RS Problems to new owner- Any help appreciated!

[plmilligan1968]

Hi all

I live on the Isle of Man and am a new owner of a 2010 Spyder RS.
I picked it up on Sunday and drove it 530 miles home, a very nice machine indeed.

However this morning I left the bike out of the garage over night and it was a little damp and she is now refusing to start, just clicking not firing.
Initially she threw some codes on the screen I believe 12 & 24 ?? but since then she is not just not starting.

I have a battery jump starter charging up as it looks like it could be a flat battery for some reason?

Any ideas or tips or has anyone experienced this. Any ideas on the error codes 12 & 24?
Is there a way to recall error codes, I am sure I have read a thread that you can do this on the RS but can't find it.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Paul M..

[DragonLorD]

hi Paul,
neighbour here :clap:,
12 and 24 doesn't seem to be indicator of codes :dontknow: but it is a battery. best if you contact a seller and ask what experience with battery where in the past. Might be equipped with something what drains battery constantly, happened to me when i installed Powercommander - it was constantly draining battery until i relinked it via fuse box from TricLed which has an 30 seconds cut off. Charged up battery fully and no issues since. Leaving your Spyder outdoor has not affect on it - it's designed for it although nice and dry garage won't do any harm.
Stay in touch and hope to see you soon. :thumbup:

[PistonBlown]

Just to suggest the really really obvious first - have you checked the kill switch, only mention it as I've done that before and a mate has never let me forget it:-)

Also don't twist or party open the throttle as that will prevent the Spyder starting and I think it causes the 'starter click'.

If the batteries low I would also expect the dash to flicker/reset when you try the starter, is that happening? If it was a dud battery then I'd find it a bit strange that you probably stopped at least a couple times on the previous days journey and it started ok again. As 'DragonLorD' suggested if the battery is flat I'd be looking for any extra's that may be draining the battery when left.

The process for getting the code on an RS is (if I read my handwriting correctly):

Use the mode button to show 'Total Hours' in the dash.
Hold down the mode button and...
Press High Beam Flash 5 times rapidly


You'll either see a message saying 'No Active Codes' or the codes will be listed.

[plmilligan1968]

hi Paul,
neighbour here :clap:,
12 and 24 doesn't seem to be indicator of codes :dontknow: but it is a battery. best if you contact a seller and ask what experience with battery where in the past. Might be equipped with something what drains battery constantly, happened to me when i installed Powercommander - it was constantly draining battery until i relinked it via fuse box from TricLed which has an 30 seconds cut off. Charged up battery fully and no issues since. Leaving your Spyder outdoor has not affect on it - it's designed for it although nice and dry garage won't do any harm.
Stay in touch and hope to see you soon. :thumbup:

Thanks for your reply, much appreciated!

I have just fully charged a battery starter and used it but still nothing. When I press the ignition red button after the mode button the ignition just resets just like it does when you put your key and turn it on. It just clicks once and resets the ignition (all lights come on the needles rise and fall and the safety message on the screen). It is strange that even the battery kick starter does nothing to it???

Is there a way of pulling any error codes the screen on a 2010 RS ? The previous owner says he has never had battery problems neither is there anything unusual on it that would drain charge. Any suggestions?? Is it likely that the battery has died? Is it worth ordering a new battery?

Not a great experience after only owning this since Sunday. It's a lovely machine but I need it to work :-)

Thanks in advance for any further advice.

Cheers
Paul M

[plmilligan1968]

Just to suggest the really really obvious first - have you checked the kill switch, only mention it as I've done that before and a mate has never let me forget it:-)

Also don't twist or party open the throttle as that will prevent the Spyder starting and I think it causes the 'starter click'.

If the batteries low I would also expect the dash to flicker/reset when you try the starter, is that happening? If it was a dud battery then I'd find it a bit strange that you probably stopped at least a couple times on the previous days journey and it started ok again. As 'DragonLorD' suggested if the battery is flat I'd be looking for any extra's that may be draining the battery when left.

The process for getting the code on an RS is (if I read my handwriting correctly):

Use the mode button to show 'Total Hours' in the dash.
Hold down the mode button and...
Press High Beam Flash 5 times rapidly


You'll either see a message saying 'No Active Codes' or the codes will be listed.

Pistonsblown,

Thanks for your reply.
The kill switch is defo off, no twist of throttle, it's not being touched.
It is resetting once I try to start her when pressing ignition. No probs though on earlier journey she fired up fine.
Not sure if the battery is cooked or dead but it certainly seems like the source of the problem.
Not sure why my battery kick starter is not having any affect though?

I will try your method of pulling codes and see if that reveals anything further.
Just tried and no error codes are being put on the screen but did not get the message 'no active codes' either?

Cheers
Paul M

[Chupaca]

first you need to check that all your battery connections are clean and tight. Try to jump start to the posts under the seat. But sounds like the battery may be your problem. If you can take it to a car parts store and have them load test it... Good luck..!!:thumbup:

[Orange monster]

The clicking but not turning over sounds like a battery issue for sure. As suggested I would try looking at the battery connections to insure they are clean, tight, and dry. If all looks good I would take the battery to get it tested and then buy a new one and try to start it.

[plmilligan1968]

The clicking but not turning over sounds like a battery issue for sure. As suggested I would try looking at the battery connections to insure they are clean, tight, and dry. If all looks good I would take the battery to get it tested and then buy a new one and try to start it.

Hi all

A new battery has been ordered and will arrive in a couple of days. The battery connections look good, tight and dry, nothing out of the ordinary.
Looks like a couple of days without a bike, that sucks. Is the battery easy to change on the spyder, the neg & pos connections look unstandard being so far apart under the seat. I guess by the looks, it is located on the left side under the top panel. Do you have to remove the seat? Any tips would be very useful.

Cheers
Paul M

[napper39]

no need to remove the seat but the panal will need to come off so if you didnt do that to check for tight battery conections you dont know if they are tight ,and thats the ones you need to keep an eye on they vibrate loose and then all kinds of trouble.i check mine every 500 miles and found them loose three times.the ones under the seat are just for jumping and they hardley ever come loose.i got a new rt now but had a rs for 3 years and i keep my battery tender on at all times not riding.:chat:

[plmilligan1968]

no need to remove the seat but the panal will need to come off so if you didnt do that to check for tight battery conections you dont know if they are tight ,and thats the ones you need to keep an eye on they vibrate loose and then all kinds of trouble.i check mine every 500 miles and found them loose three times.the ones under the seat are just for jumping and they hardley ever come loose.i got a new rt now but had a rs for 3 years and i keep my battery tender on at all times not riding.:chat:

Napper39

Ahhhhh, got it & thanks for the tip. Stupid me was just checking the connections under the seat. After picking up the bike I practically drove the length of England home at a fair lick of speed. It sure is possible that vibrations have loosened the connections. I have a panier rack with the indicators attached so the side panel will be a little more work getting it off. I have run out of daylight now, but that will be my first job on Saturday morning to do. I am hoping for a little grace and that the problem is that simple.

Nice bikes you have owned, I see you are a blue man (blue RS & RT), I am a red man so my RS is in the red & black.

I'll keep you posted & hopefully can this fixed, I'm eager to lap the TT circuit on it :pray::pray:

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: :congrats: on your new ryde. I cannot add anything to what the other posters have suggested. Hope you get it solved quickly. :thumbup:

[quickster47]

I'll keep you posted & hopefully can this fixed, I'm eager to lap the TT circuit on it :pray::pray:

Now lapping the TT Circuit on any Spyder would be way beyond cool.

Hope all goes well for you in the morning and that you find the problem.

Carl

[PistonBlown]

Hi all

A new battery has been ordered and will arrive in a couple of days. The battery connections look good, tight and dry, nothing out of the ordinary.
Looks like a couple of days without a bike, that sucks. Is the battery easy to change on the spyder, the neg & pos connections look unstandard being so far apart under the seat. I guess by the looks, it is located on the left side under the top panel. Do you have to remove the seat? Any tips would be very useful.

Cheers
Paul M

If the dash is resetting it sounds like battery. Had the same thing when I bought my RS2011, fortunately it happened around the corner from the dealers so I pushed it back and got them to fit a new battery.

The back left hand panel has to be removed or at least dropped enough so you can get to the battery to undo the connectors and slide the battery out. The battery connections are on the left so it's pretty simple to do.

You lift the seat but no need to remove it. There are two plastic clippy things there that hold the left hand panel in place.

[DragonLorD]

oh yeah,
it's a good practice to keep an eye on battery connectors, they come loose easily and when they come - all funny things and messages across the dash go on, happened to me so many times but always only a glitch, never an issue - touch wood :ohyea:
keep in touch buddy and when planing on coming over let me know and you'll be well looked after :thumbup:

[NancysToy]

The battery connections are inside the left rear body panel. Those under the seat are jump start connections. Be sure the negative jump start connection is tight. That is the rear frame ground, and if loosened will not tighten without taking the bodyt panel off to get at the almost inaccessible nut. The battery connections themselves also need to be clean and tight. One more thing if you do replace the battery. If it is a dry charge battery (you or the dealer add the acid at time of purchase), it needs to sit overnight to allow the glass mats to expand and absorb the acid. Then it should be fully charged (for about 24 hours) before laying it on its side when you install it in the Spyder. Improper battery preparation will shorthen the life of the battery...or even render it inoperable.

[Frank G]

The battery connections are inside the left rear body panel. Those under the seat are jump start connections. Be sure the negative jump start connection is tight. That is the rear frame ground, and if loosened will not tighten without taking the bodyt panel off to get at the almost inaccessible nut. The battery connections themselves also need to be clean and tight. One more thing if you do replace the battery. If it is a dry charge battery (you or the dealer add the acid at time of purchase), it needs to sit overnight to allow the glass mats to expand and absorb the acid. Then it should be fully charged (for about 24 hours) before laying it on its side when you install it in the Spyder. Improper battery preparation will shorthen the life of the battery...or even render it inoperable.


Let never a day go by without learning something. Thanks:bowdown:

[Rayelljay]

Did you, by any chance, press and hold the Mode button.....I did that and it prompted me to set the clock between 12 and 24 hour basis.......you may be stuck in that setup.

[NancysToy]

Did you, by any chance, press and hold the Mode button.....I did that and it prompted me to set the clock between 12 and 24 hour basis.......you may be stuck in that setup.
That's what it sounds like to me. It is waiting for you to set the clock. The mode button on the dash is prone to sticking. Use the one on the left grip.

[retired1]

Thanks for your reply, much appreciated!

I have just fully charged a battery starter and used it but still nothing. When I press the ignition red button after the mode button the ignition just resets just like it does when you put your key and turn it on. It just clicks once and resets the ignition (all lights come on the needles rise and fall and the safety message on the screen). It is strange that even the battery kick starter does nothing to it???

Is there a way of pulling any error codes the screen on a 2010 RS ? The previous owner says he has never had battery problems neither is there anything unusual on it that would drain charge. Any suggestions?? Is it likely that the battery has died? Is it worth ordering a new battery?

Not a great experience after only owning this since Sunday. It's a lovely machine but I need it to work :-)

Thanks in advance for any further advice.

Cheers
Paul M
I don't remember the starter button being red, just the "kill" switch being red. The starter button is down low on yhe right handlebar.

[wyliec]

I don't remember the starter button being red, just the "kill" switch being red. The starter button is down low on yhe right handlebar.

Oh, oh.

[plmilligan1968]

Oh, oh.

I meant that the Kill switch (red button) is off (pressed down) the M (mode button) is pressed and I press the black ignition switch it doesn't start, just resets without even stirring the engine. Click, reset, lighted dash like it reboots again. I've just got home from work and it's pitch black now. First thing in the morning I will get the left pannier, pannier rack and side panel off to investigate the battery cables. I have ordered a new battery anyway as a spare is always handy Hopefully it's a loose connection and that needs tightening which will then allow me to do a few laps of the TT course :-) If not I will have to wait for the battery to arrive.

If it's a cable or battery prob I will let you all know. If the cables, connections are fine and I replace the battery and it still just resets then I have concerns but we are not there yet.

Just a quick question, any idea why she won't jump start. I have a fully charged new battery jumper but it doesn't do anything to the bike, no different at all?

Cheers
Paul M

[boborgera]

. I've just got home from work and it's pitch black now. First thing in the morning I will get the left pannier, pannier rack and side panel off to investigate the battery cables.



Just a quick question, any idea why she won't jump start. I have a fully charged new battery jumper but it doesn't do anything to the bike, no different at all?

Cheers
Paul M
If you didn't get to the battery, [remove panels] how did you try to jump start?

[plmilligan1968]

If you didn't get to the battery, [remove panels] how did you try to jump start?

Boborgera

I tried to jump start her by connecting the fully charged battery jump starter to the terminals underneath the seat. The left side is positive and the right side is negative I believe. No side panel removal was necessary. It didn't make any difference as the bike did not even stir or try to fire up with the jump starter attached.

Back to square one and remove the panels check the connections, clean them and reconnect them and try again. If still nothing, a new battery will arrive on Monday, so I will swap that out and hope for the best.

Cheers
Paul

[boborgera]

Boborgera

I tried to jump start her by connecting the fully charged battery jump starter to the terminals underneath the seat. The left side is positive and the right side is negative I believe. No side panel removal was necessary. It didn't make any difference as the bike did not even stir or try to fire up with the jump starter attached.

Back to square one and remove the panels check the connections, clean them and reconnect them and try again. If still nothing, a new battery will arrive on Monday, so I will swap that out and hope for the best.

Cheers
Paul

If your battery is dead [fried], Or one of the terminals At the battery is off/very lose, Those terminals won't work..

[plmilligan1968]

If your battery is dead [fried], Or one of the terminals At the battery is off/very lose, Those terminals won't work..

Well this morning i removed the pannier rack, indicator and side panel and battery. Cleaned the terminals reconnected the, attached a battery kick starter and fired her up. Just a click again, it doesn't even try to turnover. I've had the battery on charge for 5 hours and from start of charge to now it only zhows 4 of 5 lights charged, its not budged. After charging i reconnected the battery and fired her again, same click that seems to come from the battery followed by a second hiss. The battery recharge and kick starter has done nothing. I hope it is the battery that has just died and is not outputting enough to even turn her over. New battery arrives on Monday. My fingers and toes are crossed.

Paul M

[mcaccamise]

I have read your starting sequence and you have said twice the red kill switch is off it should be in the on position than mode and start button pushed. Make sure the red kill switch is in the on position NOT off before starting.

[plmilligan1968]

I have read your starting sequence and you have said twice the red kill switch is off it should be in the on position than mode and start button pushed. Make sure the red kill switch is in the on position NOT off before starting.

Kill switch is most definitely on (down position) not moved at all. Ignition on, mode button pushed once, then ignition. Click and no turn-over at all.
I am hoping and guessing that it is a goosed battery. I will find out on Monday, it's a gutter as the weather this weekend is perfect biking weather, bright, sunny and reasonably warm. Just no firing bike. Hopefully on Monday the new battery will get me bike mobile again.

Cheers
Paul M

[Silvervette05]

Reading everything in the post, IMO it could be a dead short in the battery.

[plmilligan1968]

Reading everything in the post, IMO it could be a dead short in the battery.

Hi all

The new battery arrived today and I connected it up and tried to fire her up and nothing but a click again. I fully expected the bike to start after replacing the battery.

The dash lights up the needles rise and fall. I click the mode button and hit the ignition switch and nothing but a loud click. When she clicks all the lights on the dash dim out. Could it be a fuse ? I notice the main fuse one on the left side is much larger than the others and therefore not swappable. Is it ok to switch main fuse 2 with the fan fuse ? are they the same? (its a 2010 RS).

Any other suggestions to try ?? I have only had this bike a little over a week and I am very disappointed that a problem like this has set in already and just want to ride it. There is no dealer on the Island where I live and it will be a very costly exercise shipping the dead bike to a dealer in mainland UK even before he starts looking at it.

Thanks in advance.
Paul M

[quickster47]

I am beginning to think you could have a bad starter solenoid or even the starter itself is actually bad. Especially after the way you described the lights as going dim when trying to start her up.

Carl

[plmilligan1968]

I am beginning to think you could have a bad starter solenoid or even the starter itself is actually bad. Especially after the way you described the lights as going dim when trying to start her up.

Carl

Thanks for your reply Carl.

It is very strange as I rode her back on Island 530 miles no problems. The next morning I try and start her up and and she won't start at all. I don't get it?

Where is the starter/solenoid located? Just in case there is a lose connection ?

If it was the starter or solenoid would the bike throw any codes?

Thanks
Cheers
Paul M

[quickster47]

I doubt that it would throw any codes for that type of problem.

And since I do not have a GS or RS I can not tell you where the starter solenoid is located on your bike. But I am betting it might be close the the battery.

Carl

[DragonLorD]

take a video, even on your phone about what you doing and post a link here - fastest problem solving ever
i bet its something small and silly
also check if your new battery came fully charged, install it and tight poles before you attempt to do anything else
hurry up

[boborgera]

.


Where is the starter/solenoid located? Just in case there is a lose connection ?


Thanks
Cheers
Paul M

The solenoid is is next to the battery, And if memory serves me well, and just to the left,
There is a heavy red wire from the battery to the solenoid....
Usually when you hit the start button and hear a loud click/ing it's the battery ,bad cell...

[wyliec]

When you press the M (mode) button does the scrolling message go away and stay or does it come back?

[plmilligan1968]

When you press the M (mode) button does the scrolling message go away and stay or does it come back?

Wyliec, it goes away and stays away.

The battery replaced and charged, fuses swapped out, battery connections clean & tight, battery ground clean & tight. NO start just click. Here is a video showing what is happening. It looks like a solenoid or starter. Does anyone have any idea how easy these are to replace and how much they cost. I am deliberating on shipping the bike off Island to a dealer in the UK or buy and replace these parts?

Please watch the video and any further advice would be much appreciated! Thanks to everyone who has responded, you are very kind indeed and the help is much appreciated!

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9TcsiXuOOvIVGNRMHZTT1dhbms/edit?usp=sharing

With kind regards
Paul Milligan

[NancysToy]

Your solenoid is obviously OK. You can hear the click. It could be failing to pass any current, but I doubt it. Checking for voltage at the starter end of the cable while trying the switch would confirm it. Looks like a seized engine or a bad starter. BTW, your code check procedure appears to be faulty. The display should read "No Active Fault Code" or show the fault codes sequentially if the procedure is done correctly. Remember that you have to be in the "Total Hours" display before you push the buttons. Don't expect a fault code with this problem, however.

[Neez]

Since you seem to have tried the obvious cures, I should relate my troubles ,which were similar. My 2008 GS-SE5, when fairly new, refused to start so I had it towed to the dealership. After trying the obvious things, they replaced the battery. No cure. Then they replaced the starter. Still no cure. They finally discovered that the bearings in the starter drive train were too tight, and they replaced these on warrantee at no cost to me. That cured the problem, and I have had no grief with it since. The mechanic said that it was a rare occurrence but it does occasionally happen. PS- they also bore the cost of the replaced battery and starter and the tow.

[plmilligan1968]

Since you seem to have tried the obvious cures, I should relate my troubles ,which were similar. My 2008 GS-SE5, when fairly new, refused to start so I had it towed to the dealership. After trying the obvious things, they replaced the battery. No cure. Then they replaced the starter. Still no cure. They finally discovered that the bearings in the starter drive train were too tight, and they replaced these on warrantee at no cost to me. That cured the problem, and I have had no grief with it since. The mechanic said that it was a rare occurrence but it does occasionally happen. PS- they also bore the cost of the replaced battery and starter and the tow.

It sure looks like the starter motor has died.

I now have to find the best method of getting the Spyder back to a dealer on the Mainland, an expensive exercise. While it is there I will get some mods installed to make it worth the journey.

I only had her on the Island for 2 days before this trouble. It seems I will be without a ride for another couple of weeks. I sure hope I have more luck when she returns, or my Spyder ownership will be short and expensive.

Now where is that bottle of wine :-(

Cheers
Paul M

[boborgera]

It sure looks like the starter motor has died.

I now have to find the best method of getting the Spyder back to a dealer on the Mainland, an expensive exercise. While it is there I will get some mods installed to make it worth the journey.

I only had her on the Island for 2 days before this trouble. It seems I will be without a ride for another couple of weeks. I sure hope I have more luck when she returns, or my Spyder ownership will be short and expensive.

Now where is that bottle of wine :-(

Cheers
Paul M
Usually when a starter gos bad it will spin but not engage the fly wheel.:dontknow:
I replaced many starters on cars [Never on a bike/trike] over the years, And most times the bendix spring,
Would weaken/brake and just spin the starter gear..

[Explorer]

The suspense is killing me. Have you found the cause of the problem?

[plmilligan1968]

The suspense is killing me. Have you found the cause of the problem?
Hi Explorer

The bike is still off the road but the good news is an engineer from one of the dealerships in the UK should be flying over to the Island on Friday. It certainly looks like the starter motor has died, the engineer is bringing a starter motor with him. To make it worth while I am also having him fit a few mods (Juicebox, Two Brother Twin Exhaust, High airlow air filter, sports windshield and floorboards). Of course all this will mean nothing if he can't get it started but all things point to the starter motor.

It is going to be a costly exercise considering I have only ridden the bike for 4 days prior to it breaking down. I have owned the Spyder for 19 days and only been able to ride it for 4 of them. Even though I will part with some hard earned cash on Friday/Saturday, Hopefully will be riding again with a modified Spyder looking and performing better than when I got it. That will put a smile back on my long face :-)

I will keep you posted and also upload some photos of the mods once they are done.

Cheers
Paul M..

[plmilligan1968]

Hi all

It's been a long while since I was on Spyderlovers & updated you all on my RS problem.

The journey has been a long a one. If you remember my newly acquired RS would not start, all the obvious checks were undertaken (battery, earthing cables, starter motor, solenoid etc), but still nothing.

So I drained the oil and it was black (not a good sign), so I pulled the oil filter and it was full of filings (a very bad sign). So I got the RS shipped out to a dealer to take a look.

Before I bought the Spyder (with 12k miles), it had recently had a service undertaken. One of the items replaced was the clutch plates. Yes you guessed correctly, the clutch plates were fitted incorrectly and they completely blew, the clutch plate pieces jamming the cam chain & sprockets.

Needless to say I was gutted as I knew the fix was going to be major leaving me Spyderless for many weeks as well as very expensive.

The Spyder has been away the whole time and I only got it back last weekend. While it was being fixed I took the opportunity to have a fair few mods installed (K&N air filter, juicebox pro, two bros twin carbon fibre exhaust, mini bafflers, suspension upgrade, ultra sports windshield, Rivco driver footboards, IPS key).

Since getting it back I drove 400 miles home and have driven another 200 since & she hasn't missed a beat.

It's been painful & expensive but I now have my Red RS back and I have a smile on my face (at last).

I have been very unlucky, but time, money & patience has paid off. My Spyder is now faster, louder, better looking and even more fun.

Thanks to everyone who helped with my initial help plea, it was much appreciated.

Happy festive season to you all.
I have the best Christmas present of all, my Spyder back :-)

Photos of the mess of clutch plates and my restored & modified Spyder.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9TcsiXuOOvIbUhpdXFRUzY1VUU&usp=sharing

Cheers
Paul

[BajaRon]

Hi all

It's been a long while since I was on Spyderlovers & updated you all on my RS problem.

The journey has been a long a one. If you remember my newly acquired RS would not start, all the obvious checks were undertaken (battery, earthing cables, starter motor, solenoid etc), but still nothing.

So I drained the oil and it was black (not a good sign), so I pulled the oil filter and it was full of filings (a very bad sign). So I got the RS shipped out to a dealer to take a look.

Before I bought the Spyder (with 12k miles), it had recently had a service undertaken. One of the items replaced was the clutch plates. Yes you guessed correctly, the clutch plates were fitted incorrectly and they completely blew, the clutch plate pieces jamming the cam chain & sprockets.

Needless to say I was gutted as I knew the fix was going to be major leaving me Spyderless for many weeks as well as very expensive.

The Spyder has been away the whole time and I only got it back last weekend. While it was being fixed I took the opportunity to have a fair few mods installed (K&N air filter, juicebox pro, two bros twin carbon fibre exhaust, mini bafflers, suspension upgrade, ultra sports windshield, Rivco driver footboards, IPS key).

Since getting it back I drove 400 miles home and have driven another 200 since & she hasn't missed a beat.

It's been painful & expensive but I now have my Red RS back and I have a smile on my face (at last).

I have been very unlucky, but time, money & patients has paid off. My Spyder is now faster, louder, better looking and even more fun.

Thanks to everyone who helped with my initial help plea, it was much appreciated.

Happy festive season to you all.
I have the best Christmas present of all, my Spyder back :-)

Photos of the mess of clutch plates and my restored & modified Spyder.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9TcsiXuOOvIbUhpdXFRUzY1VUU&usp=sharing

Cheers
Paul

I have heard of this before. I'm told all of the Can-Am ATV's have their clutch plates installed in a similar fashion. But the Spyder is different. Mechanics (that tend to know everything) simply install the Spyder clutch as they are accustomed. It isn't until they blow one up that they check the install instructions and discover that they've done it wrong.

[Riker]

Didn't notice it anywhere.. and we are pressing the brake ? I know simple, but has happened... sorry if mentioned..
:dontknow:

[spydaman60]

nice looking ride man!! sorry to hear of your misfortune, but the key thing is you're back on the road and rolling again!!! good luck bro, and karma will take care of the seller!!!:thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

:agree: :congrats: on finally being ready for some "Wind Therapy"! :thumbup:

[napper39]

i sorry my brother of all your trouble and glad you reported back of the fix,i hope now you have many years of fun riding sorry my in put didnt help,now ride like the wind and have fun you sure have erned it.:chat:

[PistonBlown]

Pleased to hear you're back on the road but can't believe the damage to the clutch plates shown in your photo's. All I can say is thank goodness it didn't happen while you were riding because that would have locked the back wheel up for sure.

Anyway just to congratulate you on an excellent colour choice - Red and Black is the colours for this area of New Zealand (Canterbury/Christchurch) and the team colours of our rugby team the mighty Crusaders:-) Also really like the exhaust and windscreen.

Have fun,

Jos

[plmilligan1968]

Thanks Jos, much appreciated.

Yes, I was lucky that the debris in the engine didn't do more damage. 52 engine parts were replaced, most precautionary (16 sets of bearings alone).

I was very glad the clutch plates blew while the engine was warming up and not when I was ploughing down a motorway at 70mph plus. That could have been ugly.

I am a Manchester United supporter, so Red & Black were my only colours.

Thanks for your help & great communication. It's great to have more experienced Spyder owners to converse with.

Here's to 3 wheels in the breeze!
Keep well & ride safely (but not slowly)!

Paul M

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Gee... I heard that they ride motorcycles around a bit on the Isle; can you confirm that? :D
Some pictures of that event would be GREATLY appreciated! :thumbup:

[plmilligan1968]

Yes Bob, the Isle of Man is a Mecca for Motorbikes. Motorbike road racing started here. You can see motorbikes of all types and ages here.

50,000 motorbikes arrive on the Island for the TT. My Spyder is unique as it is the only registered Can-Am Spyder on the Island :-) It's about time BRP had some representation here :-)

The TT is still considered the most dangerous motorcycle race in the world, every year there are deaths unfortunately.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Snaefell_Mountain_Course_fatal_accidents

Here is a video giving some good footage of the race.
http://vimeo.com/46856767

I ride the Spyder around the TT circuit (37.75 miles per lap) a few times every week :-)

Enjoy
Paul M

[Bob Denman]

:shocked: Wow!! I needed to wipe my brow after watching the video... :D
You truly do live in Paradise! :thumbup:

[greatrides]

That is great footage. ..I was lucky to watch the races this year on tv....cant wait to get the spyder back and do a couple hot laps around southern ohio:2thumbs:

[Explorer]

Thanks for the update Paul. Sorry for your problems, but glad that you got it sorted out, and are back riding.
Keep it between the ditches.
Roger

[Zoup2nuts]

...Hi,

I'm a new member and will be picking up my 2010 (blue) RS next week. It has 6,100 miles on it and is immaculate. My question concerns your two brothers dual exhaust and the fact that you have the Can-Am bags at the same time. When I inquired (thru my local dealer) with Two Brothers, they said I couldn't do the dual exhaust with the bags. Is there anything different from stock with your two brothers set-up? I really like the sound/looks of the dual set-up. Thanks, Bob (in Colorado, USA)..

[frankc]

Hi all

I live on the Isle of Man and am a new owner of a 2010 Spyder RS.
I picked it up on Sunday and drove it 530 miles home, a very nice machine indeed.

However this morning I left the bike out of the garage over night and it was a little damp and she is now refusing to start, just clicking not firing.
Initially she threw some codes on the screen I believe 12 & 24 ?? but since then she is not just not starting.

I have a battery jump starter charging up as it looks like it could be a flat battery for some reason?

Any ideas or tips or has anyone experienced this. Any ideas on the error codes 12 & 24?
Is there a way to recall error codes, I am sure I have read a thread that you can do this on the RS but can't find it.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Paul M..

had the spyder been riding when you got it? was it at operating temp? if it was probably started right up you didn't have to hit the mode button. now that it cold you have to hit the mode button. I have forgot that more then once. I guess you have to do that on all of them.