Now mine....

[ataDude]

Accessory wiring:

To ensure that I didn't make the computer nannies mad, I ran an entirely new set of circuits (front to back) from the battery, through a relay, to a 30-amp Blue Sea fuse block mounted in the front compartment. The relay is activated by fuse three in the Spyder's standard front fuse block... therefore, all of my new circuits are on only when the ignition is on. An advantage to using fuse #3 is a built-in 15 second delay after the ignition is switched off.

As with all of these mods, I had the parts already "in stock" from other past bike projects. The Blue Sea box accommodates six fused circuits and six ground points. I'm only using three at this point... the Corbin heated seat will make four. All handlebar stuff (V1, GPS, etc) are low amperage and running on one circuit.

All wiring is run through plastic wiring looms available almost everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. ::)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=275

Update: If I were to do this again, I'd mount the Blue Sea box not IN the front box but immediately behind it. Reason - if the luggage "box" needs to be removed, the "though-the-firewall" wiring complicates matters tremendously.
.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=424
http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-fuse.JPG

[ataDude]

These are Pilot 55w ultra-blue (very bright) driving lights I had "in stock" from other bike projects.... they are about 3-4 years old. You may be able to find them at Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc. I used these instead of others because the plastic finish exactly matches the plastic trim / guards on the front suspension.

The lower plastic light mounts (came with the lights) were reduced in size and re-shaped with a die-grinder. Mounting them on the bike required drilling one 1/4" hole (each side) through the plastic suspension guards... which can later be capped off if desired. All mounting hardware and brackets are virtually invisible.

I like the suspension mounts because the "bounce" produces a "modulator" effect without a modulator (I like modulators, BTW).

Update 7/21/2008: The bounce produces more than a modulator effect :shocked:. Over time, the lights also tend to swivel up on the mounts even though they're as tight as I can get them. More work coming to fix that.

Update 7/30/2008: The low-tech fix? A small glob of RTV between the swivel mount parts. It's not permanent and seems to work fine.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=273
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=274

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=2292
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=427

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=426

http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-light-front.JPG http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3502

[ataDude]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=276

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2528

[ataDude]

I have used Hyper-Lites << for brakes >> on most of my previous bikes. On my customized Valk, I even use them as << turn signals >>.

Other folks can see these from as far as a mile away. I opted to mount just one on the Spyder... high and in the middle... with a home-made "U bracket" made from .020" thick x 1" wide stainless. The mount is fairly "invisible" unless you look from underneath.

After complaints from some of my riding buds, I now "snip the green HL wire" so that they blink for about five seconds instead of constantly.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=280
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=425
http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-hyperlight.JPG

[bjt]

To ensure that I didn't make the computer nannies mad, I ran an entirely new set of circuits (front to back) from the battery, through a relay, to a Blue Sea fuse block mounted in the front compartment. The relay is activated by fuse three in the Spyder's front fuse block... therefore, all new circuits are on only when the ignition is on.

As with all of these mods, I had the parts already "in stock" from other past bike projects.

All wiring is run through plastic wiring looms available almost everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. ::)

Nice. It looks like you used a similar idea as Evoluzione's powerbus for getting additional 12 volt power points.

[ataDude]

Nice. It looks like you used a similar idea as Evoluzione's powerbus for getting additional 12 volt power points.


Probably...except mine was free... :clap:... left over from an ST-1300 project about three years ago. I found it in the same toolbox drawer where the throttle-lock lived for a few years. :dontknow:

I'm known for collecting parts for bikes... selling the bikes... and keeping the parts. Need a rear-end and single-sided swingarm for a G1800? How about Valkyrie pipes? Or ST-1300 seats? Or VTX 1800C headers? Maybe even a few HD parts left? ::)

[ataDude]

I drilled and tapped the steering top cover for Ram ball mounts...fairly easy to do. A Nuvi 660 and Valentine One are currently mounted. The Nuvi and V1 are NOT waterproof... that's what they make plastic baggies for, right? :dontknow:

I began using the RAM mounts several bikes ago. They are easy to mount/dismount and are flexible in moving "things" around. I usually use http://MotorcycleLarry.com as the source for all of the RAM stuff. He's a rider and either works in, or owns, the company that builds the RAM mounts.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=270
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=271
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=423

http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-mounts.JPG

[Lamonster]

:spyder: :doorag:

[SPYMAN]

These are Pilot 55w ultra-blue (very bright) driving lights I had "in stock" from other bike projects.... they are about 3-4 years old. You may be able to find them at Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc. I used these instead of others because the plastic finish exactly matches the plastic trim / guards on the front suspension.

The lower plastic light mounts (came with the lights) were reduced in size and re-shaped with a die-grinder. Mounting them on the bike required drilling one 1/4" hole (each side) through the plastic suspension guards... which can later be capped off if desired. All mounting hardware and brackets are virtually invisible.

I like the suspension mounts because the "bounce" produces a "modulator" effect without a modulator (I like modulators, BTW).

I like theses,

SPYMAN

http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-light-front.JPG

http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/medium/ataDude-light-rear.JPG

[nudle]

Looks great :bigthumbsup:

[LittleJohn]

Based on the lack of feedback, I'm beginning to think that posting these mods was a waste of time.

Did they help anyone at all -or- were they old news -or- should I just enjoy my mods privately in the future? Inquiring minds want to know...

:spyder: :spyder:



Always feel free to share mods!!!! LOL
I like the strut lights you used. The shape goes well with the bike, and like you said, the plastic is a spot on match!!!

[VIspyderman]

Based on the lack of feedback, I'm beginning to think that posting these mods was a waste of time.

Did they help anyone at all -or- were they old news -or- should I just enjoy my mods privately in the future? Inquiring minds want to know...

:spyder: :spyder:




I'd have to say that it's great that folks post any and every mod they do. If you are looking to get an "attaboy" you're probably not going to get one. I, however, make note of each and every mod done and shown as I have many customers who ask questions... and then I send (the customers) them to the "experts". That's the folks who've done it. So, please don't stop posting mods. That goes for everyone. They are observed, noted and considered by many of us.

[bjt]

:spyder:

Keep 'em coming bro!

There are so many things that some people are doing to their Spyder that I probably would never do or that I have already done a different way, like your fuse block, but I always like to look at their ideas.

:a18:

[mike3069]

Hey there ataDude! Nice stuff. :bigthumbsup: Judging from the # of views vs. the # of posts, a lot of folks are thinking about your ideas and implementation. :congrats: keep posting!

[bjt]

I don't need pics for myself... and if you've done them before, you know you blow several hours taking, editing and posting them.

:agree:

Sometimes the picture taking / posting process takes longer than actually doing the mods. ::)

[NancysToy]

Based on the lack of feedback, I'm beginning to think that posting these mods was a waste of time.

Did they help anyone at all -or- were they old news -or- should I just enjoy my mods privately in the future? Inquiring minds want to know...

:spyder: :spyder:

They are great, and I liked your single Hyper-Lite. I did two on the license light, though, because I didn't want to drill the tailpiece. Still pondering whether to clip the wire loop. The blinking is distracting, but commands attention. I also liked the auxilliary wiring harness, but tucking it under the dash, or using Evoluzione's version, may be the way I go due to the liner being installed. Don't worry if nobody comments much. Sometimes that just means you did well, there is no controvery, and no questions due to your clarity. This stuff is all useful. Kkeep it coming.
-Scotty

[jeuchler]

Based on the lack of feedback, I'm beginning to think that posting these mods was a waste of time.

Did they help anyone at all -or- were they old news -or- should I just enjoy my mods privately in the future? Inquiring minds want to know...

:spyder: :spyder:




Hey, ataDude, I didn't reply since I was calculating whether I had enough $$$ to duplicate that light setup you did!

Also, as Lamont wrote earlier in another post (http://www.spyderlovers.com/smf/index.php?topic=1538.msg12724#msg12724), the activity here has gotten pretty fast and furious lately, so there's an awful lot to read.

Anyhow, I myself have posted w a y simpler modifications than your excellent ones ("Ooo, looky! jeuchler peeled off the Can-Am sticker (http://www.spyderlovers.com/smf/index.php?topic=770.msg7546#msg7546)!") sort of just to have a record of my process. If I get any feedback, that's a bonus!

[ataDude]

They are great, and I liked your single Hyper-Lite. I did two on the license light, though, because I didn't want to drill the tailpiece. Still pondering whether to clip the wire loop. The blinking is distracting, but commands attention. I also liked the auxilliary wiring harness, but tucking it under the dash, or using Evoluzione's version, may be the way I go due to the liner being installed. Don't worry if nobody comments much. Sometimes that just means you did well, there is no controvery, and no questions due to your clarity. This stuff is all useful. Kkeep it coming.
-Scotty


Thanks. Here's what I've found on the Hyper-Lites... feedback from my group... I'm sure it applies to others... after you're stopped (particularly for a long light), the continued bright flashing lights pi$$ folks off. If I'm stopped and notice others coming up on my six, I'll hit the brake again for another sequence. It's particularly annoying at night, so I'm told. :opps:

[SPYMAN]

A arm lights are nice I am looking for some thing along those lines!!
Keep posting your mods for sure I like seeing what every one comes up with.

:2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

SPYMAN

[Lamonster]

... no, I'm not going to re-post all of that :shocked::D.... so go here:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5619

I merged the thread for you. :doorag: I really just wanted to see how that worked. :D

[ataDude]

I merged the thread for you. :doorag: I really just wanted to see how that worked. :D

Thanks. That was easy << for me >>. :clap::2thumbs::yikes::D:clap:

[Rotaxrocket]

Does your driving lights stay on all the time or do you have a switch mounted? Looks great. I will probably mount some on mine. Great idea.......

[ataDude]

Does your driving lights stay on all the time or do you have a switch mounted? Looks great. I will probably mount some on mine. Great idea.......

There's a switch in the black plastic shroud just beneath and to the left of the instrument cluster. Left side is always better for switches and the like as your right hand is busy with the throttle.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=287

[Rotaxrocket]

You are so right......Thanks for the reply.....:2thumbs:

[ataDude]

...easy, 30 minute install... maybe a little on the loud side... but sounds so much better. The photo flash makes the black look purple... but it's not. Magic Man rocks. :2thumbs:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=282

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=422

[retread]

I sit here and take notes, do comparisons, choose what I want, buy the stuff and add it to the shelves to keep cabin fever away this winter. (if I'm busy, I don't notice the snow and ice). I'm beginning to womder if I can afford all the things I'm finding. Ah, well, told the kids my will reads "being of sound mind and body, I spent it, go make your own!"

[jeuchler]

...easy, 30 minute install... maybe a little on the loud side... but sounds so much better. The photo flash makes the black look purple... but it's not. Magic Man rocks. :2thumbs:

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=422

Hey, ataDude, stop posting photos of my Spyder!

Oh, wait. It can't be my ride--the garage is clean... :joke:

(Looks, sounds, and performs great, doesn't it?!) :thumbup:

[SpydeeBite2]

My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.:shocked:

[bjt]

My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.:shocked:

welcome:cheers:

[Magic Man]

...easy, 30 minute install... maybe a little on the loud side... but sounds so much better. The photo flash makes the black look purple... but it's not. Magic Man rocks. :2thumbs:

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=422


Looking good! :clap: :doorag: :2thumbs:

MM

[blown34]

This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflict permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-throttle-grip.JPG
Did you cut the grips shorter?

[ataDude]

Did you cut the grips shorter?

No, sir....just removed the grip while I was installing the throttle lock (had to drill and tap one 6-32 hole) and then reinstalled to fit.

.

[retread]

Do you remember what size the Grip Puppies you used are? Looks like a good way to go.

[ataDude]

Do you remember what size the Grip Puppies you used are? Looks like a good way to go.

Unfortunately, no. I've had them for 3-4 years - originally bought for an ST-1300.

Sorry.

.

[ataDude]

I just installed the Kewl Metal bar set, including the black billet center piece with silver web. This thing is a work of art!

The install took about three hours... that included a half a pack of Pall Malls Light 100s and three or four sit-down water breaks. It could probably be done in an hour and a half to two hours... but that wouldn't be fun for me.

On a scale of 1 - 10 (10 being most difficult) this is a "5" installation. Most of the time is used in removing the stock stuff ... just like a 1" riser install. The instructions were clear and concise but even so, I had some trouble in removing and reinstalling the plastic key trim. Sometimes I don't read as thoroughly as I should. :opps:

I also used the 5" rise handlebars from Kewl Metal. I was hoping for at least two inches of pull-back and I got it plus a little. The riding position is more upright but not overtly so... just enough for the elbows to slightly bend. For me, this pull-back was very necessary to eliminate the "ax-in-the-shoulder-blades" which usually started after about 150 miles.

Update: I also bought the 7" bars to see the difference. I like the 7" ones even better!

One thing was missing... the stock plastic switch assemblies (both clutch and throttle sides) have a round protrusion on the inside that mate to holes in the stock handlebars. The new bars do not have those alignment holes. You have two choices... drill the holes (one on each side) or grind the plastic protrusion down. I did the latter. You can do either... don't gripe at me.... I'm lazy... and I'm fully cognizant of what I did. I may go back and "pin" the throttle side for safety sake. The clutch side assembly, however, is not connected to the grip... I used HT RTV to reinstall the grip.

IMPORTANT UPDATE: Do NOT grind the plastic protrusion off on the throttle side switch assembly like I mentioned above.... I suggest you drill the hole in the handlebars to match your final mounting location. After further testing today, the entire switch assembly and throttle could slide slide off the bar with enough force... like a high-G curve where you really push it. As Honda says, "Stupid hurts." I wound up opening the switch assembly, marking an appropriate spot, and drilling/tapping a small hidden hole for a "stop bolt" that the assembly will slide against... and stop.

The existing tapped mounting holes on the both sides of the billet center piece were re-tapped by me to 1/4"x20 threads for use of the RAM mount balls. Unfortunately, I only had one 1/4" RAM ball but several 3/8" RAM balls. :shocked: The Valentine One radar detector is mounted on the right. The GPS will be on the left once I get another RAM ball or three. There are also tapped holes on the bottom of the billet piece for more goodies.

The only casualty of the day was my left Grip Puppy. I accidentally ripped it right down the middle when removing the left grip.

Finally, the existing wiring loom is plenty long enough on both sides. The clutch hydraulic line is long enough as well. I did, however, remove the throttle cables from a small frame clip to allow more "slop" for them.

Would I do it again? You can bet your bippy (click here for bippy definition (http://dictionary.infoplease.com/bippy)) I would! :clap::clap::clap::2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=1720
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=281
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=1722

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=1721

[ptoemmes]

Looks nice to say the least.

I assume that you could get more pullback - if needed - if you rotated the bars more?

Are you saying that your hands are 2+ inches further back than stock?

I assume there is more rise than stock - if so - how much?

Any interference with the view in the mirrors?

Thanks,

Pete

[ataDude]

Looks nice to say the least.
Thanks but thank Mad Matt and Big Joe for that!

I assume that you could get more pullback - if needed - if you rotated the bars more?
Yes, sir, a bit but... they also have 7" rise bars, also. If you're looking for more than about 2" back, I'd go with the 7" bars.

Are you saying that your hands are 2+ inches further back than stock?
Yes, sir!

I assume there is more rise than stock - if so - how much?
They're called 5" rise bars but I suspect they're more like 3-4" up and 2" back the way I have them set. Unfortunately, I didn't measure them.

Any interference with the view in the mirrors?
No, sir. I don't think the 7" will cause a problem, either. There is plenty of room to see.

UPDATE: I bought the 7" bars just to compare. I like them better. The throttle cables are a little tight in a full right turn but not enough to cause problems. I removed the BRP 1" riser for a net gain of 1"with these bars.

Thanks,

Pete

No problem.

[ataDude]

My opinions:

THE GOOD

The seats come very well packed in a very large box with extensive molded foam surrounding all of the pieces. I think it would be next to impossible for the shipping companies to damage the product in transit.

As usual, the leather upholstery and overall appearance are excellent. The seat makes striking statements... "LEATHER" and "EXPENSIVE". And, it seems comfortable although I won't be able to test / ride until Saturday.

The foam <used on these seats> appears to be somewhat different from that used on the five or six Corbin seats I've had in the past (I still have one on the Valkyrie). It seems to be a little softer, a little more compliant.

The backrest (I only ordered one) seems to be what I was looking for to provide some support for my beat-up back. <<If not, I'll go to my "stock" of older Corbin backrests and find one that does the job :rolleyes: >> It is adjustable (tilt forward/backward, but not up/down) with an Allen-head set screw. Combined with the Kewl Metal handlebar setup, I think the ride position and comfort will allow for extended rides without too many complaints.

The rear seat bolted right up without problems except for one minor adjustment to the latch pin. The transfer of the rear seat passenger sensor from the stock to the Corbin was easy. See the next section for the front seat.

I did not hook up the electric seat heater, yet. It will be a simple wiring job once the left panel is removed... I already have a fused connection waiting for it in the proper place. I just didn't have the time, today, to remove the panel and finish wiring it. For those who are not familiar with the Corbin heated seat, it has a built-in switch embedded in the seat's left side.

The step-by-step printed installation instructions were adequate.

THE BAD

The four-page step-by-step instructions' pictures were not good... appeared to be copies of copies... making it difficult to view the details. You'd think that for $900+, a nice printed (color?) set of instructions would be provided. However, a good imagination helps. :D

The front seat's alignment was difficult, at best. The two elongated holes/slots used for the main mounting (at the rear of the seat) were all-the-way forward on one, and all-the-way rearward on the other... with no reserve adjustment available. In other words, I was at the absolute limits for installation without pulling out the die grinder and performing a little "surgery". I can see now why Lamont had a difficult time with his install. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5776

As others have already said, forget about re-installing the stock hydraulic seat riser... it is strong enough to torque the seat out of alignment (once you get it there) by 1/4 - 3/8". I gave it three attempts... then taped the riser to the stock seat for box storage. :(

THE UGLY

I have been an avid Corbin fan for a while now, BUT... if I ever opt for another Corbin product, I will order it from a dealer to avoid having to deal directly with Corbin. When I called Corbin, I was immediately asked whether I was a "dealer" or a "rider" before they transferred the calls. What's with that? Are there different / higher priorities for dealers or...?

I hope dealers get better attention and information than I and some others here received... read on. See http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6034&highlight=Corbin+seat+owners for more information. You can draw your own conclusions...some good reports, some bad. It's sporadic, at best.

The Corbin "factory" is in California... "rider" customer service apparently is on the east coast... four time zones apart. When you call, the c/s rep has to contact the factory (by phone or email) and wait for a reply. In my case, I had two excellent c/s reps (thanks J.R. and Sergio!) to help but... they were at the mercy of the factory in terms of timely and accurate information. On at least two occasions, it appeared that the factory reps actually reported incorrect information. On another, the c/s rep could not even get a call back from the "factory" until the next afternoon.

In my opinion, if you have to order a seat, take the time-frame they tell you and add about three weeks to the estimated receipt time. In other words, based on my experience, if they say "five weeks", expect eight weeks and then you won't be disappointed... you might even be pleasantly surprised. Just to be safe, don't plan any trips based on the original date.

My payment was deducted from my credit card when the order was placed... not when the seat was complete or shipped. That's a little unusual for a company this size.

In addition, cash or credit refunds are not provided under any circumstances, according to the "invoice" I received with the seat... exactly eight weeks from order.


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=272
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=1739

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=1738

[bjt]

Not sure how they did things in the past but Corbin is obviously dropping the ball in all aspects of the seat. Poor or erratic fit (DaddyDarko said his went on just fine), customer service is not efficient, long or misrepresented shipping times. Though the seat looks great installed on your Spyder, your report, along with the price, has virtually eliminated Corbin from my 'wanted mods' list.

[Lamonster]

I think you may have passed me in mods Bro. Spyder looks great. :2thumbs:

[Twodog185]

I have yet to see a pic of soomebody sitting on the seat. It appears the backrest is too far back to be useful while riding.

[ataDude]

... If you haven't figured it out yet, I like to "piddle" as much as ride.

I just finished the install of a 4" Supertrapp black muffler (stock # 449-2218) using the Magic Man elbow pipe. I found only one black Supertrapp with a 2.25" inlet that would work... and it's touted as a "universal" and for a car. If you're not familiar with how this thing muffles, see http://www.supertrapp.com/technology/index.asp

Summit Racing was the supplier, the price was right ($141 including shipping), and the shipping was very fast. The same muffler is also available in polished stainless if that rings your bell. See http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUP-449-2218&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Although the pipe inlet is the right size for the Magic Man stainless elbow pipe, I had to fabricate a "hanger" from 1/8" x 1" mild steel. The one I made was about 5.5" long with the two drilled holes on 4.5" centers. You can see it in the pics. I opted not to make a stainless strap hanger as it would scratch the black finish without also incorporating a heat-resistant rubber backing. I also opted not to weld the hanger on "just because". :D

I first removed the sound dampener tube from the muffler body by removing the two allen-head screws at the rear of the muffler. Because this was not a motorcycle-specific muffler, I had to drill a 3/8" hole through the wall of the exhaust about 11.75" from the rear edge to attach the hanger. That's just in front of the inner perf'd tube with the ceramic packing.

I then inserted a 3/8" x 2" carriage-head bolt from the inside and used stainless washers and a stainess nut on the outside of the muffler body to cinch it up tight. Another stainless nut and washer completes the hanger attachment to the muffler. I used a liberal dose of Loc-Tite on these two nuts... I really don't want the thing to come apart at speed and "torpedo" someone following me.

The Supertrapp uses a series of discs to "tune" the exhaust... more discs means more noise, less back pressure and more horsepower. Fewer discs mean less noise, more back pressure and more torque. I started at six discs (they provide 12), worked my way "up" and "down" from a noise perspective... settled for seven. With seven discs, the sound at full throttle is a little louder than a Hindle but quieter than a Micron. UPDATE: I changed back to five discs... seven was a little loud at WOT.

The provided stock end-cap just yells "cheesy". I bought the optional aluminum Supertrapp end-cap ... I looked for a "Snuff-R-Not" (an adjustable end-cap by White Brothers), but they're no longer made. I also painted the Magic Man elbow pipe with flat black, 1200* high temperature paint.

Performance appears better but will find out this weekend when I compare it to a highly modified Suzuki DL1000 ridden by one member of my small riding group. It can barely beat me in a 1/4 mile (5+/- lengths) with any of the stock, Hindle or Micron.

Now, if you want LOUD, don't put the end-cap or discs on... it is rather extreme due to the muffler's shortness... more like insane, actually.

The entire mod/drill/cut/grind/polish/paint/mount job took about three hours.

Note that I left "stuff" on the garage floor this time just for draboo. :clap:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=285
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=286
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2565

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2566
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2567

[bjt]

That exhaust looks sharp ataDude! :2thumbs:

[pphantom538]

Like the muffler. Any possibiltiy of a sound or utube file?

[ataDude]

Like the muffler. Any possibiltiy of a sound or utube file?

Sorry, but I do not have a way to do that. :( But... if you've heard one Trapp, you've heard them all.

I really want to see what it does for performance... this weekend. :2thumbs:

[draboo]

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=1800



IMO,that is the best looking exhaust I ve seen yet on a Spyder,especially after the high temp paint on the elbow.:2thumbs:

side note:Is that a speck of dust I see on the garage floor??:D LOL

[ataDude]

IMO,that is the best looking exhaust I ve seen yet on a Spyder,especially after the high temp paint on the elbow.:2thumbs:

side note:Is that a speck of dust I see on the garage floor??:D LOL

Thanks. Air compressors = good. You should see the rest of the garage, though. :(

Update on the pipe... I originally painted the pipe with the can attached... no big deal, right... a little bit of tape and....

Well, as I cleaned the pipe and muffler with spray brake cleaner, the paint on the muffler just ran off... not too good.

I repainted both with 900* paint and, shazammmmm.... by the time I got to coffee last night with the Crazies (small bike riding group), the paint had already blistered on parts of both the pipe and can. :(

Back to the drawing board... will strip and repaint it with 1200* flat black tomorrow. The new end cap should be here today.

I do like the looks and the sound... mild at idle << at least not embarrassingly loud >> and a nice, somewhat loud growl at throttle (with six discs).... not too bad on the freeway, either.

If I can get the paint right, this may be a keeper.

:2thumbs:

[BRPjunkie]

Since you have had your lights mounted on the suspension arms for some time now, have you had any problems with the vibration causing the bulbs to fail?

[ataDude]

Since you have had your lights mounted on the suspension arms for some time now, have you had any problems with the vibration causing the bulbs to fail?

Not really... had to replace a bulb on the left one but that was immediately after beating :shocked: on it while tinkering. I've run lights on the unsprung parts of other bikes, too, and never had those problems (i.e., lights on the lower fork tubes of an ST-1300).

I did finally come up with a low-tech solution to keeping the light body in place... it would be pointed higher after a spirited ride. A small glob of RTV (not where you can see it) holds it down just fine and... it's not permanent. ;)

Update: I had to replace one that took a rock right in the lens. That could also happen to any light, any mount, including the headlights.

.

[Lamonster]

Do you have a part number for this throttle lock? :doorag:


This is a standard Yamaha-fit throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-throttle-grip.JPG

[ataDude]

Do you have a part number for this throttle lock? :doorag:

I had it for a while but this is it:

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CST&Product_Code=167&Category_Code=Vista-Cruise

They've gone up a bit. I think I paid about $15 in 2003/2004.

How to install:
(1) Use a Dremel (or similar) to cut off the positioning prongs... they don't work on the Spyder.
(2) Remove the right rubber grip ... so you can get a clean shot at drilling later.
(3) File, or grind, off the small ridge molded into the throttle sleeve that's next to the switch assembly.
(4) Install the lock on the throttle sleeve next to the plastic switch assembly box.
(5) Adjust it so it functions correctly... locks when down, slips when up.
(6) PUT IT IN THE LOCKED POSITION to center it up before drilling.
(7) Drill a small hole through the both the lock and the switch box casing side. <The switch casing is about 1/8" thick>. Mark your drill bit with tape so you don't drill too deep into the throttle cables.
(8) Either tap, or use a very short, self-tapping screw to secure. If you use one too long, you can interfere with the throttle operation.
(9) Before you put the grip on, check for proper functioning.
(10) Reinstall grip placing the large plastic washer that came with the throttle lock between the throttle lock and the grip... I used RTV to secure the grip. Leave a little clearance (1/32") between the throttle lock and the grip flange. << Lamont, I know you don't need these instructions but they could help someone else >>

See below for where to drill the small hole mentioned in (7) above (at the bottom... barely visible - which is the idea).
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2528
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=276

The Audiovox died, huh? Any clue on that?

.

[ataDude]

... if you haven't ordered your axle caps yet, you're missing a good trim piece.

As others have already stated, they're standard on the newer roadsters being built. The MSRP: A total of $7 and change including tax. Part numbers 705501022 and 705501081 as was mentioned in another thread by the pioneer. Thanks!

I suggest you also dab a little RTV on the inner stems so you don't lose them on a spirited ride.

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2527
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=268
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=267
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2526

[ataDude]

... Well, those of you who bought Grip Puppies because of me, uh, well, uh....

I accidentally ran across a new grip while ordering stuff for my grip heaters. They are the Sunline Grand Touring grips from California Sport Touring. I used these over the heating elements and I love them. Not too hard, not too soft... shaped just right! $11. (I had previously lost one of the stock grip end-caps... I didn't need to replace it due to these closed-end grips)
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=277
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2525

Heat-Troller:
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3502

This will be the third install of the Symtec Grip Heaters, also from CA Sport Touring. They're about $30. Look closely at the above pic and you can see the wiring exiting from under the grip and tied to the existing cables/wires.

I prefer an infinitely-variable control to an on-off switch. So... as with the past installations, I chose Heat-Troller - a solid state device. It controls the voltage to the grips by pulsing it - not by "burning off" the excess in a resistor. The Heat-Troller is about $55 from the same place.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=287

Use caution concerning other cheaper, non-solid-state controllers... they're variable resistors which get really hot!

BTW, I've never liked the low/off/high switches... the grips, when in use, were always too cool or too hot.

I've never had problems with either part of this set up. However, I suggest you use HIGH TEMP RTV to put the grips back on over the heating elements.


http://www.casporttouring.com/store/graphics/00000002/symtecl.jpghttp://www.casporttouring.com/store/graphics/00000001/heat-troller_handgrip.jpg

<< Disclaimer: I'm not associated with CST but wish I was on commission. >> :D

Did you notice that the Spyder is yellow this week? :spyder:
.

[katnapper]

I have used Hyper-Lites << for brakes >> on most of my previous bikes. On my customized Valk, I even use them as << turn signals >>.

Other folks can see these from as far as a mile away. I opted to mount just one on the Spyder... high and in the middle... with a home-made "U bracket" made from .020" thick x 1" wide stainless. The mount is fairly "invisible" unless you look from underneath.

After complaints from some of my riding buds, I now "snip the green HL wire" so that they blink for about five seconds instead of constantly.



Thanks for all you postings! These mods show me that "do it yourself" mods can look good! Yours look GREAT!:2thumbs:

[ataDude]

Thanks for all you postings! These mods show me that "do it yourself" mods can look good! Yours look GREAT!:2thumbs:

Thanks!
.

[ataDude]

If you don't want to possibly affect your emissions, skip this post! :joke:

My Spyder as had an annoying lean idle surge of about 200 RPM since new... BUDS said nothing was wrong... everything in spec. Well, that wasn't the right answer.

I installed the Evoluzion O2 Eliminator this afternoon to see what it would do. The theory is that the "black box" tricks the Spyder's fuel injection processor into making the fuel mixture a little richer.

It apparently works... and works well. As soon as I fired the Spyder up, the idle was consistently at 1400 RPM with no more than a 50 RPM variation... all the way up through five bars on the temperature gauge. No more wild swings... it's not even noticeable now.

It's a relatively painless install if you read the instructions. I did not.... again. :opps: You'd think I'd learn... finally. I made it more work than necessary. This should be about a 30-45 minute job at worst.

The kit contains a plug for the O2 sensor in the header pipe. It is in the center of the bike just ahead of where the 90* muffler pipe connects to the header... and points toward the front of the bike. Remove the O2 sensor and insert the plug with the provided gasket/washer. No big deal. And yes, you do want to use the plug as Evoluzione has stated that the stock O2 sensor can be damaged by just using it as a plug. Package it up and store it in case you ever want to go back to stock configuration!

The electrical connection is accessible by removing the flat black plastic fender panel under the seat... the one that the two glossy side panels connect to... the one just above the tire... the one with the three Torx-head bolts on each side. You don't have to remove the side panels!

Once that single panel is removed, you'll find two stock plug connections behind the battery... one two-wire and one four-wire. The four-wire connection is the target. Unplug, plug in the eliminator, attach the eliminator to the frame with the provided 3M dual lock fastener, and button the bike back up. You're good to go.

Update 8/16/2008: Logged about 300 miles today in all driving conditions... slow, fast, city, country. The 200 rpm surge is back. :( However, the seat-of-pants dyno thinks the bike runs stronger.

Update 12/2008: The surge was caused by a faulty Gear Position Sensor. See this thread for what else was affected... and cured. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7831

Update 8/20/2008: I uninstalled the eliminator today during a throttle-body sync. No difference. Using a TwinMax synchronizer, I found the TBs right on in terms of adjustment.

Project difficulty: On a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult), this is a "2" assuming you read the directions.

Happier motoring! :thumbup:

Click here for http://evoluzione.net/evo-cycle.htm

[katnapper]

... if you haven't ordered your axle caps yet, you're missing a good trim piece.

As others have already stated, they're standard on the newer roadsters being built. The MSRP: A total of $7 and change including tax. Part numbers 705501022 and 705501081 as was mentioned in another thread by the pioneer. Thanks!

Ok, got the part numbers but where do I get them?:dontknow:

[ataDude]

Ok, got the part numbers but where do I get them?:dontknow:

Your Can-Am dealer. I just sent mine an email and four days later I had 'em.

[NancysToy]

Update 8/16/2008: Logged about 300 miles today in all driving conditions... slow, fast, city, country. The 200 rpm surge is back. :( However, the seat-of-pants dyno thinks the bike runs stronger.
Sounds like a throttle body sychronization problem. The BMW R1100RT and R1150RT models are renowned for throttle surge. The best way around it is to make sure the throttle bodies are absolutely synchronized, and that the throttle cables are both exactly at zero play, or very close to it. There is more discussion of this on the BMW forums. Get somebody who is experienced with tuning throttle body injection, and have them play with it a bit. BTW, our Spyder has never shown a surge, but it has stock exhaust.
-Scotty

[ataDude]

Sounds like a throttle body sychronization problem. The BMW R1100RT and R1150RT models are renowned for throttle surge. The best way around it is to make sure the throttle bodies are absolutely synchronized, and that the throttle cables are both exactly at zero play, or very close to it. There is more discussion of this on the BMW forums. Get somebody who is experienced with tuning throttle body injection, and have them play with it a bit. BTW, our Spyder has never shown a surge, but it has stock exhaust.
-Scotty

HA! That's exactly what I was thinking. I have a dual gauge coming on Tuesday (just borrowed for now). My Spyder does it regardless of exhaust... stock, Micron, Hindle and Supertrapp. It's just more noticeable on the louder ones.

I moved last year and can't find my four-column mercury gauge. Mercury is on the loose somewhere. :shocked: :shocked: :shocked:

Thanks!
.

[Spyderman62]

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

The nest time you want to install a set of Grip Puppies, try using compressed air. Simply put the nozzle in the open end while pushing the other end onto the existing grip. Then squeeze the remainder of the grip around the nozzle, and squeeze trigger to allow air to flow - lots of air to flow. The air blast will swell the grip puppy and allow you to push it onto the existing grip. Hope this helps.

[ataDude]

...try using compressed air....

Thanks.

.

[brooklyn z]

Nice mods.

[ataDude]

Nice mods.

Thanks!

.

[ataDude]

Scotty - any other ideas? I checked the throttle bodies sync today with a TwinMax and they were right on. Even tweaked them a little but wound up right back at the factory settings.

BTW, read the BMW forums about their syncs. On the Spyder, there is no adjustment to sync the butterflies... they're on the same pivot rod that runs through both TBs. Also, there's only one pull cable to that pivot rod. And one butterfly "stop" for the same rod. I took pics and may get them up in the next couple of days.

I also replaced the plugs while I had it apart. Did you guys know that the plug on the right side can only be accessed by completely removing the airbox... not just the top cover? :( This is another one of those hidden, fairly-limited-space-thingies... like the handlebar cover... to get to the six Torx-head bolts holding the housing to the TBs.

Ideas? (Already done the processor reset multiple times).




Sounds like a throttle body sychronization problem. The BMW R1100RT and R1150RT models are renowned for throttle surge. The best way around it is to make sure the throttle bodies are absolutely synchronized, and that the throttle cables are both exactly at zero play, or very close to it. There is more discussion of this on the BMW forums. Get somebody who is experienced with tuning throttle body injection, and have them play with it a bit. BTW, our Spyder has never shown a surge, but it has stock exhaust.
-Scotty

[NancysToy]

Scotty - any other ideas? I checked the throttle bodies sync today with a TwinMax and they were right on. Even tweaked them a little but wound up right back at the factory settings.

BTW, read the BMW forums about their syncs. On the Spyder, there is no adjustment to sync the butterflies... they're on the same pivot rod that runs through both TBs. Also, there's only one pull cable to that pivot rod. And one butterfly "stop" for the same rod. I took pics and may get them up in the next couple of days.

I also replaced the plugs while I had it apart. Did you guys know that the plug on the right side can only be accessed by completely removing the airbox... not just the top cover? :( This is another one of those hidden, fairly-limited-space-thingies... like the handlebar cover... to get to the six Torx-head bolts holding the housing to the TBs.

Ideas? (Already done the processor reset multiple times).
Boy, you have me on this one. I must admit that most of my experience is limited to carbs on vintage bikes, so I'm no expert. It is possible that it could be sensor related, I suppose. I understand the idle speed is controlled by the computer. I will say that not all of them do this. Ours runs very smoothly, and I am very familiar with throttle surge. I think you may need to keep leaning on the dealer, until they switch out all the possible culprits, or request assistance from BRP. Sorry I couldn't help more.
-Scotty

[ataDude]

Boy, you have me on this one. I must admit that most of my experience is limited to carbs on vintage bikes, so I'm no expert. It is possible that it could be sensor related, I suppose. I understand the idle speed is controlled by the computer. I will say that not all of them do this. Ours runs very smoothly, and I am very familiar with throttle surge. I think you may need to keep leaning on the dealer, until they switch out all the possible culprits, or request assistance from BRP. Sorry I couldn't help more.
-Scotty

Thanks! The only other thing I've come up with is one other example of bad header gaskets causing a similar symptom. I'll let the dealer check it again on the next service.

[Ibeebuzn]

We all appreciate new ideas and new ways of doing things. It encourages me to tackle things I wouldn't otherwise do. Thanks again.

[Ibeebuzn]

Thanks for sharing all your ideas and mods. It helps me to do other things that I wouldn't normally do. It's very encouraging. Thanks again.

[ataDude]

Thanks for sharing all your ideas and mods. It helps me to do other things that I wouldn't normally do. It's very encouraging. Thanks again.

No problem. Most may be "original" for the Spyder but not for motorcycles. Some I have done repeatedly on the 27 or so bikes I've owned in the past.

.

[chrisms100]

I sit here and take notes, do comparisons, choose what I want, buy the stuff and add it to the shelves to keep cabin fever away this winter. (if I'm busy, I don't notice the snow and ice). I'm beginning to womder if I can afford all the things I'm finding. Ah, well, told the kids my will reads "being of sound mind and body, I spent it, go make your own!"
Funny - sounds like you need to get a snowmobile for the winter. I got my Spyder because it's the next best thing to snowmobiling. (Well, they're tied now):doorag:

[spydeebike]

NICE PIPE, HAVE ONE ON ORDER, CANT WAIT

[ataDude]

NICE PIPE, HAVE ONE ON ORDER, CANT WAIT

You might want to re-think that unless you're willing to have the pipe and muffler ceramic-coated. I can't keep paint on the pipe... even 1200* paint... and the paint on the muffler discolors at the front and rear from the heat.

.

[ataDude]

... Exhaust, chapter 4:

I just finished the cut/weld/grind necessary to install the Yamaha/Star Road Star Warrior exhaust... thanks to the ideas of Lamont and a few others!

This can is chrome plated... I prefer black... but it is suitable and different... I like different. I also had a Midnight Warrior (black) exhaust to experiment on... it had a small dent from shipping in just the wrong spot.

I also like the construction of the muffler... my crappy welding job is well hidden after the reassembly of the various muffler parts. < BJT and Lamont can't make fun of my welding... they can't see it! :D >

I used the Magic Man 90* pipe in conjunction with a standard 2.5" x 2.25" exhaust pipe reducer. The reducer was welded onto the muffler after chopping the stock inlet off with a die grinder.

Sound? ... very much like stock... it may, in fact, be a little quieter.

Size? It's probably a little bigger and heavier than stock... it was, after all, made for a 1700cc twin.

A hangar was made from 1/8" x 1" mild steel with holes on 8" centers. That then bolted right up to both the muffler and the frame without trouble.

A ride report will be forthcoming tomorrow after the high-temp RTV (joint seal) is cured.

Ride update, 19-Sep: I like it... will be a great touring muffler as it is quieter than the stock. It is about the size, however, of a 155mm howitzer. :D

I came out of a cafe today after a late breakfast to find 15 folks (the most I've seen so far) gathered around. Among the positive comments: "Man, that's a huge muffler".

So far, so good on the crappy welding job! :clap:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=288
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3503

[bjt]

Ahhh...... This brings back memories of when I first joined SpyderLovers and lamonster and others were just starting to add mods to their Spyders. Those Warrior pipes were all the rage for a short time on SpyderLovers.

[ataDude]

... I originally bought the mid-size Calsci windshield as a winter shield. However, after a week or so I realized that it would not keep me sufficiently "insulated" in the winter. Mark (Calsci) even offered to swap it out (no charge) for the largest one. For whatever reason, I declined his generous offer.

Now that I've had it on for a month and a half, it occurred to me that this is the perfect three-season shield for me... keep in mind my riding position is relatively straight-up due to the Corbin seat and 7" Kewl Metal bar set-up. The design eliminates all helmet buffeting but provides some relatively smooth air for cooling.

I have come to really, really, really like this shield. Construction and fit is excellent!

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=290
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3499

.

[ataDude]

Now... are you wondering what chapter 5 will include? :D



Ahhh...... This brings back memories of when I first joined SpyderLovers and lamonster and others were just starting to add mods to their Spyders. Those Warrior pipes were all the rage for a short time on SpyderLovers.

[ataDude]

.... I've had these on for a month or more. I can only say:

How did I live without 'em? :clap: :clap:

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3501
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=289
.

[ataDude]

.... I found a small "Cargo" brand tank bag at CycleGear a month or so ago. However, it did not fit the Spyder's "hump" correctly.

After a little carving, and one screw, it fits the back of the Corbin standard backrest just dandy. It's perfect for cell phone, cigs, and other small stuff with two side pockets, one rear pocket and one large center pocket.

This is probably not for you if you have a passenger. I don't have to worry about that as I have yet to find anyone to sign my standard liability release form. :rolleyes:

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3500

.

[ataDude]

... someone posted this a few months back and I finally purchased them.

:thumbup: This is one product that seems to be priced very high to actual cost... but it is a low-volume item and... its price-to-value is worthwhile to me.

If you're an aggressive rYder, in high-speed curves you are probably (should be) tucking your toes under the brake pedal and shift lever and gripping the plastic with your knees. As you've found out, the plastic is pretty slick. This rubber-like anti-slip surface really works very well.

The install is relatively simple as there is an adhesive already on the back of the thin "pad" (it's not for cushioning... it's for gripping!). Follow the included instructions and it's done in five minutes.

Shipping was fast via USPS from the manufacturer: http://www.techspec-usa.com/products/gs_brp.html

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=291

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3702
.

[ataDude]

.... I must be slacking off. This week the only new goody is a Stebel air horn. It's approximately 6" cubed and is a heavy current draw... instructions say to use a 30 amp fuse... so I did.

I had several electrical problems with this install... probably because of the Spyder's CAN-BUS electrical system. So... I did a little more than one would usually do to hook up a horn. For example, one continuing problem that resulted from hooking it up to my accessory-switched add-on fuse box entailed the horn continuously honking after the 15-second delay ended for the switched power. Strange stuff from the CAN-BUS system.

I wound up leaving the the stock horn intact... so that the "system" would be dual tone. The Stebel states it is a 300 m/h horn... the stock is about 500-600 m/h. They sound good together.

The stock horn is negatively-switched (surprise). In order to overcome the Can-Bus gremlins, I tapped both the positive and negative connections at the stock horn and ran the new wires back to the relay (supplied with the Stebel). I also used a direct battery connection for a power supply instead of one of my open fuse circuits. Ground for the horn also comes directly from the battery.

The relay connections used were as follows:
#30 - positive directly from battery (fused at 30 amps)
#86 - positive from tapping into the existing horn
#85 - negative from tapping into the existing horn
#87 - positive to the Stebel's positive terminal

A separate ground wire from the battery was run to the negative Stebel horn terminal.

Mounting: only one hole needed to be drilled for mounting using the bolt/nut that came with the horn. See the second picture.

This is not one of the high-toned motorcycle-specific horns. It does sound like a car or truck. I like it! :D

BTW, I purchased it on eBay (with a spare) for about $45 each, shipped. Search "stebel truck" and you'll find it. I have used "Freeway Blasters" (non-air) on other bikes and they are about the same as this.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=278
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=279

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3769
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3770

[bjt]

Dang. 30 amps for a horn. I'd invest in some good ear protection. :shocked::hun:

[ataDude]

I was surprised, too. It is loud but not that much louder than the "Freeway Blasters" from Pep Boys.


Dang. 30 amps for a horn. I'd invest in some good ear protection. :shocked::hun:

[ataDude]

... I finally found a black, very high-temp paint/ceramic coating that works... that won't burn off of the exhaust elbow or Supertrapp muffler. O'Reilly Auto Parts has it in my area as well as Summit Racing online.
http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/vht-flameproof-coating/vht-flameproof-coatings-lrg.jpg


Update 3/2009: I found a better solution. Works well, applies evenly and produces a better result that lasts longer:
http://www.designengineering.com/images/products/HTsilicone_main.jpg

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5753

[bjt]

Glad you found that. I was going to post a similar product I saw in the Motosports catalog I just got. DEI silicone coating. Its listed as good for up to 1500 degrees.

[ataDude]

... I just installed "araneae"...Bryan's... highway peg mount. Very easy to install (15 minutes) and will serve it's purposes well. Contact "araneae" on this forum for his current price. The "stubs" that extend out to the side, BTW, were already threaded 1/2" x 20 tpi. Bryan does provide another metric threaded option, I think.

I spent an hour or so browsing the local Harley mega-dealership for options. I informed the parts guy what I was making and he was more than helpful to someone without a HD... great service!

These HD accessories are what I used for my pegs:

1. 34023-08 HD Black billet shift and brake lever SET, MSRP $129.95; and
2. 34690-08 HD Diamond Black Shifter Pegs, MSRP 16.95 each, times two.

As always, I wanted something just a little different and BLACK. Sooner or later, there will be NO silver on my tricycle.

I wouldn't want to stand on these but... for intermittent change of feet position, these work well... plus they look just downright cool.

As an added "plus", they are locked in place two ways... (1) 1/2"x20 jam nuts on the back sides and (2) pinch bolts built into the levers. I did have to tap the large HD lever holes to match Bryan's mounts... that's no big deal IF you have the 1/2"x20 tap.

My lower leg position is relatively straight-up (knees at a 90* angle) with my feet on the new pegs. http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3957
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=283
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=284
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3952
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3953

[ataDude]

... did you ever want to tone down your exhaust for trips?

A week ago, I ground down a shower drain cap (see below) to fit (forcefully) between the 90* Hindle pipe and the stock head pipe. If you buy a 3" drain ($3-$4 at your hardware store), grinding is minimal to match the required 2.875" needed for a force fit.

End result? A slightly more subdued exhaust note (-3-5 db) at cruising speed but it still retains the "bark" with some throttle. There was no noticeable decrease in performance or engine heat.

UPDATE: Use a thick steel version. I burned the brass one totally out on a three-day trip.

http://images.builderssquare.com/Detail/0/8/895/8895774_Detail.jpg

[Bimjo]

Now there's some pegs I could imagine using. Unlike most you see that make it look like you're riding a 55 gallon drum. ;)

[ataDude]

Now there's some pegs I could imagine using. Unlike most you see that make it look like you're riding a 55 gallon drum. ;)

That's why I liked Bryan's mount... legs are not spread wide apart.

.

[bjt]

Now there's some pegs I could imagine using. Unlike most you see that make it look like you're riding a 55 gallon drum. ;)


:agree:

[retread]

When I put Grip Puppies on, I use a long, thin screwdriver, and slide it around the inside of the Puppie as I slide it on. Both Puppies go on in less than 5 minutes. 'Course, that's with the soapy water. In fact, the right hand one went on far enough that it would act like a cruise control for a few seconds.

[ataDude]

... Well, I said I liked black exhausts better. ;)

This one is from a Yahama/Star "Midnight" Warrior... all black. It was easier (and probably cheaper) to buy than to try to ceramic coat the chrome one.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=309

[ataDude]

... I'd probably never buy another Corbin product... I should have listened to myself. See this post for background: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43044&postcount=38

This is the Corbin rear fender available for $229 + shipping. I was going to make one but... instead I bought.

The gelcoat finish is excellent as well as the "semi-frenched" in license plate and LED plate lights. The pearlized yellow color matches the factory paint exactly.

The LED license frame comes chrome from Corbin... I painted it black to match the bike. It does light the license plate very well.

On-line order to receipt at my house was seven days. They've improved their delivery!

But, the fit is not particularly good and the install is a bear.

Install: Corbin opted to mold in the mounting bolts instead of having "through" bolts like the stock fender. While the look is better, the install is a bugger if you have normal (or large) sized hands. I had to first secure the mounting washers with long needle-nose pliers and RTV, then play with the mounting nuts for a couple of hours (there's only four!) to get the thing mounted. An easier and less time consuming / frustrating install probably involves the removal of the side brackets from the bike first -or- removing the rear wheel. Either option is also time consuming.

Fit: Note the gap on the second picture (red arrow). This is not an installation problem... the fender mold is too thick at the front mounting bolts to allow a flush... or even close-to-flush fit. Because the mounting bolts are molded in, there's no easy way to grind the inside of the fender down to make a better fit. At least the gap is the same on both sides. :( The next time I tinker, I will place a few washers between the rear/lower fender mounts and the fender, itself, to make the gap the same as the top/upper.

Wiring: The LED wiring goes through the fender and exits within 1/2" of the tire. Some extra work is required to secure it out of the way... I used RTV to "cement" the wires out of the way of the tire. However, the shrink-wrapped wire does appear to be subject to probable destruction with a little mud or a few rocks. Again, the next time I tinker and have this off, I will make a cover of some sort for the wiring to help prevent damage.

Style: Although an optical illusion, the lower tip seems to flair out instead of staying in sync with the curve of the tire. Weird. Overall, I'll keep it... particularly as Corbin doesn't allow for refunds. See the above embedded post.

Instructions: Although this is a relatively simple (but time-consuming) install, there were NO instructions regarding whether or not to use the inner fender panel (I didn't... I didn't want to cut it)... or anything, for that matter. Nada, none, zip.

More troubles here: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=63725&postcount=110

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=310
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=311
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=312

[ataDude]

... Chapter Six, Exhaust Fetish. :clap:

I just finished with the twin Supertrapp system... I'll call it the "One Brother Exhaust" -or- the sideways Y factor... >- :D

There's approximately 25-30 hours of my labor involved in making/welding/grinding/painting the junction, heat shield and 1/8" thick x 1" wide mild steel hangers and muffler "joiners".

I used a 2-1 exhaust junction (2.25 OD x 2 and 2.5" OD) from SummitRacing.com along with another welded-in 2.5" ID x 2.25 ID reducer. The manufacturer's (Dynamax) welding was as crappy looking as mine so a heat-shield was needed to cover the welding. BTW, the correct junction with all of the right sizes was not available... at least that I could find.

The formed heat shield with my desired curved edges represented the biggest challenge. McMaster-Carr (internet) was the supplier of the perforated aluminum (.050" thick with 1/16" holes) along with the threaded heat-shield stand-offs which were then welded onto the junction. Service was fast... two days from order to receipt.

The shield was formed by using a rubber mallet; and 2", 2.5" and 3" PVC pipe as the "anvil". The shield covers all of the welds plus the three band clamps. I'll need to make a trip to the local specialty hardware store this coming week for some black oxide hardware and some stainless acorn nuts. I used what I had for now to put it together.

In the future, I may have another try at a slightly different design in the heat shield.

Finally, only three disks were used per pipe... to keep the sound down. The results? It sounds a lot like the Hindle. See the other Supertrapp post in this thread for how the sound is affected by these disks.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=342
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=341
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=343

.

[bjt]

Pretty slick. I'm not sure what kind of welder you have but a decent MIG welder and a grinder should allow you to produce nice looking weld joints and clean up a production piece's welds. I'm only saying this because I would like to see this setup without the heatshield.

[ataDude]

Pretty slick. I'm not sure what kind of welder you have but a decent MIG welder and a grinder should allow you to produce nice looking weld joints and clean up a production piece's welds. I'm only saying this because I would like to see this setup without the heatshield.

Hey, Brian. I have a 110V Lincoln .035 wire welder... it's MIG capable but not equipped.

I would never let anyone see this junction without the cover... unless its from 50 feet away. No binoculars allowed. :D

I have an idea for the next version that will keep welding to a minimum... just one "all-the-way-around" weld instead of three. I am getting better, though, at welding. I've never had a problem with structural soundness... only appearance.

It did make me feel a little better that the factory's weld was just as crappy as mine. In fact, I had to repair a hole in theirs. :(

When I re-did the Valk, I was brand new to welding... in fact, that's why I bought the Lincoln... sheet metal only. That job was 100% sheet metal so I could weld, then grind flat and "erase" the crappy weld. I would think on exhaust seams that the weld should remain for structural purposes.

[Roaddog2]

... Chapter Six, Exhaust Fetish. :clap:

I just finished with the twin Supertrapp system... I'll call it the "One Brother Exhaust" -or- the sideways Y factor... >- :D

There's approximately 25-30 hours of my labor involved in making/welding/grinding/painting the junction, heat shield and 1/8" thick x 1" wide mild steel hangers and muffler "joiners".

I used a 2-1 exhaust junction (2.25 OD x 2 and 2.5" OD) from SummitRacing.com along with another welded-in 2.5" ID x 2.25 ID reducer. The manufacturer's (Dynamax) welding was as crappy looking as mine so a heat-shield was needed to cover the welding. BTW, the correct junction with all of the right sizes was not available... at least that I could find.

The formed heat shield with my desired curved edges represented the biggest challenge. McMaster-Carr (internet) was the supplier of the perforated aluminum (.050" thick with 1/16" holes) along with the threaded heat-shield stand-offs which were then welded onto the junction. Service was fast... two days from order to receipt.

The shield was formed by using a rubber mallet; and 2", 2.5" and 3" PVC pipe as the "anvil". The shield covers all of the welds plus the three band clamps. I'll need to make a trip to the local specialty hardware store this coming week for some black oxide hardware and some stainless acorn nuts. I used what I had for now to put it together.

In the future, I may have another try at a slightly different design in the heat shield.

Finally, only three disks were used per pipe... to keep the sound down. The results? It sounds a lot like the Hindle. See the other Supertrapp post in this thread for how the sound is affected by these disks.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=342
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=341
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=343

.:2thumbs:

[bjt]

Hey, Brian. I have a 110V Lincoln .035 wire welder... it's MIG capable but not equipped.

I would never let anyone see this junction without the cover... unless its from 50 feet away. No binoculars allowed. :D

I have an idea for the next version that will keep welding to a minimum... just one "all-the-way-around" weld instead of three. I am getting better, though, at welding. I've never had a problem with structural soundness... only appearance.

It did make me feel a little better that the factory's weld was just as crappy as mine. In fact, I had to repair a hole in theirs. :(

When I re-did the Valk, I was brand new to welding... in fact, that's why I bought the Lincoln... sheet metal only. That job was 100% sheet metal so I could weld, then grind flat and "erase" the crappy weld. I would think on exhaust seams that the weld should remain for structural purposes.


I tried using one of those 110volt wire welders before and I couldn't weld very good with it either. I don't think it had enough oomph to weld the metal I was trying to join together. I'm not sure if it would have worked any better setup as a MIG welder or not. Most of the MIG welders I've used were in a welding business / factory. They ran off of 240volts and probably cost at least a few thousand dollars. Those ones can do a very nice job on thin metal or pipe. At my home, I have one of those old Lincoln 225 stick welders. I'm not sure how well it would work on exhaust pipe butt welds but it works good on heavier metal, pipe and tubing.

I wonder if brazing would be strong enough for exhaust pipe?

[ataDude]

I tried using one of those 110volt wire welders before and I couldn't weld very good with it either. I don't think it had enough oomph to weld the metal I was trying to join together. I'm not sure if it would have worked any better setup as a MIG welder or not. Most of the MIG welders I've used were in a welding business / factory. They ran off of 240volts and probably cost at least a few thousand dollars. Those ones can do a very nice job on thin metal or pipe. At my home, I have one of those old Lincoln 225 stick welders. I'm not sure how well it would work on exhaust pipe butt welds but it works good on heavier metal, pipe and tubing.

I wonder if brazing would be strong enough for exhaust pipe?

I have an idea for version 2 which would reduce welding to one joint (maybe two) and dramatically reduce the size of the heat shield... if it's even needed.

Stay tuned... have already ordered the raw parts. :yes::yes::yes:

Regarding ooomp... it seems to have plenty... have welded the grinder stand post to the base... worked well. Also 1/4" thick steel... no problem as long as the edges are beveled.

I just love this stuff. I used to be a mid-level exec in a Fortune 50 company... but this stuff... this is fun!

.

[NancysToy]

I tried using one of those 110volt wire welders before and I couldn't weld very good with it either. I don't think it had enough oomph to weld the metal I was trying to join together. I'm not sure if it would have worked any better setup as a MIG welder or not. Most of the MIG welders I've used were in a welding business / factory. They ran off of 240volts and probably cost at least a few thousand dollars. Those ones can do a very nice job on thin metal or pipe. At my home, I have one of those old Lincoln 225 stick welders. I'm not sure how well it would work on exhaust pipe butt welds but it works good on heavier metal, pipe and tubing.

I wonder if brazing would be strong enough for exhaust pipe?
My wire welder is 110V, too. OK for small stuff, but not as controllable as the more expensive jobs. Big difference if you use it on clean metal as a MIG welder with inert gas, instead of using flux-cored wire. Wish I could afford a TIG. Handy as a shirt pocket, though. I also have a Lincoln buzz-box, and that is difficult on small stuff, although with practice it will do heavy stainless sheet metal. Easy to blow a hole. Old-fashioned gas welding suits me the best, but I am horribly out of practice. Those welds hammer down so nicely. No need to grind. I have torches, too, and have brazed exhausts, but they don't hold up, even with lap welds. The braze eventually cracks from the different expansion rates and the vibration. In the end, it is like the clarinet, you have to practice a lot to be good. I take mine to someone who welds daily if it needs to be pretty.
-Scotty

[ataDude]

... different construction, 10* welded angle on intake for more "up-sweep", smaller heat shield and back to flat black (easier to maintain and fix rock chips):
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=636
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=638
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=637

.

[NancysToy]

Very professional job. Nice!
-Scotty

[ataDude]

Very professional job. Nice!
-Scotty

Thanks! I got pretty darn close to a "no-heat-shield-to-cover-welding" situation but... no cigar. :D

[LDFIREWORKS]

PRETTY DAME COOL GOOD JOB

[ataDude]

... installed today. Keep in mind this is my winter shield... I will continue to use my medium CalSci for three seasons.

Unless you have three hands, you'll need to use contact cement or RTV to afix the rubber washers to the brackets before trying to install the shield.

Update: In retrospect, install the windshield brackets to the windshield, then install that assembly to the bike. Two hands will suffice without contact cement. Why am I always smarter after I'm finished? :pray:

Road test will be tomorrow... 200 miles with temps as low as 30*.

Update: Now with several hundred miles, I can safely say that this is a great winter windshield... great protection and easy adjustment. The "problem" mentioned in another thread with holding the adjustment "set" was resolved by using a stainless steel "star" lock washer on each of the top two adjustment bolts between the sliding sheet metal parts.

Pic 1: Install base bracket to bike using stock Torx screws:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=430

Pic 2: Install windshield brackets to base bracket:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=431

Pic 3: After install of windshield to brackets... from the front. I recommend using blue Loc-Tite for these screws/nuts:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=432

Pic 4: After install from the side:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=433

[LDFIREWORKS]

lights look greathttp://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=275
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=424
http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-fuse.JPG[/quote]

[LDFIREWORKS]

st everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. ::)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=275
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=424
http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-fuse.JPG[/quote]

[bjt]

Cool ataDude. Since they've supposedly changed the mechanism design since the initial demo videos, can you tell me if it adjusts the same as in those videos or not? Even though I'm sure you aren't supposed to, how easy would it be to adjust it while riding? Can't wait to get your ride report.

[ataDude]

Cool ataDude. Since they've supposedly changed the mechanism design since the initial demo videos, can you tell me if it adjusts the same as in those videos or not? Even though I'm sure you aren't supposed to, how easy would it be to adjust it while riding? Can't wait to get your ride report.

Hey, Brian. Didn't get to ride today... later on that part. Sorry.

It still adjusts the way the original video showed (Shawn)... up/down and angles front/back. It uses thumb screws to hold/release... I don't think it would be easy to adjust while riding... might be downright unsafe.

Build quality appears excellent...their welding is far above mine. :D However, it is big and for winter only.

.

[ataDude]

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Original post: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=58440&postcount=93
----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I ran across another "routine" job (yesterday and today) that is impacted by the design of the Corbin fender... a rear tire change.

Other than the fender-related stuff, the removal and reinstall of the rear wheel is not that big a job... maybe a "4" on a scale of 10 and 1.5 hours total (both off and on)... with the proper tools.

However, the fender "engineering" comes into play yet again... the part where the mounting bolts are molded into the fender, not "through" the fender as the stock mounting bolts are. What a pain!

With a tire change, fiddling with it is a little better than the original install if you actually remove the axle (once you remove the brake caliper from its mount <two 13mm bolts> and loosen the alignment bolts by about ten full turns) and drop the tire down for clearance... but it's still a pain.

My dealer would have charged $75 +/- for normal removal and install "on-the-bike" which is a fair price with the stock fender. I wanted to do the first one just to see what extra time would be involved. My guess, without breaks, cokes or smokes, an extra hour of labor would be fair. All of a sudden, that $75 would turn into $170 in this market... with the Corbin fender.

Fixes:

1. I mentioned in the first post that the very thin (24 guage?) Corbin license light wiring was exposed to dirt, mud and rocks from the rear tire. That's not good particularly as the wiring is within 1" of the tire itself.

While I had the fender off this time, I covered the exposed wire with four layers of duct tape and then sealed the edges and tape seams with RTV. Good old duct tape... a million uses. I thought using about a 1/8" ID small tube, or conduit, but took the duct tape/RTV option as I figured it was "flatter" and would be more resistant to mud.

BTW, if you've never used Posi-Locks and Posi-Taps before, buy some... you'll love 'em for minor electrical connections. Google "Posi-Lock" for more information. I found them not too long ago and absolutely could not do without them, now.

2. As I also mentioned before, the original fit to the fender mounts left wide gaps due to construction. My trusty large rubber mallet and giant Vise-Grips took care of that fit with a little work on the fender mounts... not the fender! It does look somewhat better now. But... if I ever wanted to go back to the stock fender, I'd have to re-bend/fit the mounts.

This fender is not an accessory for the person (1) who can't perform his own fitting, (2) who doesn't want to beat on his/her Spyder with a rubber mallet or (3) who is a perfectionist (it will drive you nuts thinking that you paid $229 plus shipping for it).
.

[ataDude]

... I installed the heavy-duty sway bar ($230, Evoluzion.net) last week but didn't have an opportunity for a road test until today. It is advertised as about 30% stiffer than stock.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=492
This photo courtesy of Evoluzione.net

After about 125 miles of mild-to-wild farm roads, I can only say this "upgrade" is definitely well worth the money if you are an aggressive rider. There is a noticeable reduction in "lean" throughout a curve... all the way from the initial entry to the exit.

Note that this is a "performance" mod! If you don't push your Roadster through the twisties, I'm not too sure what this mod will buy you. But..... I'm glad I have it!

The installation can occur without totally removing the front trunk if you have a decent jack. I jacked the front of the bike up about 1-1.5 feet and used jack stands under the front suspension. Both front, upper black panels (the ones with the air intake and/or fog lights) and the wrap-around, flat-black nose plastic were then removed to access the sway bar from underneath.

After removing the front plastic nose from the mounting points, you can use a very large screwdriver or wrench to "lever" the trunk up and forward by about 1-1.5"... enough to remove the old bar and install the new one.

There are only four 13mm (wrench size) bolts/nuts used to bolt the sway bar to the frame (along with the plastic bushings)... and then two more 13mm bolts/nuts that connect the sway bar to the small tie rods.

Removal/installation without removing the trunk is a little more tedious but pretty much an even swap of time. My front-mounted fuse block (see first post in this thread) would have caused a dramatic increase of time in removing the trunk.

Note that there are two mounting options... "stiff" and "stiffer". :D Using the inner mounting holes (for the tie rod connections) on each end of the sway bar is the "stiffer" option.

Sorry, but I didn't take pictures along the way. However, the below pic shows one of the two frame mounting points from the fully-assembled left side.

Oops... I forgot to clean the A-arm covers. Sloppy. :opps:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=486

[dogtired]

... different construction, semi-gloss ceramic, smaller heat shield:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=399
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=400
.

Looks almost '06 Kawasaki Z1000-like...might be visually cool to have it on both sides ala the Z1000...dunno about the performance, tho. Nice mods ataDude!

http://www.seastarsuperbikes.co.uk/KAWASAKIMODELS/Kawasaki%20%2006%20800/ZR1000a/06zr1000a_sil_rs800.jpg

[ataDude]

... Nice mods ataDude!...

Thanks! I may make another version (soon or later) where the pipes are much closer together... like your pic.

[fastfraser]

Big thumbs up. Keep the pics and mods comming.:clap::2thumbs::spyder:

[ataDude]

Thanks... but I'm quickly running out of things to do... but keep watching in the next few days for a dual side GSXR-1000 exhaust.


Big thumbs up. Keep the pics and mods comming.:clap::2thumbs::spyder:

[ataDude]

... After about 40 hours and $800 in parts, the duals are on. Approximately $250 of the various excess reducers, flex joints, clamps and spare mufflers were not used.

Construction. The plumbing was built from scratch from 2"OD pipe, various reducers and odds and ends. Each side was individually cut, assembled, fitted, welded or clamped one step at a time and consists of between 9-12 individual components... each. The 2" OD pipe was exactly the right ID size (about 1 7/8") to continue to use the stock upper slip-joint gaskets.

Update: I "re-made" the two L pipes which exit from under the bike out of 2.125" OD pipe. The ID of 2.0" allows for a good, close-tolerance slip-joint and the elimination of one weld on each side.

"Gasketless" slip-joints, sealed with high-temp RTV, and band clamps were used for the sections as they emerge from the sides of the bike. With little work and expense, new "L" sections can be fitted for other mufflers if desired. The GSX-R1000 mufflers use triangular flanges with a 3" bolt pattern welded on to the pipe... a little different from the other mufflers I have used.

Sections from three of these were used on each side: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/small/hed-12014_w_s.jpg

Hangers were made from 3/8" steel rod. They are suspended much the same as the stock... except with two rubber isolators instead of one. The stock, single frame-welded hanger accepted the extra rubber isolator rather nicely.

The pipes exit from the bike's sides about 4" further forward than the standard right-side elbow so that approximately 1.5" of vertical clearance was provided for the drive belt (on the left). The belt side was built first to allow for this clearance and then the right side was "mirrored" so that the upward angle for the pipes/mufflers would be the same.

Full-length heat shields from the same perforated aluminum that was used on the SuperTrapps will be made at a later date. The shields will cover only the "L" portion of the pipes exposed to view on either side.

The right pipe houses the stock O2 sensor. If needed at a later (much later!) date, a cross-over pipe connecting the two sides can easily be constructed... or the evoluzion.net O2 sensor eliminator can be reinstalled... or the Two Brother's Juice Box, which I ordered from No Magic Neon a while back, can be used.

Exhaust flow should be better than stock. Only three 90 degree turns exist on each side of the new pipes. Including the final 90 degree elbow on the stock setup, five turns exist for the right side pipe... and just three for the left.

The stock 2-to-1 is on the left... the upper slip-joint gaskets which occasionally give us trouble are at the top of the two intakes. The new plumbing is on the right.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1285

Mufflers. The mufflers are from a 2008 Suzuki GSX-R1000. I had to buy two sets on eBay to get one decent set. Even so, these are a relative bargain at $75-100 a set as they are titanium, stainless steel and aluminum. Replacements from Suzuki are about $900 per side.

The mufflers' stock hang/mounting points were used but... the bolt holes did need to be enlarged.

Two big pluses: there's no glass or ceramic packing to wear out - only stainless chambers... and each side only weighs about four pounds.

Sound. The sound is distinctively different from the stock 2-to-1 setup as you can hear each cylinder individually (think Ducati Monster with non-stock duals). The noise level is a tad louder than a Hindle but nowhere near as loud as a Micron... it's very similar to the dual SuperTrapps (earlier in this thread) with four diffuser disks each.

The GSX-R1000 (but not the Spyder) also uses a central muffler box under the engine which contains the catalytic converter as well as additional baffles.

I had no clue as I was buying/building what this set-up would sound like. I got what I was hoping for... out of sheer luck.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1312
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1311
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1313

Finally, there was one casualty after the build was over. The cast aluminum foot guard at the driver's right foot peg appeared to be a little crooked. So...if you think you want to straighten one of yours, think twice. It didn't take much... just an outward tug... to break it. :yikes:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1310

.

[bjt]

:thumbup: Those look really sharp.

How do they perform without a crossover pipe?

[ataDude]

:thumbup: Those look really sharp.

How do they perform without a crossover pipe?

Hey, Brian... don't know yet. I'm resting... :yikes: ... thinking about heat shields. It's supposed to rain tomorrow and Wednesday and I'm not getting it dirty after a couple hours of cleaning! :D

I'll probably be able to definitively tell this coming weekend... when I try to match the modified DL1000 that I ride with. He's always been able to beat me by about 8-10 bike lengths in a quarter... not much... maybe a few tenths... but it's a benchmark that I'm used to.

It does sound good, though... hearing the two cylinders doing their jobs - separately :thumbup:

.

[bjt]

After looking at your pics again and visualizing them in my mind, I can see one of those stainless flex joints you had being used as the crossover. I almost forgot, I take it by the install pics that you had no troubles welding on the Spyder?

[ataDude]

I never had to weld on it... I finagled a second rubber hanger (same as stock) on the existing frame mounting rod.

Cross-over... don't know if I'll use the flex joints... will need two stub pipes pointing inward from each side... then connected by some sort of sliding joint/adapter/clamp. I don't want to have to drop both sides to replace just one of the upper gaskets.

.

After looking at your pics again and visualizing them in my mind, I can see one of those stainless flex joints you had being used as the crossover. I almost forgot, I take it by the install pics that you had no troubles welding on the Spyder?

[bjt]

Cross-over... don't know if I'll use the flex joints... will need two stub pipes pointing inward from each side... then connected by some sort of sliding joint/adapter/clamp. I don't want to have to drop both sides to replace just one of the upper gaskets.

Exactly what I had in mind. Two stubs of pipe pointing inward with that flex joint connected between the stubs. Easy to install and remove one side only, just loosen the flex joint to seperate the two pipes and then remove one side. Also, the flex crossover allows independant movement between the two sides while riding.

[ataDude]

Gotcha. I might use them after all. They were expensive! My inventory of miscellaneous exhaust parts is overflowing. ;)

I'll do some research, if needed. I always thought the cross-over was smaller diameter than the pipes. In my case, the pipes are 2" OD. I was thinking something like 1.00" - 1.50".

BTW, I used the DEI silicone coating this time. I believe it was you who pointed me to it a few months back. So far, I like it better... much smoother coating. It has to be baked at 400* or more to cure it (I used 450*)... and, trust me, I'm lucky I'm single because it stunk the entire house up. Nasty. :(

.

Exactly what I had in mind. Two stubs of pipe pointing inward with that flex joint connected between the stubs. Easy to install and remove one side only, just loosen the flex joint to seperate the two pipes and then remove one side. Also, the flex crossover allows independant movement between the two sides while riding.

[ataDude]

...but not quite finished. This is the hand pounded aluminum heat shield for each side.

Last step: there are also some stock GSX-R1000 heat/trim shields which require some major surgery... they cover the flanges and acorn nuts that you can see in the pic.

Update on performance... by themselves, nothing was gained or lost according to my run against the benchmark bike last weekend... but I'm not through yet, either. :D

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1451

[bjt]

Still looking good. :thumbup:

[ataDude]

Still looking good. :thumbup:

I love that perf'd aluminum... easy to shape with a mallet over PVC pipe and looks like it should have been there to begin with.

.

.

[retread]

Oh, man, now I've got exhaust envy, too. Why cover the flanges? they look real good.

john

[burg650]

Those dual look awesome, I would sure love a set up like that for my SE5 just for looks. I was never a fan of single side exhaust, I believe dual side exhaust makes any motorcycle look great a single looks like they forgot to add the other one.

[ataDude]

Oh, man, now I've got exhaust envy, too. Why cover the flanges? they look real good.

john


Those dual look awesome, I would sure love a set up like that for my SE5 just for looks. I was never a fan of single side exhaust, I believe dual side exhaust makes any motorcycle look great a single looks like they forgot to add the other one.

Thanks, guys. If I can get the stock GSXR covers to work, you'll see why. They make it look gooooooooood. :D

But, I'm "exhausted" :yikes: right now. Will be a few weeks before I get back at it. This was fun when it started but now....

[bjt]

How long til you make some type of crossover between the exhausts? I have heard that a one exhaust per cylinder design such as you have does not perform as well as duals with a crossover pipe between the two.

[ataDude]

How long til you make some type of crossover between the exhausts? I have heard that a one exhaust per cylinder design such as you have does not perform as well as duals with a crossover pipe between the two.

I've heard the same thing... it has to do with the exhaust from one cylinder helping to scavenge (suck) the exhaust gases out from the other. But, I do like the sound so... that will be last, if at all. And, I'm not ready to be crawling on the garage floor again... at least for a while.

Next up will be Ken's airbox eliminator setup and the Two Brother's fuel box. Already have the fuel box and the filter should be in today.

.

[0228lisa]

Any of you technically savvy guys, who know all this sh...tuff can come over to my house any time. Mod parts (for my Spyder of course) and beer on me. BYOT....Bring your own tools.:D

[ataDude]

JAX is just a tad far to be hauling tools and welding equipment... but I'll keep that in mind. :D

.



Any of you technically savvy guys, who know all this sh...tuff can come over to my house any time. Mod parts (for my Spyder of course) and beer on me. BYOT....Bring your own tools.:D

[rleathen]

Hey ATADUDE how are your A-Arm driving lights working. You mentioned that the vibration eventually causes them to loosen up and swivel up and that you used RTV as a quick a dirty fix. Have you come up with a more permanent solution. I have the exact same lights and before I mount them as you did it would be nice to know what otehr problems/challenges I may encountered with them.

Thanks in advance.

[ataDude]

The small, invisible blob of ATV is still working even after those runs (where I loan my bike to a maniac) of triple-digit speeds... doesn't need a fix... it is fixed.

I must note, however, that guy only does that on deserted farm roads. Most of the time, he drives sanely. :D

.


Hey ATADUDE how are your A-Arm driving lights working. You mentioned that the vibration eventually causes them to loosen up and swivel up and that you used RTV as a quick a dirty fix. Have you come up with a more permanent solution. I have the exact same lights and before I mount them as you did it would be nice to know what otehr problems/challenges I may encountered with them.

Thanks in advance.

[ataDude]

... mods.

I made the intentional mistake of putting on two performance goodies at the same time... now, I'll not be able to definitively say one or the other is good... or bad... only that the combination works or doesn't.

The evoluzion.net race air filter was installed... and it eliminates the entire greasy, oily stock airbox... and it was bad this time. The new filter plumbing shoots any blow-by directly back into the FI throttle bodies.

The install took maybe an hour... top and side panels require removal. Then, the airbox cover and box itself must be removed. Don't try this unless you have a very short, torx driver... like a ratcheting type.... for the six torx bolts holding the box to the FI intakes.

The Two Brother's Racing Juice Box was also installed... now that I'm running freer flowing pipes and air intake. It was pretty much an easy install (45 minutes) except that the wiring for the Box to the O2 sensor is still short... by about 12-15 inches. Cut/add/solder/shrink wrap added maybe 15 minutes.

I placed the Juice Box controller about where Lamont did... there's not too many choices if you want easy access to it. (see bottom of second pic).

Performance? Will have to wait until this weekend... it's raining... but we need it. :(

Update 4 April 2009: From a performance perspective, the combination appears to work very, very well. The benchmark DL1000 bike's typical 8-10 bike-length advantage was decreased to next to nothing. I'm guessing a 7-10 HP increase from the two mods combined.

However, as bjt stated below, the intake noise is bothersome at best... head-pounding at the worst. I can't imagine a trip with this intake on... it's just too noisy for me behind a full shield.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1611
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=1610

[bjt]

I like the looks of the race airflow system but I'm guessing you get quite a bit more air intake noise and I'm aiming for a quieter ride. I did see an aftermarket pipe advertised at my dealer today that stated it had good performance gains while maintaining a quieter ride. I may consider that along with the Magic Man 90 if they are compatible with each other. The exhaust was a White Bros. I think. :dontknow: ..... Enough about me, your setup looks good. :D :thumbup:

EDIT: Well I just did a Google search on the White Bros. exhaust and it seems they are no longer in business. One link took me to Two Brothers, maybe some type of business change, buyout or partnership? Maybe I should tell the dealer its time to update his product posters...

[ataDude]

.
White Brothers makes good stuff... and they have a very good reputation!

And, I hooked up my ear bud extension for the Garmin Nuvi MP3 player at the same time as installing the intake. You're right... it is louder... but music will make it OK... I hope. :D

I've got the Valentine One now visual only... with very bright LEDs right in front.

And, as much as I "piddle", not having the large plastic hunk under the hood will be pleasant.
.



I like the looks of the race airflow system but I'm guessing you get quite a bit more air intake noise and I'm aiming for a quieter ride. I did see an aftermarket pipe advertised at my dealer today that stated it had good performance gains while maintaining a quieter ride. I may consider that along with the Magic Man 90 if they are compatible with each other. The exhaust was a White Bros. I think. :dontknow: ..... Enough about me, your setup looks good. :D :thumbup:

[bjt]

And, as much as I "piddle", not having the large plastic hunk under the hood will be pleasant.


Maybe it means something different in Texas than it does in Michigan but "piddle" is what I say that a puppy does when it gets too excited. :opps: :D

[ataDude]

Maybe it means something different in Texas than it does in Michigan but "piddle" is what I say that a puppy does when it gets too excited. :opps: :D

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Firefly]

I forget how the spyder sounded before putting the race airflow on. Recently I put a CalSci shield on until it warms up a bit more - and noticed that I really hear a lot more since I don't have as much wind blowing on my helmet.

I hear the intake more than the Hindle - LOL.

It is nice not to worry about the oil box leakage, um - I mean air box leaking oil -

I'm building a small insulated box to go around the race airflow setup, that will connect via ducts to dual vents I'm installing on the front of Spyder - for a cold-air intake setup. This will get cool air into the intake, keep the hot engine air away, and quiet the intake down a bit.

[ataDude]

Sounds cool :D ... let us know how it works!



...
I'm building a small insulated box to go around the race airflow setup, that will connect via ducts to dual vents I'm installing on the front of Spyder - for a cold-air intake setup. This will get cool air into the intake, keep the hot engine air away, and quiet the intake down a bit.

[0228lisa]

Always feel free to share mods!!!! LOL
I like the strut lights you used. The shape goes well with the bike, and like you said, the plastic is a spot on match!!!

Lack of feedback? Get your butt to Jacksonville! I'm with ya dude.:yes:

[Roaddog2]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=276

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2528:2thumbs:

[bjt]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=276

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2528

I finally got this same throttle lock put on my Spyder the other day. Took a little bit of futzing around to get to where I think it works okay. I may still need some tweaking to the mount as the one screw in the bottom seems to force it to lean into the grip. As far as locking the throttle and ease of use, its great. If I don't have the mount dialed in by the time we meet in Oklahoma, maybe you can give me some tips. :thumbup:

[ataDude]

bjt... the key is to drill it only after you have it in the locked position...


I finally got this same throttle lock put on my Spyder the other day. Took a little bit of futzing around to get to where I think it works okay. I may still need some tweaking to the mount as the one screw in the bottom seems to force it to lean into the grip. As far as locking the throttle and ease of use, its great. If I don't have the mount dialed in by the time we meet in Oklahoma, maybe you can give me some tips. :thumbup:

[bjt]

Thanks, I think I did that. If not, its too late now as I have the hole drilled. Probably wouldn't be too good if I ended up with the Vista Cruise or my right control module looking like swiss cheese trying to get it 100%. :D I'm thinking of finding a piece of the 3M VHB tape and affixing it to the lower, stationary portion of the Vista Cruise and to the right controls. I think that'll do what I think I need. I'll see how it goes during the next few weeks as is. Right now, I have totally free throttle motion when the Vista Cruise is unlocked and it appears to hold the throttle rock solid when locked. I'll find out better when we take our first long trip of the season tomorrow. :thumbup:

ps. I don't know how many of these they make for different bikes and how different each one is but it appears that the one Vista Cruise they had at the dealership is the same one you had sitting in your garage... :f_spider: Looks to me like they could make a Spyder specific one by just making that tab with the screw mount longer to fit the Spyder's controls. There is a screw on the bottom of the controls that the tab could use. http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Thinking/thinking-020.gif

[zzneonzz]

I just installed the vista cruise latnight on my Spyder. If you have the ISO/Flame Kuryakyn grips have the dremel handy. To get it to fit clush against the control mechanism you have to sand out part of the inner circle to fit over the large lip at the end of the grip. Works great though now that its complete took about 45 minutes to install.

[ataDude]

I'm a little slow... have had these on for more than a month, now.

Rear lighting doesn't get any better than this: the No Magic Neon Triple Play unit (with LED turn signal lights) and the NMN center LED light. This set-up is great! The turn and brake lights flash on/off three times when the brake is applied... if you so choose.

Visibility for those following is wonderful... this setup should remove any excuses of "I didn't see you..." except for the most negligent folks... as we read about on this forum just this week.

The install is relatively easy and includes dropping the center black plastic cover directly over the rear wheel... seven #30 Torx screws... the same that holds the rest of the plastic together.

If you can read and following directions, the total install time should be less than 45-60 minutes... tops.

On a scale of 1-10 (10 being difficult), the installation is a "2". All required wiring/plugs/taps are included.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=2281

[ataDude]

This week's entry is the No Magic Neon "Double Play" with LED turn signals... most excellent... more front end visibility to encourage the cagers to not turn in front of you. :clap:

Pic is at night, in my garage, with emergency flashers on.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=2364
.

[0228lisa]

I like seeing the mods...although one of them was way over my head. I've been on a spending spree since Doru, Forest and Mike came to help me put them all on. And they are even coming back to finish the project. Cool.:ohyea::2thumbs:

[ataDude]

Thanks. Glad the guys are getting some of yours done. Are you learning yet how to do some? Not hard.

.


I like seeing the mods...although one of them was way over my head. I've been on a spending spree since Doru, Forest and Mike came to help me put them all on. And they are even coming back to finish the project. Cool.:ohyea::2thumbs:

[0228lisa]

Thanks. Glad the guys are getting some of your's done. Are you learning yet how to do some? Not hard.

.

Let's see...."learning how to do some".....does refilling their drinks, grabbing my hair dryer and learning what a 1,1/8 hole saw count???:opps::opps::opps:

I am totally dependent on them.:bowdown: Although I think I am going to attempt putting on the decals myself.:thumbup:

I left out Tim and Christie on the last post....Sorry Tim.

[ataDude]

The No Magic Neon LED brake lights are installed and they are awesome! They are considerably brighter than the stock incandescents (don't know by what factor)... and they're apparently designed to never trigger the nanny... even if the LEDs go south... which is highly unlikely for a very, very long time.

See the pic below... daylight in the garage... my buddy, the weed eater, is holding down the brake pedal. :D

Install hints... total time required was less than 30 minutes:

1. Remove the seven #30 Torx screws which hold the under-the-seat / over-the-tire plastic pan in place. Set the pan aside.

2. Remove the rear two plastic rivets (under seat) for both black side covers... the ones with the "Spyder" decals... if you still have the decals. Lightly pull the side covers away from the bike and block them to keep them away using rags or anything else you have handy.

3. Release the securing tabs and flip the tail cover up (you've already removed the one screw in (1) above).

4. Remove each tail light by removing the two #30 Torx screws. Both extend up with the Torx head facing down.

a. One is very easy to get to... the rear most, in the center... exposed by removing the cover in (3) above.

b. The second #30 Torx screw is a little harder to find... in the front of the taillight, somewhat high. I used a small mirror and flashlight to position the screwdriver with the Torx bit.

5. If you purchased just the LEDs (and not the entire assembly as I did), follow the NMN directions for bulb removal and LED insertion.

6. Reassemble in reverse order... except if you don't have extra hands to help, install the rear-most, center screw first on each side. There are two small positioning prongs which fit in a slot extending from the screw hole. I tried to re-install the forward/high screw first (to make it easier) and couldn't get the positioning prongs to then fit the slot on the rear/center screw.

Update: At night, these lights are really bright... very visible.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=2419

[0228lisa]

.... I've had these on for a month or more. I can only say:

How did I live without 'em? :clap: :clap:

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3501
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=289
.


Are they hard to put on? There isn't much visibility with the stock mirrors and when I have a 2 wheel motorcycle following directly behind me, I can't see him. :gaah: One of these days I'm gonna lose him accidently.

[ataDude]

Are they hard to put on? There isn't much visibility with the stock mirrors and when I have a 2 wheel motorcycle following directly behind me, I can't see him. :gaah: One of these days I'm gonna lose him accidently.

Nahh.. pretty easy. Follow the instructions that comes with them.

The "hard" part is grinding/filing on the little plastic "gap fillers" on the front to make them fit. They also have to be glued (RTV) back in. Some folks leave them off.
.

[0228lisa]

My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.:shocked:

You'll love the forum for good information, good laughs and good friends.:congrats:welcome

[vt228]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=275


.I WANT TO NO WHERE TO GET THE FUZZ BOX SET UP AND HOW MUCH
MOST OF US WANT TO NO WHERE TO PICK IT UP PLEASE:pray: LET US NO THANK YOU DONNY VT228 :thumbup:
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=424

[ataDude]

I WANT TO NO WHERE TO GET THE FUZZ BOX SET UP AND HOW MUCH
MOST OF US WANT TO NO WHERE TO PICK IT UP PLEASE:pray: LET US NO THANK YOU DONNY VT228 :thumbup:
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=424

I had it for several years for another bike project before I used it on the Spyder. Don't remember where I purchased it from.

However, google "Blue Sea Fuse Box" and I'll bet you'll find it. It was originally designed for marine use.

.

[baldev]

Love your set up. Brilliant.

[vt228]

Accessory wiring:

To ensure that I didn't make the computer nannies mad, I ran an entirely new set of circuits (front to back) from the battery, through a relay, to a 30-amp Blue Sea fuse block mounted in the front compartment. The relay is activated by fuse three in the Spyder's standard front fuse block... therefore, all of my new circuits are on only when the ignition is on. An advantage to using fuse #3 is a built-in 15 second delay after the ignition is switched off.

As with all of these mods, I had the parts already "in stock" from other past bike projects. The Blue Sea box accommodates six fused circuits and six ground points. I'm only using three at this point... the Corbin heated seat will make four. All handlebar stuff (V1, GPS, etc) are low amperage and running on one circuit.

All wiring is run through plastic wiring looms available almost everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. ::)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=275

Update: If I were to do this again, I'd mount the Blue Sea box not IN the front box but immediately behind it. Reason - if the luggage "box" needs to be removed, the "though-the-firewall" wiring complicates matters tremendously.
.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=424
http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-fuse.JPG
where did you get the box and could you get me one asap,,, please:pray:

[ataDude]

where did you get the box and could you get me one asap,,, please:pray:

Just google "blue sea fuse" and you'll find a number of places that sell them. That one was left over from a ST1300 project several years ago.

.

.

[ataDude]

Love your set up. Brilliant.

Thanks!

[ataDude]

.... I've had the fender on for about eight months now.

Today, while removing the rear tire for replacement, I noticed a small hairline crack forming from the upper right of the Frenched-in license plate. The small hole is one I drilled to prevent the spread of the crack. Will use touch-up paint to fill in.

Also, by using a car jack under the rear frame (with the help of a piece of 2" x 4"), I was able to remove the tire without messing with the fender. So... that's out of the loop, anyway.

Have I said before that this fender is the ONLY mod on the Spyder I would NOT do again?

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=3974

[Ryno]

I have finally completed this thread.. And I am very impressed. Nice Bike ATA.

[ataDude]

I have finally completed this thread.. And I am very impressed. Nice Bike ATA.

It is a little long, isn't it? Were you bored... did you have too much idle time (kind of like me with the SideKick)? :yikes:

Thanks. :D

.

[drogers]

This is a standard Vista Cruise / Yamaha-fit, throttle lock carved down to fit the Spyder. The Spyder's throttle sleeve has a ridge under the rubber which also must be filed off. I may install an AudioVox cruise unit later... none of these mods inflicts any permanent changes which are meaningful.

Did I say that I dislike the "universal" throttle locks with the ugly (IMHO) bar running across the top in plain view?

Installation instructions for the throttle lock are here:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=44887&postcount=51

The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=276

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=2528

Dude, you are the man. I popped by cyclegear and 24.99 and 24 minutes of my life later, I now have an awesome, easy to use, factory looking throttle lock, just in time for my 600 mile weekend.

Thanks for the great instructions and the pics!

[ataDude]

Dude, you are the man. I popped by cyclegear and 24.99 and 24 minutes of my life later, I now have an awesome, easy to use, factory looking throttle lock, just in time for my 600 mile weekend.

Thanks for the great instructions and the pics!

No problem. I like them because they are all but invisible. :thumbup:
.

[ataDude]

... first mod today in quite a while. I'm running out of things to do!

I ordered the Mel's Monster Garage fresh air intake from eBay last week ($89 + shipping) and put it on today. Fast service!
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=4719

Installation

The right side black covers (mid and front) need to be removed. I won't go into that detail in this post... easy stuff.

The stock rubber air intake snorkels need to be removed by forcing them from the box... there are flexible internal and external rubber flanges on the snorkels... I removed by pulling the snorkels into the air box as I had the lid off already. Sorry... no pics on that but it is easy.

The underside of the stock front air intake needs a little slicing for this mod. I used a Dremel to remove the rear 3" of the intake (red X in the below pic) per the MMG instructions which are very good, BTW. Large pics are included.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=4715

Once the small section was removed, I used a file and sand paper to clean up the cuts. The MMG intake mates to the stock air vent like this... with a rubber joint connector:
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=4716

The other end (rear) of the MMG intake is a "force fit" into the stock air box. The fit leaves a minor open area on my air box (maybe 1/64") but that is no big deal as it is upstream of the air filter. If desired, black RTV could be used to seal it up.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=4717

I did add a drain hole (just in case) at the very bottom of the intake... it slants down from the front and then slants up to the air box. I had a feeling that the duct will probably collect and retain water in a rain storm. And because of the way the stock air box is constructed (air flow in is below the filter), water will not make it to the engine.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=4718

Sometimes I make stuff... sometimes I buy. In this case, I'm glad I bought as the finished product is next to invisible and once spotted, looks like it belongs! Is it worth $89? For me, it was... I still have not recovered from the dual pipe marathon. :D

Performance

After some Juice Box tuning (.5, 7,7,2,2), I believe the combination of the intake plus the JB is pretty close to being as effective as the race air flow filter/JB combination. The new combination is awesome and the bike strongly pulls to red line in all five gears! Plus, no additional intake noise!

psssst... didn't try reverse performance :D.

[bjt]

I'm glad you bought that. I've considered it but just haven't had the extra $90 that wasn't earmarked for other mods, toys, etc. I'm curious to hear how it performs. :popcorn:

[ataDude]

I'm glad you bought that. I've considered it but just haven't had the extra $90 that wasn't earmarked for other mods, toys, etc. I'm curious to hear how it performs. :popcorn:

Actually, Brian, I'm not concerned about that at all. Fresh air is fresh air, regardless of how you get it from in front of the radiator. This one might produce less turbulent air because of the "smoothness" of the inside but that really doesn't matter, either. :thumbup:

.

[Smylinacha]

... I just installed "araneae"...Bryan's... highway peg mount. Very easy to install (15 minutes) and will serve it's purposes well. Contact "araneae" on this forum for his current price. The "stubs" that extend out to the side, BTW, were already threaded 1/2" x 20 tpi. Bryan does provide another metric threaded option, I think.

I spent an hour or so browsing the local Harley mega-dealership for options. I informed the parts guy what I was making and he was more than helpful to someone without a HD... great service!

These HD accessories are what I used for my pegs:

1. 34023-08 HD Black billet shift and brake lever SET, MSRP $129.95; and
2. 34690-08 HD Diamond Black Shifter Pegs, MSRP 16.95 each, times two.

As always, I wanted something just a little different and BLACK. Sooner or later, there will be NO silver on my tricycle.

I wouldn't want to stand on these but... for intermittent change of feet position, these work well... plus they look just downright cool.

As an added "plus", they are locked in place two ways... (1) 1/2"x20 jam nuts on the back sides and (2) pinch bolts built into the levers. I did have to tap the large HD lever holes to match Bryan's mounts... that's no big deal IF you have the 1/2"x20 tap.

My lower leg position is relatively straight-up (knees at a 90* angle) with my feet on the new pegs. http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3957
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=283
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=284
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3952
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3953

I like the subtle looks of those - very nice! And yep, I love black!

[ataDude]

I like the subtle looks of those - very nice! And yep, I love black!

Thanks. The only silver left on mine is the rear wheel and sprocket and... I'm on a wait list for those. :thumbup:

.

[bjt]

... first mod today in quite a while. I'm running out of things to do!

I ordered the Mel's Monster Garage fresh air intake from eBay last week ($89 + shipping) and put it on today. Fast service!
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=4719

Sometimes I make stuff... sometimes I buy. In this case, I'm glad I bought as the finished product is next to invisible and once spotted, looks like it belongs! Is it worth $89? For me, it was... I still have not recovered from the dual pipe marathon. :D

Performance

To come.


I'm glad you bought that. I've considered it but just haven't had the extra $90 that wasn't earmarked for other mods, toys, etc. I'm curious to hear how it performs. :popcorn:

Any updates on how this is working for you? I may want to ride down to Mels today and buy one.

[truck 85]

wow you are a true crafstman keep it up love to wach you mods:congrats:

[ataDude]

wow you are a true crafstman keep it up love to wach you mods:congrats:

Thanks... but I'm running out of things that I want to do. :yikes:

.

[ataDude]

Any updates on how this is working for you? I may want to ride down to Mels today and buy one.

bjt - update... deleted the other "update" and added the NMN green filter.

After a little tuning on the JuiceBox (.5, 7,7,2,2), the combination of (1) JB, (2) No Magic Neon green filter and (3) Mel's Monster Garage cool air intake runs very, very good. The roadster pulls very strongly all the way to red line even in 5th gear.

While I don't have actual dyno facts to back this up, I think this combination is about as good as the Evo race air flow setup with the JB. Plus, there's no head-pounding racket from the intake as from the race filter.

I give the combination a big, two thumbs up! :2thumbs:

.

[mrb]

bjt - update... deleted the other "update" and added the NMN green filter.
After a little tuning on the JuiceBox (.5, 7,7,2,2), the combination of (1) JB, (2) No Magic Neon green filter and (3) Mel's Monster Garage cool air intake runs very, very good. The roadster pulls very strongly all the way to red line even in 5th gear.
I give the combination a big, two thumbs up! :2thumbs:
.
I would love to do this but Australian Spyders, like European Spyders , use all 4 headlights and I don't think this intake will fit:gaah:

[ataDude]

I would love to do this but Australian Spyders, like European Spyders , use all 4 headlights and I don't think this intake will fit:gaah:

Absolutely correct. Sorry about that.

.

[ataDude]

Bump.... lest you forget me. :yikes:

[bjt]

Bump.... lest you forget me. :yikes:

Okay, who were you again? :D

[ataDude]

Okay, who were you again? :D

:D http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cd/Pivot_Wave.gif

[krb1945]

I like the bug better! :2thumbs: /Ken

[ataDude]

Quarterly bummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmp so you don't forget. :ohyea:

[ataDude]

...WOW! Well I just read all 7 pages of this and what a source of great information...

Do you still have the duel exhaust set up? ...

You were bored, huh? :D

Don't have the Spyder anymore. See this thread: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15206 for the details.

I still have the duals setting here in case I ever buy another Spyder.

Thanks for the complements!
.

[ataDude]

Quarterly reminder...... bump. :popcorn:

[ataDude]

It's time for a bump on this very important thread containing lots of very cool information. :D

I thought you had forgotten me. :opps: ;)

.

[Barbary]

My wife and I are new here. Our spyder is on order. This is good stuff. Please keep posting.:shocked:

welcome

[ataDude]

Just a reminder so you don't forget me! :shocked:

[jvicker]

Atadude's thread should be required reading for all spyder owners, new and old.nojoke:thumbup:

I'd insert a few bowdowns but the iPad won't let me.:(

[ataDude]

This is the annual bump lest you forget me. :ohyea:

[Chupaca]

Looks great. You have done a lot of work and it has paid off. Great pic's keep them coming..:thumbup: Don't worry to much on the responses not everyone writes but they do look. You will notice how many look..

[Tigger]

It's 15 degrees today with 8" of snow on the ground. Hot coffee and eight pages of mods help to pass the time. Thanks.

[flamingobabe]

Spyderlovers will never forget you...you were the pioneeer of all mods...1st dual exhaust...wiring...you are the master ...what you been doing? hope all is well for you

[ataDude]

Spyderlovers will never forget you...you were the pioneeer of all mods...1st dual exhaust...wiring...you are the master ...what you been doing? hope all is well for you

Everything is dandy here. A little cool but no white stuff.

How's the yellow Valk doing for Hotglue? And, when is your new Spyder due?

BTW... did you tell your relative that the exhaust warranty was 12 minutes or 12 miles and that it expired long ago?

[ataDude]

Looks great. You have done a lot of work and it has paid off. Great pic's keep them coming..:thumbup: Don't worry to much on the responses not everyone writes but they do look. You will notice how many look..

Heh, heh... my Spyder was traded in late 2009. But, thanks anyway. ;)


It's 15 degrees today with 8" of snow on the ground. Hot coffee and eight pages of mods help to pass the time. Thanks.

Glad to keep you from boredom... or did you just exchange it for another type. :yikes:

[Bob Denman]

"Dude; you're among the unforgetable! :bowdown::bowdown::thumbup::bowdown:

[flamingobabe]

Everything is dandy here. A little cool but no white stuff.

How's the yellow Valk doing for Hotglue? And, when is your new Spyder due?

BTW... did you tell your relative that the exhaust warranty was 12 minutes or 12 miles and that it expired long ago?

My brother loves the new exhaust...he is now the coolest>>>>as I was...thanks

The yellow Valk is doing good...re-built the carbs and everywhere hg rides it... a swarm of people collect

My new ST will be in when the snow quits falling in Missouri....I can't wait

[ataDude]

Never forgotten! :bowdown: :firstplace: It's good to see you back even if it's only for a bump. :yes: What are you ridings an or driving these days?


I gave up both three and two wheels after almost 50 years. It got to the point where every time I geared up in the morning, I was constantly thinking about what bones I could break that day. Don't miss it at all.

Got a 2012 Infinity G37 hard-top convertible about a year ago... that works for me, now.

[Bob Denman]

You never really give up the street; you just might end up taking a longer break from it than you originally anticipated! :shocked: :thumbup:

[VaughnCat]

.... I must be slacking off. This week the only new goody is a Stebel air horn. It's approximately 6" cubed and is a heavy current draw... instructions say to use a 30 amp fuse... so I did.

I had several electrical problems with this install... probably because of the Spyder's CAN-BUS electrical system. So... I did a little more than one would usually do to hook up a horn. For example, one continuing problem that resulted from hooking it up to my accessory-switched add-on fuse box entailed the horn continuously honking after the 15-second delay ended for the switched power. Strange stuff from the CAN-BUS system.

I wound up leaving the the stock horn intact... so that the "system" would be dual tone. The Stebel states it is a 300 m/h horn... the stock is about 500-600 m/h. They sound good together.

The stock horn is negatively-switched (surprise). In order to overcome the Can-Bus gremlins, I tapped both the positive and negative connections at the stock horn and ran the new wires back to the relay (supplied with the Stebel). I also used a direct battery connection for a power supply instead of one of my open fuse circuits. Ground for the horn also comes directly from the battery.

The relay connections used were as follows:
#30 - positive directly from battery (fused at 30 amps)
#86 - positive from tapping into the existing horn
#85 - negative from tapping into the existing horn
#87 - positive to the Stebel's positive terminal

A separate ground wire from the battery was run to the negative Stebel horn terminal.

Mounting: only one hole needed to be drilled for mounting using the bolt/nut that came with the horn. See the second picture.

This is not one of the high-toned motorcycle-specific horns. It does sound like a car or truck. I like it! :D

BTW, I purchased it on eBay (with a spare) for about $45 each, shipped. Search "stebel truck" and you'll find it. I have used "Freeway Blasters" (non-air) on other bikes and they are about the same as this.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=278
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=279

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3769
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=3770
We ordered the horn, Oxford Heaterz heated grips, Storm handguards and an adjustable windfoil for on top of the factory touring windshield on Cat's RS, and so I had a day's project. These parts came from Twisted Throttle. I also ordered the $30 wiring loom for the horn. I could have saved the $, but it was just about plug n play . . . the only soldering I did was to add the stock horn in the system. The horn was easy once I saw where you mounted it. Thanks!

[ataDude]

We ordered the horn, Oxford Heaterz heated grips, Storm handguards and an adjustable windfoil for on top of the factory touring windshield on Cat's RS, and so I had a day's project. These parts came from Twisted Throttle. I also ordered the $30 wiring loom for the horn. I could have saved the $, but it was just about plug n play . . . the only soldering I did was to add the stock horn in the system. The horn was easy once I saw where you mounted it. Thanks!

You are very welcome! :thumbup:

[Big Arm]

VaughnCat and ataDude....... Nice to see that you folks are still around :yes: miss your posts.

[master1309]

Would you mind giving me a parts list for this set-up am currently running an RLS Punisher and my 60 yr old ears are bleeding. In my younger days I would heve relished in the Punisher sound, but now looking to add audio to the RSS. Please send to master1309@yahoo.com. Thanks Richard:bowdown:

[ataDude]

Would you mind giving me a parts list for this set-up am currently running an RLS Punisher and my 60 yr old ears are bleeding. In my younger days I would heve relished in the Punisher sound, but now looking to add audio to the RSS. Please send to master1309@yahoo.com. Thanks Richard:bowdown:

Other than what's in my post, I have no further info. That was four years ago and I no longer have the Spyder. Sorry!:(

[Revalden]

Accessory wiring:

To ensure that I didn't make the computer nannies mad, I ran an entirely new set of circuits (front to back) from the battery, through a relay, to a 30-amp Blue Sea fuse block mounted in the front compartment. The relay is activated by fuse three in the Spyder's standard front fuse block... therefore, all of my new circuits are on only when the ignition is on. An advantage to using fuse #3 is a built-in 15 second delay after the ignition is switched off.

As with all of these mods, I had the parts already "in stock" from other past bike projects. The Blue Sea box accommodates six fused circuits and six ground points. I'm only using three at this point... the Corbin heated seat will make four. All handlebar stuff (V1, GPS, etc) are low amperage and running on one circuit.

All wiring is run through plastic wiring looms available almost everywhere. I buy the looms from JC Whitney in boxes containing 100' each. ::)

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=19&pictureid=275

Update: If I were to do this again, I'd mount the Blue Sea box not IN the front box but immediately behind it. Reason - if the luggage "box" needs to be removed, the "though-the-firewall" wiring complicates matters tremendously.
.
http://www.st-owners.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=28&pictureid=424
http://www.st-owners.com/pp_gallery/data/500/ataDude-fuse.JPG

There is a space on the left side under the Tupperware where something on the earlier 2 cyl RTs was mounted. There is a bracket there that I smashed down to fairly flat (maybe the next time I'm in there I'll cut out some more of the bracket with my Saws-All). That's where I mounted my fuse block, and it's close to the battery.