Side to Side sway.

[scarecrow]

Side to Side sway. straight line two up 40mph and up. It's like riding in a boat wake at slow speeds. Again I'm new to a spyder. Bike is new.
Can't see after spending 25+ on a new bike that I need to put another $600 for new front shocks and $200+ on a sway bar kit.

[Wiredux]

Side to Side sway. straight line two up 40mph and up. It's like riding in a boat wake at slow speeds. Again I'm new to a spyder. Bike is new.
Can't see after spending 25+ on a new bike that I need to put another $600 for new front shocks and $200+ on a sway bar kit.

What are you riding?

[scarecrow]

2013 RT-S SE5

[SpyderAnn01]

Talk to your dealer and have them check the shocks. Also be sure to read the thread about tips for new owners. Are you gripping the handlebars tightly? That will mess up your ride for sure. Good luck

[Pennyrick]

Side to Side sway. straight line two up 40mph and up. It's like riding in a boat wake at slow speeds. Again I'm new to a spyder. Bike is new.
Can't see after spending 25+ on a new bike that I need to put another $600 for new front shocks and $200+ on a sway bar kit.


First check the thread for new owners and digest the advice.

You should be in 2nd gear at 40 mph or maybe in 3rd if you are slowing down. If you are in any higher gear than that your engine may be wobbling on its' mounts from lugging.

Other than that get back to the dealer and have the front end and tires checked for misalignment or misassembly.

[Bob Ledford]

It seems to be a very common thing with new riders. Being my first Spyder after some 50 years of two wheeling and reverse Y configured machines I did it too.

The problem lays with those things at the end of your arms, called hands. Your subconsciously gripping the handle bars to tightly. Practice just laying your hands lightly on the grips. Periodically remove one hand at a time and shake it out. A Spyder at cruising speed does not require very much pressure to steer it at any speed above stopped......

Additionally there is a file on the forum named new rider info by Illinios Boy that has tons of tips for new Spyder pilots.

Keep us posted

[Illinois Boy]

Side to Side sway. straight line two up 40mph and up. It's like riding in a boat wake at slow speeds. Again I'm new to a spyder. Bike is new.
Can't see after spending 25+ on a new bike that I need to put another $600 for new front shocks and $200+ on a sway bar kit.

As mentioned by others... you could have some "technical" problems; but more than likely you are experiencing what many through the years have when first riding a Spyder.

Your problem may be you. No offense intended. Many (and I mean MANY) people have reacted as you when first riding one.

Check-out the link in my signature for a few tips from the "sages" through the years... you may find it to be helpful.

Ride safe...

[Chupaca]

make sure all the updates were made to your roadster. Dealer can check with the vin number. Then,as mentioned above, check out the new ryder's info. Then relax when ryding these roadsters track well on the road. Much like you drive your car with one hand loosely on the wheel relax your grip on the bars. Practice will convince you...:thumbup:

[rabtech]

I am going to assume that you did a test ride and didn't experience any of what your feeling now. If that is the case then this would help ,,,, Find a fellow spyder rider that has some milage under their belt and that you trust. Let them ride it. If they come back and tell you that its the bike you absolutely need to get it to the dealer. And the others are correct. You may have one that has some known factory issues. There have been issues with one or all of these items.... Shocks, Ball Joints, and Bad Alignment. Im leaning toward bad alignment.

[jimb57]

The dealer installed my new shocks for free, due to the service recall, now she tracks straight.

[Oklahoma Spyder]

thats what mine did with the broken heim link

[Dan_Ashley]

Me too. Same thing. At 65 mph scared me 1/2 to death. Said to my wife, " I never shoulda sold my bike to buy this piece of s###."

Short story told long: it was me. Took me 1,000 miles to un-learn 2-wheelers. I had to learn to not "wear" the bike, but to relax and sit loose. Now it is as solid as a rock. Afterwards I put the Bajaron sway bar on. This helps in the twisties, and with truck winds--but the problem with the yaw was 100% me.

so, take it slow....allow your brain to learn how to relax an ride it. It is almost impossible to tip it over.

[kepople]

Btw: i thought mine tracked really well. Last weekend a friend installed the baja ron sway bar on my 2012 rts and i am amazed at the difference.

Even behind semis on the highway, i get blow around, but the spyd stays put in one spot..

Not sure why brp has not incorporated a stiffer sway bar.

[retread]

It might be a good idea to check your tires, I run 18 in the front and 28 in the back. If the pressure is too low, things get a little wierd.

john

[bullant12]

Side to Side sway. straight line two up 40mph and up. It's like riding in a boat wake at slow speeds. Again I'm new to a spyder. Bike is new.
Can't see after spending 25+ on a new bike that I need to put another $600 for new front shocks and $200+ on a sway bar kit.

Again... new owners need to understand that after market shocks and anti-sway bars are to IMPROVE the ride, not FIX it. If your :spyder2: cannot ride correctly out of the dealer, both the owner and the dealer need to resolve the issue: owner by learning the ropes if a brand new, never ridden a :spyder2: before, and the dealer to make sure that the :spyder2: is up to specifications and even test it before the new owner takes it out.

Once all that is corrected, it is up to the owner if he wants to spend the money on IMPROVING the shocks, sway bar, or both.

Good luck!

[Sandysandals]

Side to Side sway. straight line two up 40mph and up. It's like riding in a boat wake at slow speeds. Again I'm new to a spyder. Bike is new.
Can't see after spending 25+ on a new bike that I need to put another $600 for new front shocks and $200+ on a sway bar kit.

No one has mentioned having your bike aligned. The front wheels are like a car and the 'toe' has to be adjusted. And like cars, they are not all the same and the out of alignment is different on them all. That's probably why the ball join replacement worked on some. Mike at Spydercomfort has developed and patented a laser alignment for Spyders that works wonders. Mine tracked all the time...it was way out of adjustment. After Mike aligned it, VOILA......no more tracking. I'm having my ball joints replaced this week for the recall and yep, one is cracked. Some dealers carry the alignment system so check with yours. And if your dealer doesn't have it...contact Mike or Krystal at Spydercomfort to see where the nearest dealer is. I'm tellin' ya, it made a world of difference in my ride. I'm sold on it. 76665 :ohyea:

[scarecrow]

Thanks to everyone. Having it rain here for the last week or so has slowed down my riding, but did get it out today for awhile. Having improvement on my riding skills evrytime I do ride and most of the feeling are going away. Thanks.

bullant12, I have no intent of spending that kind of money on a new bike. Yes, I do feel that if it doesn't improve I will be talking to the dealer about the problem.

I bought the :spyder2: from my dealer,but they had to bring it in from another site in a crate and assemble it. I drove it home with only 1 mile on the odo.
This isn't the first bike I bought that was in a crate when I bought it. 1980 1100 Midnight Special in a crate then assemabled by the dealer. I drove it off the lot, had a mile on it and the Head light assembly fell off it. Drove it back and had them go all through the bike again. I still have the bike today.

[FLAlaserman]

I am going to assume that you did a test ride and didn't experience any of what your feeling now. If that is the case then this would help ,,,, Find a fellow spyder rider that has some milage under their belt and that you trust. Let them ride it. If they come back and tell you that its the bike you absolutely need to get it to the dealer. And the others are correct. You may have one that has some known factory issues. There have been issues with one or all of these items.... Shocks, Ball Joints, and Bad Alignment. Im leaning toward bad alignment.


I agree it sounds like alignment..almost every Spyder we have aligned in the last 6 months are toed OUT...which is not a good feeling , Spyders need to be TOED IN

check out my web site for Laser Alignment dealers

www.spydercomfort.com (http://www.spydercomfort.com)

[FLAlaserman]

It seems to be a very common thing with new riders. Being my first Spyder after some 50 years of two wheeling and reverse Y configured machines I did it too.

The problem lays with those things at the end of your arms, called hands. Your subconsciously gripping the handle bars to tightly. Practice just laying your hands lightly on the grips. Periodically remove one hand at a time and shake it out. A Spyder at cruising speed does not require very much pressure to steer it at any speed above stopped......

Additionally there is a file on the forum named new rider info by Illinios Boy that has tons of tips for new Spyder pilots.

Keep us posted

BOB that is easy for you to say...SCARECROW out of the 70 alignments I have done so far this year Bob's Spyder was perfect from the factory...meaning I could not have asked for better toe or alignment...and I just saw my second one at Spyderquest that was perfect... so 68 out of 70 Spyders needed to be worked on to achieve proper alignment. I am not saying he doesn't need to relax his hands BUT when the Spyder is SCARY to ride because of TOE OUT and mis-alignment it doesn't matter how relaxed his hands are ...the fear factor comes in to play...when your Spyder is this out of control it is a very scary ride...been there.. felt it.

[scarecrow]

Thanks and the price to have this done is?

[bullant12]

Thanks and the price to have this done is?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l91ISfcuzDw

Just kidding... depends on the dealer that supplies it. Between $80 to $129.

[MarkLawson]

Thanks to everyone. Having it rain here for the last week or so has slowed down my riding, but did get it out today for awhile. Having improvement on my riding skills evrytime I do ride and most of the feeling are going away. Thanks.

bullant12, I have no intent of spending that kind of money on a new bike. Yes, I do feel that if it doesn't improve I will be talking to the dealer about the problem.

I bought the :spyder2: from my dealer,but they had to bring it in from another site in a crate and assemble it. I drove it home with only 1 mile on the odo.
This isn't the first bike I bought that was in a crate when I bought it. 1980 1100 Midnight Special in a crate then assemabled by the dealer. I drove it off the lot, had a mile on it and the Head light assembly fell off it. Drove it back and had them go all through the bike again. I still have the bike today.

Sounds like most of your experience is on two wheels. The Spyder uses different laws of physics than two wheelers do. You're not "one" with the Spyder like you may be used to. Instead, you're sitting on top of it and being tossed around like a sack of potatoes. As the Spyder doesnot lean in turns, you are throw to the outside of the turn. Even on straightaways you are making constant minor course corrections and your bidy always responds to those corrections opposite than what you do when on two wheels. Spyder steering is also different, as you're NOT using counter-steering like on two wheelers. This will take time as your arms re-learn how to steer.

Suspension upgrades are often done & most are very pleased with the results. I have upgraded mine with the Elkas and BahaRon's anti-sway bar. They're costly, no doubt, but made a huge improvement for me.

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: Not much I can add in the way of suggestions. Least expensive is to try a lighter input on the handlebars. If that is not your particular solution, then its on to the mechanical stuff. The :spyder2: should not go all over the place out of the box. The OEM stuff is sufficient for a good ryde. Better shocks and swaybar are for "improved" ryde--as stated above.