hotglue
01-30-2014, 07:26 PM
Before FB took of on her ill fated trip for the 'Girls' Weekend' in Carlsbad NM.... I changed her rear tire. Got the wheel off, and as usual... put my fingers in the bearings to turn them and check their condition....
NEITHER BEARING WOULD TURN!!!!!!! This is the 1st time the rear wheel has been removed on the bike..
Unbolted the coned flange (opposite the belt drive side) and removed the cone part of the wheel.... The bearings turned easy no catch points ... just like they should....
Put the wheel back together and torqued it per the book.... I could not turn the bearings AT ALL....
Loosened the torque on the wheel parts.. and the bearings turned fine....
Did a close inspection of the rear axel and saw some indications that the inner race of the bearings had spun on the axel...NOT GOOD..
Took the wheel apart and took out the spacer pipe that goes between the inner bearing races... filed it down about .010 in. put the wheel back together, and torqued to spec... bearings turned a little, but not free.
Took the wheel apart again... took another .005 off the spacer. Put it all back together.... torque to spec.. bearing turning pretty free... put the bike back together....
The shuttering and shaking the bike was having when 1st taking off is gone.....
Either the pipe spacer was too long, or the bearing cups in the wheels were cut too deep... and putting WAY too much load on the bearings when the wheel parts are torqued ... enough to keep them from turning...
Better now...
If this is an issue on your bike.. it is something your dealer should check.. the amount I took off worked for me, but I would not assume that BRP's tolerance at manufacture is tight enough to use these numbers with out several checks at different measurements. When you pull your rear wheel... check you bearings for smooth operation!!!!
NEITHER BEARING WOULD TURN!!!!!!! This is the 1st time the rear wheel has been removed on the bike..
Unbolted the coned flange (opposite the belt drive side) and removed the cone part of the wheel.... The bearings turned easy no catch points ... just like they should....
Put the wheel back together and torqued it per the book.... I could not turn the bearings AT ALL....
Loosened the torque on the wheel parts.. and the bearings turned fine....
Did a close inspection of the rear axel and saw some indications that the inner race of the bearings had spun on the axel...NOT GOOD..
Took the wheel apart and took out the spacer pipe that goes between the inner bearing races... filed it down about .010 in. put the wheel back together, and torqued to spec... bearings turned a little, but not free.
Took the wheel apart again... took another .005 off the spacer. Put it all back together.... torque to spec.. bearing turning pretty free... put the bike back together....
The shuttering and shaking the bike was having when 1st taking off is gone.....
Either the pipe spacer was too long, or the bearing cups in the wheels were cut too deep... and putting WAY too much load on the bearings when the wheel parts are torqued ... enough to keep them from turning...
Better now...
If this is an issue on your bike.. it is something your dealer should check.. the amount I took off worked for me, but I would not assume that BRP's tolerance at manufacture is tight enough to use these numbers with out several checks at different measurements. When you pull your rear wheel... check you bearings for smooth operation!!!!