Enclosed trailer?

[lionking]

Thinking of geting a Sure-trac, 7x10. I also am thinking of the Superclamp sys. Any one have any thoughts? The trailer is 7x10 v nose with a ramp door. I have a RT limited 2013 in white.:dontknow:

[R30SHIRE]

Can't give you any thoughts on the trailer but I can say that the superclamp is perfect when installed properly. I've trailered my RT several times and it stays put using the superclamp.

[Cavman]

I would recommend you get a trailer that is a light color to keep the internal temps down in warmer weather.
Also, if you ever plan to sleep in there you wouldn't want to get cooked out from the heat.

[fispyder]

I have a 7/14 I closed trailer I store :ani29: in it when not riding. It is insulated, the v nose has cabnits storage, if I had it to do over I would buy a 16' for the extra space

[Bob Denman]

Hi Leo!
I'd personally want just a little bit more room around the bike... Why not see how much difference there is, in taking a 12' trailer home with you? Is the Sure-Trac a tandem axle? That adds cost; but it can make for an easier towing rig! :thumbup:

[srwilli]

I just purchased a 7x16 tandem from ingramsail. The wife has back issues and cannot ride long distances. If the Knee replacement surgery goes well the first use will be to go to Durango this year. I am also planning a ride from Macon to Key West with friends and will trailer the Spyder to GA. I haven't towed/backed a trailer in 4-5 years so definitely need practice backing. 😃😃


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[MarkLawson]

Hi Leo!
I'd personally want just a little bit more room around the bike... Why not see how much difference there is, in taking a 12' trailer home with you? Is the Sure-Trac a tandem axle? That adds cost; but it can make for an easier towing rig! :thumbup:

I agree. It can be very difficult loading and securing in a trailer with so little extra space. The Superclamp system could resolve that issue, but you might find the extra space useful.

[NancysToy]

I'll toss one in on the other side of the scale. I have a 7x12 V-nose, single axle, and I am very happy with it. There is more than enough length. Trailers have no standards in regards to how they are measured, so check the actual inside dimensions to be sure the 7x10 will do what you want. My V-nose is measured for length at the rectangular section, but others may indicate the length to the front of the v-nose. In that case a 7x10 would be really, really tight, even when loaded backwards. Also be sure to measure the clear door opening (inside the cables). All 7 foot trailers are not created equal. If you don't mind bending over, a low-boy or standard trailer will do, but if you intend to camp in the trailer or if you are tall, an extra-tall unit might be better. Lots of choices...take your time and find one you will be happy with.

[Bob Denman]

...take your time and find one you will be happy with.
:agree: You can't purchase the wrong one fast enough; to make it work right for you! :shocked: :thumbup:

[Cleg]

:gaah:So may to choose from....I selected a Proline 7x12 with 3' Vee nose. Had to get it in New Hampshire, but am very please with what I have. Check them out at www.NHTrailer.com...I'm not affiliated, just a happy customer...:bowdown::ohyea:

[LarBear4442]

I've had several enclosed trailers in the past, this time I went with an 7 x 16 tandem axle with v-nose and am very happy I did. Keep in mind you need room to access certain areas around your Spyder and the tandem axle is much more stable when loading and unloading. I also mounted a Solar Battery Tender on the roof and works very well.

[Bob Denman]

Solar Battery Tender???
A little bit of information about that would be MOST interesting... :D

[bruiser]

Yeah, I'd like info on that too. I have a 8X20 tandem axle. But then, I'm hauling two RTS'.

[R FUN]

I have a 7ft 11in. inside by 12 ft. tandem and would not want anything smaller. It is easy to tie down and gives you plenty of storage space and room to hang your riding gear etc. On the other hand ,too big it is harder to park and manover around plus a lot more weight. Mine is also a V-nose which gives you the extra space and very little extra weight.

[hut1]

Solar Battery Tender???
A little bit of information about that would be MOST interesting... :D

Here you go Bob, http://batterytender.com/products/solar.html

[Frank G]

Yeah, I'd like info on that too. I have a 8X20 tandem axle. But then, I'm hauling two RTS'.

With an 8ft wide are the wheels under the trailer?... increasing the loading angle of the ramp,... scraping the "frunk" when loading and unloading? When trailer looking my concerns are door width and ramp angle.

Just asking to see how your 8 x 20 is working out for you.

Thanks

[Biosafena]

I have a tri-axle toyhauler and the angle of the ramp is always something I have to look at before loading/unloading. I back my RT Ltd. into the trailer and my issues have been with the nose digging into the ground when coming out of the trailer or the exhaust system bottoming out where the hinged edge of he ramp door meets the trailer. If you look at the exhaust system you will see two (2) pieces of round stock that are welded to the system to support it. These are the lowest points on my bike and will scrape or catch if the ramp angle is too steep. I took a grinder to these pieces of round stock and beveled them so the blunt end can't catch and tear things up. If I find myself in a situation where I can't change the ramp angle based on the slope of the ground, I carry a few pieces of 2x10 with me and use these to get things into the proper plane. I will even lay a digital level on the ramp to check the 81011angle if it looks too steep, but for the life of me I can't remember what he maximum angle was. Something like 16 degrees sticks in my mind, but don't hold me to it.


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[lionking]

The reasoning behind the size (7x10 V nose x6.5 height) is that I'm it with a Ford Escape, 2013, tow weight is 3500#. Single axel keeps down the weight of trailer and I can man handle it in the yard. I have a Dodge 2014 mini van but that rated at 3500# tow.

[NancysToy]

The reasoning behind the size (7x10 V nose x6.5 height) is that I'm it with a Ford Escape, 2013, tow weight is 3500#. Single axel keeps down the weight of trailer and I can man handle it in the yard. I have a Dodge 2014 mini van but that rated at 3500# tow.

Sounds like you are on the right track. That is one of the reasons I have a 7x12 v-nose. Mine is all aluminum R&R), and you may wish to consider that option if weight is a concern. The steel framed units weigh more.

[bzbaeren]

I can't address the closed trailer issue because I have an open trailer and use it for other things but I do have the super clamp and think it is great. It makes loading, securing and traveling with peace of mind simple and some say I am simple.;)

[Tango]

The reasoning behind the size (7x10 V nose x6.5 height) is that I'm it with a Ford Escape, 2013, tow weight is 3500#. Single axel keeps down the weight of trailer and I can man handle it in the yard. I have a Dodge 2014 mini van but that rated at 3500# tow.

I have a 2014 Escape, and I am looking to tow with it also. Tough to figure what to buy isn't it? :banghead: Tom :trike:

[draboo]

We have a 8.5X16 enclosed that we converted into a poormans toy hauler. We towed it from WA to MI and back 2 years ago with the RT and a Sportster inside. I wired it with two overhead lights and three outlets.We also had a cheap sliding window installed in it. When we came to a campground, out came the vehicles,plug in the xtension cord, blew up the bed, and spent the night. Anyone attempting to do this and using it to sleep in take note from my personal experience: INSULATE THE WHOLE DAMN THING WITH A GOOD QUALITY INSULATION AND BUY THE LARGEST PORTABLE FLOOR AIR CONDITION UNIT YOU CAN FIND/AFFORD!! I CANNOT STRESS THE IMPORTANCE OF THIS ENOUGH!

It was so hot in Boise, you couldnt touch the inside of the roof. (before insulating) The AC unit did absolutley no good against the heat.

As far as the ramp goes, I found with the RT that if you go very slow up or down the ramp, you will not bottom out. Or, if you want to make sure, just crank up the tongue with the tongue jack. I never cranked it up, but I know it will aleviate bottoming out. Not sure if airing up the rear shock would help or not. Never tried it.

We have since graduated to a '92 25 foot Chev chassis motorhome, which I have dubbed "IRV, the FLOATING BRICK" and we tow our gw/hack rig behind on a flatbed trailer. We have found vacationing Nirvana with IRV!:D

[Dragonrider]

I have a 7.5x12x7 single axel with brakes - also converted to a cheap toyhauler - hauled the RTS to Yellowstone and back, and numerous other trips. I have a storage box & shelves in the front, and it is fully insulated - all custom ordered, with lights, and two rows of EZ Track. It's a snap to load, strap in, and go. Total loaded weight is 2,780# - camping gear included. The extra height makes using the trailer for habitation possible, and adds length to the ramp, making loading a non-issue. Mine is NOT a "V" nose, and has a 40sf frontal area. I pull it with a F150, and you don't feel it at all. You can pull it with your Ford, provided you have the bigger motor...

I now use the trailer for my ATVs, camping, and a nice storage locker....

[MrLooney]

If you can afford the longer and wider trailer, you will be more pleased with it over all. It will also be more versatile for many other uses besides your Spyder's Home.

Remember the longer the trailer the easier it is to tow and more importantly the easier it is to back up!!
Short trailers Jack-Knife easily.

[bruiser]

With an 8ft wide are the wheels under the trailer?... increasing the loading angle of the ramp,... scraping the "frunk" when loading and unloading? When trailer looking my concerns are door width and ramp angle.

Just asking to see how your 8 x 20 is working out for you.

Thanks


Frank, you do need to make sure the door is 7 foot. I have no problems loading the Spyders. I have added a smaller fold down ramp to the stock door for easier loading. The wheels are not completely under the trailer, so there is plenty of room inside. I also raise the front of the trailer a bit with the jack to give a little room for the underside of the Spyder to clear the hinge area.

[NancysToy]

Frank, you do need to make sure the door is 7 foot. I have no problems loading the Spyders. I have added a smaller fold down ramp to the stock door for easier loading. The wheels are not completely under the trailer, so there is plenty of room inside. I also raise the front of the trailer a bit with the jack to give a little room for the underside of the Spyder to clear the hinge area.

A Spyder will load just fine with a door width of less than 7 feet. Most 7 foot trailers are measured between the axle backing plates, so the box is less, the door even less, and the width between the door cables smaller still. Anything between the cables of 66 inches or more should work fine, and give a couple of spare inches on each side to maneuver. I cover the cables with split pool noodles, to provide some protection just in case.