ceramic coating

[cuznjohn]

does ceramic coating really help in dropping temps on the pipes, if so how hard is it to remove the header and pipes from the bike, does the engine need to be pulled or can it be done by just stripping the Tupperware. i was just looking at a few sites about it and i am not sure if it is done for looks or for heat problems. also is the gas tank removable w/o doing much work, because if the bike is having so many problems would it be worth to do it.

[Magdave]

Yes it works and you do not need to pull the engine. It will reduce but not eliminate the heat

http://youtu.be/nDwahD0Fk4w

http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=46025.0

And here are temp readings to confirm
http://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html

[cuznjohn]

it is interesting but is it worth doing.

[Magdave]

it is interesting but is it worth doing.
Some people on Spyders have done it . BRP probably should have done it on the RT at least IMHO. There would not have been any melting problems. They cheaped out and gave us tinfoil.

[Magdave]

I would only recommend the jet hots inside and out coating.

[Bob Denman]

John, With the issues that you and others have been having; I would say that it is worth serious consideration! :thumbup:

[crazyspyder]

:bowdown:yeah it helps a lot, my opinion that is. I took off all the sides Tupperware and used DEI titanium HT silicon spray and sprayed without taking any plumbing off - you'll get some over spray but don't think its that bad. also make sure to spray at least 3 coats and let dry for 10m. or use heat gun between coats. I went an extra step and use their DEI titanium wrap strap to the exposed pipes especially on the left side near gas tank....and used DEI foil tape around Tupperware and gas tank area.:firstplace:

[johnwinslow]

I would like to see some pictures of that it is a long cold winter here in Maine and I was thinking this would be worth doing

[crazyspyder]

I would like to see some pictures of that it is a long cold winter here in Maine and I was thinking this would be worth doing
:Dsearch in this forum for exhaust wrapping 2 , under midlifecrises member -he has pictures ! I will post some of my own at the end of the week. :ani29: in shop ...:banghead:

[SNOOPY]

:bowdown:yeah it helps a lot, my opinion that is. I took off all the sides Tupperware and used DEI titanium HT silicon spray and sprayed without taking any plumbing off - you'll get some over spray but don't think its that bad. also make sure to spray at least 3 coats and let dry for 10m. or use heat gun between coats. I went an extra step and use their DEI titanium wrap strap to the exposed pipes especially on the left side near gas tank....and used DEI foil tape around Tupperware and gas tank area.:firstplace:



Does this spray smell after to start your Spyder the first few times?

I remember exhaust sprays of the past having a really bad smell for a while after application.

[wetmountainman]

Quote from frank3 on 8/07/2013... "FYI, removed both headers 2 years ago on my 2010 RT-S, had them ceramic coated. Coating didn't make much of a difference so this year I removed the headers again and wrapped them in 1" with a much better reduction in heat. Don't bother with the ceramic JMO. "

[SNOOPY]

Quote from frank3 on 8/07/2013... "FYI, removed both headers 2 years ago on my 2010 RT-S, had them ceramic coated. Coating didn't make much of a difference so this year I removed the headers again and wrapped them in 1" with a much better reduction in heat. Don't bother with the ceramic JMO. "


Wow that was an expensive lesson.


I wonder how the "wraps" affect performance?


Or is it "effects", I always get them mixed up. :roflblack:

[wetmountainman]

Question: Does fully wrapping the exhaust pipes create any adverse problems to the pipes, or to engine performance. Someone mentioned possible problems with the pipes briefly in another post but I can't find it now. I know I've seen a lot of motorcycles with fully wrapped pipes, but I never thought about that creating problems.

[crazyspyder]

Does this spray smell after to start your Spyder the first few times?

I remember exhaust sprays of the past having a really bad smell for a while after application.:thumbup: No / yes , a slight odor for a few hours - then goes away. not bad at all ! I can only vouch for the DEI brand thought- I have used other ceramic sprays and they zucked n smelled. racing enthusiast use titanium ceramic coatings as of to date, SO yeah they do work. just don't expect a header to be cold at high rpm. I used 2'' titanium heat wrap I conjuction with ceramic coatings.:firstplace:and my :f_spider: Tupperware stays decently cooler.

[SNOOPY]

:thumbup: No / yes , a slight odor for a few hours - then goes away. not bad at all ! I can only vouch for the DEI brand thought- I have used other ceramic sprays and they zucked n smelled. racing enthusiast use titanium ceramic coatings as of to date, SO yeah they do work. just don't expect a header to be cold at high rpm. I used 2'' titanium heat wrap I conjuction with ceramic coatings.:firstplace:and my :f_spider: Tupperware stays decently cooler.


So your header pipes are fully wrapped and no adverse engine effects? Just asking.

[PW2013STL]

Motorcycle Consumer News did a write up on the new Indian motorcycles and they wrote

"To prevent the exhaust headers from generating uncomfortable temperatures close to the rider's right leg, both headers are ceramic coated, which can reduce their radiated heat by as much as 130*"

:agree:The last set of headers that helped reduce the heat on my right leg on my 2011 Harley was ceramic coated inside and out, so I know it helps.

[crazyspyder]

So your header pipes are fully wrapped and no adverse engine effects? Just asking.//:ohyea: none whatsoever and no warranty issues.:spyder:

[CCPcoatings]

does ceramic coating really help in dropping temps on the pipes, if so how hard is it to remove the header and pipes from the bike, does the engine need to be pulled or can it be done by just stripping the Tupperware. i was just looking at a few sites about it and i am not sure if it is done for looks or for heat problems. also is the gas tank removable w/o doing much work, because if the bike is having so many problems would it be worth to do it.


What kind of issues are you experiencing?

[CCPcoatings]

Question: Does fully wrapping the exhaust pipes create any adverse problems to the pipes, or to engine performance. Someone mentioned possible problems with the pipes briefly in another post but I can't find it now. I know I've seen a lot of motorcycles with fully wrapped pipes, but I never thought about that creating problems.


If you're wrapping Stainless Steel or TI pipes you don't have much to worry about. The biggest problem arises when wrapping mild steel and or chrome pipes. The wrap tends to hold a lot of moisture in which accelerates corrosion (see below). If they are mild steel, you'll need to coat them first. Beyond that, wraps are pretty effective thermal barriers so long as you keep them clean and oil free.

77649

77650

[OWISE1]

Wow that was an expensive lesson.


I wonder how the "wraps" affect performance?


Or is it "effects", I always get them mixed up. :roflblack:


Look here for wraps....http://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html....:popcorn:

[billrob71]

I have not had it done on mine yet but gonna have it done this winter. Expensive but worth it.

[CCPcoatings]

Look here for wraps....http://www.centuryperformance.com/exhaust-header-heat-wraps-do-not-use.html....:popcorn:


The article is a little over dramatic to say the least, not to mention the temp readings from the coated headers are purposely MISLEADING.... Jet Hot and the like historically use an IR temp gun to gauge surface temps which unless they are "calibrated" for a reflective surface are USELESS and will register much less than the actual temp.

We've worked with headers / exhaust systems ranging from 5hp mini bikes to 4500HP+ twin turbo shoot out cars for close to 15 years. There are "extremes" in any application that tend to be the EXCEPTION and not the rule. Most headers / exhaust systems that experience cracks or fatigue are the result of bad welds, insufficient material, and or a combination of both in a stressed or structural application. i.e. various exhaust components are being used in a structural manner and not properly speced.

There is some validity to the advantages to coating the pipes in that Ceramic Coating functions as both a thermal barrier and also dissipates heat from its surface. In that the Spyder is a relatively mild application i.e. normally aspirated, open air and seemingly constructed from SS, you have very little to worry about. Keep in mind if these pipes are in fact SS, that is the primary source of your thermal issues. SS is great for thermal shock and a strong substrate for exhaust components but because it is denser than mild steel it keeps much of it heat on its surface much like a heat sink and it takes longer to dissipate if not aided by any coatings.

[Magdave]

:Dsearch in this forum for exhaust wrapping 2 , under midlifecrises member -he has pictures ! I will post some of my own at the end of the week. :ani29: in shop ...:banghead:
If you read the article I posted it tells you why you should NOT use a wrap but it is your bike:thumbup:

I believe that the wraps are good to protect various underhood 'items' from heat, but not for the use of holding the heat in the header. For example: you can use the wrapping for the protection of fuel and oil lines, wiring, covering a starter motor, etc.

Cool air needs to be around the header, and insulating it with a wrap to hold exhaust heat in makes the header material surface temperatures reach near molten levels. When you wrap the header you trap the heat in the header, but also suffocate the material that needs to breathe to dissipate heat for it's own survival.

This may not be totally true for a 100hp engine but if NASCAR experts say this I tend to think about it.

[Magdave]

Quote from frank3 on 8/07/2013... "FYI, removed both headers 2 years ago on my 2010 RT-S, had them ceramic coated. Coating didn't make much of a difference so this year I removed the headers again and wrapped them in 1" with a much better reduction in heat. Don't bother with the ceramic JMO. "

Wonder who did the coating? If you read the article links I posted and it was one of them I do not believe it. Rattle can sprays may not help much but getting them done professionally (watch the video) ensures the proper coating thickness crucial to getting the desired thickness. JMHO

[Magdave]

The article is a little over dramatic to say the least, not to mention the temp readings from the coated headers are purposely MISLEADING.... Jet Hot and the like historically use an IR temp gun to gauge surface temps which unless they are "calibrated" for a reflective surface are USELESS and will register much less than the actual temp.

We've worked with headers / exhaust systems ranging from 5hp mini bikes to 4500HP+ twin turbo shoot out cars for close to 15 years. There are "extremes" in any application that tend to be the EXCEPTION and not the rule. Most headers / exhaust systems that experience cracks or fatigue are the result of bad welds, insufficient material, and or a combination of both in a stressed or structural application. i.e. various exhaust components are being used in a structural manner and not properly speced.

There is some validity to the advantages to coating the pipes in that Ceramic Coating functions as both a thermal barrier and also dissipates heat from its surface. In that the Spyder is a relatively mild application i.e. normally aspirated, open air and seemingly constructed from SS, you have very little to worry about. Keep in mind if these pipes are in fact SS, that is the primary source of your thermal issues. SS is great for thermal shock and a strong substrate for exhaust components but because it is denser than mild steel it keeps much of it heat on its surface much like a heat sink and it takes longer to dissipate if not aided by any coatings.

You may be right about the stainless but

Examine these actual test numbers:


Mild Steel (1010) uncoated header exposed to continuous 1200º F. in normal air will have a weight loss percentage of roughly 25% with only 10 hours use at this temperature.
Stainless Steel (410) uncoated header will have roughly 8% weight loss in the same 10 hour period.
A coated mild steel header will have NO weight loss at temperatures up to 1200º F. In fact it will actually gain a bit of weight! Between 1300º F and 1600º F the coating will begin to show signs of mud cracking or like the look of lacquer checking. However, limited diffusion takes place between the coating and the substrate, producing a very thin film of iron aluminide, which continues to inhibit oxidation


So there is more benefit to coating SS than running naked

[CCPcoatings]

You may be right about the stainless but

Examine these actual test numbers:


Mild Steel (1010) uncoated header exposed to continuous 1200º F. in normal air will have a weight loss percentage of roughly 25% with only 10 hours use at this temperature.
Stainless Steel (410) uncoated header will have roughly 8% weight loss in the same 10 hour period.
A coated mild steel header will have NO weight loss at temperatures up to 1200º F. In fact it will actually gain a bit of weight! Between 1300º F and 1600º F the coating will begin to show signs of mud cracking or like the look of lacquer checking. However, limited diffusion takes place between the coating and the substrate, producing a very thin film of iron aluminide, which continues to inhibit oxidation


So there is more benefit to coating SS than running naked



Its beneficial to coat ANY substrate, each for different reasons. Beyond aesthetic concerns, SS benefits significantly from reducing radiated heat from its surface. In really thin SS / TI pipes you benefit from Thermal Control. Mild steel needs corrosion protection and a thermal protection, etc, etc.

As for the data above, I'm not buying it. we certainly see corrosion issues over the years as a result of both thermally induced factors and environmental factors. If these headers were losing 25% of their mass that quickly the headers would literally "float off the engine". By his definition most normally aspirated drag cars and road race cars would be going through "multiple" pairs of headers in a season. I've never heard, nor seen such "accelerated" corrosive conditions in my life. Case in point, look at a class 8 / over the road truck of a few years back with a mild steel exhaust. Under load / boost these trucks run FAR beyond these temps and do it for 100's of thousands of miles and 1000's of hours without replacing exhaust systems........

Going further with the bizarre analysis, he goes on to describe an "over temp / delamination" scenario in which the ceramic coating begins to break down and become sacrificial. He then describes the iron oxide / rust as inhibiting rust???? This makes absolutely no sense. As you can see from a the examples below below, his description is in NO WAY indicative of how ceramic coatings react and or fail...........

77654

I'm not sure where the corrosion inhibiting "iron aluminide" is hiding.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ryp-NDsf6gE/UlsDwH6T4bI/AAAAAAAAGKs/NXkFuUxIys8/s720/IMG-20130405-00925.jpg

http://ccpcoatings.com/images/FailedCeramicCoating.jpg

77655

[TexasSpyder]

"This may not be totally true for a 100hp engine but if NASCAR experts say this I tend to think about it."

NASCAR is an advocate of change to E15 fuel. I guess they are correct it's a great fuel if you tear down and rebuild your engine every 500 miles. For the real world it SUCKS guess they are the same as other "Big" organizations give me the money and I will endorse anything.

J. D.

[SNOOPY]

Its beneficial to coat ANY substrate, each for different reasons. Beyond aesthetic concerns, SS benefits significantly from reducing radiated heat from its surface. In really thin SS / TI pipes you benefit from Thermal Control. Mild steel needs corrosion protection and a thermal protection, etc, etc.

As for the data above, I'm not buying it. we certainly see corrosion issues over the years as a result of both thermally induced factors and environmental factors. If these headers were losing 25% of their mass that quickly the headers would literally "float off the engine". By his definition most normally aspirated drag cars and road race cars would be going through "multiple" pairs of headers in a season. I've never heard, nor seen such "accelerated" corrosive conditions in my life. Case in point, look at a class 8 / over the road truck of a few years back with a mild steel exhaust. Under load / boost these trucks run FAR beyond these temps and do it for 100's of thousands of miles and 1000's of hours without replacing exhaust systems........

Going further with the bizarre analysis, he goes on to describe an "over temp / delamination" scenario in which the ceramic coating begins to break down and become sacrificial. He then describes the iron oxide / rust as inhibiting rust???? This makes absolutely no sense. As you can see from a the examples below below, his description is in NO WAY indicative of how ceramic coatings react and or fail...........


I'm a little confused at the outcome of this discussion? Are you saying it is beneficial to "ceramic" coat our stock header pipes whether they are SS, or mild steel...or not?

.

[fyrertuck]

2012 RTS I removed both exh pipe and wrap mine. I did a 1/4 space with 2" wide.

Yes if you cout or wrap it helps big time.

[SNOOPY]

Thanks :thumbup:

[CCPcoatings]

I'm a little confused at the outcome of this discussion? Are you saying it is beneficial to "ceramic" coat our stock header pipes whether they are SS, or mild steel...or not?

.


Absolutely beneficial to Ceramic Coat your exhaust pipes, wrap them or both, for any substrate, i.e. mild steel or SS.... Though, not ALL ceramics are recommended. Specifically, some exhaust applications are too hot for traditional Bright Ceramic. In those cases High Temp Ceramics are required.

[CCPcoatings]

"This may not be totally true for a 100hp engine but if NASCAR experts say this I tend to think about it."

NASCAR is an advocate of change to E15 fuel. I guess they are correct it's a great fuel if you tear down and rebuild your engine every 500 miles. For the real world it SUCKS guess they are the same as other "Big" organizations give me the money and I will endorse anything.

J. D.


LOL, what "NASCAR experts"?????? The article is written by some un-named person or persons from an unknown supplier, who is referencing 30 year old occurrences, combined with a little fact and a few NASCAR like buzz words to somehow justify modern exhaust issues.

What you're failing to see is this. The trajectory of performance engineering / substrate engineering has historically starts with: NASA, F1, NASCAR, Drag racing and then its disseminated to everyone else. I'm not sure how old you are but I can safely say that no one has wrapped any NASCAR headers in at least 20-30+ years........ Back then a whole lot of parts were falling off race cars. Combine that with the fact that NASCAR headers much like many motorsport exhaust applications are PAPER THIN its no wonder there were part failures. We coated a set of vintage Yates NASCAR headers some years back and and they nearly floated off the table by themselves they were so light. Also, the vintage SCCA car below has a PAPER THIN mild and moly exhaust system on it that was a work of art (super lightweight).

Please NOTE: According to the un-known author, these headers would have lost 25% of their density every 10 hours or so. So by his calculations in that these cars are 25-30 years old and have countless hours on them, the exhaust systems must have lost a 1000%+ of their density. So one would assume that these headers disintegrated into thin air many moons ago. I can assure you this is not the case. Aside from some minimal fuel / exhaust corrosion, and road abrasion the headers were there in their full beautifully welded, fabricated glory..........

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7ANYkQrdNwE/UdEoxWxmt3I/AAAAAAAAGA4/uO_STPWoKrY/s640/485459_261604417311363_1047410671_n.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-eQYYAWYRcI0/UX8S8X4M4PI/AAAAAAAAFws/E13yqR4WqzA/s576/IMG_6931.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YMIHlhDL1tw/UX8S6xNFu3I/AAAAAAAAFws/4tPLW24xOgU/s720/IMG_6523.jpg

[crazyspyder]

:lecturef_smilie:Anything and everything will rust over time, even stainless will oxidize over time -it the nature of the beast! with that being said, if you coat and wrap your pipes you must add this to your list of yearly checks and maintance. it will NOT last a lifetime and will be needing recoating or bandage changed at some time. if you do it right and take your time it will last a long time though- and keep your :spyder2: Kool! NO pro here, but I have hands on experience on the subject at hand.:ohyea:

[frank3]

Ceramic coated my pipes 2 or 3 years ago with little heat reduction. Last year, removed them again and wrapped them in titatiun heat wrap. Much improved heat reduction. BTW, be cautious about wrapping. Can and will cause rusting but as mine were already ceramic coated, this isn't a problem for me. The titatium wrap is far better because it doesn't require the water soaking of the wrap or the application of silicone to the headers. Most high end hot rod/racing shops stock this wrap. It's been 8,000-10,000 miles with the wrap and no problems. Lots of work to remove/reinstall headers. If you've removed your air box and replaced it with an aftermarket air intake, you'll have a much easier time of it. Unfortunatly me me, I hadn't replaced the air box until after I'd done the wrap. Go for it. Cold weather approching fast so lots of time to correct all the mistakes you might make.

[CCPcoatings]

:lecturef_smilie:Anything and everything will rust over time, even stainless will oxidize over time -it the nature of the beast! with that being said, if you coat and wrap your pipes you must add this to your list of yearly checks and maintance. it will NOT last a lifetime and will be needing recoating or bandage changed at some time. if you do it right and take your time it will last a long time though- and keep your :spyder2: Kool! NO pro here, but I have hands on experience on the subject at hand.:ohyea:

Very well said...... Though the oxidation on most SS is only an eye sore as opposed to being detrimental to the health of mild steel components. We see the same issues on snowmobiles as well. Most all sleds come with metal heat shields lined with a matting material similar to an exhaust wrap. Most people people have no idea until its too late and the pipes are destroyed from rust... Where as the folks that know better take the shields off periodically to clean / coat or oil...

[SNOOPY]

Absolutely beneficial to do Ceramic Coat them and or wrap them.


Thank you, you, and I appreciate your input on this thread very much! :thumbup:

[Bob Ledford]

Wow that was an expensive lesson.


I wonder how the "wraps" affect performance?


Or is it "effects", I always get them mixed up. :roflblack:

The correct spelling is "effects" I think?

The answer if you own a 2011 RTL, SE-5 is it appears to have had none. But one positive effect. It made the Rt run much quieter. It took the pinging noises generated by the exhaust gases and knocked them down immensely.

[CCPcoatings]

The correct spelling is "effects" I think?

The answer if you own a 2011 RTL, SE-5 is it appears to have had none. But one positive effect. It made the Rt run much quieter. It took the pinging noises generated by the exhaust gases and knocked them down immensely.


Affect and effect are both spelled correctly, they just have slightly different meanings. In his first question I believe he used "affect" properly. Whereas if he said "his performance was effected as a result of the wrapping his pipe".

https://www.vocabulary.com/articles/chooseyourwords/affect-effect/

[Magdave]

A little info I received

HelloDave,
Thank you for your interest in our Jet Hot High Performance Coatings. The price estimate for your parts to be coated is $250.00 in the extreme 1300 blackplus the cost of shipping/handling to send them back to you. Process time once we receive your parts takes 5 business days for extreme 1300 and extreme 2000 & extreme 2500 takes 7 business days.

If there is any chrome or ceramic coating to remove a $50 strip fee will be applied.

Attached to this email is our warranty. Also included is information with suggestions about how to ship your parts.

If you have any questions or would like to place an order please let me know. I would be happy to assist you.

Thank you,



Dan Groff
Inside Sales



JET-HOT’S UNMATCHED WARRANTY

The Jet-Hot exhaust coating warranty is the best in the industry. Lifetime – no questions asked.

If you think your Jet-Hot exhaust coating isn’t living up to its billing, we’ll coat your part again on our dime. If it fails in the first year, we’ll re-coat your part and cover the shipping both ways. If the coating fails after a year, ship us the part and we’ll coat it and ship it back on our dime.

Yep, we stand behind our work.


Commencement of warranty is effective from the shipment date of the original order.

[SNOOPY]

Not too bad. I take it it is for both header pipes?


I say both not knowing if our bikes have two separate or two into one. LOL

[Magdave]

Jet hot will not coat "used" pipes on the inside, unless I've been told wrong. I have been checking with speed shops to see about getting mine done and they are telling me they will only coat the outside on used pipes. (I have not contacted Jet Hot yet)
I did say inside and out with my request and mentioned 2k miles on them but am not sure might be worth asking them. Even just outside would be a big improvement. I am on the fence :popcorn:

[Bob Denman]

My head hurts from trying to make sense of all of this information... :shocked:
It's gonna take some time to soak in!
Thanks for all of the legwork in tracking down the answers! :thumbup:

[jcthorne]

My experience with Jet Hot is that for new parts they apply a good product that does help prevent corrosion and keep things looking nice. For used parts, the longevity is much reduced and subject to flaking or peeling. Yes they will recoat if you want to do the work to remove and send back....it will chip again. If you are looking for insulation properties to help with cooling the engine bay, keep looking as they provide very minimal reduction in heat transfer or surface temps. The heat wrap does a MUCH better job of heat reduction.

[johnwinslow]

well with all that has been discussed, I do not think, for our little twins, we should coat or tape our stainless exhaust, what we need to do is evacuate the hot air as fast as possible, and insulate the parts that are getting hot from the pipes. I replaced my stock air box with a different filter, what is still in my :spyder2:is the air tube from the front, I think I shall install a high cfm fan on that tube to cause some air flow when I am going slow or stopped. I will let you know how it goes. I have a 2011 RTS, I have removed the bottom panels and have the block off plate, and really appreciate some of the heat in the fall and spring here in Maine. so I will probably wire the fan with a switch or thermostat.

[CCPcoatings]

My experience with Jet Hot is that for new parts they apply a good product that does help prevent corrosion and keep things looking nice. For used parts, the longevity is much reduced and subject to flaking or peeling. Yes they will recoat if you want to do the work to remove and send back....it will chip again. If you are looking for insulation properties to help with cooling the engine bay, keep looking as they provide very minimal reduction in heat transfer or surface temps. The heat wrap does a MUCH better job of heat reduction.

If you're past bad experience is with jet-hot and used parts, I would venture to say that had more to do with Jet Hot being bought and sold so much and a lot to do with why jet hot filed for bankruptcy and screwed creditors to the tune of 950 million dollars. They have since been bought out of receivership by a holding company.

Generally speaking, it makes NO DIFFERENCE whether you are ceramic coating a new or used pipe. The only caveat to this is if you are dealing with a SEVERELY rust damaged part, i.e. a very porous part like old cast iron manifolds or old rust damaged / pitted headers. In some of these cases you could potentially see some rust bleed through at some point in the future because it has permeated through the substrate. This is pretty rare though......

[CCPcoatings]

well with all that has been discussed, I do not think, for our little twins, we should coat or tape our stainless exhaust, what we need to do is evacuate the hot air as fast as possible, and insulate the parts that are getting hot from the pipes. I replaced my stock air box with a different filter, what is still in my :spyder2:is the air tube from the front, I think I shall install a high cfm fan on that tube to cause some air flow when I am going slow or stopped. I will let you know how it goes. I have a 2011 RTS, I have removed the bottom panels and have the block off plate, and really appreciate some of the heat in the fall and spring here in Maine. so I will probably wire the fan with a switch or thermostat.

So you're primary issues are melted panels? At what points?

[jcthorne]

If you're past bad experience is with jet-hot and used parts, I would venture to say that had more to do with Jet Hot being bought and sold so much and a lot to do with why jet hot filed for bankruptcy and screwed creditors to the tune of 950 million dollars. They have since been bought out of receivership by a holding company.

Generally speaking, it makes NO DIFFERENCE whether you are ceramic coating a new or used pipe. The only caveat to this is if you are dealing with a SEVERELY rust damaged part, i.e. a very porous part like old cast iron manifolds or old rust damaged / pitted headers. In some of these cases you could potentially see some rust bleed through at some point in the future because it has permeated through the substrate. This is pretty rare though......
My first hand experience was with Jet Hot 2 yrs ago. It was on SS exhaust for my GT. Black ceramic. After 2 tries at recoat I gave up. Sanded the pipes and used VHT high temp black header paint. Has lasted 6 months without chipping so far.
I had previous experience with the bright silver coating on new parts that lasted fine.

[CCPcoatings]

My first hand experience was with Jet Hot 2 yrs ago. It was on SS exhaust for my GT. Black ceramic. After 2 tries at recoat I gave up. Sanded the pipes and used VHT high temp black header paint. Has lasted 6 months without chipping so far.
I had previous experience with the bright silver coating on new parts that lasted fine.

What was happening to it that they had to keep re-coating it?

[Jeriatric]

what we need to do is evacuate the hot air as fast as possible, and insulate the parts that are getting hot from the pipes.

:agree:

[OldCowboy]

Frankly, I fail to see how a thin coating of anything can help. I would like to see a report by an unbiased source on the relative thermal merits of ceramic coatings vs. wraps.

[MidLifeCrisis]

Frankly, I fail to see how a thin coating of anything can help. I would like to see a report by an unbiased source on the relative thermal merits of ceramic coatings vs. wraps.

All you can really go on is user reports, since none of us are trying to sell anything. Even in labs you can't replicate the Spyder environments. Most tests I've read about heat two or three pipes on a bench and measure surface temperatures. They then conclude nothing was gained, because the heat eventually radiates through. That just doesn't account for anything in Spyder world. It doesn't account for heat being distributed over a surface, instead of one spot and certainly no account for how air movement can impact the surface and distributed heat.

I can say for sure the wrapping works on my RT in a big way. The muffler is also way hotter than before, though I have not measured it. I can definitely feel the difference getting near it though, than before wrapping.


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