Power Steering issue in the cold

[Bryk]

For the last few weeks when riding to work in 40 degrees or less outside, I've noticed my power steering isn't working as it normally does. It seems to just not activate which to be frank is quite scary, sometimes it is intermittent, and sometimes not at all. This situation quite dangerously obviously because you need it the most when turning and that is when I can't rely on it.

I called my local dealer that I bought it from and was told to try to keep it on a battery tender as the power steering is the first item to get power cut to it when battery is low.

Anyone else encounter this issue? It seems 100% directly related to the temperature as when I ride in the morning in the cold I run into it, then when it is warmer in afternoon it doesn't have the issue anymore.


Also I noticed twice this summer, two days in a row when it was 90 degrees or higher here, that my check engine light was on and wouldn't turn off (in the afternoon at the heat of the day), then the next morning back to normal.

Are these extreme behaviors common for spyders, or am I just an unlucky one?

[MotownCruiser]

I rode into work the past two days and its been below 30 degrees for the ride in. Steering is a tad stiff initially, but loosens up within the first 1/4 mile.

[Bryk]

I rode into work the past two days and its been below 30 degrees for the ride in. Steering is a tad stiff initially, but loosens up within the first 1/4 mile.

20 minute ride into work still happening.

[DrewNJ]

First check the battery connections on the battery itself. The DPS unit draws a lot of power. Even if the wires feel tight, give the bolts a little snug. I had the same thing happen to mine the first week I owned it. Snugged the bolts at the battery and haven't had an issue since.


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[Bryk]

First check the battery connections on the battery itself. The DPS unit draws a lot of power. Even if the wires feel tight, give the bolts a little snug. I had the same thing happen to mine the first week I owned it. Snugged the bolts at the battery and haven't had an issue since.


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I'll go check, it may have started happening shortly after I attached the battery tender connector, maybe I didn't tighten it enough.

[3 Wheel Addict]

Honestly why is it the first thing the dealer asks is if you had a battery tender on it? Is BRP in cohoots with battery tender? When I had issues with my 13 RT/S spitting out crazy random codes the first thing the dealer ask was if I had a battery tender on it! That's nut because I had been riding for more than an hour. I would think if a weak battery was the issue it would also cause starting/cranking problems. Loose connections could cause all sorts of problems.

[Magdave]

Honestly why is it the first thing the dealer asks is if you had a battery tender on it? Is BRP in cohoots with battery tender? When I had issues with my 13 RT/S spitting out crazy random codes the first thing the dealer ask was if I had a battery tender on it! That's nut because I had been riding for more than an hour. I would think if a weak battery was the issue it would also cause starting/cranking problems. Loose connections could cause all sorts of problems.

First off not all tenders are the same. Some will tell you not to use them on AGM batteries ( My RT has one). The Battery tender Jr. is $23 bucks on Amazon cheap enough. And there are a lot of different ways to connect them. I have a cig lighter plug in place of one of my RT blanks. Battery Tender makes an adapter to plug into it( under $2 and mine is wired to the jumper points and in effect straight to the battery).

Second there is parasitic draw even with the key off from some of the electronics on the bike. If you don't plan on riding for more than 2 weeks it is recommended to put a tender on it. Same as my Corvettes. It IS a small battery. Choices are tender or remove it. Obviously second choice is not desirable. By the way Battery Tender is a description as well as a brand name. Any AGM compatible tenders will work.

Third since the stator is kinda weak it takes a long ride to recharge the battery if it has been jumped to start. The alternator in the '14 is a big improvement.

You can always wing it and hope for the best but a low battery on and modern vehicle will cause all kinds of computer malfunctions. They are looking for over 12V and are not forgiving. A loose connection works like a resistor and causes a voltage drop.

It seems to be a quality product. You could try a Harbor Freight one but good luck with that.:thumbup:

[Bryk]

First off not all tenders are the same. Some will tell you not to use them on AGM batteries ( My RT has one). The Battery tender Jr. is $23 bucks on Amazon cheap enough. And there are a lot of different ways to connect them. I have a cig lighter plug in place of one of my RT blanks. Battery Tender makes an adapter to plug into it( under $2 and mine is wired to the jumper points and in effect straight to the battery).

Second there is parasitic draw even with the key off from some of the electronics on the bike. If you don't plan on riding for more than 2 weeks it is recommended to put a tender on it. Same as my Corvettes. It IS a small battery. Choices are tender or remove it. Obviously second choice is not desirable. By the way Battery Tender is a description as well as a brand name. Any AGM compatible tenders will work.

Third since the stator is kinda weak it takes a long ride to recharge the battery if it has been jumped to start. The alternator in the '14 is a big improvement.

You can always wing it and hope for the best but a low battery on and modern vehicle will cause all kinds of computer malfunctions. They are looking for over 12V and are not forgiving. A loose connection works like a resistor and causes a voltage drop.

It seems to be a quality product. You could try a Harbor Freight one but good luck with that.:thumbup:


Well I have a Battery Tender Jr on it, I just went out and switched the tender's connectors to the screw side(They weren't loose), putting the bikes connectors to the battery on the battery side. It is a bit warmer and seemed a bit better on a short ride to the bank, only acted up a tiny bit when I put it in Reverse when I got back to the parking lot. I do tend to only take 20 minute rides to work, and if that isn't going to keep the battery charged, then I can charge it on my tender when I get home. I do find it quite sad though that it can't maintain itself(with that kind of ride) if that is indeed the issue.
(I haven't been plugging in the tender since my plan was to only plug it in if I didn't plan on riding it for a bit, so it would practically be ready to go.

The other item the dealer mentioned is if I keep it in a heated garage. Wow I keep it in an unheated shed, if that isn't babying it enough, just wow quite disappointing.

[Magdave]

Well I have a Battery Tender Jr on it, I just went out and switched the tender's connectors to the screw side(They weren't loose), putting the bikes connectors to the battery on the battery side. It is a bit warmer and seemed a bit better on a short ride to the bank, only acted up a tiny bit when I put it in Reverse when I got back to the parking lot. I do tend to only take 20 minute rides to work, and if that isn't going to keep the battery charged, then I can charge it on my tender when I get home. I do find it quite sad though that it can't maintain itself(with that kind of ride) if that is indeed the issue.
(I haven't been plugging in the tender since my plan was to only plug it in if I didn't plan on riding it for a bit, so it would practically be ready to go.

The other item the dealer mentioned is if I keep it in a heated garage. Wow I keep it in an unheated shed, if that isn't babying it enough, just wow quite disappointing.

Another thought is batteries can go bad at any time. What are the LEDs on the BT showing? Does it ever get to green (float fully charged) That is the indicator that I would be looking for to make sure the battery is good. You can check a battery with a meter and it should be `at least 12.5V fully charged ( low end ) anything 12.4 and below is not good.

http://www.batterystuff.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-your-battery-is-bad.html

[DrewNJ]

Well I have a Battery Tender Jr on it, I just went out and switched the tender's connectors to the screw side(They weren't loose), putting the bikes connectors to the battery on the battery side. It is a bit warmer and seemed a bit better on a short ride to the bank, only acted up a tiny bit when I put it in Reverse when I got back to the parking lot. I do tend to only take 20 minute rides to work, and if that isn't going to keep the battery charged, then I can charge it on my tender when I get home. I do find it quite sad though that it can't maintain itself(with that kind of ride) if that is indeed the issue.
(I haven't been plugging in the tender since my plan was to only plug it in if I didn't plan on riding it for a bit, so it would practically be ready to go.

The other item the dealer mentioned is if I keep it in a heated garage. Wow I keep it in an unheated shed, if that isn't babying it enough, just wow quite disappointing.

You've got something else going on. I can leave mine for a long period of time and never have charging issues. My good friend doesn't even use a tender on his 11' and has had no issues even sitting all winter with only a ride here and there.


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