Electrical question for you guru's... :)

[Riker]

I have installed 2 small blue LED's under the lip where you pull out the instruction card ( blue dash lights, should look cool ). I would like to tap into a power source that comes on when the ignition is on. Below is a couple clips from the electrical schematics... Am I reading this right, in that if I tap into the yellow wire, this will put me on the 10 amp circuit ( the LED's can handle up to that )? If not, does anyone have a suggestion to tap into a power source somewhere behind the speedometer console? THANKS !!!!69989

[pro10is]

I would tap into the red/orange wire that powers the fuel gauge or temp gauge lights.
:agree: Just use a Posi-Tap connector. Don't worry about the amperage, leds that small draw next to nothing.

[WackyDan]

Sorry... I would still tap the switched 12 volt trunk outlet source. Tapping into any other circuit and you are asking for trouble if not now, later. * it doesn't take much to route the wire from behind the trunk to the console.

[pro10is]

Sorry... I would still tap the switched 12 volt trunk outlet source. Tapping into any other circuit and you are asking for trouble if not now, later. * it doesn't take much to route the wire from behind the trunk to the console.
Tapping into the dash lighting for a couple of leds is perfectly harmless as long as proper wiring techniques are used. If someone doesn't know how to tap and wire correctly they shouldn't tap into any circuit.

[1VENOM]

:popcorn::popcorn:

[coz]

Sorry... I would still tap the switched 12 volt trunk outlet source. Tapping into any other circuit and you are asking for trouble if not now, later. * it doesn't take much to route the wire from behind the trunk to the console.
+1

[WackyDan]

Tapping into the dash lighting for a couple of leds is perfectly harmless as long as proper wiring techniques are used. If someone doesn't know how to tap and wire correctly they shouldn't tap into any circuit.

Generally that is correct. The Spyder however has a CAN bus. Anything with a CAN bus is very sensitive to anything that adds "noise" be it electrical or radio frequency. That is the main reason many of us have gone to dedicated relays and bus panels isolated with a diode to avoid any and all issues. Also makes troubleshooting far easier.

Just my 2 cents.

[pro10is]

Generally that is correct. The Spyder however has a CAN bus. Anything with a CAN bus is very sensitive to anything that adds "noise" be it electrical or radio frequency. That is the main reason many of us have gone to dedicated relays and bus panels isolated with a diode to avoid any and all issues. Also makes troubleshooting far easier.

Just my 2 cents.
An led -is- a diode. And you would need much more than a diode and relays to truly isolate an add on bus panel from the primary oem circuitry when it comes to electrical induction.

Anyway I'm well aware of the CAN bus, however just adding a simple led to the dash light circuit or any circuit for that matter will not cause any interference. For that you would need something that can produce electrical noise such as a hid ballast. Believe me I know, I design semiconductor test equipment for a living.

[WackyDan]

I haven't seen this kind of fervor over a circuit in ... well never.
I stand by my original post but there are more than one way to skin a cat.

The problem I see using the outlet wiring is that I don't think it is switched.

There is a switched and un-switched feed, at least on my model anyway.

[WackyDan]

An led -is- a diode. And you would need much more than a diode and relays to truly isolate an add on bus panel from the primary oem circuitry when it comes to electrical induction.

Anyway I'm well aware of the CAN bus, however just adding a simple led to the dash light circuit or any circuit for that matter will not cause any interference. For that you would need something that can produce electrical noise such as a hid ballast. Believe me I know, I design semiconductor test equipment for a living.

I wasn't trying to start a contest. I worked for years troubleshooting circuits using perhaps some of the very test equipment you designed. :thumbup: I never want my dealer or any dealer much less BRP ever telling me that what I did to my Spyder caused the issue - even if it realistically didn't. Sometimes the simple route bites you in the ass.

[NancysToy]

Tapping into the dash lighting for a couple of leds is perfectly harmless as long as proper wiring techniques are used. If someone doesn't know how to tap and wire correctly they shouldn't tap into any circuit.

:agree: It would be different if it had a substantial current draw or was a relay or other switching device, but this application should be perfectly safe.

[billybovine]

The 2013 has a feature whereby you can select keyed or always on operation.
I reviewed the schematics for RT models prior to that and I can't locate a keyed feed on the acc circuit.

It wouldn't be the first time I missed something, could you elaborate a bit?
I'm working with someone with a 2011 and would like an easy key on/off signal wire.

There is one big problem with your thinking Roger. The OP does not have a RT. The RS has a 3 amp switched accessory circuit that goes to the 12V outlet in the trunk and an unswitched circuit with an unused plug under the tupperware just above the trunk.

[billybovine]

Thank You Billbovine, had I looked at the OP avitar and seen the RS I would not have said anything about the fuel gauge wiring.
Still, the unswitched outlet wiring won't do any good.


EDIT:
I am still firmly on the side of adding a couple of LEDs anywhere will not cause any harm if done properly

The outlet on a RS is switched. Goes on with the key and off about 20 or 30 sec. after the key is turned off. Not like the RT that is not switched.

[Riker]

Thanks for all the input guys. Will post once I complete the mod... thanks again !!!!!