RSS BACKFIRING

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

I've checked previous threads for something similar too what I'm experiencing, but I'm not finding anything

The basics: 2012 RSS-SE5, 16,480 miles.

The problem occurs while advancing through the gears (1 through 5) with the shift point @ roughly 8500 RPM
(No this is not my everyday riding style)
But Every time I shift into the next higher gear, it backfires. (Every gear) This only happens if I'm hard on the throttle and never occurs when decelerating (shifting into a lower gear) or driving at what I call normal, with the shift points at 5000-5500 RPM

This has happened when the outside temp was 15 degrees F all the way to 90 degrees F (

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

I hate these phones. My fingers are too big for the buttons!!!

I have cleaned the air filter and paid to have plugs and wires changed

Any help would be appreciated

[NancysToy]

Probably time to replace your y-gaskets. If you have aftermarket performance options such as a different muffler and a Juice Box, there could be tuning issues.

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

No performance options, all stock.
I'll check the Y gaskets and let you know...

[boborgera]

I hate these phones. My fingers are too big for the buttons!!!

I have cleaned the air filter and paid to have plugs and wires changed

Any help would be appreciated

If the wires were replaced with stock BRP wires, I would look at those wires carefully... Stock wires are notorious for arcing when handled, Even when handled carefully......

[bobnaquin]

Y gaskets would be my guess: Check when the bike is cold, with engine running and place your hand next to the two joints, the right hand one being the most frequent failure. If you feel exhaust gas then change them to the Honda part number. Or just change them to the Honda part any way. On the wires, if you are using OEM wires, change them to Baja Ron's and be done with it

[ChasingWind]

My bet would be the spark plug wires - take plastic off and run it in the dark to see if any arcing - you also may want to let the computer auto tune by starting and let it run at idle for 5min then off then go for a ride to see if that helps -- good luck


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[Colin]

Do you have Stock Pipe or aftermarket pipe? I have an HMF Performance Series pipe on my 2011 RSS. Whenever I get up in the rev range ;) and change gear I get a pop, which is what also happens with a few racecars that have the similar sequential electronic gearbox.

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

Y gaskets would be my guess: Check when the bike is cold, with engine running and place your hand next to the two joints, the right hand one being the most frequent failure. If you feel exhaust gas then change them to the Honda part number. Or just change them to the Honda part any way. On the wires, if you are using OEM wires, change them to Baja Ron's and be done with it

This is what I've found so far. Right side Y joint leaks ...... and one off the new plug wires has a bad connector where it attaches at the spark plug end. Observed intermittent readings on the OHM meter while flexing the wire and ends.... Now obviously I need some parts... But what is the Honda part number you refer to? Or the Honda part?

I probably wont have time until next week to do this myself, but once I get the parts I'll let everyone know how it went. Thank you all, and I'll keep you posted

[boborgera]

Observed intermittent readings on the OHM meter while flexing the wire and ends.... Now obviously I need some parts... But what is the Honda part number you refer to? Or the Honda part?



Honda Gasket # 18392-MAM-000 You'll need two, About 14 dollars for the pair.....

[NancysToy]

I know you have $$ invested in the new wires, but if you are replacing them again I would highly recommend the BajaRon wires. He is listed on the SpyderLovers home page.

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

Well I've finally found some time today to change out the Y gaskets to the Honda gaskets. In addition I've wrapped the pipes with silver colored exhaust wrap. Looks pretty good but has not helped the backfiring issue, but it sure helps keeping the right leg and foot cooler!!

Plugs and wires will be done again the next time I find some more time to order them from Ron and install them.

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

Well I had managed to find some time this past Friday to install my new wires and spark plugs from BajaRon. (On a separate note I was quite impressed that heat compound for the plugs and clear dielectric grease for the spark plug boots on the wires came with it because my supply had seemed to walk off!!)
I was able to test it out and the popping or backfiring at each shift has diminished but has not totally gone away.

I will be checking my valves myself this week to see if they need adjusting.

I also have set an appointment up for next week to have her hooked up to BUDS since she hasn't been hooked up to it since her 600 mile check up, which was about 18,000 miles ago!

I'll keep you posted

[Y-me]

Could be the exhaust gaskets.
I had one go at around that mileage though it was squished by the factory or during setup.
The Honda ones are drop in and last longer than OEM.
The Honda part number is 18392-MAM-000.

Y


I've checked previous threads for something similar too what I'm experiencing, but I'm not finding anything

The basics: 2012 RSS-SE5, 16,480 miles.

The problem occurs while advancing through the gears (1 through 5) with the shift point @ roughly 8500 RPM
(No this is not my everyday riding style)
But Every time I shift into the next higher gear, it backfires. (Every gear) This only happens if I'm hard on the throttle and never occurs when decelerating (shifting into a lower gear) or driving at what I call normal, with the shift points at 5000-5500 RPM

This has happened when the outside temp was 15 degrees F all the way to 90 degrees F (

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

She's still popping/backfiring

Had her hooked up to Buds this past Tuesday. Everything is up to date. There were only two codes found, one for a shift up/down and a speed sensor fault which occurred at about 208 hrs. No codes have occurred since then. I currently have 425 hrs and 19,678 miles on my spyder. I had the dealer throw in a new air filter and a fuel filter

The mechanic said he found that the spark plug wire going to the right side was not fully connected. He reattached it and said he was not able to get her to pop anymore. Well needless to say I think I'm going to have to remove the air box and work on trying to get the wire to connect better. She hadn't popped for a day and a half but, she is popping again but no where near as frequently as she had been before I changed the wires and plugs. The dealer was more than willing to take care of it for me, but my schedule for work does not allow me the time to bring it back. It's my daily commuter. So as long as I'm not extremely aggressive on the throttle she won't pop.

[Flanker]

Probably time to replace your y-gaskets. If you have aftermarket performance options such as a different muffler and a Juice Box, there could be tuning issues. My first question also, was potential aftermarket issues?

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

As stated previously the only after market thing on my spyder is the Honda Y gaskets and the Premium Accel wire set. There is no performance muffler, no juice box, everything is 100 percent BRP since the day I bought it.

[BajaRon]

It is very important that you get all 4 connections done correctly on the wire set. I use racing connections at the spark plug ends which have a much tighter grip on the terminal so it takes more pressure to get them to click over the spark plug connection. You will feel and hear the spark plug connection when it is done correctly.

If this connection is not made the engine will run well at first, but as vibration moves the connection farther and farther apart it will start to miss.

On the coil end it does take a bit of extra care to get the connections to line up. It is very important to get the coil connection correct or the terminal will simply lay next to the coil connection instead of being connected properly.

Improper terminal connections are the only problems I've had with my wire sets. To my knowledge, no one has yet worn out a set of these wires.

[H.L.Spyder Guy]

Well I think I've finally figured out the problem of it popping which sounds like a backfire.

Hears a recap of what was done and what I have found:
1) Replaced Y gaskets with Honda gaskets. Did nothing to improve or solve the original problem. Although my right leg is riding much cooler.
2) Wrapped exhaust pipes with Silver colored exhaust wrap. Did nothing to improve or solve the problem but since I was changing exhaust gaskets why not.
3) Installed new spark plugs and wires. Seemed to help, but still pops but not at every shift
4) Brought to dealer to have it hooked up to BUDS. Nothing found. Everything is up to date. I also had a new air filter and fuel filter installed. The mechanic found the plug wires not fully connected. He struggled to get them on but said he got them tight. Ran great for a day and a half and started popping again
5) I took her apart to make sure the plug wires were pushed on tight enough. I pushed and pushed but never got the clicking sound indicating it was properly connected. (I am over 6 ft and 240lbs and can still bench press over 300 lbs, so i think i had enough strength to accomplish this) So I pulled the plug from the engine and connected it to the wire. It would click together but soon as it did the connection would come apart. The plug boot is too long. I ended up cutting 3/8" of of the plug boot off in order to keep the connection from coming apart due to the excess boot length see enclosed pic.73545

I took it out for a quick hard run and she only popped twice!! At this point I'm starting to wonder what else could be causing me grief.
6) I removed the plug wires from the coil to find that one of the connections on the coil pack is tarnished and crusty looking. See picture (AND NO I DID NOT PUT ANY DIELECTRIC GREASE OR ANYTHING ELSE ON THE COIL CONNECTIONS)
73546

7) I cut a chunk out of my wife's new scotch bright pad and cleaned up the coil connection. Blew out any remaining crud and reattached the plug wires.
Now I'm convinced I've got this thing licked! But Murphy says, no way pal!!

I start her up to take her for a spin, and before I can put my gloves on. The lights on the spyder start to go dim, she starts idling like a Harley, you hear a god awful sizzle and its not a steak!!

It's none other than the coil cooking the end of the plug wire at the coil end.
See picture
73548

So now I can replace the coil pack, another set of wires and plugs and I think I'll have this one done!!!

Just so everyone knows I have been working on this since about 16,100 miles and before the coil went out tonight, I'm 112 miles shy of 20,000
She's never left me stranded!! I love this thing and she be running as soon as I get parts!! Ride it like you stole it!!

[BajaRon]

I am sorry you're having such a struggle with your wires. My guess is if you get them installed correctly it will solve your problem (thought the Y-Gaskets were probably contributing).

Don't cut the spark plug boots. They are not too long. What is happening is that the boots are being pushed down the wire while the wire terminal just sits on top of the spark plug terminal and the proper 'Click' connection is not being made.

Your Spyder may run fine at first, but as you ride the terminals move farther apart and you start to get problems.

Cutting the boot isn't the answer. Sliding the boot back up the wire where it needs to be will give you the correct fit to the spark plug sealing out moisture and dirt, giving you good insulation and it also stabilizes the connection.

At the coil end this is what you get if you do not have a positive connection. The clean coil connection was done correctly. The bad one had the wire terminal laying against the coil terminal which is a poor connection. Electrolysis sets in and you get a fuzzy growth around the terminals. It usually doesn't hurt either the stainless steel wire terminal or the copper coil terminal. So, if you clean both and get a good connection it should work fine.

If I can be of any help please let me know. Just be VERY SURE all terminals are connected properly. If you're not sure, they probably aren't. It does take a bit of effort but when you get them right your Spyder will run better than it ever did with the stock wires and spark plugs.

[NancysToy]

Nothing was mentioned about applying spark plug boot release. A small amount of dielectric grease applied to the inside of the plug and coil boots will help the boots slide onto the terminals without putting unseating pressure against the wire. It will also help prevent spark jump at the boot, especially in dirty or wet conditions. If you are careful not to get it on the terminal themselves it might help. It also helps to put a thin coat on the plug wire just above the boot, so you can slide the boot up the wire more readily. Plug boots should not be trimmed.