power commander autotune dyno?

[NVERLAST1]

I installed power commander with autotune but none of the maps match my set up. Is it worth the money to put on a dyno?

[elixermixer]

I installed power commander with autotune but none of the maps match my set up. Is it worth the money to put on a dyno?
Not sure what your set up IS?
seems you as least have the 2broz single slip so seems you would run
25-004-002 for a stock filter
25-004-005 for the green filter
so chances are if you have a different high flow filter you would match up your map choices to best correspond with your mods. Just like if someone had a different exhaust they would choose the 2broz map as they don't have any other exhausts listed at this time.

[Spyder4Tess]

I installed power commander with autotune but none of the maps match my set up. Is it worth the money to put on a dyno?
If you want to have it on the bike and you cant set it yourself,your gonna need it set correctly or it is a waste of money IMO.
Probly will cost $300-$500.

[Sny]

I agree. The maps they give you are "safe" maps and are usually quite rich and not tuned at all.

Typically they are +10% across the whole closed loop area and then 13.2 AFR in the open loop area.

It'll run like that but it doesn't really conform to the character of your bike and setup.

Having it tuned by a pro is the best way to go.

[NancysToy]

I'm confused. Isn't the purpose of having autotune to be able to select a map that is close, then let autotune determine adjustments needed to dial it in?

[Deputy56]

Use the map closest to your setup. as you drive it will reset tables based on your setup. Depending how much adjustment is necessary it may require a tweak by you on a computer. Call there tech support before making any adjustments.

[NVERLAST1]

I switched from two brothers to short exhaust
Not sure what your set up IS?
seems you as least have the 2broz single slip so seems you would run
25-004-002 for a stock filter
25-004-005 for the green filter
so chances are if you have a different high flow filter you would match up your map choices to best correspond with your mods. Just like if someone had a different exhaust they would choose the 2broz map as they don't have any other exhausts listed at this time.

[Orange monster]

Yes that was my understanding the whole purpose of the auto tune setup was so it would tweak the map to give you a perfect or near perfect tune based on your specific mods. Is this not the case?

[Kratos]

Just hook a lap top to the pcv, tell it to tune, ride the bike for a while, hook lap top back up, accept the trims, and whala.....you're tuned.

[Sny]

I'm confused. Isn't the purpose of having autotune to be able to select a map that is close, then let autotune determine adjustments needed to dial it in?

On Spyders, AutoTune only works in the open loop area of the map, that being over 40% throttle or above 6000 rpm. On other bikes it can do it all.

What it effectively does is create a closed loop in the open loop area by adding an O2 sensor connected to the AutoTune module. You put in your target AFR's (again, only above 40%/6000rpm) and it will calculate how far off the stock map is and put those values into a trim table. You can then accept those trim values and it will write them to be used the next time you ride. It will continue to record trim adjustments so you will want to go through the accept process every now and then, or when something changes (If you move to a different climate, add modifications and as it the motor ages.)

Under 40%/6000 rpm it is completely manual fuel map tweaking of the stock map just like a unit without autotune. I find this area to be very important to how your Spyder "feels" even tho it has little to do with racing (over 40% throttle) or highway (consistently over 6000 rpm) performance.

The Dynojet maps being referred to above are pre-configured to be very safe. The closed loop section typically will be all the same, for example, +10% from 2% to 40% throttle and from 2000-6000 rpm. And the open loop section will be 13.2 AFR above 40%/6000 rpm.

Personally, I think 13.2 is very rich and found higher values to give both more power and better highway fuel economy.

+10% everywhere is not "tuned", it's flat. It doesn't take into account any of the character of the Rotax motor or your modifications.

For example, Ever notice on a GS when you get on the throttle from low rpm that it kinda bogs down before it kicks? I think BRP did that on purpose to reduce wheel spin. We have a rich spot right at about 3750 rpms from 20% throttle to 80% throttle. The AutoTune handles the part over 40% but under that you have to manually remove some fuel so it doesn't bog there.

I should mention this only applies to the Rotax 990 engines not the 991's that the RT's and all 2013's have. I haven't messed with my 991... yet.

[Sny]

Just wanted to add that on the Rotax 991's the AutoTune doesn't operate below 7500 rpms and 40% throttle.

Seems BRP extended the closed loop area to 7500 which covers the highway cruising range completely. This means AutoTune is only useful for hard acceleration (over 40% throttle), which is what most people buy it for anyhow.

[Orange monster]

Sny - that's some really good information! I read all the data I could find on PC's website about the auto tune but don't recall that specific info. Nice to know just how much it doesn't tune automatically!

[NancysToy]

Sny, thanks for the lesson. I think I'll stick with my Amals and Stromberg 97's. :roflblack:

[Kratos]

Only thing I would add to Sny's comment is that the higher the throttle position, the more open loop tuning you can achieve. I remember at 100% throttle being able to tune around 3500 rpms. I may be a little off on the exact number but it was around that ballpark.