First time install of wiring to battery...

[Osros]

I'm about to get brave and get into the Spyder for the first time. Let me make this clear this is the first time doing something like this period. I never work on motorcycles before, and I rarely do my own car maintenance, although Im more at ease dealing with a car.

What I'm doing is simply installing three battery harnesses for devices and plan to use the left access panel for the battery hookups.

I can use any advice on routing and such I just want the cables to get to the handle bar area, rather not drill holes yet.

I'm not sure which would be the easiest way and which Tupperware panels I need to remove but really looking for a quick and easy way to get the connectors where I need it with out a fuss. I guess I will find out once I start.

Any tips, tricks, shortcuts or not to do's are appreciated.



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[Phil]

Going forward, using the left side is fine. There is a structural member that runs most of that length and you can tie wrap to it. Please fuse runs like these and if possible, put a shroud around the wires. An accidental direct short right across the battery could spell fire and disaster.

Phil, Tyler TX- from my iPad 7.5 using Tapatalk HD

[Chupaca]

I like to measure the path then cut the wires to that length. Next wrap all the wires together with electrical tape like the harnesses. Then tie wrap along the frame or following exsisting wiring to the point I wish to get to...good luck..!! Remember to hook up the battery last...:thumbup:

[NancysToy]

I don't want to discourage you, but I worry any time more than one extra terminal is attached to a battery. The multiple layers and possibly dissimilar metals are an invitation to corrosion, and the battery bolt may even be too short. You could replace it with a standard bolt, but that introduces still another corrosion source, since battery bolts are specially plated. The correct way to do this is to purchase and install an auxiliary fuse block from TricLED, one of the other SpyderLovers sponsors, Eastern Beaver, or another motorcycle supplier. Your new loads would then be wired to the auxiliary fuse block...and would not need separate fusing as they will with direct wiring.

If you do decide to go directly to the battery, remember that the connections should be to the battery itself, not to the jump start terminals under the seat. While you can safely connect to the positive jumper in most cases, loosening the negative one results in lots of electrical difficulties (it is the main rear frame ground), and numerous cuss words as you try to access and retighten the loose nut on the rear of the bolt.

[Motorcycledave]

Cycle Gear has the wiring made up with a 12V. socket like a cigarette lighter, it is fused
and has everything you need even has the mounting clamp for the handlebars $20.00

[crazyspyder]

Going forward, using the left side is fine. There is a structural member that runs most of that length and you can tie wrap to it. Please fuse runs like these and if possible, put a shroud around the wires. An accidental direct short right across the battery could spell fire and disaster.

Phil, Tyler TX- from my iPad 7.5 using Tapatalk HD

:yikes:please do not use the plastic loom type shroud for the wire, :banghead: I did that and got melted from the heat (glad I checked on this a few weeks later!). use heat wrap foil tape or heat resistance wire loom. good luck!:2thumbs:

[NancysToy]

:yikes:please do not use the plastic loom type shroud for the wire, :banghead: I did that and got melted from the heat (glad I checked on this a few weeks later!). use heat wrap foil tape or heat resistance wire loom. good luck!:2thumbs:
Using split loom is fine, but you should be careful about where you route it. Heat resistant loom makes it easier, though. These rules may differ for the 2013's, however. The heat on some of those is unusually high.

[macgyver 55]

I just removed the battery from my 2010 rt the battery is sealed unit and the cover is at the rear on the left side you have to remove the tork head t27 from the cover and you can unplug the seat wiring from the bottom end to make room the side cover has to come off to acc the positive cable ends unhook the neg cable first important "{" mine needs a battery just because im taking it out and4 years old i am wiring in new battery tender and power leads to the dash for gps and acc power outlet be patient with the plastic and all should be fine macgyver55
I'm about to get brave and get into the Spyder for the first time. Let me make this clear this is the first time doing something like this period. I never work on motorcycles before, and I rarely do my own car maintenance, although Im more at ease dealing with a car.

What I'm doing is simply installing three battery harnesses for devices and plan to use the left access panel for the battery hookups.

I can use any advice on routing and such I just want the cables to get to the handle bar area, rather not drill holes yet.

I'm not sure which would be the easiest way and which Tupperware panels I need to remove but really looking for a quick and easy way to get the connectors where I need it with out a fuss. I guess I will find out once I start.

Any tips, tricks, shortcuts or not to do's are appreciated.



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD