AWESOME combo: Shock Relocator--Swaybar--Elka shocks

[FaranH]

Some of you who have ridden with me know that I like speed and I like curves and I really like them together. My latest mod is making that type of riding a lot of fun!

Some history...I started off on a stock 2011 RS-S with its fairly soft shocks. I was really happy last year when I rode a 2012 RSS with Fox Racing Shocks, which made such a difference over the previous model. Really loved those shocks.

This year when I went back to the 2011, I knew I couldn't go back to that soft ride and I added BajaRon's sway bar. I thought I would love it, but honestly couldn't tell how much difference it made because I was back to a downgraded set of shocks. :banghead: My recent riding had been on a Spyder with stock swaybar, but with Fox Shocks and I just couldn't discern a huge difference now that I had the old 2011 stock shocks but an improved swaybar.

So at Spyderfest when John put on my Elka shocks, I was quite the happy camper. NOW I could really tell the benefit that Bajaron's swaybar gave me since my shocks were similar to what I had gotten used to on the 2012. Ask Harvey - it was a FUN ride home after Spyderfest.:doorag:

I really thought I was done. But this weekend Rickylen added his Shock Relocator kit and HOLY COW!! It's like I won a trifecta!nojoke

The Spyder was rock solid at 80+ mph on the highway with lots of buffeting from trucks and the occasional strong gust from threatening thunderstorms. Then I hit some nice curves heading to Eureka Springs and rarely braked into a turn. Spyder handled like a charm and stayed nice and flat except in some <ahem> extreme acceleration moments as I tried to wake up Nanny.

On my way home today I was blessed with some fairly light traffic on a part of Hwy 65 that has lots of nice tight uphill curves with the double passing lane so helpful for scooting past campers and trailers. So I scooted and my new triple threat setup meant I could take those uphill curves at just about whatever speed I felt like throwing at it.

My takeaway? Anyone on a 2011 or earlier RS or GS who likes to ride with some passion owes it to themselves to make 3 changes: (if you have a 2012, just stick with #2 and 3)

1. upgrade your shocks - Elkas, Fox or even shocks for the RT
2. get BajaRon's Swaybar
3. get Rickylen's Shock Relocator Kit

One more thing, I found myself riding one-handed a lot today, just giving my left arm a rest. Normally I don't do that much except on straightaways, but today I was just much more confident in the handling on curves. Still was safety conscious but I didn't need to grab both bars as much. It was a good day. :dg2:

[daveinva]

:2thumbs: :clap:

Awesome news! Alas, maybe not for me... since now I want to spend the $$$ on the shock relocators... ;)

[Kungfuspyder]

I upgraded my shocks too, a little twisting of the arm by Pitbull MS, the price was right, actually to good to pass up. Got the relocators installed too. Just got to get the headlights adjusted down a little, it brought the front end up about 3". I rode from Lamont's to Fort Payne, Alabama, it rode like a Ferrari, nice and smooth. Had Baja Ron's swaybar installed at Spyderfest.

[FaranH]

I upgraded my shocks too, a little twisting of the arm by Pitbull MS, the price was right, actually to good to pass up. Got the relocators installed too. Just got to get the headlights adjusted down a little, it brought the front end up about 3". I rode from Lamont's to Fort Payne, Alabama, it rode like a Ferrari, nice and smooth. Had Baja Ron's swaybar installed at Spyderfest.

Hmm - I might need to check my headlights too. Good thought.

Isn't it fun?!!

[StillKickin]

1. upgrade your shocks - Elkas, Fox or even shocks for the RT
2. get BajaRon's Swaybar
3. get Rickylen's Shock Relocator Kit

:agree:
I have a 2012 RTS and was quite displeased with the wind buffeting I experienced with the bike until I added the above 3 fixes. Amazing improvement! Why the bike doesn't come that way from the factory is beyond me. Highly recommended! Worth every penny. :thumbup:

[gnirtsnod]

I upgraded my shocks too, a little twisting of the arm by Pitbull MS, the price was right, actually to good to pass up. Got the relocators installed too. Just got to get the headlights adjusted down a little, it brought the front end up about 3". I rode from Lamont's to Fort Payne, Alabama, it rode like a Ferrari, nice and smooth. Had Baja Ron's swaybar installed at Spyderfest.

Hey didn't they name the state after a country music group from Fort Payne?

No, seriously, is there a selection of shock relocators, or is there pretty much one place to order them? You all have me convinced. I want to get good enough to keep up with FaranH.

[Kungfuspyder]

Hey didn't they name the state after a country music group from Fort Payne?

No, seriously, is there a selection of shock relocators, or is there pretty much one place to order them? You all have me convinced. I want to get good enough to keep up with FaranH.

Yep on the country music band "Alabama" with Randy Owens, I think the relocators may be different from each type of model, RT, RS, GS, ST, Pitbull Powersports have them, good luck on keeping up with FaranH.

[NancysToy]

Hooligan! :roflblack:

[mcaccamise]

Question when adding the shock relocators does the tupperware still have to be trimmed on a 2012 RSS just asking im not to keen on cutting the side panels if not necessary.
Mike

[8 legs nz]

Ok ho is this Rickylen's Shock Relocator Kit :dontknow:

Like Faran,H I all so like ridding fast in to conners and out going up hill but with my soft Shocks on my RS SM5 2010 I tend to take it easy going down hill's I like what her setup is now, must people look at me and say how dose one 6' 10 ride a smale RS in the first place I just do

[Bob Denman]

Hooligan! :roflblack:
:agree: and the World could always stand to have a few more just like you... :thumbup:

[kinggeek]

Agree 100% Faran! My RT-S is a completely different beast with these three changes. I also have car tires up front and they change things for the better too, although at this point you may not notice the improvement as it is slight.

[FaranH]

Ok ho is this Rickylen's Shock Relocator Kit :dontknow:

Like Faran,H I all so like ridding fast in to conners and out going up hill but with my soft Shocks on my RS SM5 2010 I tend to take it easy going down hill's I like what her setup is now, must people look at me and say how dose one 6' 10 ride a smale RS in the first place I just do

Rickylen is the owner of Pitbull Powersports in Springfield, MO. His website is http://www.pitbullpowersportsinc.com/index.htm. I don't know that he has the shock relocator kit in his online store yet or not, but you could send a message and ask. :thumbup:

[FaranH]

Hooligan! :roflblack:

What have I become?! :yikes: ;)

[Tierhog]

I haven't dove into the suspension yet, as I've been focusing on engine/fuel/intake upgrades. I'm finished now, and Elkas look interesting.

[bullant12]

What have I become?! :yikes: ;)

You don't want to know...

**Cough** Aerocharger**Cough**DocDoru**Cough**

Dang, this A/C is dusty today!:roflblack:

[FaranH]

You don't want to know...

**Cough** Aerocharger**Cough**DocDoru**Cough**

Dang, this A/C is dusty today!:roflblack:


70535

[spyderpoop]

do , you think in your opinion just the sway bar I have already and the relocator kit helped more then the shocks or the shocks helped more then the relocator kit ??

[NancysToy]

What have I become?! :yikes: ;)

The best of the best! :firstplace:

[FaranH]

do , you think in your opinion just the sway bar I have already and the relocator kit helped more then the shocks or the shocks helped more then the relocator kit ??

That's a tough one. (Take the now stated opinion with a grain of salt because those on this board who know far more about mechanics and physics may justly disagree.)

If you have the stock shocks on the 2011 and earlier models, that needs to be the first change in my opinion. So if you have BajaRon's swaybar and stock shocks, then your next move should be better shocks. Otherwise it's like putting lipstick on a pig. :shocked:

As for which made the bigger difference, the sway bar or the shock relocators? I couldn't say unless I took one off and rode with just one and then the other installed. But even then is not a fair comparison since they perform different purposes. I think together there becomes a kind of synergy that completes the ride. They enhance each other it seems. I'm just glad to have them both now because the difference really is pretty striking to someone who rides aggressively or experiences highway buffeting a lot.

Don't know if that helps! :D

[bullant12]

do , you think in your opinion just the sway bar I have already and the relocator kit helped more then the shocks or the shocks helped more then the relocator kit ??


That's a tough one. (Take the now stated opinion with a grain of salt because those on this board who know far more about mechanics and physics may justly disagree.)

If you have the stock shocks on the 2011 and earlier models, that needs to be the first change in my opinion. So if you have BajaRon's swaybar and stock shocks, then your next move should be better shocks. Otherwise it's like putting lipstick on a pig. :shocked:

As for which made the bigger difference, the sway bar or the shock relocators? I couldn't say unless I took one off and rode with just one and then the other installed. But even then is not a fair comparison since they perform different purposes. I think together there becomes a kind of synergy that completes the ride. They enhance each other it seems. I'm just glad to have them both now because the difference really is pretty striking to someone who rides aggressively or experiences highway buffeting a lot.

Don't know if that helps! :D

Great answer, Faran... but one thing we have to look first is if Spyderpoop has an RT (I believe he does) or an RS. When it comes to handling, RT vs RS we're comparing apples to oranges.

NOW... having said that: From an RT perspective I can say the sway bar alone makes a difference. I am over weight, but since I mostly ride alone I have no shock complaints and I have a 2013 so the shock relocators are "included";) I have heard of heavy set riders that get the Elkas because it helps on the road conditions and the RT OEM anti-sway bar is made for heavy conditions (designed for 2 up comfort).

So if you are considering the shock relocators (2012 and below), give them a try... Pleanty of RT riders are happy with them!;)

[bullant12]

70535

So this is your reaction that the A/C unit at work is dusty?? Thanks for your concern, but we have inmates that clean and change the filters, thanks!:roflblack:

[pro10is]

Your post is much appreciated and anyone following your recommendations will almost assuredly enjoy better handling performance from their Spyder. However I'd just like to point out one perpetuating misconception that might be interpreted from your recommendations. For strictly reducing body roll in the corners high performance shocks are not vital. If your primary goal is to reduce body roll in the corners you need only add the improved anti-sway bar and (optionally) a greater spring preload. Yes, high performance shocks certainly do allow for a higher spring preload but you can also achieve this by increasing the preload on your stock shocks and, as you do mention, with RT shocks on a GS/RS which have stiffer springs. Alternately you can simply purchase stiffer springs for any shocks. Purchasing very expensive high performance shocks solely to increase spring preload is not a good use of your mod money. In fact with a spring load so stiff as to reduce the actual shock from actuating, the value of performance shocks is even further reduced.

This has nothing to do with Faran's post but I'd also like to take this opportunity to point out that, unlike the anti-sway bar, increasing preload on your springs too much will adversely affect your ride comfort and possibly your safety. If you do decide to increase the preload on your springs you'll need to find a compromise that best suits your needs between reduced body roll, ride comfort, and safety. I recommend only increasing the spring preload until the ride comfort becomes unacceptable to you and then backing off. Don't try to eliminate all roll, this may actually be dangerous. A bit of body roll is perfectly normal and will not reduce your actual cornering performance much if at all. However most people do not like the sensation of body roll which may cause them to back off a bit on corners (which may actually be a good thing safety wise). A stiffer spring rate may also increase the possibility of lifting the inside wheel and significantly reducing the suspension systems ability to properly track the road especially when bumpy or when you hit a road hazard. Do you really want a spring rate so stiff as to reduce the ability of your suspension system to perform it's function just to lessen body roll a bit? If you do it makes little sense to purchase performance shocks because you're not giving them a chance to do their job.

So why purchase high performance shocks? Well if you're looking for significantly improved performance on rough or bumpy roads this can be one of your best investments. If you like to ride hard and fast on less than ideal roads, high performance shocks with their superior valving and heat dissipation will give you the best and safest ride possible. Buy performance shock for this reason, not just to increase spring preload which is a misuse of performance shocks imho. Ironically high performance shocks can also improve your safety in the corners but only if you let them do their jobs by not setting the spring rate so high so they can actually actuate enough to dampen shocks and sway which is their real function. If you set the spring rate so high that they can hardly move then you severely reduce their performance and your safety.

Bottom line: Know what your performance goals are before you spend your money. Know precisely what each component you purchase will do and how it does it. Finally know exactly how your modifications will affect the performance and safety of your ride.

[FaranH]

Thanks, pro10is! I knew there would be someone more knowledgeable who could chime in.

[FaranH]

Great answer, Faran... but one thing we have to look first is if Spyderpoop has an RT (I believe he does) or an RS. When it comes to handling, RT vs RS we're comparing apples to oranges.

NOW... having said that: From an RT perspective I can say the sway bar alone makes a difference. I am over weight, but since I mostly ride alone I have no shock complaints and I have a 2013 so the shock relocators are "included";) I have heard of heavy set riders that get the Elkas because it helps on the road conditions and the RT OEM anti-sway bar is made for heavy conditions (designed for 2 up comfort).

So if you are considering the shock relocators (2012 and below), give them a try... Pleanty of RT riders are happy with them!;)

I'm glad you pointed out the difference, Erick. I was only trying to give a perspective for those on a 2012 RS or earlier model since I've no experience with the RT and these mods.

[bullant12]

I'm glad you pointed out the difference, Erick. I was only trying to give a perspective for those on a 2012 RS or earlier model since I've no experience with the RT and these mods.

You need to ride mine sometime (and get your manual shifting practice done);)

[Bob Denman]

Pro,
You are 100% correct! :thumbup:
When I added the Elkas and the new Anti-SwayBar at the same time; the bike was actually reacting to steering inputs faster than I liked... :shocked:
I ended up taking a quarter-inch (three turns) of preload out of the shock setup so that I had a bit of lean as I went into a turn.
It simply make the bike more comfortable and famliar to ride! ;)

[Desert Spyder]

Here's a question, comment, or observation. I have the new and improved BR Sway Bar and very satisfied with it. Very good investment. Although my private mechanic says the stock is adequate. I have a '10 RT A/C, weigh 280, and have the stock shocks all the way up after 38,000 mi. High performance shocks can last a life time, with warranties, and cost between $1,000-$700. Stock shocks are are much cheaper I'm sure unless you buy them from BRP and their life expectancy is 5-10,000 mi. My driving is mostly freeway and I'm not a rocket ryder. What is a good low end shock for my needs that has a decent life expectancy and rating? Being retired I tend to be ... conservative ... on my expenses.

[Neez]

Your post is much appreciated and anyone following your recommendations will almost assuredly enjoy better handling performance from their Spyder. However I'd just like to point out one perpetuating misconception that might be interpreted from your recommendations. For strictly reducing body roll in the corners high performance shocks are not vital. If your primary goal is to reduce body roll in the corners you need only add the improved anti-sway bar and (optionally) a greater spring preload. Yes, high performance shocks certainly do allow for a higher spring preload but you can also achieve this by increasing the preload on your stock shocks and, as you do mention, with RT shocks on a GS/RS which have stiffer springs. Alternately you can simply purchase stiffer springs for any shocks. Purchasing very expensive high performance shocks solely to increase spring preload is not a good use of your mod money. In fact with a spring load so stiff as to reduce the actual shock from actuating, the value of performance shocks is even further reduced.

This has nothing to do with Faran's post but I'd also like to take this opportunity to point out that, unlike the anti-sway bar, increasing preload on your springs too much will adversely affect your ride comfort and possibly your safety. If you do decide to increase the preload on your springs you'll need to find a compromise that best suits your needs between reduced body roll, ride comfort, and safety. I recommend only increasing the spring preload until the ride comfort becomes unacceptable to you and then backing off. Don't try to eliminate all roll, this may actually be dangerous. A bit of body roll is perfectly normal and will not reduce your actual cornering performance much if at all. However most people do not like the sensation of body roll which may cause them to back off a bit on corners (which may actually be a good thing safety wise). A stiffer spring rate may also increase the possibility of lifting the inside wheel and significantly reducing the suspension systems ability to properly track the road especially when bumpy or when you hit a road hazard. Do you really want a spring rate so stiff as to reduce the ability of your suspension system to perform it's function just to lessen body roll a bit? If you do it makes little sense to purchase performance shocks because you're not giving them a chance to do their job.

So why purchase high performance shocks? Well if you're looking for significantly improved performance on rough or bumpy roads this can be one of your best investments. If you like to ride hard and fast on less than ideal roads, high performance shocks with their superior valving and heat dissipation will give you the best and safest ride possible. Buy performance shock for this reason, not just to increase spring preload which is a misuse of performance shocks imho. Ironically high performance shocks can also improve your safety in the corners but only if you let them do their jobs by not setting the spring rate so high so they can actually actuate enough to dampen shocks and sway which is their real function. If you set the spring rate so high that they can hardly move then you severely reduce their performance and your safety.

Bottom line: Know what your performance goals are before you spend your money. Know precisely what each component you purchase will do and how it does it. Finally know exactly how your modifications will affect the performance and safety of your ride.I very much appreciate your insights here, but I would appreciate your views on the shock relocators. My ride is a GS SE5 with Evo bar and RT shocks and springs. I run higher than called for tire pressures and all my spring adjusters are on the tightest notches, and I only use a 1 inch bar riser. I live for twisty canyon roads, and unlike most Spyderlovers, I don't give a rip about comfort as I rarely do more than 350 miles in a day. Any thoughts on the relocators?

[pro10is]

Here's a question, comment, or observation. I have the new and improved BR Sway Bar and very satisfied with it. Very good investment. Although my private mechanic says the stock is adequate. I have a '10 RT A/C, weigh 280, and have the stock shocks all the way up after 38,000 mi. High performance shocks can last a life time, with warranties, and cost between $1,000-$700. Stock shocks are are much cheaper I'm sure unless you buy them from BRP and their life expectancy is 5-10,000 mi. My driving is mostly freeway and I'm not a rocket ryder. What is a good low end shock for my needs that has a decent life expectancy and rating? Being retired I tend to be ... conservative ... on my expenses.

Unfortunately there are only two choices in shocks for the Spyder right now to the best of my knowledge, stock oem or high performance. The least expensive high performance that I know of are the Fox shocks for around $400 but they don't sell a set for the RT although some have used those meant for a GS/RS, don't know if that's a good idea due to the weight difference. The Elkas start at around $600 a set for the Stage 1's. The more popular Stage 1+R's go for around $795 a pair. I wouldn't say any high performance shocks will last a lifetime but you can have them rebuilt, so maybe in that sense. An improved shock probably could be made for around $250 a pair but no manufacturer seems interested in that price category. Too bad, you'd think they could make a fortune. I believe most performance shock mfgrs use the low volume/high profit business model rather than high volume/lower profit scenario. Too bad, but I guess that make good business sense.

[BajaRon]

Here's a question, comment, or observation. I have the new and improved BR Sway Bar and very satisfied with it. Very good investment. Although my private mechanic says the stock is adequate. I have a '10 RT A/C, weigh 280, and have the stock shocks all the way up after 38,000 mi. High performance shocks can last a life time, with warranties, and cost between $1,000-$700. Stock shocks are are much cheaper I'm sure unless you buy them from BRP and their life expectancy is 5-10,000 mi. My driving is mostly freeway and I'm not a rocket ryder. What is a good low end shock for my needs that has a decent life expectancy and rating? Being retired I tend to be ... conservative ... on my expenses.

If you have a 2010 RT I highly recommend getting at least the 2011/2012 OEM shocks. The 2010 RT shocks were a very poor match for the RT (too little spring and too little dampening) (they work great on the RS/GS models, however). BRP recognized this deficiency and produced a much better matched shock for the later models.

The better OEM shocks will help quite a bit. If you don't think that is enough then there are also the Pit Bull Relocaters which increase the efficiency of the shocks.

Anytime you have to set your spring pre-load at maximum for average riding you know you're probably beyond the limit capabilities of the shock you are running.

[KAPike]

I upgraded to Elkas, put on the BajaRon's Swaybar and Rickylen's Shock Relocation Kit at SpyderFest this year. I couldn't agree more, the improvement in the ride is incredible. Since SpyderFest I have put 3000 miles on my 2012 RT and the handling is like night and day.

I do need to adjust the headlights. Coming home from Lamont's BBQ we drove until 2 am Sunday to get home and a LOT of cars flicked their high beams at us.

[BajaRon]

I very much appreciate your insights here, but I would appreciate your views on the shock relocators. My ride is a GS SE5 with Evo bar and RT shocks and springs. I run higher than called for tire pressures and all my spring adjusters are on the tightest notches, and I only use a 1 inch bar riser. I live for twisty canyon roads, and unlike most Spyderlovers, I don't give a rip about comfort as I rarely do more than 350 miles in a day. Any thoughts on the relocators?

I know this is a shameless plug, but the Bar I sell for the RS is stiffer than the EVO bar. I had the EVO bar on my Spyder for several thousand miles. I knew my bar was stiffer but I was surprised that it made a noticeable difference when I swapped them out.

Same size, different steel.

[spyderpoop]

thanks for the explaining the issue I forgot to say I got a 2012 RT and was more concerned with the body roll then anything I guess as I ride two up a lot and still get a feeling of being swayed back and forth or off feeling ? Thanks again Rich

[Bob Denman]

I know this is a shameless plug, but the Bar I sell for the RS is stiffer than the EVO bar.
That's okay Ron; We've all been shamelessly plugging them for you too! :2thumbs:

[pro10is]

I very much appreciate your insights here, but I would appreciate your views on the shock relocators. My ride is a GS SE5 with Evo bar and RT shocks and springs. I run higher than called for tire pressures and all my spring adjusters are on the tightest notches, and I only use a 1 inch bar riser. I live for twisty canyon roads, and unlike most Spyderlovers, I don't give a rip about comfort as I rarely do more than 350 miles in a day. Any thoughts on the relocators?

Even if you don't care about comfort, you shouldn't compromise safety. Increasing the spring rate (as well as tire pressures) beyond reason can compromise safety so please go easy. Proper suspension and tire performance is much more important to improved handling performance than just dialing out the body roll by severely restricting suspension movement or making the tires too hard. You don't want to starve Peter by feeding Paul. You want moderation and balance so all suspension components can function properly. You can't cheat physics and you shouldn't try, it'll win every time.

I don't own a set of the relocators yet so I hesitate to comment but I have been following the development of them for quite some time. In fact I actually worked with an expert mechanical engineer friend of mine and we developed a set of our own on SolidWorks Premium, a professional (and very expensive) 3D CAD modeling program. We then did a market analysis and found we could manufacture and sell them for less than $100 a set and still make a good profit. What blew the business model out of the water was the cost of liability insurance. If you don't have insurance and just one person sues you because they had an accident and claimed your product was at fault, you're toast, even if you prove them wrong (due to the high cost of litigation). So we shelved the idea.

Anyway what we discovered in the development process was that altering the suspension and possibly the steering geometry is not to be taken lightly. There are many factors involved and even the high powered SolidWorks CAD program we used could not discover them all. What was really needed was extensive real world testing but we decided that there was no way we were ever going to do this testing by selling a prototype as a finished product, that would be unconscionable. We simply did not have the testing and proving facilities that BRP has. I am not saying Pittbull did not adequately test theirs, I'm sure they did, they certainly had more means to do this then I did. I'm only saying that thorough testing is absolutely required before selling a product that so obviously affects the safety of the vehicle in so many ways. Even with extensive testing problems still occur as can be seen by the DPS issues BRP has had not to mention others. So some risk is always involved.

SolidWorks modeling did show that placing the shocks and springs at a higher angle would indeed allow them to perform more effectively, if only marginally. The front suspension moves mostly up and down yet the shock is mounted at a relatively low angle to permit it to fit in the limited space available while allowing for adequate travel. This is a common design compromise on such vehicles. If you notice in vehicles where there is adequate space, shocks are mounted vertically, in line with suspension travel. So the more upright you can place the shocks the more efficiently it can perform its function. The few degrees of improvement the relocators allow does not make for a huge improvement, but some improvement is better than none so I would consider it worthwhile. Just don't expect a night and day difference. Such a geometry change may also make the steering more responsive, and indeed that is what is being reported by new users of the relocators. Whether this is a good or a bad thing is entirely up to the rider. Some people like more responsive steering while others may find it unsettling. This is a dichotomy that has plagued sports car manufacturers for years. A little understeer is generally considered safer for unskilled drivers but skilled drivers may prefer a bit of oversteer. So everyone will have to make up their own mind based up their skills and preferences.

Bottom Line: The shock relocators may improve the efficiency of your shocks and springs and provide some marginal better rough road handling and some improved resistance to sway. A side effect may be more responsive steering.

[pro10is]

I know this is a shameless plug, but the Bar I sell for the RS is stiffer than the EVO bar. I had the EVO bar on my Spyder for several thousand miles. I knew my bar was stiffer but I was surprised that it made a noticeable difference when I swapped them out.

Same size, different steel.

I can confirm this. I have an EVO bar on my RS-S. A friend let me borrow his BajaRon bar while he was on vacation for a week. The BajaRon bar performed significantly better. I was not expecting this because they were the same diameter so I made the swap several more times to compare them again and again. The BajaRon bar is indeed better. It also has superior mounting.

I would recommend the BajaRon bar as a significant upgrade to anyone who owns an EVO bar.

[daveinva]

I know this is a shameless plug, but the Bar I sell for the RS is stiffer than the EVO bar. I had the EVO bar on my Spyder for several thousand miles. I knew my bar was stiffer but I was surprised that it made a noticeable difference when I swapped them out.

Same size, different steel.


Huh... how the heck could I have never heard that before, Ron? :dontknow:

Great, now I've gotta think about replacing my EVO bar, too... :rolleyes:

[MouthPiece]

Great answer, Faran... but one thing we have to look first is if Spyderpoop has an RT (I believe he does) or an RS. When it comes to handling, RT vs RS we're comparing apples to oranges.

NOW... having said that: From an RT perspective I can say the sway bar alone makes a difference. I am over weight, but since I mostly ride alone I have no shock complaints and I have a 2013 so the shock relocators are "included";) I have heard of heavy set riders that get the Elkas because it helps on the road conditions and the RT OEM anti-sway bar is made for heavy conditions (designed for 2 up comfort).

So if you are considering the shock relocators (2012 and below), give them a try... Pleanty of RT riders are happy with them!;)

YOU OVERWEIGHT????? AIN'T NO WAY.

[Bob Denman]

I don't think that he said that he was, "overweight"...
"Underheight", may have been the term used...:roflblack:

[bullant12]

YOU OVERWEIGHT????? AIN'T NO WAY.

Thanks for the support... :crackpipe:

[Neez]

I can confirm this. I have an EVO bar on my RS-S. A friend let me borrow his BajaRon bar while he was on vacation for a week. The BajaRon bar performed significantly better. I was not expecting this because they were the same diameter so I made the swap several more times to compare them again and again. The BajaRon bar is indeed better. It also has superior mounting.

I would recommend the BajaRon bar as a significant upgrade to anyone who owns an EVO bar.Thanks for sharing your experience. Now I have 2 suspension mods to try, the Bajabar and the relocators. I also note your advice on safety and I assure you that after any mod, I bring my speeds up gradually and carefully. So far I haven't gotten out of shape in the corners, but I will heed your caution about over-springing. I won't chuck the Evo till I'm sure the Bajabar isn't overkill on my rig.

[blambert]

I have also installed Elka's, shock relocators and Baja ron sway bar on my 2011 RS. I did not change the factory settings on the elka's and with this setup the nose has a higher lift than before. Went into the twisties this weekend and lifted the inside wheel up multiple times going hard into the corners (chasing my BMW GS and RT friends). Reduced the preload three turns on both front Elka's which also dropped the front nose height about a half inch. Going to try out again and find out the best setup for both curve performance and ride. We have lots of rough roads on the Navajo reservation in Northern AZ so I'm hoping that the Elka's will provide a smoother ride than the RT front shocks I had on before.

With the Kewl metal air intake, power commander, hindle exhaust, baja ron plugs and wires plus running premium gas - the local dealer techs were amazed that they could break the rear tire (spin the tire) loose going from first to second gear. Next stop is Turbo, need to get more HP to catch those 125HP BMW's.

[Kungfuspyder]

Hmm - I might need to check my headlights too. Good thought.

Isn't it fun?!! I found the adjuster knob for the head lights under the right side tupperware mounted right above the radiator, I confirmed this by looking in the owners manual, the fog lamp adjuster is under the seat on the RT. Learning more and more about my:f_spider:.

[8 legs nz]

Rickylen is the owner of Pitbull Powersports in Springfield, MO. His website is http://www.pitbullpowersportsinc.com/index.htm. I don't know that he has the shock relocator kit in his online store yet or not, but you could send a message and ask. :thumbup:

Thank's for the replay Faran I did go to his webpage, did a search for it and all it would say was did you mean this, so yes I will have to e:mail him did not know ho he was at the time so thanks for that. :ohyea:

[8 legs nz]

What have I become?! :yikes: ;)

A stand in for Lemount :roflblack:

[mhoecker]

I knew I wanted to get the shocks for a while, but my husband kinda-sorta encouraged me to wait. But after reading your message, Faran - and all the others - I had to do it! So I just called and ordered both front and a rear shocks plus the relocators. Gave Len my weight and that of my co-rider to make sure I was getting everything right. FINALLY! It is on its way. Now all I have to do is work with my husband to get them installed. Sure will make my RT-S more stable on the highway. (already have the upgraded swaybar)

Madonna

Faran - today, you are an enabler. Thank you! :clap:

[cabodan]

WHERE CAN I GET YOUR GOS SHIRTS FROM

[FaranH]

Faran - today, you are an enabler. Thank you! :clap:

I'm feeling a little proud about that, Madonna! ;)

[FaranH]

WHERE CAN I GET YOUR GOS SHIRTS FROM

Right now the only ones we have available are the gray pinstriped logo shirts and they are available for sale by calling Pitbull Powersports (417-863-1418). We'll be printing more shirts soon and will announce how to order on our Girls on Spyders Facebook page when they are available. Are you already a member of that group? If not, then click on the link on bottom right hand corner of the Home page of Spyderlovers. It'll take you to the Facebook page to request to join. :thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

I found the adjuster knob for the head lights under the right side tupperware mounted right above the radiator, I confirmed this by looking in the owners manual, the fog lamp adjuster is under the seat on the RT. Learning more and more about my:f_spider:.
Just one more question about them:
Which way do they get turned to lower the headlight beams?
Clockwise, or Counter-clockwise? :dontknow:

[jthornton]

Just one more question about them:
Which way do they get turned to lower the headlight beams?
Clockwise, or Counter-clockwise? :dontknow:

Set the rear suspension pressure to 0 using the schrader valve. Then position the vehicle in front of a perpendicular test surface (wall) 33' from the headlight to the wall. Place 200lbs of ballast on the drivers seat and center the focus point between 25-28" above the floor.

JT

[NancysToy]

Set the rear suspension pressure to 0 using the schrader valve. Then position the vehicle in front of a perpendicular test surface (wall) 33' from the headlight to the wall. Place 200lbs of ballast on the drivers seat and center the focus point between 25-28" above the floor.

JT

I would not recommend setting the rear suspension to zero, especially with the seat weighted. That approach could set your headlights much lower than desired when in actual use, when the suspension is at the normal setting.

[jthornton]

I would not recommend setting the rear suspension to zero, especially with the seat weighted. That approach could set your headlights much lower than desired when in actual use, when the suspension is at the normal setting.

I wonder why the service manual says to do that?

JT

[NancysToy]

I wonder why the service manual says to do that?

JT

I thought it was odd, too. It would tend to explain why the headlights on most Spyders are aimed too high from the factory, however.

I'm not much of a fan of measured headlight adjustments anyway. If the beams are too high and I am being flashed all the time, I lower them a bit. If they are too low to see well, I raise them. Not sure why it has become rocket science.

[Kungfuspyder]

Just one more question about them:
Which way do they get turned to lower the headlight beams?
Clockwise, or Counter-clockwise? :dontknow:
Manual says counter-clockwise.

[BajaRon]

I thought it was odd, too. It would tend to explain why the headlights on most Spyders are aimed too high from the factory, however.

I'm not much of a fan of measured headlight adjustments anyway. If the beams are too high and I am being flashed all the time, I lower them a bit. If they are too low to see well, I raise them. Not sure why it has become rocket science.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--Hl6e1Xb--c/TgjTeRxHsAI/AAAAAAAABYg/_haONMWRopY/s1600/rocket.jpg

[witty]

I have a 2012 RT that I put the anti-sway bar on and shock relocators. It made the bike ride great! I have stock shocks and set the springs with the load on the bike. Some day I might change the shocks but it rides nice. It took the body sway out going down the hwy. that can take you right off the road when a blast of wind hits you.:clap:I agree about the spring settings. If I have a lot in the trunk, with me and wife it needs cranked up. Cranked back with load off.:banghead: I love how it rides on the curves with this setup!!!!!:thumbup:

[jthornton]

I thought it was odd, too. It would tend to explain why the headlights on most Spyders are aimed too high from the factory, however.

I'm not much of a fan of measured headlight adjustments anyway. If the beams are too high and I am being flashed all the time, I lower them a bit. If they are too low to see well, I raise them. Not sure why it has become rocket science.

I guess they had to come up with something... it will be interesting to see how much the headlight aiming point changes with load and rear shock settings.

There seems to be a sweet spot that is not too annoying for oncoming drivers but lets you see well.

JT

[Bob Denman]

Manual says counter-clockwise.
Thanks! :thumbup:

I've been having folks pull over to let me pass recently...
I'm guessing that my lights are up high-enough, that I'm getting that red-blue prism effect. ;)

[jthornton]

Thanks! :thumbup:

I've been having folks pull over to let me pass recently...
I'm guessing that my lights are up high-enough, that I'm getting that red-blue prism effect. ;)

The gang we ride with keep telling me my red and blue lights look like a cop... I'm going what red and blue lights?

JT

[NancysToy]

The gang we ride with keep telling me my red and blue lights look like a cop... I'm going what red and blue lights?

JT

Keep your high beams on during the day. It will reduce the effect. Lowering the headlight aim a bit does, too.

[Bob Denman]

But you've got to admit; it's tough to NOT smile when they pull over for you! ;)

[NancysToy]

But you've got to admit; it's tough to NOT smile when they pull over for you! ;)

Yep! Happens on my former CHP bike quite a bit (even in Michigan), especially when I am wearing my leather jacket.

[Bob Denman]

Your stable of rides seems to be Legendary... :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown: :firstplace:

[pitbull]

Thanks Faran,
It was great to see you and I'm glad to get the opportunity to get to install the new locaters on your Spyder and a few others things. Thanks for trusting us and letting us work for you.

[Bob Denman]

Len,
Please let us all know when (or if!) you guys get set up to accept payments via PayPal...
Thanks! :thumbup:

[FaranH]

Thanks Faran,
It was great to see you and I'm glad to get the opportunity to get to install the new locaters on your Spyder and a few others things. Thanks for trusting us and letting us work for you.

I'm liking the "few other things" whatever the heck they are. When you said "Can I do whatever I want to to your Spyder?", I knew I trusted you but wasn't sure about what that meant. In addition to the shock relocators, your secret performance tweaking is just what this girl wanted! :dg1:

[bluestratos]

I have to admit that I was not overly impressed with the Elkas on my 2011. I then added the sway bar and still not too much better so I am going to take your word on it and by the shock re-locaters but I am a skeptic that such a small angle change will do all that much... I hope I am proven wrong! lol

A side note, they sent the heavier springs for my Elkas which allowed me to lower my front end down closer to stock in hopes that the lower center of gravity would help. Not much change but the profile looks better now. Over all my ride is much stiffer than before but cornering has only improved slightly. I love to ride hard in corners and often lift a wheel until Nanny slaps me and says be good, lol... I believe I can hold the wheel down longer now that I have Ron's sway bar so I am achieving slightly higher speeds. I did notice on the last ride that I was riding through the twisties as the ,marked highways speed ( + 5%) even though the corners may have been marked lower. Never lifted a wheel once but have to watch the steering line.

[pitbull]

I'm liking the "few other things" whatever the heck they are. When you said "Can I do whatever I want to to your Spyder?", I knew I trusted you but wasn't sure about what that meant. In addition to the shock relocators, your secret performance tweaking is just what this girl wanted! :dg1:Thanks Faran but we have to keep that secret, Im glad to see your happy with our moods. looking forward to getting to do some ryding myself, things with the new store have been crazy and trying to keep up with the new pace of life has been a lot of fun but a lot of work...loving it tho.

[pitbull]

Len,
Please let us all know when (or if!) you guys get set up to accept payments via PayPal...
Thanks! :thumbup: We are setup and going on paypal now but you will have to see Jimmy on that one:thumbup:

[Bob Denman]

:yes: Thanks! :yes::ohyea::ohyea: :2thumbs:

[Kungfuspyder]

Thanks! :thumbup:

I've been having folks pull over to let me pass recently...
I'm guessing that my lights are up high-enough, that I'm getting that red-blue prism effect. ;)

I adjusted mine and I am not getting that headlight flash from on coming traffic now.

[Harley]

I have the shocks, re-locaters and BajaRon's sway bar installed on my 2012 RT Limited and very pleased with the stability. All good investments.

[Five-O]

Some of you who have ridden with me know that I like speed and I like curves and I really like them together. My latest mod is making that type of riding a lot of fun!

Some history...I started off on a stock 2011 RS-S with its fairly soft shocks. I was really happy last year when I rode a 2012 RSS with Fox Racing Shocks, which made such a difference over the previous model. Really loved those shocks.

This year when I went back to the 2011, I knew I couldn't go back to that soft ride and I added BajaRon's sway bar. I thought I would love it, but honestly couldn't tell how much difference it made because I was back to a downgraded set of shocks. :banghead: My recent riding had been on a Spyder with stock swaybar, but with Fox Shocks and I just couldn't discern a huge difference now that I had the old 2011 stock shocks but an improved swaybar.

So at Spyderfest when John put on my Elka shocks, I was quite the happy camper. NOW I could really tell the benefit that Bajaron's swaybar gave me since my shocks were similar to what I had gotten used to on the 2012. Ask Harvey - it was a FUN ride home after Spyderfest.:doorag:

I really thought I was done. But this weekend Rickylen added his Shock Relocator kit and HOLY COW!! It's like I won a trifecta!nojoke

The Spyder was rock solid at 80+ mph on the highway with lots of buffeting from trucks and the occasional strong gust from threatening thunderstorms. Then I hit some nice curves heading to Eureka Springs and rarely braked into a turn. Spyder handled like a charm and stayed nice and flat except in some <ahem> extreme acceleration moments as I tried to wake up Nanny.

On my way home today I was blessed with some fairly light traffic on a part of Hwy 65 that has lots of nice tight uphill curves with the double passing lane so helpful for scooting past campers and trailers. So I scooted and my new triple threat setup meant I could take those uphill curves at just about whatever speed I felt like throwing at it.

My takeaway? Anyone on a 2011 or earlier RS or GS who likes to ride with some passion owes it to themselves to make 3 changes: (if you have a 2012, just stick with #2 and 3)

1. upgrade your shocks - Elkas, Fox or even shocks for the RT
2. get BajaRon's Swaybar
3. get Rickylen's Shock Relocator Kit

One more thing, I found myself riding one-handed a lot today, just giving my left arm a rest. Normally I don't do that much except on straightaways, but today I was just much more confident in the handling on curves. Still was safety conscious but I didn't need to grab both bars as much. It was a good day. :dg2:

Did you add Elka's just up front or rear also and what stage Elka's?