VCM Code C1290

[Web Runner]

Hi everybody!
I had my Spyder's 4600 mile maintenance done yesterday and the tech pulled this code "C1290" from the bike. He aslo said it happened a while ago since it was in the bike's "history". I did a search on SL but did not turn up anything. Does anyone have any information on this code and what might have caused it?

The only thing I can think of was an incident right after I purchased my extended warranty in March of this year. As part of buying the warranty, the dealer wanted to inspect the bike. They hooked it up to BUDS and did an update for the instrument cluster. Afterwards, while driving home in traffic, the engine shut off and I had to coast into a parking lot. The same tech that did the update came by to retrieve the bike and it started right up for him. When he got to the shop he tried to pull codes but said there were none. So, could it be related?

Thanks!

[NancysToy]

C1290 = VCM Voltage failure...VCM supply voltage is much too high or too low, VCM suply voltage spike glitch

Your tech should have been able to look this up. He should have checked the battery voltage with the engine stopped (turned off), the battery voltage with the engine running, the connections on the voltage regulator, and the battery connections (and rear frame ground). Improperly trying to disconnect the battery or a connection with the key turned on could cause the fault. Not to worry unless it happens again.

[Web Runner]

C1290 = VCM Voltage failure...VCM supply voltage is much too high or too low, VCM suply voltage spike glitch

Your tech should have been able to look this up. He should have checked the battery voltage with the engine stopped (turned off), the battery voltage with the engine running, the connections on the voltage regulator, and the battery connections (and rear frame ground). Improperly trying to disconnect the battery or a connection with the key turned on could cause the fault. Not to worry unless it happens again.

Ok, thanks for the info. Unfortunately, customers are not allowed in the service area so I have no idea what was done to followup on that code. Since my bike has the original battery, I asked the person behind the counter if the battery was tested. He went to ask the tech and was told that the battery was ok. I don't know for certain if it was load-tested or not, but I think that is something I can test.
You know, and I hate to say this, but I get the feeling that the tech isn't being as thorough as I would like. I would love to mount a hidden camera somewhere on the bike and record the next service.

[NancysToy]

Ok, thanks for the info. Unfortunately, customers are not allowed in the service area so I have no idea what was done to followup on that code. Since my bike has the original battery, I asked the person behind the counter if the battery was tested. He went to ask the tech and was told that the battery was ok. I don't know for certain if it was load-tested or not, but I think that is something I can test.
You know, and I hate to say this, but I get the feeling that the tech isn't being as thorough as I would like. I would love to mount a hidden camera somewhere on the bike and record the next service.

A load test isn't necessary in this instance, just a check that the battery reads in the proper range when not running (12.7 - 13.0 volts) and the proper range when charging (usually around 13-14 volts depending on the state of the battery and the rpm).

[Web Runner]

A load test isn't necessary in this instance, just a check that the battery reads in the proper range when not running (12.7 - 13.0 volts) and the proper range when charging (usually around 13-14 volts depending on the state of the battery and the rpm).


Here is what I recorded:
12.31v sitting in the garage after 24 hours since last run.
12.01v with the ignition on, engine not running.
13.31v engine at idle with 5 bars on temp guage and radiator fan on.
14.00v engine running at 3500 rpms also with fan on.

[NancysToy]

Here is what I recorded:
12.31v sitting in the garage after 24 hours since last run.
12.01v with the ignition on, engine not running.
13.31v engine at idle with 5 bars on temp guage and radiator fan on.
14.00v engine running at 3500 rpms also with fan on.

12.3 is low for an idle battery. It should read 12.7 or higher if the battery is charged then sits overnight, is in good shape, and the connections are clean and tight. Check the battery connections (at the battery itself inside the body, not the jumper terminals under the seat) to see that they are clean and tight. Also check the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under the seat) to see that it is tight. If evrything checks out, your battery is suspect.

[Web Runner]

12.3 is low for an idle battery. It should read 12.7 or higher if the battery is charged then sits overnight, is in good shape, and the connections are clean and tight. Check the battery connections (at the battery itself inside the body, not the jumper terminals under the seat) to see that they are clean and tight. Also check the rear frame ground (negative jump start terminal under the seat) to see that it is tight. If evrything checks out, your battery is suspect.

If I remember correctly, the OEM batteries are usually good for two years, right? If so, that would put me at about 30 months. I think I'll start to price batteries and find out who has them in stock. Can you recommend any brand or chemistry of battery?

[pegasus1300]

You might also want to check your VOM meter to make sure it is accurate, it maybe reading low. Many here have had their OEM batteries last far longer then 2 years. Mine lasted 4 years until I killed it. Also while 1330s are not known for having their cables get loose it could have happened. Star washers under the bolt heads will ensure that never happens.

[Web Runner]

Hello, thanks for the reply!
However, that was 8 years ago and I've been through two batteries already! I haven't had any electrical issues since replacing that one. I do have a brake failure message, though. But, that is a story for another thread..