FYI-Shell Rotella synthetic

[Lamonster]

I changed my oil before my Sturgis/San Diego trip and while I was in Sturgis I started having trouble with my clutch slipping and on the way there I got some of the worst gas mileage ever towing my trailer.:sour: I would normally get 30 to 32 mpg and on the way there I got 25 to 26 mpg.

At first I thought it might have been the new windshield or maybe the trailer was loaded heavier than normal but Evan thought that it may have been the oil I changed to (Shell Rotella synthetic). I've used Rotella before with good results but never the synthetic blend. It was slipping so bad that I thought I was going to have to change my clutch right there in Sturgis.

I decided to change my oil there and the only thing I could find was the Mobil One V-Twin oil and after the change the Spyder was much better. I can't ride it as hard as I would like but it's not slipping unless I really get on it hard on a hill or on-ramp. A little throttle control and all is well. I am going to change out my clutch when I get home and for sure I won't be using Shell Rotella synthetic in my Spyder again.

You may get away with this oil on a Spyder that's not pulling a trailer but on mine it's no good.:spyder:

[beerman]

Check the api code on your oil, brp is very specific about what you can use and if the api is not one they approve then the clutch will slip. Good luck

[BAZMAN]

SORRY TO HERE ABOUT THE OIL AND THE CLUTCH. MAYBE YOU CAN TALK TO A MECANIC TO SEE IF YOU USE THE PROPER OIL THE PROBLEM MIGHT GO AWAY. AFTER I READ ON DIFFERENT THREADS ABOUT THE ROTELLA OIL I WAS IN WALLY WORLD, FOUND THE OIL AND READ THE BACK OF THE CONTAINER, AND NO WHERE COULD I FIND ANYTHING ABOUT BEING OK TO USE IN MOTORCYCLES. THAT WAS ENOUGH FOR ME. THATS WHY I AM GOING TO AMSOIL [MOTORCYCLE] PRODUCTS. I KNOW MOTORCYCLE MECHANICS THAT USE IT IN ALL THE BIKES THEY WORK AND HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM. THEY WERE THE 1ST COMPANY TO MAKE SYNTHETICS IN THE EARLY 70S. SORRY ABOUT YOUR SPYDER.

[Buelldog]

I changed my oil before my Sturgis/San Diego trip and while I was in Sturgis I started having trouble with my clutch slipping and on the way there I got some of the worst gas mileage ever towing my trailer.:sour: I would normally get 30 to 32 mpg and on the way there I got 25 to 26 mpg.

At first I thought it might have been the new windshield or maybe the trailer was loaded heavier than normal but Evan thought that it may have been the oil I changed to (Shell Rotella synthetic). I've used Rotella before with good results but never the synthetic blend. It was slipping so bad that I thought I was going to have to change my clutch right there in Sturgis.

I decided to change my oil there and the only thing I could find was the Mobil One V-Twin oil and after the change the Spyder was much better. I can't ride it as hard as I would like but it's not slipping unless I really get on it hard on a hill or on-ramp. A little throttle control and all is well. I am going to change out my clutch when I get home and for sure I won't be using Shell Rotella synthetic in my Spyder again.

You may get away with this oil on a Spyder that's not pulling a trailer but on mine it's no good.:spyder:

As a former riding instructor/Bikes and Manual shift ATV'S I have and still do lots of slow speed manuevers riding in the friction zone and feathering the rear brake....this type of riding is associated with Motor Officer riding technique and puts a real Heat zone on early clutch wear!!If you get a chance go to a Police Rodeo and watch and hear the engines work.I have been using Amsoil 20 50 and Amsoil 10 40 in my bikes for years.......even though I ride in the friction zone lots because of frequent demos and style.....Zero clutch problems.......Zero clutch slippage .....I have used Amsoil under the hardest clutch wear.....It does what it says!!It is in my PE 2618 ....doing the job!!

[bjt]

Our dealer uses Spectro Blue for the Spyder oil change and I used it the first time I changed my own oil. After I did some research on it, I found it was conventional oil, not synthetic. For the next oil change, I used Spectro Gold synthetic. The Spyder has been running just fine with either Spectro product but for the $1 price difference per liter between the Spectro Gold ($9) and Amsoil ($10), I'll just use the Amsoil for all future changes. I have not read anything but good things about Amsoil and I plan on keeping the Spyder and using it a lot for many more (hopefully troublefree) years.

[Rando]

Am I missing something here? What is wrong with BRP oil, besides the price?

[AMTJIM]

Good to know...used Rottela in my SV...highly recommended for that machine...a definite no-no for this one...thanx for the info

[Buelldog]

Our dealer uses Spectro Blue for the Spyder oil change and I used it the first time I changed my own oil. After I did some research on it, I found it was conventional oil, not synthetic. For the next oil change, I used Spectro Gold synthetic. The Spyder has been running just fine with either Spectro product but for the $1 price difference per liter between the Spectro Gold ($9) and Amsoil ($10), I'll just use the Amsoil for all future changes. I have not read anything but good things about Amsoil and I plan on keeping the Spyder and using it a lot for many more (hopefully troublefree) years.


Amsoil has a Preferred Customer price program.....basically you are buying at wholesale.......costs an up-front $10 for 6 months or $20 for a year membership ......this is how I buy mine......I do have a Amsoil jobber near by so he saves me some shipping costs.Have not bought any lately as I stocked up in the early spring but back then my per Qt. cost was about $7.75!You might want to check it out .....info on their website....Amsoil.com

[bjt]

Am I missing something here? What is wrong with BRP oil, besides the price?


Its convenience for me. I will probably order the filters, o-ring and washers from Magic Man or one of the other guys on this site who sell Spyder products and the local bike shop, which is on my 'usual travels' route, sells Amsoil, not BRP oil. I have to go probably another 5 - 10 miles out of my way to get to the local BRP dealer.

[sleepman]

Check the api code on your oil, brp is very specific about what you can use and if the api is not one they approve then the clutch will slip. Good luck

While Rotella meets some of the API's for the Spyder, one API which is SM is specifically mentioned in the Spyder's manual as one that could cause the clutch to slip.

[sabunim5]

Rotella in the blue bottle meets the specs for the Spyder. The reformulation in the WHITE bottle is not to be used in the Spyder.

[sleepman]

My impression was that since one of the API's that the blue bottle meets is SM that it wouldn't meet approval for use in the Spyder.

[cdragut]

Rotella in the blue bottle meets the specs for the Spyder. The reformulation in the WHITE bottle is not to be used of the Spyder.

hi, i am using rotella in all my bikes... have you actually used it for the spyder, with no problems?
thanks,

[matusky]

Rotella in the blue bottle meets the specs for the Spyder. The reformulation in the WHITE bottle is not to be used of the Spyder.
Lamonster..... is this the one you used?

I have 8,100 miles on mine with no noticeable issues and I've had the shell rotella synthetic in it since the 600 mile service..... never noticed this post till today so now I'm a little concerned.

:banghead:

[Spyderman62]

Thanks all for the info - good stuff this website!

[Spydyr]

Who makes BRP's oil? I have almost 3,000 miles of extemeley aggressive riding(almost ready for new tires) on the Shell Rotella synthetic in the blue bottle, with no problems so far. I haven't been pulling a trailer though! I know towing can be harder on a drive train than agressive riding and I've seen the video of Lamonster doing both at the same time.:2thumbs:

[AMTJIM]

Hmmm...I used Blue in the SV...never tried it in the Spyder based on Lamonsters experience.

[tatt2r]

i'm lazy i bring mine to dealer....

[Roaddog2]

While mine is under warranty I'm sticking with BRP .But have been using spectro for years on other bikes and never had any oil problems :spyder:

[effgjamis]

dPlease corect me if I am off my rocker.

It is my understanding that Synthetic comes in two formulas.
1. Blend .... which is mix of Synthetic and reg Oil.
2. Pure Synthetic... all synthetic.

The spec's I have read for the spyder only speak of Synthetic and no mention of blend.

I am ready now for the chop shop....

[nickcaro]

Well..... Here comes the twist in the road, hang on as this can turn in to a nice long thread.

I have been using Rotella exclusively since 600 miles. I change the oil myself and do it every 3k miles. I have over 25k miles on the Spyder and have had zero issues with my clutch. Part of my commute is NYC traffic, so yes I do spend some time in the friction zone.

As far as the white vs blue debate, here is a pic of the one I use and I buy it at WalMart.


http://www.truckinginfo.com/images/news/Shell-RotellaSynthetic5W40.jpg

[NancysToy]

dPlease corect me if I am off my rocker.

It is my understanding that Synthetic comes in two formulas.
1. Blend .... which is mix of Synthetic and reg Oil.
2. Pure Synthetic... all synthetic.

The spec's I have read for the spyder only speak of Synthetic and no mention of blend.

I am ready now for the chop shop....
You are correct.


Well..... Here comes the twist in the road, hang on as this can turn in to a nice long thread.

I have been using Rotella exclusively since 600 miles. I change the oil myself and do it every 3k miles. I have over 25k miles on the Spyder and have had zero issues with my clutch. Part of my commute is NYC traffic, so yes I do spend some time in the friction zone.

As far as the white vs blue debate, here is a pic of the one I use and I buy it at WalMart.


http://www.truckinginfo.com/images/news/Shell-RotellaSynthetic5W40.jpg
Can't try this myself, as our Wally Worlds around here only seem to have the white bottled variety (with blue label).
-Scotty

[Ryno]

I run the 5-40 full synthetic in my VW turbo diesel, It is the only (besides AMSoil) that is recommended and the critical element is the lubrication of the turbocharger. (lots of heat and wear there.. ) Makes me nervous to think it could cause issues in the spydee...

[Lamonster]

I just read my post again and I guess it's time for a update.

25K on this clutch and no slippage at all. I can roll on it as hard as I like with the trailer. Right now I'm running Lucas motorcycle oil.

As bad as my clutch was on my trip I seemed to have saved it by not grazing it up too bad and changing the oil a few times since then.

If Rotella is working good for you then by all means keep using it. I won't be on my Spyder because I ride a little harder than most with a much heavier load than most. I think that oil puts be just over the edge. :sour:

[redbarber]

I'm a total newbie here. Bought my wife a Spyder SE last Saturday, and I'm just reading everything I can find. You have a great forum here, I have learned much.
Rotella T Synthetic. I've been running it fine in my Honda Valkyrie for years. I thought I could use it forever, but I CAN'T. Since my last gallon was purchased last fall, they have changed the formula. Now my trusty WalMart gallon of Rotella T is API SM. My last bottle was SL. From what I read here and on the other sites, SM is not acceptable for the Spyder. So long, Rotella T, So long, extra money. Hello Amsoil. (unless I can find some old stock out there, then I'm buying it up.)

Look forward to getting to know you all. I've seen Lamonster before, on another forum. Don't know which one. (Valk, Shadow, Silverwing are possibilities.)

[bjt]

Welcome to SpyderLovers redbarber and congrats to your wife on the Spyder purchase. Good luck on your oil search.

[Lamonster]

Look forward to getting to know you all. I've seen Lamonster before, on another forum. Don't know which one. (Valk, Shadow, Silverwing are possibilities.)

welcome
Ever heard of the VRCC? I'm member #0001 :doorag:

If not you may have heard of the SuperCharger I devolped with MagnaCharger for the Valk, or maybe the Lamonster Trigger Wheel or Lamonster risers. :dontknow:

Anyway, like the Valk the Spyder is a great ride and I'm sure you're going to love it. :thumbup:

By the way I have a case of Amsoil showing up today. :spyder2:

http://www.bigbikeriders.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=6&pictureid=22

[ataDude]

I'm a total newbie here. ... I've been running it fine in my Honda Valkyrie for years. I thought I could use it forever, but I CAN'T. ...

welcome

Mine:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=427

.

[trikester]

I'm a total newbie here. Bought my wife a Spyder SE last Saturday, and I'm just reading everything I can find.

welcome

[retread]

welcome we got more info than BRP!

john

[Dudley]

This has nothing to do with Rotella, but with oil. After reading some and talking some I changed my oil Wednesday and put in Royal Purple Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, 10W40. It is not SM rated, and the 10W40 is better for our desert climate and 3-digit ambient temperatures for months on end. Rode it for the first time today, 150 miles, and noticed a very positive shifting improvement on the SE5. When downshifting automatically it was smoother than it's ever been, and I have had the "fix" done on it. The auto shift from 2nd to 1st was so smooth I had to check to be sure it had shifted. We had to do several stops (red lights) around town and the Spyder never tried to crawl at the stops as it's had a tendency to do. My wife even noticed the difference and commented on it.

[Trickie Dick]

Just picked up my :spyder2: from the dealer. Got the first 600 mile service. I noticed on the invoice that they used Drum Oil for the oil change- 10W40. I asked the service manager about this and he said that is what they used on all their BRP products-they sell sea doos and ATVs. Said they checked BRP about the spyder and was told it was fine to use. I said I never heard of that and I thought the manual was very specific on the oil being used. Asked about the warranty and he said no problem as far as being covered by warranty using this oil

Needless to say, I am a little nervous:yikes::yikes:

[Dudley]

Just picked up my :spyder2: from the dealer. Got the first 600 mile service. I noticed on the invoice that they used Drum Oil for the oil change- 10W40. I asked the service manager about this and he said that is what they used on all their BRP products-they sell sea doos and ATVs. Said they checked BRP about the spyder and was told it was fine to use. I said I never heard of that and I thought the manual was very specific on the oil being used. Asked about the warranty and he said no problem as far as being covered by warranty using this oil

Needless to say, I am a little nervous:yikes::yikes:

Makes you wonder, don't it?

[bjt]

Just picked up my :spyder2: from the dealer. Got the first 600 mile service. I noticed on the invoice that they used Drum Oil for the oil change- 10W40. I asked the service manager about this and he said that is what they used on all their BRP products-they sell sea doos and ATVs. Said they checked BRP about the spyder and was told it was fine to use. I said I never heard of that and I thought the manual was very specific on the oil being used. Asked about the warranty and he said no problem as far as being covered by warranty using this oil

Needless to say, I am a little nervous:yikes::yikes:


Basically the same process at our dealer. They use Spectro Blue (55 gallon drum) in most of their oil changes unless the customer requests something else. I know that they are filling Spyders with 10W40 also as Spectro doesn't make a 5W30. They are knocking a few bucks off the invoice too as Spectro Blue is cheaper than BRP oil. dltang has over 13,000 miles on her Spyder now with all the oil changes with 10W40 and has had no engine / tranny issues. I've changed my own oil with either Amsoil or Spectro Gold oil every time (11,600 miles) and I've used either brand's 10W40 (except for last winter's oil change with Amsoil 0W40). I also have had no engine / tranny issues so far.

[NancysToy]

I think an owner is much safer if it is the dealer instead of the owner that substitutes non-spec oil. The dealer would be the one submitting any warranty claim, anyway, so they would hardly "tattle" on themselves to BRP. It would leave them open to a lawsuit from the disgruntled owner, anyway. As to the owner doing it themselves, it is riskier. I certainly wouldn't anticipate a blown engine, which a dealer might balk at replacing if you didn't use the right oil, but it is still a possibility that owners must be aware of. Once you know, assess the risk, and make your own choice. I personally think 10W-40 is a better choice of viscosities, BTW, especially in a slippery synthetic.
-Scotty

[retread]

Indy Cycle, right?

john

[Trickie Dick]

Indy Cycle, right?

john

Yes. Right now I don't have the greatest confidence in them. Nice people, but not sure they are keeping up with the spyder. Didn't know anything about the accessories coming or the brake noise issues. Things like that just don't inspire alot of confidence. Course they don't spend time everyday on the forums like we do.

Have you had dealings with them? Buy your spyder there?

[teacherbob]

Two words. Royal Purple
This is the sh**. I believe in it so much I became a dealer .
I'll have it up on my website pretty soon.

Bob
PowerSports4Less

[retread]

Yes. Right now I don't have the greatest confidence in them. Nice people, but not sure they are keeping up with the spyder. Didn't know anything about the accessories coming or the brake noise issues. Things like that just don't inspire alot of confidence. Course they don't spend time everyday on the forums like we do.

Have you had dealings with them? Buy your spyder there?
Bought my Spyder in MI, no dealers in IN then, Indy did my 600 mile change, seemed like decent people. For the 3000 mile, they wanted over $300.00, told me about a charge for having to hook to a computer, and some other things, I change my own now, get my parts and heavy service from Greenfield. There's more, but why bother, I won't go there anymore.

john

[jeuchler]

I think an owner is much safer if it is the dealer instead of the owner that substitutes non-spec oil. The dealer would be the one submitting any warranty claim, anyway, so they would hardly "tattle" on themselves to BRP. It would leave them open to a lawsuit from the disgruntled owner, anyway. As to the owner doing it themselves, it is riskier. I certainly wouldn't anticipate a blown engine, which a dealer might balk at replacing if you didn't use the right oil, but it is still a possibility that owners must be aware of. Once you know, assess the risk, and make your own choice. I personally think 10W-40 is a better choice of viscosities, BTW, especially in a slippery synthetic.
-Scotty

Scotty

It's difficult to argue with personal anecdotes from folks who say "I used brand x oil, now my Spyder is all kerflooey" but on page 563 of the shop manual, it lists

"5W40 BRP synthetic oil or equivalent motorcycle oil"

so what should our concern be about non-spec oil?

I don't want this to turn into the great Gas Mileage War posts of the summer of '07, but I'm slow in following what's the issue, unless it's that the shop manual itself is too vague...?

Or, should we all be sending a 3000 mile and a 6000 mile sample into Blackstone for an oil analysis (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/motorcycle.html)?? Then at least we'd have data...???

[Firefly]

Two words. Royal Purple
This is the sh**. I believe in it so much I became a dealer .
I'll have it up on my website pretty soon.

Bob
PowerSports4Less

Tell them to make a 5w40 and I'll buy it tomorrow!

[teacherbob]

They make 10W40. Lamont runs 10W40 synthetic in his Spyder. That's good enough for me.

[NancysToy]

Scotty

It's difficult to argue with personal anecdotes from folks who say "I used brand x oil, now my Spyder is all kerflooey" but on page 563 of the shop manual, it lists

"5W40 BRP synthetic oil or equivalent motorcycle oil"

so what should our concern be about non-spec oil?

I don't want this to turn into the great Gas Mileage War posts of the summer of '07, but I'm slow in following what's the issue, unless it's that the shop manual itself is too vague...?

Or, should we all be sending a 3000 mile and a 6000 mile sample into Blackstone for an oil analysis (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/motorcycle.html)?? Then at least we'd have data...???
As far as BRP is concerned, that is the spec they accept. A 10W-40 or an oil that doesn't specify "for motorcycle use" technically does not meet the spec. It seems silly. Almost all vehicles actually give a table with a range of acceptable viscosities. BRP does not, nor do they specify different viscosities for different temperatures. Surely what is best for riding in Canada in the chilly Spring is not the same as what is best for riding in Texas in August. Oil analysis would do no good, since the BRP spec is for very frequent changes, not oil condition. Bottom line is that we use "5W-40 BRP synthetic oil or equivalent motorcycle oil", or we take a risk. That risk would be there for any other viscosity, any non-synthetic or synthetic blend or any mineral oil, or even an oil not specifically labeled as acceptable for motorcycles. Until BRP relaxes this standard in writing, we all have to be aware that if we have engine failures, we might be forced to prove the oil did not cause the problem if BRP chose not to warranty the failure based on our choice of a non-spec oil. Let's hope it is never an issue for anybody, but owners should be aware of the possibility...and the possible consequences. From that point on, like crossing a busy street, the choice is ours.
-Scotty

[jeuchler]

... like crossing a busy street, the choice is ours.
-Scotty

Thanks, Professor! :thumbup:

[Dudley]

Tell them to make a 5w40 and I'll buy it tomorrow!

I called the Royal Purple people and talked to a technician about the oil. We chatted well over 15 minutes as he answered my questions about oil, viscosities, etc. He was very informative and explained things to me in as simple a language as he could. When I got off the phone, I ordered the 10W40 Motorcycle Oil from the nearest dealer (no freight charge, under $14/qt). Ordered it on Friday, picked it up Monday, changed it Wednesday. He also said that their 5W40 Automotive oil would not damage the clutch because they do not use (forgot the term he used) that some other oils use to reduce friction. I remember the days before "motorcycle oil", I used whatever I could get, and never slipped the clutch. But I know that some oils will cause slippage. I just haven't used the wrong one, I guess. I will continue to monitor any differences I can see in our Spyder and post same. Again, what does one do??? The choice is yours.

[Firefly]

I called the Royal Purple people and talked to a technician about the oil. We chatted well over 15 minutes as he answered my questions about oil, viscosities, etc. He was very informative and explained things to me in as simple a language as he could. When I got off the phone, I ordered the 10W40 Motorcycle Oil from the nearest dealer (no freight charge, under $14/qt). Ordered it on Friday, picked it up Monday, changed it Wednesday. He also said that their 5W40 Automotive oil would not damage the clutch because they do not use (forgot the term he used) that some other oils use to reduce friction. I remember the days before "motorcycle oil", I used whatever I could get, and never slipped the clutch. But I know that some oils will cause slippage. I just haven't used the wrong one, I guess. I will continue to monitor any differences I can see in our Spyder and post same. Again, what does one do??? The choice is yours.

I believe the term you're looking for is 'Modifiers'.

I'm still gonna stick with 5w40 BRP oil for now. Maybe Royal will come out with a 5w40 motorcycle oil sometime?

Is there really a difference between RP auto and MC oils then?

I checked a bottle of Rotella T (blue) at Advanced Auto today and it clearly says SM rated on the back - so it does NOT meet Spyder requirements. Use at own risk.

Maybe SM stands for Slippery Modifiers - :D

[Dudley]

I believe the term you're looking for is 'Modifiers'.

I'm still gonna stick with 5w40 BRP oil for now. Maybe Royal will come out with a 5w40 motorcycle oil sometime?

Is there really a difference between RP auto and MC oils then?

I checked a bottle of Rotella T (blue) at Advanced Auto today and it clearly says SM rated on the back - so it does NOT meet Spyder requirements. Use at own risk.

Maybe SM stands for Slippery Modifiers - :D


Their toll free number...888-382-6300. Ask them anything you want.

[swrafey2000]

The oil debate continues.BRP has cahnged their oil for the spyder.Went to my local dealer to get the BRP synthetic and was handed the new synthetic blend.The full synthetic and the blend now have the same product number.Like the knee pads,and brake pads they have changed the product but kept the same product code.Dealer said BRP is phasing out the full synthetic.

[NancysToy]

The oil debate continues.BRP has cahnged their oil for the spyder.Went to my local dealer to get the BRP synthetic and was handed the new synthetic blend.The full synthetic and the blend now have the same product number.Like the knee pads,and brake pads they have changed the product but kept the same product code.Dealer said BRP is phasing out the full synthetic.
Yeah, that's what some dealers have said, and the same part number just about cinches the rumor. Unfortunately, BRP still specifies a full synthetic. They need to come out with a service bulletin saying what is appropriate and what is not. Their own darned oil now fails to meet their spec. That opens up any number of ugly scenarios! This whole business is totally unacceptable!!!
-Scotty

[swrafey2000]

:agree:

[Spyderjuice]

Yeah, that's what some dealers have said, and the same part number just about cinches the rumor. Unfortunately, BRP still specifies a full synthetic. They need to come out with a service bulletin saying what is appropriate and what is not. Their own darned oil now fails to meet their spec. That opens up any number of ugly scenarios! This whole business is totally unacceptable!!!
-Scotty

I am now wondering if the oil can have an effect on the SE5 shifting. The clutch is a centifical operation depending on the RPM's of the motor. If the oil is too thick, etc. would that have an effect on how that clutch will operate. I have (dealer installed) Amsoil 10-40 and not the 5-40 recommended. Do you think that would make the clutch sluggish?

Anyone, Scotty, Lamonster... :chat:

Juice

[Lamonster]

I am now wondering if the oil can have an effect on the SE5 shifting. The clutch is a centifical operation depending on the RPM's of the motor. If the oil is too thick, etc. would that have an effect on how that clutch will operate. I have (dealer installed) Amsoil 10-40 and not the 5-40 recommended. Do you think that would make the clutch sluggish?

Anyone, Scotty, Lamonster... :chat:

Juice

It might have a slight effect when it's cold but I wouldn't think that the difference between 5-40 and 10-40 is enough to matter.

[krb1945]

You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.

I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.

You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.

I break-in all my machines with the rotella 5/40 in the blue bottle. I have never had one clutch slip because this oil has the correct rating.

Break-in oil change schedule for me is... and before anyone says "over kill" on oil/filters changes... remember all those tiny glittering particles you can see in the sunlight are metal machining particles.

I change oil and filter after first 50 to 60 miles, Then again at 800 miles then the next change is at 1800 to 2000 miles. After that I go to the regular schedule for the leading synthetic oil. Also if there is a differential as with the GL series of road cruisers. That gets changed at the 800 mile oil change and again at 1800 to 2000. This is the way that most racers break them in... "knock on wood" I've never had an engine, clutch or tranny problem.

Last but not least... I never ever let a dealer touch my oil and filter. Some do what they say but there are many that do not and you really don't know what you are getting unless you do it yourself. Don't believe me? Try using a felt tip marker and you may find I'm right and if you are lucky enough to get a good dealer... well then... I'll be wrong. There is always an exception to every rule.

[jeuchler]

...The full synthetic and the blend now have the same product number.Like the knee pads,and brake pads they have changed the product but kept the same product code....


XP-S 4-Stroke Synthetic Blend Oil - Summer grade
Sku # 293600121 1 Quart / 946 ml

XP-S 4-Stroke Synthetic - Winter grade
Sku # 293600112 1 Quart / 946 ml


:dontknow::hun:

[ima rider]

[quote=krb1945;92451]You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.

I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.

You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.

Make sure you look closely at the blue bottle Rotella oil. They have changed the formula. It now has an SM rating. I looked at all the bottles at my local Walmart and they were all the new formula. I did find (and bought) the last 3 gallons at Auto Zone. I am sure when they reorder it will be with the new formula so look closely and buy up all the older gallons you can find!

[krb1945]

Be sure when you change your oil to "NEVER" use any oil that says "Energy Conservation" on the bottle. This type of oil has friction modifiers in it and it will definitely make a wet clutch slip.

Only use oil that is designed for wet clutches and motorcycles.

Now I'll go back to sleep...

[BLACK WIDOW]

[quote=krb1945;92451]You can not use any oil that is rated SM or ILSAC GF-4 in any wet clutch engine system.

I believe if you read the back of the Shell Rotella in the blue 1 gal bottle you will find it is not in the above catagory.

You must use an oil which is rated SL, SJ, SH or SG for wet clutches.

Make sure you look closely at the blue bottle Rotella oil. They have changed the formula. It now has an SM rating. I looked at all the bottles at my local Walmart and they were all the new formula. I did find (and bought) the last 3 gallons at Auto Zone. I am sure when they reorder it will be with the new formula so look closely and buy up all the older gallons you can find!

I have some motorcycle buddies that use Rotella oil, and I know of no real issues they are having; However, that being said, Rotella T is Truck oil and it is not certified for motorcycle use. The ONLY certification for motorcycles that use a common sump for the clutch, tranny, and engine is: JASCO MA. I will not put a drop of anything in my motorcycles unless it is certified "JASCO MA."

[capt.jim]

there are two different blue bottles of Rotella T 5-40 synthetic, one that i found in walmart is sm and GF4 rated, the one i got in Pepboys is rated CI/4plus-SL and says ADVANCED SOOT CONTROL in 1/4" letters above rotella on the front of the bottle, it shifts the same as the amsoil to me:dontknow: