Charger pigtail

[dshogman]

The pigtail for my charger was set up to be used when the frunk is opened and then closed upon the wire. The other day I took that little leftside wiring cover off and saw daylight down below so rerouted the pigtail through the opening. It now is hanging alongside the left spring/shock. I cable tied it to the spring. Now it's accessible without opening the frunk. Anyone see any problems with this??
Thanks.

[Cruzr Joe]

The pigtail for my charger was set up to be used when the frunk is opened and then closed upon the wire. The other day I took that little leftside wiring cover off and saw daylight down below so rerouted the pigtail through the opening. It now is hanging alongside the left spring/shock. I cable tied it to the spring. Now it's accessible without opening the frunk. Anyone see any problems with this??
Thanks.


Nope, that is exactly what i did on my 2013 and it worked great.

cruzr joe

[spyderbirds]

The pigtail for my charger was set up to be used when the frunk is opened and then closed upon the wire. The other day I took that little leftside wiring cover off and saw daylight down below so rerouted the pigtail through the opening. It now is hanging alongside the left spring/shock. I cable tied it to the spring. Now it's accessible without opening the frunk. Anyone see any problems with this??
Thanks.

I agree that ought to work just fine.

[Chupaca]

finding other routes is a good idea. It does save time and closing down on the cables is not all that good. But here's the thing about attatching the cable to the spring on the shock..though you may never compress it enough to damage the cable it is a constant moving part. In time your zip may wear through the cable and if grounded could cause you problems. I would attach it to the outside of the frunk..jmo :dontknow:

[Bob Denman]

Why not just move the fuse from position 6, to 7, and use the plug in the top trunk?
:2thumbs:

[AlEverett]

Why not just move the fuse from position 6, to 7, and use the plug in the top trunk?
:2thumbs:
I wrote on another thread about my problem with that. My 2013 RT-S doesn't have any wiring going to fuse #6 and already had fuse in #7. Even with this arrangement the 12V outlet in the rear trunk is only hot with ignition turned on. What gives?

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I wrote on another thread about my problem with that. My 2013 RT-S doesn't have any wiring going to fuse #6 and already had fuse in #7. Even with this arrangement the 12V outlet in the rear trunk is only hot with ignition turned on. What gives?

You are absolutely sure the fuse is in F7 and not F6, right? If so something is miswired somewhere, like maybe the wire to the accessory plug is in the wrong pole of the harness connector at the fuse box. What happens if you put the fuse into 6? F6 feeds to relay R6 which then goes to the power plugs. F7 goes directly to the power plugs, so if the fuse is in 7 but there is not direct battery voltage at the power plug then the wiring is mucked up. The dealer should fix that as a warranty item. I can post that part of the wiring diagram if you need me to.

How do you know there is no wiring going to #6? Both 6 & 7 are fed from the same power bus and 6 feeds directly to R6. Those are wire paths you can't see with just the fuse box cover removed. You would have to disassemble the fuse box to see those. Is that what you or the service tech did? Triple check to make sure you are looking at the correct fuse positions. There are 8 fuse positions numbered left to right. F8 is not used. The way the fuse box is arranged there is no way you can get power only with ignition key on unless there is a fuse in #6. Both 6 and 7 get power directly from the battery. R6 is activated by ignition power. At least that is what the wiring diagram for the 2013 RT shows.

[NancysToy]

You are absolutely sure the fuse is in F7 and not F6, right? If so something is miswired somewhere, like maybe the wire to the accessory plug is in the wrong pole of the harness connector at the fuse box. What happens if you put the fuse into 6? F6 feeds to relay R6 which then goes to the power plugs. F7 goes directly to the power plugs, so if the fuse is in 7 but there is not direct battery voltage at the power plug then the wiring is mucked up. The dealer should fix that as a warranty item. I can post that part of the wiring diagram if you need me to.

How do you know there is no wiring going to #6? Both 6 & 7 are fed from the same power bus and 6 feeds directly to R6. Those are wire paths you can't see with just the fuse box cover removed. You would have to disassemble the fuse box to see those. Is that what you or the service tech did? Triple check to make sure you are looking at the correct fuse positions. There are 8 fuse positions numbered left to right. F8 is not used. The way the fuse box is arranged there is no way you can get power only with ignition key on unless there is a fuse in #6. Both 6 and 7 get power directly from the battery. R6 is activated by ignition power. At least that is what the wiring diagram for the 2013 RT shows.
:agree: I might also add that merely turning the ignition key on is not sufficient. The load-shedding relay only pulls in when the engine is running.