Question

[dvmdf]

Could the dying battery cause limp mode and check engine light to come on? What is the life span of a battery on RS? 2008 RS SE5

[Purple Guy]

Typically if you get 5 years out of a battery your doing pretty good.

[sabunim5]

Short answer is Yes. I kept my 08 battery on a tender pretty much all of the time I wasn't on the road. I got five years out of it before I noted that the tender was taking longer to go from yellow to green. I replaced the battery while I was home so it wouldn't hand me an unpleasant surprise on the road somewhere. Also take a look at the lid in your fuse/relay cover. With time the foam develops permanent dents where the items are and doesn't hold them as tight. This can also cause the limp mode and check engine warnings/condition. I added a second layer of foam in 2012 and it stopped the problem.

[Chupaca]

it can cause the limp mode and check engine but not from the battery but from the parts affected by a failing battery. There are systems that need a fully charged battery to operate properly...so loose or corroded connections also do this...but batteries last from 3 to7 years some even longer...:thumbup:

[NancysToy]

Short answer is Yes. I kept my 08 battery on a tender pretty much all of the time I wasn't on the road. I got five years out of it before I noted that the tender was taking longer to go from yellow to green. I replaced the battery while I was home so it wouldn't hand me an unpleasant surprise on the road somewhere. Also take a look at the lid in your fuse/relay cover. With time the foam develops permanent dents where the items are and doesn't hold them as tight. This can also cause the limp mode and check engine warnings/condition. I added a second layer of foam in 2012 and it stopped the problem.
Good point about checking the relays. That can certainly do it. Make sure they are all well seated.

[dvmdf]

Short answer is Yes. I kept my 08 battery on a tender pretty much all of the time I wasn't on the road. I got five years out of it before I noted that the tender was taking longer to go from yellow to green. I replaced the battery while I was home so it wouldn't hand me an unpleasant surprise on the road somewhere. Also take a look at the lid in your fuse/relay cover. With time the foam develops permanent dents where the items are and doesn't hold them as tight. This can also cause the limp mode and check engine warnings/condition. I added a second layer of foam in 2012 and it stopped the problem.
Brilliant idea about the foam. I will change the battery. Is it a simple swap or there is a need for computer reset at the dealer?

[NancysToy]

Brilliant idea about the foam. I will change the battery. Is it a simple swap or there is a need for computer reset at the dealer?
No need for a reset or any other visit to the dealer. It is inside the bodywork, so it takes a little time. Try to get a factory-filled battery. The dry charge batteries need to be filled, let sit overnight, then slowly charged (8-12 hours to overnight). Even the factory-filled batteries should be completely and slowly charged before use, or they may never take a full charge.

[dvmdf]

Is there a sequence to disconnect-connect the terminals: neg first, pos first?

[NancysToy]

Is there a sequence to disconnect-connect the terminals: neg first, pos first?

Always disconnect negative first and reconnect it last with any battery on a vehicle with negative ground. That is the safe way to avoid unintended short circuits from using the tools.

[Bob Denman]

Scotty's got you covered... :thumbup:
82417 nojoke
Let us know how it goes..Good Luck! :2thumbs:

[dvmdf]

Is battery tender junior 12V 0.750 AMP sufficient for this battery? does amperage matter or just the voltage?
Thank you

[Bob Denman]

For maintaining a healthy battery...It's perfect! :2thumbs:
But it's not going to raise the dead! :shocked:

[Motorcycledave]

I have found that you should give hard thought to replacing your battery about every other year...
With all the electronics, radios, lights and such now on motorcycles and Spyders the batteries don't
live as long as they used to, I replace the battery in my GoldWing and ST1100 every 2 years and the
same for my Spyder.
Dave

[BajaRon]

Battery!!! We don't need no stink'in Battery!!!

http://www.kk.org/streetuse/Solartrike.jpg

[Bob Denman]

:lecturef_smilie: You're gonna get Joe in trouble with pictures like that! :shocked: :roflblack:

[dvmdf]

Scotty's got you covered... :thumbup:
82417 nojoke
Let us know how it goes..Good Luck! :2thumbs:
Replaced the battery yesterday, installed a tender, so far no Limp Mode, No check engine light.:clap: I want to thank everybody for the advise. Great group of people here!

[Shandycat]

Replaced the battery yesterday, installed a tender, so far no Limp Mode, No check engine light.:clap: I want to thank everybody for the advise. Great group of people here!

Did you replace it yourself? If so, about how long did it take you? And if you took it to your dealer, can you give me an idea what the charge is, roughly? I'm trying to decide which route to take myself, weighing the cost vs. time factor.... Thanks!

[Dan McNally]

I have found that you should give hard thought to replacing your battery about every other year...
With all the electronics, radios, lights and such now on motorcycles and Spyders the batteries don't
live as long as they used to, I replace the battery in my GoldWing and ST1100 every 2 years and the
same for my Spyder.
Dave
:agree:
I've always done it every three years on motorcycles, and four years on cars . . . it is preventative maintenance, and a lot simpler to change it before you need it, than not be able to start some day when you really want or need to ride! Another thing I do every two years is replace my hoses on the car's coolant system, when I have it flushed . . . I've never been stranded by the side of the road with a leaking radiator since I started that practice, many years ago . . . I plan to do that on my Spyder, too . . . so much frustration can be prevented with a little preventative maintenance!

[Cruzr Joe]

:lecturef_smilie: You're gonna get Joe in trouble with pictures like that! :shocked: :roflblack:


I have nothing to say on this matter :lecturef_smilie:

Cruzr joe

[dvmdf]

Did you replace it yourself? If so, about how long did it take you? And if you took it to your dealer, can you give me an idea what arge is, roughly? I'm trying to decide which route to take myself, weighing the cost vs. time factor.... Thanks!

I did it myself. I had to remove 2 panels and disconnect the light, it is not hard on RS. The battery comes out easy. There are videos on how to do it here or check youtube. The new battery comes with small adapters that go into contacts so the wires can connect properly. When you pull the old battery out you will see what I am talking about. Remember to disconnect and connect the wires in the correct sequence. It would also be a good idea to install a battery tender at that time. It took me about 45 min from start to finish. The dealer should not charge more that an hr of labor.