SE5 Shifting and Washing Question

[ChrisSpyder11]

I feel stupid asking this but

I have an RS-S with an SE5. I shift at around 5K - 6K, sometimes 4,900 RPM, anyway....is this what your supposed to be doing?

When coming to a stop I let off the throttle and let the computer downshift since it is smarter than me :roflblack:

Also, how do I wash this? I know this has been discussed and I searched but is there something special I am supposed to be doing or is washing it like I do my car fine (tire shine? leather shine? wax? what about plastic?)

THANKS! This whole entire forum is a life-saving database of information :bowdown:

[NoJive]

Not sure about your shifting question, as I have an SM5, but far as washing... I wash mine just like my car, and use tire foam on the fronts. I was waxing with a spray wax, BUT I am now fighting white residue on the black plastic bits. If anyone knows of a wax that will not do this, please advise. I will say that Mothers Back to Black seems to work well on getting those plastic bits black again.




I feel stupid asking this but

I have an RS-S with an SE5. I shift at around 5K - 6K, sometimes 4,900 RPM, anyway....is this what your supposed to be doing?

When coming to a stop I let off the throttle and let the computer downshift since it is smarter than me :roflblack:

Also, how do I wash this? I know this has been discussed and I searched but is there something special I am supposed to be doing or is washing it like I do my car fine (tire shine? leather shine? wax? what about plastic?)

THANKS! This whole entire forum is a life-saving database of information :bowdown:

[beanoil]

Honda's brand of spray polish works really well. I assume the pump spray Turtle Wax would be good also. As far as shifting, the semi auto wont let you shift if you aren't moving fast enough, so you are covered there. I downshift as I approach any stop, and while riding if I feel the engine is lugging or struggling. I see where some folks are recommending high RPM shifts and running the engine hard because it "likes" it. I have cruised at 20 mph for extended times before (campground, rides for curious folks, and kids) and find the Spyder no different than any other vehicle. Goose it and run it hard if you want, or back off and cruise.

[ARtraveler]

RE: Shifting the SE5 I am curently shifting up at 5000-5500 RPMs. I also like to manually downshift. My downshift point is now 4500-4000 all the way down to 2nd. For 2nd to first I have been downshifting at about 3500. The above numbers seem to give a pretty seamless shift up and down.

RE: Cleaning. The spray wash stuff mentioned seems to work pretty good. I use an orange colored liquid--but can't remember the name at the moment.

[NancysToy]

I have an RS-S with an SE5. I shift at around 5K - 6K, sometimes 4,900 RPM, anyway....is this what your supposed to be doing?

When coming to a stop I let off the throttle and let the computer downshift since it is smarter than me :roflblack:

Your shifting and downshifting is fine. As Beanoil said, be aware of what the engine is doing, and adjust accordingly. You'll get the feel for it soon.


I was waxing with a spray wax, BUT I am now fighting white residue on the black plastic bits. If anyone knows of a wax that will not do this, please advise.
Turtle Wax ICE products will not leave a white residue.

[Kinalyx]

Im a detailer, so bear with me here. I dont have a spyder, but for washing 1 i would use a quality rinseless wash like Optimum No Rinse, works great, no mess, not really much drying if u use the Garry Dean Wash Method(google it if interested). Wheels & tires i would use a dedicated cleaner for each & in a bucket with tools that never ever touch paint. For plastics i like a product called silk shine from Chemical Guys, works great and lasts a good amount. Tire shine i use the Tuff Shine system, best & longest lasting tire shine/protectant on the market. For waxing where im worried about residue, i use Wolfgang Fuzion(about $175 for a normal tub, but u can get a sample tub for $50) This stuff is incredible, u can wax pretty much every part of the bike with it without residue).

Im sure this all seems crazy to some of u, but it will give such a great look with less effort than a normal wash, and will keep the bike cleaner, longer.

Shawn

[asp125]

I'm no detailer. I use Honda Polish or in a pinch, Pledge spray wax .. no residue. Works on all my bikes; they stay lemony fresh. :D

[Bob Ledford]

I was using Maquirs Qwik Detal and quick Wax. Now I am using the HondaWaxAn Polish in the spray can. My biggest dirt collector is finger print collections from wannabe's.

Appreciat Shawn's tips. That Wolfgang stuff for$175. Should almost put itself on while you watch it. Wonder how many jobs a can does?

[Kinalyx]

I was using Maquirs Qwik Detal and quick Wax. Now I am using the HondaWaxAn Polish in the spray can. My biggest dirt collector is finger print collections from wannabe's.

Appreciat Shawn's tips. That Wolfgang stuff for$175. Should almost put itself on while you watch it. Wonder how many jobs a can does?




Its hard to say how many vehicles it can do. I have a sample jar that has done my full size car 4 or 5 times, and its over half full. The sample is 3oz & the full(now $195) is 8oz but also comes with a free refill. On a full size car i would say thats at least 60+ coats of wax.

Shawn

[NoJive]

Pledge!!! I forgot about Pledge, thanks!




I'm no detailer. I use Honda Polish or in a pinch, Pledge spray wax .. no residue. Works on all my bikes; they stay lemony fresh. :D

[Spyderfitter]

Yeah I just recently got my Spyder as well and was wondering what type of cleanser to use on it as well as have often does it need to be waxed? Appreciate the help.

[SPYD1]

Turtle Wax Ice here too and a microfiber towel.

[Tierhog]

I was using Maquirs Qwik Detal and quick Wax. Now I am using the HondaWaxAn Polish in the spray can. My biggest dirt collector is finger print collections from wannabe's.





Me too! GREAT STUFF! :)

[daveinva]

I've really never used water on the Spyder (I'll light rinse off the tree pollen, that's about it). Plexus works fine for 90% of the work. It's all plastic, anyway. A little Turtle Wax after, if I'm doing a seasonal cleaning.

The worst is when I have to clean the rims-- I use some Armor All wheel cleaner to get off all that brake dust, but man, what a PITA. :gaah:


IMHO, if you're spending hundreds of dollars on wax and polish for the Spyder, you're doing it wrong. This ain't a Ferrari. Heck, it's not even a chromed-out HD.

[CyncySpyder]

Honda's brand of spray polish works really well. I assume the pump spray Turtle Wax would be good also. As far as shifting, the semi auto wont let you shift if you aren't moving fast enough, so you are covered there. I downshift as I approach any stop, and while riding if I feel the engine is lugging or struggling. I see where some folks are recommending high RPM shifts and running the engine hard because it "likes" it. I have cruised at 20 mph for extended times before (campground, rides for curious folks, and kids) and find the Spyder no different than any other vehicle. Goose it and run it hard if you want, or back off and cruise.


Sorry, but I just feel for new ryders out there, there should be some clarity added to the above highlighted statements.

While its true that the SE5 won't allow you to UP-Shift til a certain RPM Set-Point, many clutches have been damaged by their owners that were regularly shifting at the low end of the range, causing warping in the clutch packs and slippage, which ultimately leads to needing replacement.

And as for the comment about some folks recommending higher RPM shifts, its not because it "likes" it, its because the machine is designed for higher RPMs, with the actual power-band coming in around 5000 RPMs, unlike say a GoldWing which is designed for much lower RPMs.

I mean no disrespect here to the original poster of the above statements, but as I said, think clarity for newer Owners should be made, otherwise much damage could and has happend to other ill informed new owners.

Dave~

[daveinva]

And as for the comment about some folks recommending higher RPM shifts, its not because it "likes" it, its because the machine is designed for higher RPMs, with the actual power-band coming in around 5000 RPMs, unlike say a GoldWing which is designed for much lower RPMs.



:agree::agree::agree::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


The Spyder, especially the RS, is a high-revving engine. It is not suggested to be used at high RPM, it is designed to be used at high RPM. Some riders may want a low-revving, high torque engine like a HD or GW, but no amount of wishing will change the fact that the Spyder is not that vehicle, and riding it as such will eventually damage your vehicle.

For the record, my RS runs perfectly in the 5,000+ RPM range, and is in fact quite happy living all ride long all the way up to redline. There's sooooo much more power up there in the 6,000-7,000 range, especially in the twisties... I feel sorry for anyone who doesn't spend time exploring their powerband. BRP includes all those extra RPM free :), you're just paying a little extra for the gas (and not much more-- even with a lead wrist, I don't get appreciably bad gas mileage, I still get 130+ miles a tank on average. Again, the engine is *designed* for running high in the band).

Related: If you ever have the opportunity to drive either a Mazda RX-8 or Honda S2000, you'd discover how much higher a powerband can get. Spinning above *7,000* RPM is routine for those vehicles.

[Kinalyx]

IMHO, if you're spending hundreds of dollars on wax and polish for the Spyder, you're doing it wrong. This ain't a Ferrari. Heck, it's not even a chromed-out HD.

Honestly, i use this stuff on everything i own. If i bought a brand new bentley, or a 93 ford probe, they would get the same products and prep work. Its not about how expensive something is, its about keeping it as perfect and shiney as possible. Now, if i only had a spyder, and didnt have any of the products already, no, i wouldnt purchase $200 wax for it, but since i have it, that is what i would use.

There are many people on the detailing forums that have low end cars that still like to have quality products and want to make their vehicle look as nice as they possibly can.

IMO, a cheaper vehicle needs more prep work and product than a super car. No one sees a slightly dirty super car and thinks its a POS, but a fairly dirty honda civic would be considered a POS. Keeping the lower end car as clean and shiney as possible makes it more presentable at all times.

Just my $.02

Shawn

[NancysToy]

I've really never used water on the Spyder (I'll light rinse off the tree pollen, that's about it). Plexus works fine for 90% of the work. It's all plastic, anyway. A little Turtle Wax after, if I'm doing a seasonal cleaning.

The worst is when I have to clean the rims-- I use some Armor All wheel cleaner to get off all that brake dust, but man, what a PITA. :gaah:


IMHO, if you're spending hundreds of dollars on wax and polish for the Spyder, you're doing it wrong. This ain't a Ferrari. Heck, it's not even a chromed-out HD.

Just to clarify one little point.....Plexus is a product made to be used on plastic. The Spyder may be plastic, but it is painted plastic. The best product to use on paint is one meant for that purpose, just like the best product to use on plastic is one meant for plastic. While Plexus may work, it won't be the optimum product for this application. Save it for the windshield. JMHO

[Illinois Boy]

I see where some folks are recommending high RPM shifts and running the engine hard because it "likes" it. I have cruised at 20 mph for extended times before (campground, rides for curious folks, and kids) and find the Spyder no different than any other vehicle. Goose it and run it hard if you want, or back off and cruise.

Depends on what gear you are in when running at 20 mph...

High rpm's doesn't mean going fast. You might be misunderstanding the entire concept.

I would be interested to hear what gear you ride around in for extended periods at 20 mph. My guess is you are using 2nd or 3rd... :yikes:

if you run your Spyder like that... you might want to disclose that to whomever you eventually sell it to.;)

[Cleg]

Well in the for what it is worth column, I've used Maquirs, Turtle Wax, S100, and this year Ibiz. All have been great in shining up, but the removal of the darn Adirondack black critters...:yikes: has been tough. Ibiz works great and yes the road and break dust on the wheels is tough to remove. But once done, the :f_spider: RT shines beautifully. I think the key is to do the cleaning more often...:ohyea: