Shock adjustment

[bjt]

When dltang and I got our Spyders from the dealership, they left the shocks adjusted at 3 front and rear and told us that those were the average settings. Over the last 4 months that I've been riding it and reading others comments about the shock settings, I've come to realize that those settings were probably just a bit too soft for me and how my Spyder is equipped. Being I weigh 240, have the Givi saddlebags installed and will be loading up for a long weekend ride, I felt I should get a higher setting for the rear shock.

Adjusting the rear was fairly easy as long as you have the right tools. I used a floor jack towards the rear of the Spyder frame to get the weight off the swingarm. Then I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 8" extension to put into the square adjusting plate hole to turn up the spring setting. I turned it one notch with just the ratchet handle but that was a slight struggle so I got a section of some copper tubing to put over the ratchet handle to give me a bit more leverage. With the tubing, it was easy. I cranked it up to the max setting on the rear, I believe that is 7.

By that time, dltang came back in from running a few errands and I convinced her to try a higher setting on her rear shock since she will be loading up her Spyder with luggage also. She gave me the okay for 1 notch higher so I set hers at 4.

As I was preparing to adjust her rear shock, she told me that she wanted the fronts set one higher too. I kind of complained about that as I have read a few posts that said the fronts were harder to adjust than the rear and I just didn't want to hassle with them. However, I remembered reading a post from someone who adjusted his fronts higher. That eliminated some of his Spyders lean in the corners and I didn't really like how much my Spyder seemed to lean in the corners. I decided to give it a try.

I used the floor jack again but positioned it towards the front of the Spyder frame to get some of the weight off of the frontend. I pulled out the spanner wrench that BRP provides, looked at the short handle and thought that I would try it without a pipe first just to see how hard it was. I was expecting to not be able to budge the shock adjuster. I was wrong. It easily turned. I gave both dltang's and my front shocks 1 notch higher setting.

We then went out on a 5 - 10 mile test ride. I noticed the improvement in the ride almost immediately. The ride was a little stiffer which I definitely enjoyed. Not so much give in the rear end and less body roll in the turns. I'll give the shock adjustment two thumbs up in ease of completion and in ride feel improvement. :2thumbs:

[LittleJohn]

When dltang and I got our Spyders from the dealership, they left the shocks adjusted at 3 front and rear and told us that those were the average settings. Over the last 4 months that I've been riding it and reading others comments about the shock settings, I've come to realize that those settings were probably just a bit too soft for me and how my Spyder is equipped. Being I weigh 240, have the Givi saddlebags installed and will be loading up for a long weekend ride, I felt I should get a higher setting for the rear shock.

Adjusting the rear was fairly easy as long as you have the right tools. I used a floor jack towards the rear of the Spyder frame to get the weight off the swingarm. Then I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 8" extension to put into the square adjusting plate hole to turn up the spring setting. I turned it one notch with just the ratchet handle but that was a slight struggle so I got a section of some copper tubing to put over the ratchet handle to give me a bit more leverage. With the tubing, it was easy. I cranked it up to the max setting on the rear, I believe that is 7.

By that time, dltang came back in from running a few errands and I convinced her to try a higher setting on her rear shock since she will be loading up her Spyder with luggage also. She gave me the okay for 1 notch higher so I set hers at 4.

As I was preparing to adjust her rear shock, she told me that she wanted the fronts set one higher too. I kind of complained about that as I have read a few posts that said the fronts were harder to adjust than the rear and I just didn't want to hassle with them. However, I remembered reading a post from someone who adjusted his fronts higher. That eliminated some of his Spyders lean in the corners and I didn't really like how much my Spyder seemed to lean in the corners. I decided to give it a try.

I used the floor jack again but positioned it towards the front of the Spyder frame to get some of the weight off of the frontend. I pulled out the spanner wrench that BRP provides, looked at the short handle and thought that I would try it without a pipe first just to see how hard it was. I was expecting to not be able to budge the shock adjuster. I was wrong. It easily turned. I gave both dltang's and my front shocks 1 notch higher setting.

We then went out on a 5 - 10 mile test ride. I noticed the improvement in the ride almost immediately. The ride was a little stiffer which I definitely enjoyed. Not so much give in the rear end and less body roll in the turns. I'll give the shock adjustment two thumbs up in ease of completion and in ride feel improvement. :2thumbs:

I agree, I adjusted my fronts to 4 and rode awhile, then bumped up to five and am very pleased with what Im getting now. I may tweak the back a notch or two soon

[BRPjunkie]

I agree. 4 seems to be very good for solo rider on the front, regardless of rider weight. I found that you don't need to jack the front up if you use a 12" piece of 3/4" copper pipe over the spanner handle and squirt a little WD-40 on the shocks before you turn them. No resistance at all.

[jeuchler]

When dltang and I got our Spyders from the dealership, they left the shocks adjusted at 3 front and rear and told us that those were the average settings. Over the last 4 months that I've been riding it and reading others comments about the shock settings, I've come to realize that those settings were probably just a bit too soft for me and how my Spyder is equipped. Being I weigh 240, have the Givi saddlebags installed and will be loading up for a long weekend ride, I felt I should get a higher setting for the rear shock.

Adjusting the rear was fairly easy as long as you have the right tools. I used a floor jack towards the rear of the Spyder frame to get the weight off the swingarm. Then I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 8" extension to put into the square adjusting plate hole to turn up the spring setting. I turned it one notch with just the ratchet handle but that was a slight struggle so I got a section of some copper tubing to put over the ratchet handle to give me a bit more leverage. With the tubing, it was easy. I cranked it up to the max setting on the rear, I believe that is 7.

By that time, dltang came back in from running a few errands and I convinced her to try a higher setting on her rear shock since she will be loading up her Spyder with luggage also. She gave me the okay for 1 notch higher so I set hers at 4.

As I was preparing to adjust her rear shock, she told me that she wanted the fronts set one higher too. I kind of complained about that as I have read a few posts that said the fronts were harder to adjust than the rear and I just didn't want to hassle with them. However, I remembered reading a post from someone who adjusted his fronts higher. That eliminated some of his Spyders lean in the corners and I didn't really like how much my Spyder seemed to lean in the corners. I decided to give it a try.

I used the floor jack again but positioned it towards the front of the Spyder frame to get some of the weight off of the frontend. I pulled out the spanner wrench that BRP provides, looked at the short handle and thought that I would try it without a pipe first just to see how hard it was. I was expecting to not be able to budge the shock adjuster. I was wrong. It easily turned. I gave both dltang's and my front shocks 1 notch higher setting.

We then went out on a 5 - 10 mile test ride. I noticed the improvement in the ride almost immediately. The ride was a little stiffer which I definitely enjoyed. Not so much give in the rear end and less body roll in the turns. I'll give the shock adjustment two thumbs up in ease of completion and in ride feel improvement. :2thumbs:

Geez, Brian, I was waiting for a question in your post, but instead you gave another nice set of directions! :thumbup:

I do miss the gushy ride sometimes on a straightaway section of a bad road, but the handling is so much better now. Simple physics, eh?!

I'll just add my :agree: to you, LittleJohn and BRPjunkie!

[ima rider]

After I read about you all cranking up the front shock adjusters. I put mine all the to 5, what a huge difference in handling. I would highly recommend doing this. I didn't change the back one. I would suggest jacking the front tires off the ground or you can,t budge the adjuster. thx for the idea. ( oh I also did give a squirt of WD-40, it helps)

[BRPjunkie]

If you get a 12" piece of 3/4" copper pipe it fits over the end of the shoch wrench and with a squirt of WD-40, you can easily adjust the front shocks without jacking the front up. Just enough leverage for an easy turn with very little effort.

[Texmac1011]

Where do I postion the jack to raise the rear, but keep the front on the ground? I had my dealer crank the rear shock up, but it is too much. My wife noticed a considerable, unpleasant difference.

Thanks,
Dennis

[boborgera]

If you get a 12" piece of 3/4" copper pipe it fits over the end of the shoch wrench and with a squirt of WD-40, you can easily adjust the front shocks without jacking the front up. Just enough leverage for an easy turn with very little effort.


A few cams have broken with out jacking the front end.
It's not the lack of leverage, it's the cheap medal there made from.:(

[Texmac1011]

I adjusted the rear shock with no problems. Thanks for the great instructions!