A question for Over-Heated Riders

[BajaRon]

Have you tried this? Though I have not had heating issues I may give it a run after a bit more research. The chart does not compare this product to standard anti-freeze/coolant. But you'd assume it would be higher than any of the tested products. Then again, you know what ASSUME(ing) will get you!

An important item that is always a question with high performance coolant products is boil-over and freeze protection. This one has very good numbers in that respect also.



Note: Boiling point protection up to 260°F (126.6°C); freezing point protection down to -30°F (-34°C).

I am not promoting or even recommending this product because I have not tried it myself. But it does look very interesting.

http://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/Motosport/LIQPERF-COOL-02_is?$NewPDP2$ http://www.liquidperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dynotest_combined4-600x379.jpg

[Bob Denman]

Interesting... :thumbup:
I used Engine Ice with very good results in my "686ed" Grizzly 660.
A radiator that was completely clogged with mud :shocked:: no problem! :D
It's good to know that there are some actual numbers that can be shown as proof!

[Chupaca]

and certainly worth a try. Being in a warmer climate I have dropped the ratio to 75%-25% water to antifreeze and added water wetter and have had good results. Might switch to this product and see how it does...thanks...:thumbup:

[BajaRon]

and certainly worth a try. Being in a warmer climate I have dropped the ratio to 75%-25% water to antifreeze and added water wetter and have had good results. Might switch to this product and see how it does...thanks...:thumbup:

I am currently running a 70/30 mix with Water Wetter. It dropped me some but I'm always looking for better. I don't see any downside at this point.

[Magdave]

I just wonder if it will affect the BRP warranty. I have a 5 year warranty so I need to be careful about what I do.:dontknow:

[bluestratos]

It should not affect warranty but I would like to see the actual test data to support the claim. I use engine ice for two years and yes, it does drop the temperature as it allows the coolant to make better contact with the radiator so the air passing through picks up more heat. However, it actually raises the under tupperware temperatures a bit by being more efficient. The bike is happier but the rider may not be unfortunately. That being said now that I insulated tupperware and wrapped the pipes I feel no heat at all.

From what I cans see, the thermostat goes wide open around 195 on the freeway so it only really has a big affect at idle. My digital aftermarket temp gauge shows idle temps around 227 at 45 deg. F. but then the fan kicks in and drops it down to 217 or so and the cycle repeats until I start moving again.

[Magdave]

It should not affect warranty but I would like to see the actual test data to support the claim. I use engine ice for two years and yes, it does drop the temperature as it allows the coolant to make better contact with the radiator so the air passing through picks up more heat. However, it actually raises the under tupperware temperatures a bit by being more efficient. The bike is happier but the rider may not be unfortunately. That being said now that I insulated tupperware and wrapped the pipes I feel no heat at all.

From what I cans see, the thermostat goes wide open around 195 on the freeway so it only really has a big affect at idle. My digital aftermarket temp gauge shows idle temps around 227 at 45 deg. F. but then the fan kicks in and drops it down to 217 or so and the cycle repeats until I start moving again.
I wasn't thinking about the fan presets so the best we will see is 217 at rest unless we could program the fan to run longer. Bummer

[SpyderAnn01]

I wonder if it works for hot flashes!:roflblack:

[cuznjohn]

my dealer told me that BRP is using a new type of coolant in their 4x4's due to heating issues, but they have not said to put it in the bikes that have heat problems to try it out

[Spyder Tony]

Water Wetter is what I used in the 2013 ST with some success. Can't speak as to this product, but would like to give it a try if the bike overheats this Summer. This will be the first summer since the 2013 recall campaign, so I'm not sure if the bike will run cooler or not. I am at the dealership as we speak looking at the 2014 side panels on the ST that were obviously changed to address heat...but the panels appear to be real expensive.

[Magdave]

Water Wetter is what I used in the 2013 ST with some success. Can't speak as to this product, but would like to give it a try if the bike overheats this Summer. This will be the first summer since the 2013 recall campaign, so I'm not sure if the bike will run cooler or not. I am at the dealership as we speak looking at the 2014 side panels on the ST that were obviously changed to address heat...but the panels appear to be real expensive.

And they should be supplied to 2013 owners free of cost IMHO. Maybe even a similar set up for the RT's

[bluestratos]

Are the 2013 overheating or hot to ride? I thought it was the latter.

[Magdave]

Are the 2013 overheating or hot to ride? I thought it was the latter.
Both I have had overtemp codes pop. The change in panels indicate BRP knows they have an issue they changed nothing else. The 13 riders were the ones who found out...the hard way.

[Cruzr Joe]

I wonder if it works for hot flashes!:roflblack:

No comment

Cruzr Joe

[SNOOPY]

No comment

Cruzr Joe


I was trying to think of something too. :roflblack:

[SNOOPY]

Water Wetter is what I used in the 2013 ST with some success. Can't speak as to this product, but would like to give it a try if the bike overheats this Summer. This will be the first summer since the 2013 recall campaign, so I'm not sure if the bike will run cooler or not. I am at the dealership as we speak looking at the 2014 side panels on the ST that were obviously changed to address heat...but the panels appear to be real expensive.


Do you actually know about how much for the necessary panels/connections?

[bscrive]

Who carries this antifreeze? I have to change my wife's coolant in her 09 GS this year and maybe I will put that in if I can find it. I go over to the US a lot so getting from a US retailer is not a problem.

[wyliec]

Who carries this antifreeze? I have to change my wife's coolant in her 09 GS this year and maybe I will put that in if I can find it. I go over to the US a lot so getting from a US retailer is not a problem.

If you go here and click on distributors:

http://www.liquidperformance.com

They list a Canadian store- Parts Canada- along with a number of US stores, and online stores.

If you're not familiar with the Parts Canada stores, you can check their locations here:

http://www.partscanada.com/locator

[cuznjohn]

some people were having problems with the radiator plugs breaking off, so remember to drain the bike from the hose

[Magdave]

Who carries this antifreeze? I have to change my wife's coolant in her 09 GS this year and maybe I will put that in if I can find it. I go over to the US a lot so getting from a US retailer is not a problem.

https://www.google.com/search?q=liquid+performance+anti+freeze&rls=com.microsoft:en-US&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=

[Magdave]

Do you actually know about how much for the necessary panels/connections?
IIRC ~$800 you have to buy 2 panels for each side.

Here is a post on the part#s

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?58351-New-Side-panels&highlight=2014+panel

~$179 for each panel
http://parts.spyder.brp.com/Index.aspx?s1=860qpmr55e6rqsck8ltjvh5ni6&catalog_id=0&language_id=1&siteid=1

[finless]

Hey Ron...... You and Scotty here get all my attention when I see you guys post even if you guys disagree...
So anything you post like this gets my consideration!

When it comes time to flush my coolant system I will consider this :)

Thanks,
Bob

[SNOOPY]

some people were having problems with the radiator plugs breaking off, so remember to drain the bike from the hose



Can you elaborate, haven't read about this?

[Magdave]

Can you elaborate, haven't read about this?
I have heard it before and the recommended way is to remove the lower hose.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?30422-My-Radiator-Broke&highlight=radiator+drain+plug

[SNOOPY]

IIRC ~$800 you have to buy 2 panels for each side.

Here is a post on the part#s

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?58351-New-Side-panels&highlight=2014+panel

~$179 for each panel
http://parts.spyder.brp.com/Index.aspx?s1=860qpmr55e6rqsck8ltjvh5ni6&catalog_id=0&language_id=1&siteid=1



These links don't go to specific parts. I've sesn people post these links before....they get you to the general area....and I appreciate that...but what exact part numbers do I need to make this work?

In the link it says four panels, but which four panels for a ST-S?

[Magdave]

These links don't go to specific parts. I've sesn people post these links before....they get you to the general area....and I appreciate that...but what exact part numbers do I need to make this work?

In the link it says four panels, but which four panels for a ST-S?

Read the first thread Lamont shows the one and the part numbers are mentioned later in it.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=76670&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1380208605 (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=76670&d=1380208605)

[SNOOPY]

Lamont only says part number 479 and 480.....everyone else mentions 4 parts?

And no one says if that is for an RT or an ST ?

Confusing :banghead:

[SNOOPY]

Read the first thread Lamont shows the one and the part numbers are mentioned later in it.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=76670&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1380208605 (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=76670&d=1380208605)



oops, just saw you're pic, that may help thanks!

[Magdave]

Lamont only says part number 479 and 480.....everyone else mentions 4 parts?

And no one says if that is for an RT or an ST ?

Confusing :banghead:

If you keep reading 422 and the opposite is needed too( I think) You will have to drill down on the parts link I gave you the below is for STL check Body and acc. Best bet is to go to a dealer.

http://parts.spyder.brp.com/cgi-bin/ImgServ.exe/convert?ilFN=E:\\EmpartWeb\\data\\1s\\06\Y1404\31Y 1404.tif&ilSC=15&ilIV=0&ilBR=0&ilIF=P&ilRE=8

[SNOOPY]

dealer? :yikes:



LOL


.

[SNOOPY]

If you keep reading 422 and the opposite is needed too( I think) You will have to drill down on the parts link I gave you the below is for STL check Body and acc. Best bet is to go to a dealer.

http://parts.spyder.brp.com/cgi-bin/ImgServ.exe/convert?ilFN=E:\\EmpartWeb\\data\\1s\\06\Y1404\31Y 1404.tif&ilSC=15&ilIV=0&ilBR=0&ilIF=P&ilRE=8



Do we know that these parts will actually bolt in place...or just guessing????



.

[Magdave]

dealer? :yikes:



LOL


.

That will make you hair stand up?:D Look at all those parts I can't tell heads or tails. Glad the RT is simpler :roflblack:

[BajaRon]

I've done more looking at this product and it appears to be quite viable.

There is mention that the thermostat turns the fan on at about 225 and off at about 215 degrees. The thing is, some Spyders, in hot weather, continue to get hotter even with the fan running.

Some have put a switch in line so they can turn their fan on manually. If you're sitting in stop and go traffic on a hot day, why wait for the engine to get to 225 degrees?

Of course, a down side to this would be drawing that much current with the engine at idle you're running a negative charging factor. If you do this a lot you'd need to put a volt meter in the system to be sure you're not running the system below 12 volts.

Bottom line is, I like the looks of this product. If it really runs that much cooler than Engine Ice and Redline, that could be a real plus. Not only for those with heating issues but for anyone that wants a better cooling system. I'd say the very worst that you would see is no change at all.

I have not been able to confirm that it is Silicate free. But I'm almost positive that it will be since virtually all motorcycles, and many automobiles, now require silicate free antifreeze.

Note; Definitely pull the lower radiator hose. DO NOT mess with the drain plug. You'll be sorry.... :(

[Magdave]

Note; Definitely pull the lower radiator hose. DO NOT mess with the drain plug. You'll be sorry.... :(

:agree: And the product does look very interesting I think it will run cooler on the highway but not sure it will help much in stop and go traffic. If we had the 2014 alternator charge would not be an issue. I just do not get why BRP would use a drain plug that is so substandard and prevents us from doing what is suggested for a fluid change without ruining the radiator. I hope everyone now believes me when I ( and Cuznjohn) said pull the hose to drain it. :thumbup: I am not totally stupid :roflblack: Use to be (in the Corvette world) a place to put a bi metallic switch in the block that would turn the fan on/off at a lower temp. Too bad the same is not true on the Rotax. Since I have a cig plug in my dash I do have a volt meter that plugs into it so I may be up for a try at doing this next summer.

[BajaRon]

:agree: And the product does look very interesting I think it will run cooler on the highway but not sure it will help much in stop and go traffic.

Any increase in heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator fins will help in every situation except where there is no air moving through the radiator. But there is more to it than that. You will also get a better heat transfer from the hot metal engine parts to the coolant. Typical antifreeze inhibits heat transfer at both ends of the cooling process.


If we had the 2014 alternator charge would not be an issue.

Probably true. But you're only going to have issues with the current charging system in extreme cases as it is. I just mentioned it so people would be aware of the possibility.


I just do not get why BRP would use a drain plug that is so substandard and prevents us from doing what is suggested for a fluid change without ruining the radiator.

It is possible that you can pull your drain plug without creating a problem. But you won't know until it's too late and it is an unnecessary risk. Even if the drain plug were not a potential disaster, the lower hose is a better option. You get a much better flow out of the hose giving you a better flush.

My question is, why doesn't BRP simply eliminate the drain plug and change the manual to say 'Disconnect the lower drain hose'.


I hope everyone now believes me when I ( and Cuznjohn) said pull the hose to drain it. :thumbup:

I think people believed both of you. Your advise certainly does not need my endorsement to be believed... :thumbup:


Use to be (in the Corvette world) a place to put a bi metallic switch in the block that would turn the fan on/off at a lower temp. Too bad the same is not true on the Rotax.

There are plenty of aftermarket offerings that would do the job. This is an adjustable temperature (from 150-240), radiator probe kit. (About $45.00). My suggestion would be to have the unit shut off at 200~205 degrees. The 'On/Off' interval us usually fixed at 10~15 degrees spread. You want to keep the lower end somewhat above full flow on the thermostat. Setting it lower will do you no good and simply wear out your fans and draw needless current. The Spyder is designed to run at temperatures over 200 degrees without a problem.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/der-16759_w.jpg


Since I have a cig plug in my dash I do have a volt meter that plugs into it so I may be up for a try at doing this next summer.

Let us know how it goes.

[Bob Denman]

I wonder if it works for hot flashes!:roflblack:
Ann,
Chocolate and rum seem to help... and tell Joe to stay out in the garage! :shocked:


...LOTS of Rum...:gaah:

[Cruzr Joe]

Dogs can't read directions anyway.

Cruzr Joe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[SNOOPY]

Dogs can't read directions anyway.

Cruzr Joe


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD



Good point. :banghead:

[Bob Denman]

Bill
Go to a delaer that has a 2014 ST in the showroom...
Take careful notes of how those parts hook together...
It should be so easy; that a DAWG could do it! :D :2thumbs:
And that's no Bull!

[docdoru]

Since I have a cig plug in my dash I do have a volt meter that plugs into it so I may be up for a try at doing this next summer.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Digit-Red-LED-Waterproof-Digital-Voltmeter-DC15-120V-for-Motorcycle-/390722332976?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5af8dda930 :doorag:

[SNOOPY]

Bill
Go to a delaer that has a 2014 ST in the showroom...
Take careful notes of how those parts hook together...
It should be so easy; that a DAWG could do it! :D :2thumbs:
And that's no Bull!


In Virginia? :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:


.

[Bob Denman]

So go to Maryland... Delaware... North Carolina... Shoot; you could even find a dealer in Pennsylvania if you were in a bit of a mood to travel! :thumbup:

[3 Wheel Addict]

Are the 2013 overheating or hot to ride? I thought it was the latter.

Exactly, my bike is not overheating as far as engine temp goes, but the heat under the plastic is just unreal. Was just checking with my dealer on Friday to see if they have heard about a fix coming down the pike. While they have not heard of a fix they did finally fess up that they have several more bikes out with similar complaints, they are also perplexed as to why some and not others... :dontknow:

[SNOOPY]

So go to Maryland... Delaware... North Carolina... Shoot; you could even find a dealer in Pennsylvania if you were in a bit of a mood to travel! :thumbup:


Im not allowed to leave the city w my ankle bracelet. :shocked:

[MikeinGA]

I am currently running a 70/30 mix with Water Wetter. It dropped me some but I'm always looking for better. I don't see any downside at this point.

Water Wetter works for me here in the N.E. Georgia mountains year round. You must be careful that in cooler to cold temps. that the engine does not run to cool, everything has it's operating temp. If you go lower than that it can cause engine problems and other problems with the engine computer mapping. That's IMHO.


Mike

[Marker]

Have you tried this? Though I have not had heating issues I may give it a run after a bit more research. The chart does not compare this product to standard anti-freeze/coolant. But you'd assume it would be higher than any of the tested products. Then again, you know what ASSUME(ing) will get you!

An important item that is always a question with high performance coolant products is boil-over and freeze protection. This one has very good numbers in that respect also.



Note: Boiling point protection up to 260°F (126.6°C); freezing point protection down to -30°F (-34°C).

I am not promoting or even recommending this product because I have not tried it myself. But it does look very interesting.

http://s7d2.scene7.com/is/image/Motosport/LIQPERF-COOL-02_is?$NewPDP2$ http://www.liquidperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/dynotest_combined4-600x379.jpg

Living in the Great White North, I would be concerned with the freeze protection rating .

[Bob Denman]

Im not allowed to leave the city w my ankle bracelet. :shocked:
That "invisible fence" has you in it's clutches?? :D

[SNOOPY]

:roflblack:

[Bob Ledford]

I wonder if it works for hot flashes!:roflblack:

Ann

if find a cure for hot flash's let us know my significant other has been bugged since 1990!!!!

[SNOOPY]

Maybe some muscle will help the hot flashes?


http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa13/ad_skies/muscledog.jpg (http://media.photobucket.com/user/ad_skies/media/muscledog.jpg.html)




lol