Question about DPS code

[Bmac]

I have a 2010 rt-ac I am getting the orange screen DPS code. I called dealer and the DPS unit has been taken care of as far as recall goes. Is there any fuse or connecter I should check before takeing it to the dealer. I have about 4000 miles on the Spyder.

THANKS FOR ANY INFO.

[Chupaca]

which..but make it a habit to wiggle all the feuses and relays from time to time to make sure they have good contact. Would have to see fuse positions in the RT but you should have it in your manual....:thumbup:

[Jeriatric]

I have a 2010 rt-ac I am getting the orange screen DPS code. I called dealer and the DPS unit has been taken care of as far as recall goes. Is there any fuse or connecter I should check before takeing it to the dealer. I have about 4000 miles on the Spyder.

THANKS FOR ANY INFO.

Per Rogers handy guide. It says to check battery connections. Loose or corroded?

[NancysToy]

When my 2011 did that repeatedly it ended up needing a new DPS. Sensor problems can also initiate it. A low battery or bad battery or front or rear frame ground connection can, too...and is the first place to look. The DPS takes the most amperage of anything but the starter. Without the actual fault codes (if any), it is hard to troubleshoot from afar. Your dealer may be able to shed light on the cause and the cure.

[Cambello]

When my 2011 did that repeatedly it ended up needing a new DPS. Sensor problems can also initiate it. A low battery or bad battery or front or rear frame ground connection can, too...and is the first place to look. The DPS takes the most amperage of anything but the starter. Without the actual fault codes (if any), it is hard to troubleshoot from afar. Your dealer may be able to shed light on the cause and the cure.
OK i see its the battery so were do you charge the battery? im reading that there is two battery's, is there a single charging point?

[SNOOPY]

I don't know about any Spyder having dual batteries. I've heard the RTs battery is under the seat, might want to check if you can reach the terminals there. May just be the terminal posts there, which you can use. Be sure to connect pos/neg correctly.

Sorry I don't know RTs well, just trying to help since you're posting early. :dontknow:

[SNOOPY]

DPS stands for several things on different cars, what is it on a Spyder?

Most common is a Differential Pressure Sensor which wouldn't make sense on a Spyder?

[Cambello]

I don't know about any Spyder having dual batteries. I've heard the RTs battery is under the seat, might want to check if you can reach the terminals there. May just be the terminal posts there, which you can use. Be sure to connect pos/neg correctly.

Sorry I don't know RTs well, just trying to help since you're posting early. :dontknow:

Sorry I was on youtube looking at Lam who fitted a secound bat, Yes spyder has one main bat...thanks

[DrewNJ]

Dynamic Power Steering

Also, if your battery is original it's time for a change. These things are very sensitive to battery voltage.


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[NancysToy]

OK i see its the battery so were do you charge the battery? im reading that there is two battery's, is there a single charging point?
There is a single battery in OEM Spyders. Depending on the year, it is located under the rear of the seat or behind the front trunk. There are jump start terminals near the battery location that can be used to attach a motorcycle battery maintainer like a Battery Tender. Do not use a heavy duty charger or conventional trickle charger. The maintainer should state that it is suitable for use with AGM batteries. You can also charge via the rear trunk outlet on an RT with a cigarette adapter for your charger (easier prior to 2013), or attach a charging pigtail directly to the battery terminals if you remove some body panels.

[SNOOPY]

Dynamic Power Steering

Also, if your battery is original it's time for a change. These things are very sensitive to battery voltage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks, I did figure it had to do w steering at least. Lol

[Cambello]

There is a single battery in OEM Spyders. Depending on the year, it is located under the rear of the seat or behind the front trunk. There are jump start terminals near the battery location that can be used to attach a motorcycle battery maintainer like a Battery Tender. Do not use a heavy duty charger or conventional trickle charger. The maintainer should state that it is suitable for use with AGM batteries. You can also charge via the rear trunk outlet on an RT with a cigarette adapter for your charger (easier prior to 2013), or attach a charging pigtail directly to the battery terminals if you remove some body panels.
Seems the battery can do all sorts of funny things but is this related; I've noticed the back lights flickering even when the key is taken out:( Why would it do that??? and the brake lights are flickering as well, sounds like the Emu is playing up,,,,, but ive been told that even if a bulb is out that to can send these units into a frenzy.

[NancysToy]

Seems the battery can do all sorts of funny things but is this related; I've noticed the back lights flickering even when the key is taken out:( Why would it do that??? and the brake lights are flickering as well, sounds like the Emu is playing up,,,,, but ive been told that even if a bulb is out that to can send these units into a frenzy.
The brake lights could flicker with the key out, due to a short circuit, water in a connector, or more likely a brake switch that is partly engaged (probably due to the rubber stopper for the pedal being too thick or the switch being out of adjustment. The backup lights should not function when the switch is off. Are you sure it isn't just a reflection? Those reflector lenses can give that appearance sometimes.

[Cambello]

The brake lights could flicker with the key out, due to a short circuit, water in a connector, or more likely a brake switch that is partly engaged (probably due to the rubber stopper for the pedal being too thick or the switch being out of adjustment. The backup lights should not function when the switch is off. Are you sure it isn't just a reflection? Those reflector lenses can give that appearance sometimes.
No definitely wasn't a reflection, the outer ring are on as normal, but so are the inner brakelights . But when the key is pulled the lights flicker a bit like a short circuit. I put the battery on charge and the light on the charger displayed fully charged straight away, this would indicate that the battery is ok, it is very damp at the moment around these parts it might just be that this is causing the problems.

[NancysToy]

No definitely wasn't a reflection, the outer ring are on as normal, but so are the inner brakelights . But when the key is pulled the lights flicker a bit like a short circuit. I put the battery on charge and the light on the charger displayed fully charged straight away, this would indicate that the battery is ok, it is very damp at the moment around these parts it might just be that this is causing the problems.
Although the dampness could cause a problem, it should not. I'd see your dealer. If the brake lights remain on, however, that indicates a problem. There was a service bulletin regarding brake lights staying on for the 2013 RT. If the lights merely flicker once when the key is turned off it may be an artifact of the system. I wouldn't worry unless they flicker repeatedly or for more than a second or two.

[Cambello]

Although the dampness could cause a problem, it should not. I'd see your dealer. If the brake lights remain on, however, that indicates a problem. There was a service bulletin regarding brake lights staying on for the 2013 RT. If the lights merely flicker once when the key is turned off it may be an artifact of the system. I wouldn't worry unless they flicker repeatedly or for more than a second or two.
Ok so today I went into work and the :ani29: was great, no issues, so I put her in the boiler house and left it for 9 hours to dry out, it came out cooking and bone dry even a little bit of condensation in the headlights went, so great. But on the way home up came the fault again and this time the bike went into Limp mode, lights flashing, orange screen,DPS fault, the lot. So I pulled over a,nd went into code register, wow too many to record, must have been 8 codes up! by the time I got my phone out to take a photo shot of it the bike had switched off, then of course when I turned the key again all the codes bar 1 had gone(P0504). So I drove home (10 miles) and no issues. But this time I switched my handlebar heaters off, but something I am noticing is that just before all this happens I can't put my Cruise control on. Now that would suggest the brakes or brake lights are effecting it. AS if I don't have enough worries we don't have a local dealer so I feel this is going to be along struggle,,,,

[Cambello]

I feel like Sherlock Holmes, ok so I've just been through the service book and it would seem the DPS on this trike has been changed Twice, Once in 2011 and again in 2013 June,,,,, I see a bit of history here, so what does this DPS unit look like? can any one tell me where to find it and how much these things cost? tomorrow i'm ripping out the fuses and the earth's on the bike cleaning them and start again from scratch, in the words of the talking head from Harry Potter,,"hold on to your heads were in for a bumpy ride". I always laugh in times of crisis,,,,,:pray:

[Kingers]

Hi Cambello,

hope this helps,


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/genuine-Can-am-Spyder-DPS-unit-MPN-709400962-/190974415350?pt=UK_CartsParts_Vehicles_ATVQuad_Tri ke_Parts_Accessories_SM&hash=item2c76f651f6 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/genuine-Can-am-Spyder-DPS-unit-MPN-709400962-/190974415350?pt=UK_CartsParts_Vehicles_ATVQuad_Tri ke_Parts_Accessories_SM&hash=item2c76f651f6)

[NancysToy]

You really do need a dealer to sort out the sequence of failure codes via BUDS. Be aware that a brake light switch failure, riding(continuosly touching) the brake, or failure of the brake pedal to fully return can cause a series of cascading codes...including DPS failure. A more common cause of cascading codes is a low battery condition however. I'd check your battery connections inside the body for tightness and cleanliness. Check to see that the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under hte seat) is tight. Then check the battery voltage, charging, and load test. I recommend you also check the brake reservoir to see that the brake fluid is fully topped off. The level can be deceiving, so make sur it is full. A brake fauklt can cause a VSS fault and subsequently a DPS fault. Beyond that checking the wiring connectors for moisture intrusion and tightness would be a good plan. If you can't make it to a dealer, you need to eliminate likely causes one by one until you can isolate the primary culprit.

[Cambello]

You really do need a dealer to sort out the sequence of failure codes via BUDS. Be aware that a brake light switch failure, riding(continuosly touching) the brake, or failure of the brake pedal to fully return can cause a series of cascading codes...including DPS failure. A more common cause of cascading codes is a low battery condition however. I'd check your battery connections inside the body for tightness and cleanliness. Check to see that the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under hte seat) is tight. Then check the battery voltage, charging, and load test. I recommend you also check the brake reservoir to see that the brake fluid is fully topped off. The level can be deceiving, so make sur it is full. A brake fauklt can cause a VSS fault and subsequently a DPS fault. Beyond that checking the wiring connectors for moisture intrusion and tightness would be a good plan. If you can't make it to a dealer, you need to eliminate likely causes one by one until you can isolate the primary culprit.
Think I need a crane to pick me up from the floor, £675 for a new DPS when the bike is only 3 years old and on it's 3rd DPS Unit, that can not be right!!! I think doing all the above before I dig deep has got to be the best option. And the cheapest. The bike has only covered 10,300 miles and only 1300 miles since the unit was last replaced. I have a feeling it's going to be something stupid with the brake lights or switches lets hope so!
Thanks for all your comments and inputs,

[Cambello]

Hi Guys, OK so now I have cleaned the posts and the ground cables and Touch Wood all has been ok, But I'm one for looking for other clues and I was just thinking could the DPS fault be linked to riding the brakes, i.e have your foot on the brakes and accelerator at the same time? so what I have done is removed all obsticles that might be causing me to do this, like the back foot plate. I've forund that when its down it doesnt give me much room to get my size 10.5's out of the way. So I might have been resting my foot on the brake pedal. Anyway I've done 75 miles now and the DPS alarm is dorment.

[Oldtimer51]

There is only a single Battery in the Spyder RT. (and all the Spyders. From what I know)
The charging points are under the seat. The one on the left side with a Red Plug cover is the POSITIVE terminal and the one on the Right side is the NEGATIVE terminal connection. You don't actually connect to the Battery terminals since the battery is hidden under a bunch of plastic covers. The manual instructions are very clear. Follow the insstruction of where to connect your Battery charger or Battery tender ( They do the same thing, charge the battery)

[Mikey]

There is only a single Battery in the Spyder RT. (and all the Spyders. From what I know)
The charging points are under the seat. The one on the left side with a Red Plug cover is the POSITIVE terminal and the one on the Right side is the NEGATIVE terminal connection. You don't actually connect to the Battery terminals since the battery is hidden under a bunch of plastic covers. The manual instructions are very clear. Follow the insstruction of where to connect your Battery charger or Battery tender ( They do the same thing, charge the battery)

This was posted in 2014, bet he found his battery by now!!:roflblack: Dam old post get me all the time!!!:ohyea: