Question

[dvmdf]

Could not start the bike yesterday after a 20 mile ride. After several tries it started with a check engine light and limp mode. Performed well, no issues shifting or anything else on the way home. Started fine this am , went for 80 mile ride, no engine light, after a 30 min stop, started fine but had engine light on again. Stopped, waited 5 min, started again the light did not come on, 2008 RS SE5 with still original battery, 15,000 miles, spark plugs and wires changed 2 years ago( 2000 miles) with factory equipment ( did not want to void the warranty). Has anybody had this issue with bad battery, what's the average battery life on RS. Check battery warning light did not come on.
Thank you

[3 Wheel Addict]

Codes??

[dvmdf]

Codes??
How do I pull them?

[schnauzermom]

Turn your bike on, at the same time press your MOD-SET-TURN SIGNAL buttons. Kind of like Ctrl-Alt-Delete on your computer.......the only thing is I'm not sure if your bike is like my 2011 RT.......hope this helps

[Bob Ledford]

Hi

It sounds like from your limited information it sounds like your battery took a hike and had a heart attack that proved to be fatal. Five years is exceptional battery life. Dig out your manual and snatch that dead dog out of there.

Before you trash it check it out and make sure it is DOA.

when you put in the replacement make sure your connections are bright & tight. Then smear a dab of grease on the terminal to keep them from corroding on you. Because I know your not going to want to get in there every month or two and do preventative maintenance

[happyspyder2039]

Could not start the bike yesterday after a 20 mile ride. After several tries it started with a check engine light and limp mode. Performed well, no issues shifting or anything else on the way home. Started fine this am , went for 80 mile ride, no engine light, after a 30 min stop, started fine but had engine light on again. Stopped, waited 5 min, started again the light did not come on, 2008 RS SE5 with still original battery, 15,000 miles, spark plugs and wires changed 2 years ago( 2000 miles) with factory equipment ( did not want to void the warranty). Has anybody had this issue with bad battery, what's the average battery life on RS. Check battery warning light did not come on.
Thank youcheck fuses they are known to come loose. Battery is probably fine. you can check codes by pressing mode button till engine hrs show then hold mode press headlight switch 5 times to get codes. it should display code or say no codes

[SpyderSue]

My battery leads tend to vibrate loose, and cause intermittent issues. I'd check those 1st. Once I figured this out, it solve a LOT of problems for me.

[NancysToy]

Turn your bike on, at the same time press your MOD-SET-TURN SIGNAL buttons. Kind of like Ctrl-Alt-Delete on your computer.......the only thing is I'm not sure if your bike is like my 2011 RT.......hope this helps
:lecturef_smilie: That is not the proper procedure for an RS.

[dvmdf]

check fuses they are known to come loose. Battery is probably fine. you can check codes by pressing mode button till engine hrs show then hold mode press headlight switch 5 times to get codes. it should display code or say no codes
I tried that and the display does not pull any codes nor does it say "no codes"??? Checked the fuses yesterday, all tight, had check engine light on today. Yesterday before the whole thing started I hit a patch of rough road at 45mph heard a clunk, thought it was a rear shock maxing out. Maybe something got loose?

[coz]

even if you find a loose cable, you're still rolling the dice with an old battery. a new one is cheap insurance.

[dvmdf]

Thank you everybody for pitching in. Will try the new battery. Is it a simple swap or the bike needs to be hooked to BUDS to set up/reset the ECM?

[NancysToy]

For the RS:

If the engine can be started:
Turn ignition key on
Use the mode button to scroll to "Total Hours"
Start the engine,
While holding down the mode button press the "flash high beam" button 5 times withing 2 seconds,
Release all buttons,
The faults will be displayed in sequence, or "No Active Fault" will be displayed. If nothing is displayed, you did not do the procedure correctly, or did not get in 5 high beam flashes in 2 seconds. Repeat the procedure.

If engine cannot be started:
Turn ignition key on
Use the mode button to scroll to "Total Hours"
Hold down the headlight override button on the right handlebar,
While holding down the mode button press the "flash high beam" button 5 times withing 2 seconds,
Release all buttons,
The faults will be displayed in sequence, or "No Active Fault" will be displayed. If nothing is displayed, you did not do the procedure correctly, or did not get in 5 high beam flashes in 2 seconds. Repeat the procedure.

[dvmdf]

For the RS:

If the engine can be started:
Turn ignition key on
Use the mode button to scroll to "Total Hours"
Start the engine,
While holding down the mode button press the "flash high beam" button 5 times withing 2 seconds,
Release all buttons,
The faults will be displayed in sequence, or "No Active Fault" will be displayed. If nothing is displayed, you did not do the procedure correctly, or did not get in 5 high beam flashes in 2 seconds. Repeat the procedure.

If engine cannot be started:
Turn ignition key on
Use the mode button to scroll to "Total Hours"
Hold down the headlight override button on the right handlebar,
While holding down the mode button press the "flash high beam" button 5 times withing 2 seconds,
Release all buttons,
The faults will be displayed in sequence, or "No Active Fault" will be displayed. If nothing is displayed, you did not do the procedure correctly, or did not get in 5 high beam flashes in 2 seconds. Repeat the procedure.
Thank you Scotty,
"NO ACTIVE FAULT CODE"

[NancysToy]

Thank you Scotty,
"NO ACTIVE FAULT CODE"
If your check engine light has cleared or your turned the Spyder off before you checked, you may not see an active fault code. The dealer can look at the occurred faults with BUDS, to see what happened previously. When it wouldn't start, did it crank, or crank as fast as it usually does? If so, the battery probably is not at fault. The terminals at the battery itself (not under the seat) should be checked for cleanliness and tightness anyway, and the negative jump start terminal under the seat should be checked for tightness. There are some tests you can run on the battery if you have a multimeter and a charger. If it cranks well but doesn't fire right away, try cracking the throttle a little and trying it. If that doesn't work open the throttle wide open and crank again to clear the flooded cylinders, then close the throttle and try again. Flooding the engine can result in a check engine light, and cranking a long time continuously can result in limp mode. If troubles remain after all this, and the battery checks out as good, then it is time to see your dealer. You may need new spark plugs or plug wires, or have another problem.

[Chupaca]

you say it starts and drives fin but the check engine light comes on some times. This would not be the battery though it is old. I have had this on our RS and found the oil low. Topped it off and all is fine. If no codes present then have it hooked up to buds...:dontknow:

[dvmdf]

If your check engine light has cleared or your turned the Spyder off before you checked, you may not see an active fault code. The dealer can look at the occurred faults with BUDS, to see what happened previously. When it wouldn't start, did it crank, or crank as fast as it usually does? If so, the battery probably is not at fault. The terminals at the battery itself (not under the seat) should be checked for cleanliness and tightness anyway, and the negative jump start terminal under the seat should be checked for tightness. There are some tests you can run on the battery if you have a multimeter and a charger. If it cranks well but doesn't fire right away, try cracking the throttle a little and trying it. If that doesn't work open the throttle wide open and crank again to clear the flooded cylinders, then close the throttle and try again. Flooding the engine can result in a check engine light, and cranking a long time continuously can result in limp mode. If troubles remain after all this, and the battery checks out as good, then it is time to see your dealer. You may need new spark plugs or plug wires, or have another problem.
It did not crank at all yesterday, went into limp mode right away,I turned it off, started but was still in a limp mode. Rode it home like that. Today started fine, on /off about 10 times through the day, no problems starting, no limp mode, check engine light came on once, I stopped, restarted in 5 min and there was no light any more. I keep my oil low, may be it was too low. I will add some, replace the battery and we'll see what happens

[dvmdf]

you say it starts and drives fin but the check engine light comes on some times. This would not be the battery though it is old. I have had this on our RS and found the oil low. Topped it off and all is fine. If no codes present then have it hooked up to buds...:dontknow:
Thank you, You might be right, I keep the level low, I will add some, to the midpoint on the stick. I appreciate your advise :thumbup:

[n1njazx7]

Why would you keep your oil level low? Is there something I'm not aware of here? I keep mine at full, is this wrong?:shocked::shocked:

[NancysToy]

It did not crank at all yesterday, went into limp mode right away,I turned it off, started but was still in a limp mode. Rode it home like that. Today started fine, on /off about 10 times through the day, no problems starting, no limp mode, check engine light came on once, I stopped, restarted in 5 min and there was no light any more. I keep my oil low, may be it was too low. I will add some, replace the battery and we'll see what happens
If it will not crank, and shows a bunch of warnings, then the battery is almost certainly low. If it just won't crank (or run the fuel pump) the kill switch is probably off or faulty. Check the battery and rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal) connections before you replace a battery possibly needlessly. You can test the battery with a multimeter (voltmeter). When jst charged and removed from the chharger, a good battery will read 13 volts or above. Anything over 12.6 is acceptable. After charging and sitting off the charger for several hours to overnight, the battery should still retain 12.7 volts or more. You can do a crude load test by holding the throttle wide open to prevent startng, and reading the voltage while you crank the engine. The voltage should not drop below 10.0. If any of these tests fail, battery replacement is probably in order. Your dealer can test the battery more thoroughly.

[dvmdf]

Why would you keep your oil level low? Is there something I'm not aware of here? I keep mine at full, is this wrong?:shocked::shocked:
I had an issue with oil in the airbox and was told here and by the dealer that it's due to oil overfill. So I keep it just below 1/2 on the stick. This is a common issue on early RS models.

[schnauzermom]

:lecturef_smilie: That is not the proper procedure for an RS.

So sorry, just trying to help.....as I was posting realized it might not be the same as the RT, that's why my last sentence addressed it

[Jeriatric]

So sorry, just trying to help.....as I was posting realized it might not be the same as the RT, that's why my last sentence addressed it

Been there.....done that too. No biggie for sure. :chat: :roflblack: