle oil. Jaso Ma2. My Walmart carrys this now $5.98 qt. Can be ordered online cheaper tho.

[Jim&Teresa]

Really nice job of documenting - :thumbup: thanks....

Do you have a picture of the engine drain plug? Just interested on what that looks like.

Thanks for taking time to share the procedure and photo's....:clap::clap:

[billybovine]

Interesting! Thanks for the update. I have never heard of anything quite like this...very innovative. I like the idea that the gearbox is always wet. That should help prevent corrosion and other problems caused by oil draining off in long-term storage.

The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys. :joke:
See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

84535

[Jim&Teresa]

Did mine this PM and while BRP was kind enough to make openings in the belly pans for the oil to drain, the openings aren't quite large enough and some oil drained onto the belly pans and puddled on the floor. I'll know next time and devise some solution to prevent this; probably just dremel out the openings a little.

The plug on the left side, the one with the O rings, Torx 40, wouldn't budge. Had the same problem with my '11. Took a small chisel and gave it a couple taps on the edge with a hammer and it loosened right up.

Five quarts brought it half way between the fill lines (knobs). When filling, the oil goes in fairly slow so don't give it a big dump or you may have oil running all over.

Now that I know the drill, it'll be easier next time, and hopefully not so messy.

I discovered this useful post from "sinkhole" posted back in 2010 -- used the hose on my 2012 RT Limited (and it worked great), but have not done an oil change on the 2014 RT Limited yet so I don't know if this trick still applies to keep oil off the belly pans....FYI (I bought a short piece of this clear hose at Ace True Value -- you can buy it by the foot there):

To prevent oil from running onto the pan beneath the oil tank when draining the oil, insert a 2" long section of 1" diameter clear plastic hose through the hole in the pan, and over the boss on the bottom of the tank. This will allow passage of the hex extension through the hose so that the plug can be removed. Once the oil has been drained, the hose can be removed and the plug replaced. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/misc/paperclip.png Attached Thumbnails http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32011&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1315517901 (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=32011&d=1315517901)

[NancysToy]

The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys. :joke:
See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

84535

Thanks. Apparently there is no oil screen to clean? It is not listed in the maintenance schedule.

[PMK]

The whole front of the engine is the oil tank. A plastic bowl for the front and sides and the back wall is the engine. A dry sump engine without an oil tank that's pretty funny guys. :joke:
See item 37 that's the oil tank. Item 22 is the engine oil tank screen.

84535


I guess my bad then, I was under the impression that there was no tank based on the method of checking the oil level. The engine must be run then shut down to check the level t be on the dipstick. The true oil level is a hot oil check.

As for dry sump engines with no oil tank. How would we classify the modern four stroke Japanese MX machines.

PK

[Texas]

Did mine this PM and while BRP was kind enough to make openings in the belly pans for the oil to drain, the openings aren't quite large enough and some oil drained onto the belly pans and puddled on the floor. I'll know next time and devise some solution to prevent this; probably just dremel out the openings a little.

The plug on the left side, the one with the O rings, Torx 40, wouldn't budge. Had the same problem with my '11. Took a small chisel and gave it a couple taps on the edge with a hammer and it loosened right up.

Five quarts brought it half way between the fill lines (knobs). When filling, the oil goes in fairly slow so don't give it a big dump or you may have oil running all over.

Now that I know the drill, it'll be easier next time, and hopefully not so messy.

I didn't even have one drip on the floor. However, the clearance between the bottom of the RT and the floor is not ideal, so it was very difficult to accomplish. My thinking is that next time I will drive the front end of the RT onto my vehicle ramps, then lift the rear to be the same height (however I haven't done any research on the lift point for the rear). This would give ample clearance making it not only much easier to remove the drain plugs, but also give me the opportunity to properly clean the bottom of the RT.

As far as removing the drain plugs; I used a torque wrench, which made it very easy.

I didn't have any issues filling the oil. I use a funnel with a small orifice, so that forces me to keep the flow at a rate under that which the RT can accept. At the rate I had to fill at, it took a while to add the 5.6qts.

[ulflyer]

I didn't even have one drip on the floor. However, the clearance between the bottom of the RT and the floor is not ideal, so it was very difficult to accomplish. My thinking is that next time I will drive the front end of the RT onto my vehicle ramps, then lift the rear to be the same height (however I haven't done any research on the lift point for the rear). This would give ample clearance making it not only much easier to remove the drain plugs, but also give me the opportunity to properly clean the bottom of the RT.

As far as removing the drain plugs; I used a torque wrench, which made it very easy.

I didn't have any issues filling the oil. I use a funnel with a small orifice, so that forces me to keep the flow at a rate under that which the RT can accept. At the rate I had to fill at, it took a while to add the 5.6qts.

I jacked mine up and put 8" wood blocks I had made for my previous '11 under all three wheels so that gave me lots of room. My issue with my T40 socket is that it was not a good tight fit and almost felt like it might strip, and that would have been a real problem; I doubt any dealer even has a plug in stock. Thats why I used the chisel, a method used by old timers for many years.

[Texas]

I jacked mine up and put 8" wood blocks I had made for my previous '11 under all three wheels so that gave me lots of room. My issue with my T40 socket is that it was not a good tight fit and almost felt like it might strip, and that would have been a real problem; I doubt any dealer even has a plug in stock. Thats why I used the chisel, a method used by old timers for many years.

Yeah, the T40 fits, but it does twist a bit in the drain plug. I wasn't very happy about that. The upside is that the T45 fits perfectly in the other drain plug with no twist.

[Texas]

Fair disclosure here,I have not seen a new rt, but are you sure it is a torx on the drain plug?

Many owners of previous RT models thought it was a torx and it wasn't (allen).

Being that the bolt is underneath the RT, and my eyes aren't as good as they used to be, I tried both metric and SAE allen wrenches, but they wouldn't fit. I can also say that the other drain plug is definitely a T45, so it wouldn't make sense to me that they would make one an allen, and the other a torx.

[ulflyer]

Fair disclosure here,I have not seen a new rt, but are you sure it is a torx on the drain plug?

Many owners of previous RT models thought it was a torx and it wasn't (allen).


Roger, it sure is a torx. I didn't believe it either and tried various hex wrenches; none fit. Once I finally got the "t40" out it was evident that it is a Torx. By my trying to make a hex fit, I think I may have stretched it a little but in putting it back it tightened nicely.

Then I had the pleasure of draining the oil a second time as I inadvertently put in 20-50!
The second time I used the torx 40 to remove and later replace.

I think BRP likes to keep us guessing...........:D

[bobbobtar]

FYI 36mm socket also removes the rear axle nut.

[Omcge]

Nice Job
How many miles did you have on it?

[ulflyer]

Nice Job
How many miles did you have on it?

I did mine at 1500.

[Texas]

Nice Job
How many miles did you have on it?

Just over 1,000 miles.

[SpongeBob]

What oil did you use ...

... 5W40 as specified

... BRP

... or another brand ?

[Texas]

What oil did you use ...

... 5W40 as specified

... BRP

... or another brand ?


I only use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic.

[ulflyer]

I only use Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic.

Texas, would you do us a favor and have it lab tested when you hit 4,000 miles, or thereabouts? It would be great to see how the viscosity holds up as that oil is readily avail everywhere and relatively inexpensive.

A lot of big bikers use Rotella T5, 15-40, with excellent results. Most of us were leery of using these oils in our 998's due to a couple of reports of clutch slipping.

I'll lab test the Castrol blend I have in mine if I can get at least 3K miles on it before I leave for Spyderfest in late April. I want to have Amsoil and filter in before I go for the long haul.

[Texas]

Texas, would you do us a favor and have it lab tested when you hit 4,000 miles, or thereabouts? It would be great to see how the viscosity holds up as that oil is readily avail everywhere and relatively inexpensive.

A lot of big bikers use Rotella T5, 15-40, with excellent results. Most of us were leery of using these oils in our 998's due to a couple of reports of clutch slipping.

I'll lab test the Castrol blend I have in mine if I can get at least 3K miles on it before I leave for Spyderfest in late April. I want to have Amsoil and filter in before I go for the long haul.

From the Owner's Manual:
"Use the XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH, SG or higher classification. Always check the API service label on the oil container."

Rotella T6 Specs:
API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, SM, SL, SH; ACEA E9; Caterpillar ECF-3, ECF-2; Cummins CES 20081; DDC 93K218; Ford WSS M2C171-E; JASO DH-2, MA; Mack EO-O Premium Plus; MB Approval 228.31; Volvo VDS-4

http://s02.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/rotella/downloads/pdf/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf - Has a lot of great information about Rotella T6

I'll let you know if I experience any clutch slipping. I'm not going to recommend any one oil over another; as I know that a lot of people can take oil discussions to the extreme. This being said, I've been using this oil in all of my vehicles for the past few years with no issues, so I will continue to use it.

[PatrickH]

Hello MurphyBrown,

I noticed in your info piece about your '14 RT, White Knight (that was the name, btw, of the White GL1800 I traded for my new '14 RT) that you listed Baker Bilt in your equipment listing. Is that Baker Bilt Wind WIngs? If YES, how do you like them? I had them on my GL1800 and liked them a lot.

Regards,
Patrick H


I was very impressed with your step by step directions and pics. I read every word and at the first "pick up tool". I made decision...yep this is a dealer service for me .. Probably be prudent to have plastic handy as my quick calculations says if I get out for $200 plus oil (which I provide-AMSOIL fan that I am) I will 'feel' OK...how long did it take..kinda want to estimate shop hrs...I realllly love surprises BUT not when it comes to my budget...thanks again. :thumbup:

[PatrickH]

Hello Bobbobtar,

Is that 36mm socket a 6 point? or a 12 point socket?

Regards, PatrickH


FYI 36mm socket also removes the rear axle nut.

[mindman]

Thanks for the instructions Texas! Definitely saving this for future ref.

[Chupaca]

the good thing is if you have to get the 36mm socket you now can adjust the belt as well...:thumbup: Seems like a spin on filter would be the way to go..??

[finless]

I prefer two 36mm wrenches (I bought 1 and cut it in half). This for me makes it easier to adjust the belt and then snug down the axel. In fact the 1/2 wrenches dont give you a lot of leverage so using my full force with them almost gets me to the torque spec :)
Then I use a socket with torque wrench to finish it off.

Bob

[dshack7]

Thanks for the great instructions on the oil change. I've done my own on other bikes and vehicles I've had and have no concern about the mechanics -- esp. after reading your details and looking at the pics.

However, I am worried that I'll damage the mirrors and/or panels when I try to take them off. It's got to be fairly simple, but I need some reassurance, I guess. Is there some kind of video that can help with that? I have the 2014 RT Limited ed. and my wife and I love it. Had it about 2 mos. and over 4000 miles on it.

Where do I find out if I have 5.2L or 4.9L? (probably some sticker somewhere). Thanks in advance:D

[ulflyer]

Thanks for the great instructions on the oil change. I've done my own on other bikes and vehicles I've had and have no concern about the mechanics -- esp. after reading your details and looking at the pics.

However, I am worried that I'll damage the mirrors and/or panels when I try to take them off. It's got to be fairly simple, but I need some reassurance, I guess. Is there some kind of video that can help with that? I have the 2014 RT Limited ed. and my wife and I love it. Had it about 2 mos. and over 4000 miles on it.

Where do I find out if I have 5.2L or 4.9L? (probably some sticker somewhere). Thanks in advance:D


If your RT is a paddle shifter, then it holds 5.2. Put in 5, run motor or better yet ride it, then top off as needed.

[hillrider]

Has anyone found a source other than BRP for the o-rings and gaskets. The filter isn't outrageous but the o-rings are.

[Orange Spyder Man]

I plan to change my own oil after the 1st dealer service... so I went looking for a 36mm socket to fit the oil filter housing nut since I did not have one... I found one at a pawn shop.. its a Snap On ... practically brand new .. I paid $6.00 for it at a pawn shop..

OSM

[Cruzr Joe]

The instructions and photos here are great, i printed them out and made a little booklet for further use.

Thank You

Cruzr Joe

[pjweimer]

The instructions and photos here are great, i printed them out and made a little booklet for further use.

Thank You

Cruzr Joe

Was there supposed to be a link added to this comment?

[Purple Guy]

Excellent step by step instructions! :clap:

I really appreciate the effort you put into your tutorial!

[Questions]

:thumbup:This is by far the best and most informative instruction post I have seen here.:thumbup::thumbup:

[ulflyer]

Has anyone found a source other than BRP for the o-rings and gaskets. The filter isn't outrageous but the o-rings are.


Use the O rings several times between changes. Inspect them
each change and if there are no tears or abrasions they are still good. I plan on changing mine the next oil change.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Has anyone found a source other than BRP for the o-rings and gaskets. The filter isn't outrageous but the o-rings are...............................JMHO......I think just about any Auto parts store can match up your BRP " O- RINGS " , but as uflyer suggested and I do also if it's not broken or damaged re-use the old one ......But you can get one as a spare now in case you need it later ...................Mike :thumbup:......................................... ......................PS......You must tel them what you are using this " O " ring for so they can sell you one rated for the temps that may be encountered !!!!!!!!..............................Thanks Paul

[hillrider]

I don't know what tools are included with the Spyder, as I don't use those tools as my main tools. I haven't had the chance to get around to opening that bag to see what is in there. However, most people will not generally have a 36mm socket, or the T40 & T45 Torx bits. I had the T40 and T45, but didn't have the 36mm socket. I didn't mind having to go out and purchase this, as it gives me an excuse to buy a tool I didn't have :) I can justify the cost of any tool because not only am I saving a lot of money by doing my own service, but doing my own service helps me to learn more about the RT that I would not have known if I had the dealership perform the work, and it eliminates any fear of taking the plastic off (this is my third time for taking the plastic off).

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.

[bluestratos]

I just completed my second oil change on my 14 a few weeks back. It took less than 1 hour including re and re mirror and panels.
This is very much a do it your self project. When putting the new O rings on the metal drain plug be sure to wrap the metal threads in masking tape before rolling the new O ring back on to prevent damage from the sharp threads.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.
:agree:.....It's absolutely a 6 mm Allen....I checked with a Mirror and flashlite first, because my 08 GS and 11 RSS both had 6 MM Allen's too................Mike :thumbup:

[PMK]

..............................JMHO......I think just about any Auto parts store can match up your BRP " O- RINGS " , but as uflyer suggested and I do also if it's not broken or damaged re-use the old one ......But you can get one as a spare now in case you need it later ...................Mike :thumbup:

I have not researched sizes or material yet. Consider though, the green O rings are not typical materials from the parts store. They may have the size, but if they are black it is not the same. I deal with the green O rings often in high performance suspension dampers. These I believe, like the BRP stuff is Flouro or viton material. Better at high heat and won't breakdown. Also consider, different materials could have different durometer ratings or how firm the rubber compound rates. Saying this, is could be possible the oil filter cap would not seat before failing.

I was hoping to use Stat-O-Seals for crush washer replacements, but the dimensions needed seem inadequate to seal properly.

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.de7b26ee6a659c147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=fcc9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCR D&vgnextcatid=3444&vgnextcat=FASTENER+SEAL%2C+STAT-O-SEAL&vgnextfmt=EN

Regardless of what you buy or where you get them, be careful.

Also, the tip of wrapping with tape is valid. Personally I do not use masking tape, but would use plastic electrical tape or if possible a small section of heavy plastic bag.

If you do plan to shop on your own, I have used these guys with excellent results. You will need to sort out the sizes, material and part numbers on your own.

http://www.theoringstore.com/

PK

[Roadster Renovations]

Excellent tutorial on the oil change. Plan on doing mine tomorrow. One thought I had, I use a lot of green O rings in R134 A/C work. Wonder if they are the same material? Be nice to find a secondary source for parts.

[coz]

Do yourself a favor. Get what you need from Bajaron. So what if it's two dollars more. Ron is one of the best vendors on this site, and should be supported. His service is excellent.:thumbup: JMHO

[PMK]

Do yourself a favor. Get what you need from Bajaron. So what if it's two dollars more. Ron is one of the best vendors on this site, and should be supported. His service is excellent.:thumbup:

Last I heard, Ron had posted a while back he was trying to source the items. I am not sure if he has them available or not at this time. Hopefully he will mention if the items are available.

PK

[jcthorne]

My OEM and replacement o-rings are black, not green. Both filters.

[PMK]

My OEM and replacement o-rings are black, not green. Both filters.

Guess your 13 uses different "o"rings than a 14.

My 2014 oem "o" rings are mixed with some green and some black.

PK

[kngfsh27]

Well I decided to do my first oil change on my Spyder RT-S tonight. Even though the process is somewhat documented in the Operator's Guide, I find it a bit difficult to follow. That, combined with the fact you will need several parts to complete the job, I thought I would document the procedure the best I could to fill in some of the gaps that BRP left out.

Besides the tools you will need to do the job, you will also need the following parts to perform the oil change:
• 5.3L/5.6qts (SE6), or 4.9L/5.2qts (SM6)
BRP's Recommendation: (XPS 4-STROKE SYNTH. BLEND OIL (SUMMER) (P/N 293 600 121) or a 5W40 semi-synthetic (minimum) or synthetic motorcycle oil meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification
• Oil Filter - BRP #420956743 - $15.99
• Large Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420850482 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420950812 - $9.99
• Small Oil filter O-Ring - BRP #420650927 - $9.99
• Engine Gasket Ring - BRP #420430623 - $1.49
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420250460 - $5.99
• Engine O-Ring - BRP #420430115 - $5.99
• Copper Washer for Gearbox Drain Plug - BRP #420250640 - $0.99
Total Cost of Parts - $60.42 + Cost of Oil

Step 1:
As in the guide, remove the following RH body panels.
– Side panel
– Top side panel
Once these are removed, the oil filter will be exposed as seen just to the right of the middle of the following picture:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3450/13026154343_2e671f5092_b.jpg

Step 2:
Place an appropriate drain pan under the RT. This drain pan will need to be large enough to capture the oil. You will need to remove two drain plugs on the bottom of the RT to allow the oil to flow into the pan. Most of the oil will come out of the engine (I'm guessing about 80%), so if your drain pan isn't large enough to capture all of the oil, then you can do one plug; discard the oil; then do the other plug. Discard both crush washers.

The gearbox drain plug is located just under the oil dipstick. This requires a T40 tool to remove. The engine drain plug one is located on the left side of the RT and requires a T45 to remove. You can view the Operator's Guide for a drawing that depicts their exact locations, however, it lists the descriptions of each of these drain plugs incorrectly (it has them reversed). So please make special note of this. While there is no magnet on the engine drain plug, notice the amount of metal deposits that collected on the magnet of the gearbox drain plug in just over the first 1,000 miles:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7330/13026153133_edce51544d_b.jpg

Step 3:
Remove the dipstick.

Step 4:
You will need a 36mm socket to remove the oil filter cover:
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2640/13026152063_dcee2794fb_b.jpg

Using the 36mm socket and a socket driver, unscrew oil filter cover:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7324/13026381274_8e58866b6b_b.jpg

You can now lift the cover off, but hold a paper towel under the cover as you lift it off to catch the dirty oil as it will drip off:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/13026379984_af694cf090_b.jpg

Notice there is more to the cap than just a cap, so keep this in mind as you raise the cap. Also notice the o-rings that need to be replaced:
http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3378/13025992655_6b2b9f93a8_b.jpg

Step 5:
Check and clean the oil inlet and outlet orifices in crankcase for dirt and contaminants.

Step 6:
Replace the o-rings with new ones on the filter cover.

Step 7:
Install the new filter:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7416/13025991485_8b5ce6fe45_b.jpg

Step 8:
After cleaning the filter cover and installing new o-rings, install the filter cover.

Step 9:
Using new sealing washers and o-rings, install both engine and gearbox drain plugs.
(From the Operator's Guide - Torque engine drain plugs 25 N•m to 30N•m. Torque gearbox drain plug 18 N•m to 20N•m)

Step 10:
For SE6 Model - Pour 5.3 L of the recommended oil into the engine.
For SM6 Model - Pour 4.9 L of the recommended oil into the engine.

Step 11:
Start engine and let idle for two minutes. Check for leaks at the Engine oil filter, as well as the engine and gearbox drain plugs.

Step 12:
Once the oil temperature reaches 176°F/80°C, stop the engine, check the oil level, then add missing quantity of oil.

Step 13:
Install all removed body panels.
You can get a 36mm socket at Northern Tools for $14. With the amount of oil the 1330 holds, I am going to start out with an oil pig and vacuum out the majority of oil before removing the plugs. I did this with my Harley to get most of the oil out of the tank. It really cut down on possible oil messes.

[Cruzr Joe]

Was there supposed to be a link added to this comment?


No, i just used post # 1 and printed it out.


Cruzr Joe

[srsjerry187]

Those are some deep details and useful gonna bookmark this page

[wd8ajj]

Local dealer has the total oil change kit with all from BRP for 69.00. Easier than hunting for aftermarket parts and all in 1 box, oil,filters rings ect.

[Highwayman2013]

Local dealer has the total oil change kit with all from BRP for 69.00. Easier than hunting for aftermarket parts and all in 1 box, oil,filters rings ect.
You're taking all the fun out of it.:rolleyes:

[tomswat]

I agree with the well done presentation.. Very helpful.
After doing some more recent research, I did find an online retailer that has all the needed parts for the oil change at a better price..
In fact they have most any OEM parts you would need..
http://www.powersportswarehouse.com

Here is a list of the parts again. And pricing.
just plug in the part# in the websites part search window to locate them,, very easy.
The French description on the 2 parts below are for the sealing washers..

420956743 - Can-Am - Oil Filter @$11.99ea.

420430623 - Can-Am - Anneau Étanche @$1.47ea.

420950812 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

420250640 - Can-Am - Rondelle En Cuivre @$1.47ea.

420650927 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

420850482 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$4.49ea.

420250460 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$2.99ea.

420430115 - Can-Am - O-Ring @$2.99ea.

I typically use AMSOIL in all my rides... and use Motorcycle 10W40. full synthetic for the Spyder....

[DSSpyder]

How about a Magnetic Drain Plug (M14 x 1.5) from BigBikeParts # 5-301? ($5.95/ea)

[marklawrence18]

Oil and transmission filter alternative part numbers for all spyders now listed on our oil filter cross reference:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html

Oil filters, about $8 on ebay, o-ring kits about $5 on ebay, transmission filters about $5 on ebay, oil about $20 for 5 quarts Delo 400 5w-40 full synthetic at Walmart, total cost of oil change about $33-$38.

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

For the 2017 F3-S, use a 6mm hex key on the transmission plug. Also before loosening the two drain plugs, check to make sure the bits fit snugly into the heads of the plugs. NO ROCKING, NO SLOP. Your bits should be high-quality pieces, not Chinese-made cheapos because they are often sloppy and brittle. Use a long-enough ratchet to give good torque. And remember counter-clockwise when looking at the plug loosens it. Ok, the socket's in the plug head and your hand is on the ratchet, so give the ratchet a good swift and sharp tug. Don't overdo it, just make it QUICK!. This will break the plugs loose without giving them time to think about stripping! And, I recommend replacing those plugs with Gold Plugs..MP01, one for the engine, one for the tranny (they're both the same number, you have to specify when ordering)..

Thanks, and happy Ryding.

[JKMSPYDER]

There are two different sizes of Gold Plug foe the 1330 engine. The engine plug is MP-18 and the transmission plug is MP-01.

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!

[TerryTheSpyderRyder]

After nearly stripping the transmission drain plug, I bought a new one. Close, and I mean close, examination showed it to be a 6mm allen. That means one drain is a T45 and the other is a 6mm. Now the replacement is the 6mm. There's no way of telling what the original drain was, I buggered it really bad getting it off. The reason for the differing types of tool is perhaps european logic.

Haven't figured out how to show it, but I've got a '15 RT_S SE6.

replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.

[jcthorne]

One thing, on the F3-S Spyder anyway, remove the oil filter together with the inner bolt. Don't try to remove the bolt and then the cover-it won't come out. Take it all out together, cover, bolt and filter as one piece. Give them a chance to finish draining, and therefore leaving less of a mess, by removing them slowly. Put the new filter, cover and bolt back in together too. It's a lot easier. Also, once you've removed the T-45 and T-40 drain plugs, replace them with Gold Plugs that have a hex head (as God intended bolts to be!). They're also magnetic and are pretty inexpensive and can be installed/removed with a good old fashioned 17mm socket. Not to mention you will also have two magnetic drain plugs for added protection!

So much wrong with this statement.

There is no bolts on the F3 oil filter.
There are no drain plugs that use a T40 Torx
Lastly, big troubles with the Gold plug on the engine side. Poor design with a thin wall where the hole for the magnet is far too close to the o-ring groove. Plug snaps off inside the engine on removal. Have seen two of them do this and one was a very expensive engine tear down to fix. We will not install them. Use the RIGHT tools for removal and there is no trouble with the OEM plugs.

[jcthorne]

replace both of those "T" drain plugs with Gold Plugs, MP-18 and MP-01.. They have direct replacements for both and use hex heads-17mm, easy to get and use. No more stripped or buggered drain plugs and also the Gold Plugs are both magnetic.

Nope, no stripped head, just a snapped off thread end stuck up inside your engine. Yea great trade off. Just use the right tools on the oem plugs.

[RudyB]

Your totally overthinking it

[rich5006]

thanks for the post