Fog Lights

[IdleUp]

While I was at the dealer this morning, I picked up a set of BRP Fog lights, once I got home I was blown away that you pretty much have to disassemble the who front end and dash assemble to just to stick two lights on the bike.

Has anyone else installed these lights - I picked up a set of 55 watt lights at WalMart for only $19 I might just put the BRP lights on Ebay.

[BRPjunkie]

Go to the Step-by Step instructions section for fog light install. It is a full dismantle and reassemble of the front end. Spyder web site still says "easy installation" and that could not be further from the truth. At $400, they should jump on the bike and install themselves, but that's also how I feel about the $650 sport rack/backrest.

[jeuchler]

Go to the Step-by Step instructions section for fog light install. It is a full dismantle and reassemble of the front end. Spyder web site still says "easy installation" and that could not be further from the truth. At $400, they should jump on the bike and install themselves, but that's also how I feel about the $650 sport rack/backrest.

To be fair, the rack/backrest is a pretty easy install, although I always feel more comfortable with nuts and bolts over watts and volts!

That's the same reason I've installed everything myself so far except the 1" riser: If the dealer wants to charge more for labor than the part costs, I feel somehow swindled...

(By the way, I may put the 1" riser on eBay!)

[NancysToy]

We had the dealer install our foglights at the time of dealer prep. That was due to the obvious difficulties, no matter what BRP's hype said, and that the trunk is shipped off the Spyder, making installation up front easier. The quality and functionality of the BRP foglights is outstanding, though. They add visibility during the daytime, and light up in front of the bike well (which is really nice with the wide spread wheels during night maneuvering). They are worth the money, despite the efforts needed to install them.
-Scotty

[IdleUp]

Ok, now the magic question - I run with the high beams on during the day - will the fog lights stay on when the hi beams are burning?

Keep in mind I bought them for safety reasons.

[sabunim5]

The fog lights have their own switch. Yes, you can run your headlights and your fog lights at the same time. I do it all the time.

[Stuart49]

I was very impressed with the Fog Light Kit and did the install myself. I followed the included instructions, but also referred to some notes from another post. Once you've completed this install you will be much more acquainted with your machine! This is a good thing! Have fun.,....

<Installation of the fog light harness will take a bit of patience and time. Seems BRB was over generous with wire, most of the harness has some excess of wire and will take a few wire ties to properly secure it it in place. In the pic below you will see that BRB has provided a space on the bottom for attaching the HLC unit. One thing I suggest is to the placement of the fog light relay assembly, when we secured it BRB recommends, it became an issue when re-installing the console. After some thinking we secured it to the front of the multiple connector mounting bracket. Take time and make sure the harness is routed and secured as recommended, this way you will not have an issue when replacing the body parts, and all connectors will be in the correct areas for reconnection.>


file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CStuart%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmso html1%5C01%5Cclip_image001.jpg

[IdleUp]

Thanks for the help - the image did not display - do you have another link?

Thanks

[kma10-4]

:chat: does anyone have the instuctions for the fog lights?

my button does not light up.. i think the wires to it are on
wrong and dealer threw away the instructions..
or maybe some one could tell me what color wire to what post
on the button..:dontknow:

[NancysToy]

:chat: does anyone have the instuctions for the fog lights?

my button does not light up.. i think the wires to it are on
wrong and dealer threw away the instructions..
or maybe some one could tell me what color wire to what post
on the button..:dontknow:
Wiring is as follows:
- Blue wire to pin [1]
- Red wire to pin [4]
- a black wire to pin [2]
- the other black wire to pin [3]

PM me with your email address, and I'll be glad to scan and email you the instructions, which this excerpt came from. Also some have reported faulty switches, which had to be replaced.
-Scotty

[Way2Fast]

Wiring is as follows:
- Blue wire to pin [1]
- Red wire to pin [4]
- a black wire to pin [2]
- the other black wire to pin [3]

PM me with your email address, and I'll be glad to scan and email you the instructions, which this excerpt came from. Also some have reported faulty switches, which had to be replaced.
-Scotty


I just purchased a set of 55w riding lights at Walmart for $15.47. If I hook them up to the fuse box connection labeled "fog lights" I assume the hot wires from each light assembly will connect to the #1 and # 4 pins and the 2 ground wires to # 2 and #3 pins. I'm thinking about using a remote controled on-off switch so no holes would have to be driled in the Spyder panels.

[IdleUp]

I just picked up a set of those Wal-Mart specials as well - for myself, I really don't have any reason to turn them off either day or night, so I'll bail on the switch since I'm not going to drill any holes in my bike.

Since BRP went through 100K expense of packaging and perfecting of the fog light kits and the waste of the old grilles, seems to me that would have put in a knock out so we're not drilling holes like cavemen.

[BRPjunkie]

I have been sitting on my 55 watt lamps waiting to mount them on the upper suspension arms until someone could confirm:
1. Will a direct connection to the fog light fuse slot set the nanny off?
2. Since the fog light tap in the fuse box has a 10 amp fuse in it, did you have to replace it with a 15 amp to carry the load of two 55 watt lamps?
3. Did you install a relay after the fuse box or go straight to the lamps?
4. Does the load of two 55 watt lamps strain the battery. If so, will dropping down to H3, 35 watt lamps work?

Hoping your efforts will answer these questions.

[BRPjunkie]

I read somewhere that if you take a stone to the BRP fog lights, you can't get a replacement, you have to buy another set. While not a common occurrence, apparently it has happened to someone already.

[NancysToy]

I read somewhere that if you take a stone to the BRP fog lights, you can't get a replacement, you have to buy another set. While not a common occurrence, apparently it has happened to someone already.
If that's the case, the projector headlights are the same deal, although the price may differ considerably. Anyway, that's what our comprehensive insurance coverage is for. I'll take my chances. Love these foglights.
-Scotty

[bjt]

I have been sitting on my 55 watt lamps waiting to mount them on the upper suspension arms until someone could confirm:
1. Will a direct connection to the fog light fuse slot set the nanny off?
2. Since the fog light tap in the fuse box has a 10 amp fuse in it, did you have to replace it with a 15 amp to carry the load of two 55 watt lamps?
3. Did you install a relay after the fuse box or go straight to the lamps?
4. Does the load of two 55 watt lamps strain the battery. If so, will dropping down to H3, 35 watt lamps work?

Hoping your efforts will answer these questions.

My take on a few of your questions...

Volts X Amps = Watts
12 volts X 10 amps = 120 watts
55 watts X 2 = 110 watts

Ideally, the 10 amp fuse should be able to handle two 55 watt lamps. I wouldn't go to a 15 amp fuse unless the 10 amp fuse was constantly blowing and you verified that there wasn't some other problem causing the fuse to blow.

I would think you would only need to use a relay if you can't find a fog light switch that is rated for 10 or 15 amps. The relay contacts would then need to be rated to handle at least 10 amps, more if your fog lights are pulling more power than that. It certainly wouldn't hurt to use a switch or relay that was rated for 15 or 20 amps.

Isn't the fog light fuse one of the switched accessories? The lights turn off when the Spyder key is off? If so, I wouldn't worry about the battery drain of aftermarket fog lights unless you are burning them a lot without the engine running.

[BRPjunkie]

Thanks for the reply. Obviously, I'm not the winner of the electronics category in Jeopardy, so I'll keep learning from those who might be. The 55 watt lights I bought have an in line 15 amp fuse, that's why I thought it might need a 15 at the fuse block. The lights come with a switch, but no relay, so it must be rated at 15 amps. I still might replace the H3-55 watt lamps with H3-35 watt ones. Not sure I need 220 watts of front lights, especially since the BRP fog lamps are 30 watts.

Any thoughts on how the nanny may react to a direct feed off the fuse block rather than feeding through the BRP combination harness? It should not be a problem, but this is one complicated electronic system.

[Lamonster]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5886

[IdleUp]

Here's my "Poor Mans" fog light installation - I hung the bracket with the bolt under the A frame that holds the plastic cover. I have one bolt holding it and some JB Weld on the bracket to hold it in place. This makes a nice clean installation.

I've yet to make the final wiring however, I want them on all the time.

My only concerns with this installation is I'm not sure the life span of the bulb, if you've watched the A frames work when riding the bike, there is I feel too much motion for the fixture and bulb so I Might re-locate them.

http://www.rcmodeling.com/canam/fog1.jpg

http://www.rcmodeling.com/canam/fog2.jpg

[bjt]

Thanks for the reply. Obviously, I'm not the winner of the electronics category in Jeopardy, so I'll keep learning from those who might be. The 55 watt lights I bought have an in line 15 amp fuse, that's why I thought it might need a 15 at the fuse block. The lights come with a switch, but no relay, so it must be rated at 15 amps. I still might replace the H3-55 watt lamps with H3-35 watt ones. Not sure I need 220 watts of front lights, especially since the BRP fog lamps are 30 watts.

I'm not familiar with the fog lights that you are installing and, just because the bulbs will only draw about 9 amps, there may be other components in the set up that draw additional current. If you were fusing an electrical device and wanted to calculate what size fuse to use, you would determine the current draw of all the components in the device, total them up and then add a 'fudge factor' of 10% or so. Just going off of the 55 watt bulbs, 9.17 amps + 0.917 amps is 10.087 amps. A 10 amp fuse should be good for that.

If the manufacturer included a 15 amp fuse, I would guess that the fog lights need to be fused at 15 amps to work reliably. If you are scaling back to 35 watt lights, the 10 amp fuse should work without any issues.



Any thoughts on how the nanny may react to a direct feed off the fuse block rather than feeding through the BRP combination harness? It should not be a problem, but this is one complicated electronic system.

I'm not sure how the Spyder monitors the fog light power. If it is like the accessory wiring, I would think there would be no problem. If it monitors fog light power like it does brake lights, then you could have an issue depending on how far off your aftermarket lights power specs are from BRP's fog lights.

[NancysToy]

If the manufacturer included a 15 amp fuse, I would guess that the fog lights need to be fused at 15 amps to work reliably. If you are scaling back to 35 watt lights, the 10 amp fuse should work without any issues.
My experience with these indicates that there is a lot of variation by manufacturers in selecting fuse and wire size. Some cut it close, and some go the extra mile. Most fusing seems to be based on wire size, and not necessarily the load involved. If this manufacturer used a 15 amp fuse and correspondingly heavier wire for a 10 amp load, that is good.

These types of lights are usually prone to substantial heating while in use. That reduces the circuit's ability to carry the load, so heavier wiring and fusing may also be adviseable from that standpoint. A 10 amp fuse would leave insufficient margin with a 9.2 amp cold load. At any rate, don't increase the rating of the Spyder fuse without verifying that the wire size is adequate for a larger load. I would also advise against wiring straight to the fusebox with a 15 amp fuse there, since that leaves the remaining, standard harness inadequately protected. Better to install an auxilliary fusebox and ground bus, or the Evoluzuion power block, and tap in there. Best advice, switch to 35 W bulbs. It will simplify your life.
-Scotty

[BRPjunkie]

Thanks everyone for your input.

[Spanky]

I deal with this type of specmanship every day.

A 10 amp fuse for 9.2 amps load is not the ideal condition. The is no headroom for surges. Everyone is saying 55 Watts at 12 volts. That is the rating of the lamps at 12 volts and that wattage will increase as voltage increases. These things magneto will put out anywhere from 13 to 14.5 volts. Then voila you are over 10 amps.

In this case I would put a minimum of a 12 amp fuse and I would be very comfortable at a 15 amp fuse. It is not an unusual to to fuse at 150% of rated load.

I hope this helps....

[pphantom538]

Scotty & Spanky,
Thanks for the advise.

[SpyderMark]

The 55 watt lights I bought have an in line 15 amp fuse, that's why I thought it might need a 15 at the fuse block.

The fuse is there to protect the wiring, not the component. If the component (or any other part of the power circuit) shorts to ground, you want the fuse to blow BEFORE the wire burns.

Current handling (amperage) of the wire is based on its size (gauge), and whether or not it's part of a bundle. Send a current thru a wire and it begins to heat. For a given gauge wire, the more current, the more heat. A wire in free air can handle more current than a wire that's part of a bundle because it can radiate the heat away.

Bottom line; if the wire as installed in the circuit can handle 35 amps at 14 volts without burning, a 30 amp fuse is perfectly acceptable -- even if the component connected to the circuit only draws 2 amps. Conversely, if you install a 30 amp fuse to "protect" a component which draws only 20 amps, but the wire can only handle 25 amps, the wire will smoke before the fuse blows.:shocked:

Letting the smoke out of a wire (or other electrical/electronic component) renders it inoperable. Also, once you let the smoke out, it's nigh impossible to get it back in...;)

The wire that comes with most aftermarket light kits is typically hardy. Since the fuse in the inline holder that comes with such kits is designed to protect the wiring, one might make the assumption the kit manufacturer appropriately sized the inline fuse, but you can check for yourself.

Click here (http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761) for an excellent thread on wire size and fuse selection.

Regards,

Mark

[ataDude]

...Letting the smoke out of a wire (or other electrical/electronic component) renders it inoperable. Also, once you let the smoke out, it's nigh impossible to get it back in...;)

Mark


Bahawaaaaa! :D :D :D :D

[bjt]

The fuse is there to protect the wiring, not the component. If the component (or any other part of the power circuit) shorts to ground, you want the fuse to blow BEFORE the wire burns.

Current handling (amperage) of the wire is based on its size (gauge), and whether or not it's part of a bundle. Send a current thru a wire and it begins to heat. For a given gauge wire, the more current, the more heat. A wire in free air can handle more current than a wire that's part of a bundle because it can radiate the heat away.

Bottom line; if the wire as installed in the circuit can handle 35 amps at 14 volts without burning, a 30 amp fuse is perfectly acceptable -- even if the component connected to the circuit only draws 2 amps. Conversely, if you install a 30 amp fuse to "protect" a component which draws only 20 amps, but the wire can only handle 25 amps, the wire will smoke before the fuse blows.:shocked:

Letting the smoke out of a wire (or other electrical/electronic component) renders it inoperable. Also, once you let the smoke out, it's nigh impossible to get it back in...;)

The wire that comes with most aftermarket light kits is typically hardy. Since the fuse in the inline holder that comes with such kits is designed to protect the wiring, one might make the assumption the kit manufacturer appropriately sized the inline fuse, but you can check for yourself.

Click here (http://www.oznium.com/forum/topic15761) for an excellent thread on wire size and fuse selection.

Regards,

Mark


This has turned into an electrical design thread... :D

[retread]

Wow, reminds me of trade school days.:popcorn: