2008 rs exhaust

[fjcady]

My rs has about 14000 mile have had all 12000 mile stuff done. plugs, wires(baja rons) added hindle exhaust, running in hot weather low speeds my spyder runs like crap, missing, poor acc, popping, stuttering, even have had it go into limp mode, after sitting cooling off it get better, would a juice box or dealer tune up (buds,mapping) fix? love the ride but getting frustrated :sour::banghead:

[Chupaca]

we have the hindle exhaust and the K&N air cleaner and bike runs fine. You may need new y gaskets on the exhaust headers, may have 02 sensor problem. If the plugs and wires were changed correctly you have eliminated that possibility. Having the dealer check it would be wise.... Good luck..!!

[Tierhog]

I'm going on a short run...can stop by Floyd.. When did the problem start?

[Tierhog]

we have the hindle exhaust and the K&N air cleaner and bike runs fine. You may need new y gaskets on the exhaust headers, may have 02 sensor problem. If the plugs and wires were changed correctly you have eliminated that possibility. Having the dealer check it would be wise.... Good luck..!!

I did the plugs and wires Chupaca. I replaced his gaskets with Hondas too. First I heard of the popping was when he added exhaust. With these high temps we've had, makes me wonder if system is leaning him out too much in the heat....the popping is the issue. Wonder what his plugs look like. I bet he's lean.

I told him to run it above 55mph on some flats...it's 65F right now. We shall see

[gimpygary62]

My rs has about 14000 mile have had all 12000 mile stuff done. plugs, wires(baja rons) added hindle exhaust, running in hot weather low speeds my spyder runs like crap, missing, poor acc, popping, stuttering, even have had it go into limp mode, after sitting cooling off it get better, would a juice box or dealer tune up (buds,mapping) fix? love the ride but getting frustrated :sour::banghead:

I had GS2009 that had similar issue. Bike would run fine until I slowed down and then it started running rough like it was choking. Kicked down for a PCV and autotune and still had issues. Someone on this forum suggested trying the evap canister delete (Lamonster has a how to video posted). Very simple and cheap to do and reversible.

Solved my problem.
:clap:

[Tierhog]

Update: Ran his Spyder pretty hard for 45min. Ambient temp 65-75F. Unable to duplicate till he restarted ( He turned it off at 5 bars and temp climbed into low 80s). Cooling system working normally. I'm going with the pipe. Recommended ECU reset, then dealer with Buds, lastly a programmer.

[fjcady]

well going to do a ecu reset first see what happens thanks for your help Steve







Update: Ran his Spyder pretty hard for 45min. Ambient temp 65-75F. Unable to duplicate till he restarted ( He turned it off at 5 bars and temp climbed into low 80s). Cooling system working normally. I'm going with the pipe. Recommended ECU reset, then dealer with Buds, lastly a programmer.

[fjcady]

well going to do a ecu reset first see what happens thanks for your help Steve







Update: Ran his Spyder pretty hard for 45min. Ambient temp 65-75F. Unable to duplicate till he restarted ( He turned it off at 5 bars and temp climbed into low 80s). Cooling system working normally. I'm going with the pipe. Recommended ECU reset, then dealer with Buds, lastly a programmer.

[Flanker]

Having the dealer check it would be wise.... Good luck..!! Excellent advice.

[Tierhog]

It's good advice. Most of our minor issues can be solved without an expensive trip to the "Doctor" though. If your Spyder runs well in average temps, idles well, maintains temperature internally, and has strong acceleration, it's healthy. A sudden performance loss during a high heat environment only after an exhaust change is pretty easy to diagnose. Floyd's cluster has a faulty mode button and cannot pull codes without it switching and staying on KMs.. (Something he dreads) making a code pull a challenge.

I know I know. Something else could come into play, but 9/10 times our Spyders lend us nice little clues. They are truly well engineered little machines.

Floyd- If your brave enough to tackle your mode button, (Hee Hee) your looking for two codes in particular (more are possible of course)

P0171, P0174

Lean codes can also be caused by

low fuel pressure (regulator or pump)
Dirty injectors
Vacuum leaks
EGR/PCV
Defective MAFS

I'd keep your present course though, as I suspect once the engine gets to temp and the ambient heat adjusts your trim settings, you lean out....hence the limp mode and comparison between hot and cold running

[fjcady]

well went out today after doing the battery unplug and seemed to run alot better just gunna run it like th
is till I get a better idea whats next juice box pro probably just gotta wait till I get more money.:banghead: they are pricey pets.... dammm spyders

[fjcady]

called the dealer they suggested a throttle body balance, hooked up to the buds and see what happens after the adjust they said that it should take care of it?:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghe ad:

[NancysToy]

called the dealer they suggested a throttle body balance, hooked up to the buds and see what happens after the adjust they said that it should take care of it?:banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghe ad:

Throttle bodies are not supposed to be adjusted (balanced) on the Spyder. They are factory calibrated.

[MikeinGA]

Throttle bodies are not supposed to be adjusted (balanced) on the Spyder. They are factory calibrated.

They did that when I had my throttle body I,C,& A on 6,000 mile maintenance. They adjusted the balance and it ran much smoother. It's in the manual under throttle body.

Mike

[NancysToy]

They did that when I had my throttle body I,C,& A on 6,000 mile maintenance. They adjusted the balance and it ran much smoother. It's in the manual under throttle body.

Mike

Your manual is apparently very different than any of mine.

"Throttle bodies are precisely synchronized at the factory. Replacement throttle bodies do not require synchronization to a specific engine.

Note: Under normal conditions the ECM has the ability to compensate for throttle body variations between both cylinders using the fuel injection system.

NOTICE Do not attempt to adjust the synchronization screws on the throttle body. Any tampering with the factory settings may result in reduced engine efficiency."

[Just Doo Me]

I had GS2009 that had similar issue. Bike would run fine until I slowed down and then it started running rough like it was choking. Kicked down for a PCV and autotune and still had issues. Someone on this forum suggested trying the evap canister delete (Lamonster has a how to video posted). Very simple and cheap to do and reversible.

Solved my problem.
:clap:
I agree with the purge valve bypass.Hot days,low speed bike would feel like it wanted to stall,put a bolt in the line just below the purge valve where it goes into the canister and problem is gone.I have a JB and 02 modifier and a Hindle pipe along with a Evoluzione performance air filter.Takes 15 minutes and reversible as said.