Air pressures when running car tires on an RT

[ElZorroRides]

This may have been asked already but I'd like to know when switching to the Bridgestone Potenza's up front and the Kuhmo in the back should I be running the 18 Frnt and 28 Rear air pressures like I have been with the stock tires? :dontknow:

Thanks for the replies in advance.

[ARtraveler]

I am guessing that the recommended pressures on the installed tires should be the starting place. If it affects the handling of the :spyder2:, then further experimentation is recommended. There are quite a few out there now that are using non-recommended tires on the :ani29:'s without problems.

[Silvervette05]

You should not have different tires (models) frt or rear or different makes frt or rear on your machine, they should be the same brand and model. Size. should be what BRP puts on your machine when new.

[Pandy]

I'm running the Kuhmo in the back and after some trial and error, I settled on 32psi for handling and comfort. Increased pressure helped with the trailer as well. And after >7500 miles, this tire is wearing like iron! Patrick

[ElZorroRides]

You should not have different tires (models) frt or rear or different makes frt or rear on your machine, they should be the same brand and model. Size. should be what BRP puts on your machine when new.

Thanks for your opinion but there are countless threads on here from people who have done exactly what I'm about to do and have run thousands of mile with zero issues and instead have been thrilled with the results and overall improvements to the ride in both comfort and safety. Not putting other brands of tires onto your bike just because BRP chooses to use the (IMO) crap KENDAS on these machines is like saying you should not run any other tire on your FORD because FORD uses brand X on their cars from the factory. I reality, a great percentage of people never go back to the OEM tire on their cars for a variety of reasons from price to performance to availability and so on. Beside, if the OEM tires were the only ones allowed to be on your bike/car etc. or if say you wanted to use a different spark plug but they said you could only use the ones they used then they would have to provide them for free.

The fact that BRP uses KENDA tires on these machines I doubt has anything to do with anything other than they (KENDA) was the low bidder for the job of providing tires to the company. Oh sure they had to meet some minimum standard and I'm sure they did with the word MINIMUM being met to the utmost degree. Still, I wager that they are garbage and that there are plenty of far better alternatives available. It's also the reason so many here have switched to other brands of tire and at more expense to get a better performing piece of equipment installed on there machines.

I have chosen to go that route after reading a bunch of threads here about how happy all these others have been by making the switch. For those that have chosen to stay with the OEM tires, that's fine too if that's what you want. Hey it's your machine and your choice.

I've already made my decision. Now I'm looking for some answers from those that have already made this same decision and can answer my original question. I mean no disrespect to anyone here. Though I appreciate the opinions of others, I just want the answers I'm looking for.

[rabtech]

Falken 920. I run 26 PSI in it. No bulge, no problems. Very firm sidewall.

[Pandy]

You should not have different tires (models) frt or rear or different makes frt or rear on your machine, they should be the same brand and model. Size. should be what BRP puts on your machine when new.

Why?

[Magdave]

My research tells me a higher pressure is needed on the rear 35-40psi. Can't say on the front. As for the person who said you should run the same tires front and rear it can't be done no one I know makes that set. I have run different sets on cages as long as you keep them paired and never had any issue this includes my Corvette. It ran and handles just as well with a set of Kuhmos on the rear and Goodyear's on the front. That is a urban legend made by tire makers so you will buy 4 of their tires IMHO.

[SpyRyd]

You should not have different tires (models) frt or rear or different makes frt or rear on your machine, they should be the same brand and model. Size. should be what BRP puts on your machine when new.

Why? Many of us have installed different makes/models of tires (fronts the same, but not same as rear) on our Spyders with no issues. Some of us have even gone with different sizes from what BRP originally installed, and again, with no issues.

[ThreeWheels]

Very interested in this thread, I'm planning the same Kuhmo this Saturday.

One vote for 32 PSI.
Any others ?
Should I be using 80% nitrogen or the 100% nitrogen (says he while wearing a smirking instigator look)

[CyncySpyder]

If an owner chooses to go a different route, then that is their choice & by doing so, they also have to chance the risks involved in said decision. What risks? Here's what the 2014 Owners Manual has to say about this:

The tires have been specifically designedfor the Spyder roadster. Useonly the BRP recommended tires,which can be ordered only from anauthorized Can-Amroadster dealer.

And here's what your Warranty implications are:

BRP LIMITED WARRANTY — USA AND CANADA:2014 Can-amSPYDER® ROADSTER


Damage resulting from the installation of parts with specifications that differfrom the original Roadster parts, such as, without limitation, different tires,exhaust system, wheels or brakes.


The above can void your warranty & I've yet to see one case where BRP has had to prove that a customers mod caused failure of something in order for them to deny coverage, even tho many on here claim this as gospel. So we take our chances like anything in life.

Now with all that said, be prepaired for a different feel of your roadster depending on the tire you choose, cause the BRP offerings are of a 2 ply sidewall, whereas most auto tires that are suitable for our Roadsters are much stiffer sidewalls, usually being a 4 ply. We're currently running 16 in our fronts and 30 for the rear & wouldn't dream of going back to OEM :thumbup:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66425&d=1366043232 (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/album.php?albumid=1522&attachmentid=66424)

[ulflyer]

This may have been asked already but I'd like to know when switching to the Bridgestone Potenza's up front and the Kuhmo in the back should I be running the 18 Frnt and 28 Rear air pressures like I have been with the stock tires? :dontknow:

Thanks for the replies in advance.

Thats a good pressure to start with. I'm on my second non-OEM rear tire and with the first, air pressure in mid-20's, when I found it wearing in the middle like the OEM did, I dropped the pressure down. On the current Pirelli P4 I've run 20 consistantly with no discernable wear in the middle with 10K on it now and it looks good for another 5K or more. I only ride one up and I'm an easy rider so that obviously has to be taken in effect. two up or hard chargers prob need more air.

I'm still on my OEM fronts.

[Chupaca]

pressure will vary. You have stronger sidewalls yet less weight on them. You will feel the difference cause the softer sidewalls give a softer ride and more lean in the corners. To maintain even tire wear you have to have enough air in them to avoid outer edge tire wear. The pressure recommended on the tire is calculated for cars so you have to consider that as well. It may take time to find the best pressure for your ryde. Just watch the wear and the ryde...!! :thumbup:

[scott16119]

This may have been asked already but I'd like to know when switching to the Bridgestone Potenza's up front and the Kuhmo in the back should I be running the 18 Frnt and 28 Rear air pressures like I have been with the stock tires? :dontknow:

Thanks for the replies in advance.

I have a Kuhmo in the back for about 3,000 miles and have been watching the wear pretty close. For me an my gauge 32psi seems about right.

[Flanker]

LOL! The biggest "conventional" reason to NOT run different brands of tires on the F & R of any vehicle is actually a case of coefficient of friction. Different contact patch sizes, tread pattern, and most importantly rubber compound can result in drastically different coefficient of frictions between different tires. This could bite you in the @$$ under slippery conditions, i.e. very wet pavement, or even more so, under snowy/icy conditions. Given the number of people who've reported in this forum they've successfully run different F & R tires for an aggregate 10s of thousands of miles on their Spyders (I'm assuming most do NOT ride in snowy or icy conditions).........................I'm not worried about it. When the time comes for tire replacement......I'll run what I want; not what BRP or the dealer says I should. If it explodes and spreads flaming debris all over :yikes: ............................I'll know I :cus: up, and it'll give the rest of you something to talk about for a couple of weeks. Oh yea, tire pressures :bdh:. As reported several times previously here; most car tire sidewalls are very likely stiffer than the stock Kendas side walls..........................good idea to start with the stock recommended F pressures and go down from there if you need to. Good luck! PS: Remember! If it explodes and turns into flaming debris........we're definitely talking about you. Life IS full of risk. :sour:

[willey]

I talked to my dealer today about tires.I asked him if he would install a car tire for me.He said if I bring him a car tire he would mount it,the only thing is that it has to be a tire that fits the bike and I would have to sine a waver not holding him responsable.Thats sounds fair to me so now all I have to do is decide what tire I want to use

[C3517C]

I run Kuhmo on the rear, I go 30 PSI and I'm very happy with it.

[tigerdr]

Front: 22 PSI (Bridgestone Potenza RE92)
Rear: 27 PSI (Falken Z1X92)


TIGERDR
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Bob T.]

I keep 28PSI in my stock front tires and no problem

[ElZorroRides]

Thanks to all of you for the replies. I'll start with the stock pressures then adjust from there. I was concerned only cause the tires when on cars usually run a higher pressure but the lack of weight and stronger sidewalls I believe will offset the lower pressures and still allow the tires to remain cool while running. Always good to check the tires aren't running too hot anyway.

[kenk]

I just put a Kumho on mine it met all specs if the BRP tire but was about a third the cost ,run 30lbs. and no trouble.

[ThreeWheels]

I keep 28PSI in my stock front tires and no problem

WOW.
That seems like a lot of pressure to me.
Just my opinion, and I know you didn't ask, but I found pressures that high made the Spyder twitchy.
Pressure that high round out the tire profile and minimizes the contact patch which makes the bike less stable at speed.
Running lower pressure increases the contact patch and makes the spyder feel more "planted".
Just my own humble opinion, and of course whatever works for you is terrific.

[MarkLawson]

You should not have different tires (models) frt or rear or different makes frt or rear on your machine, they should be the same brand and model. Size. should be what BRP puts on your machine when new.


I think others may have misunderstood your message, or it could be that I've misunderstood it. I believe you're saying that whatever band and model tires you decide to use, they should be the same brand and model on the front and rear of your Spyder.

This has always been the rule for two wheeled motorcycles because the tread designs often are intended to work together (front & rear) to give the best results. As the Spyder does not have a rear wheel generally following in the track of the front wheel, I doubt this same rule applies for the Spyder.

As for size, I also disagree to a point. The sensors and computers on the Spyder measure wheel rotation in relation to each other, amongst other things, so going to different tire sizes may cause unintended consequences. I have found that there is some wiggle room that not only has no noticeable impact to the Nanny in the form of error codes, but did make my speedometer & odometer far more accurate, according to my GPS. With the tires I mounted as described below, my speedometer is never more than 1 mph different than my GPS & often shows the same speed. The Spyder's odometer is normally showing 100 miles with the GPS's odometer showing between 102 & 103 miles.

I am currently running Michelin Defenders 175/65R14's on the front and a Michelin HydroEdge 215/60R15 on the rear. As the rear was replaced 11,518 miles back and the fronts only 3,773 miles back, and the HydroEdge was no longer available, I found myself buying the Defender instead. At 11,518, the rear tread depth measures 8/32" across the tread, which is down from the original 11/32". This measurement suggests I may get another 23,000 miles before it reaches its legal wear out. All three tires boast a 90,000 mile tread life, but I'll not expect that on the rear. The fronts are at about 9.5/32", down from the original 10/32". At this rate, I might get 50,000 - 60,000 before legal wear out. My tire wear is pretty even so far, and I am running within the BRP recommended tire pressure range.

By the way, all of these tires are cheaper to buy than the OEMs, & have much better tread life and great traction.