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Techno-Spyder
04-12-2013, 01:34 AM
Having come from 2 to 3 wheels after 40 years, I find the brakes are sorely lacking stopping power after 800 miles from new.
Does anyone from experience know the best way to increase the brake efficiency on a 2012 RS, at the moment the brakes are standard OEM.

BajaRon
04-12-2013, 02:48 AM
Having come from 2 to 3 wheels after 40 years, I find the brakes are sorely lacking stopping power after 800 miles from new.
Does anyone from experience know the best way to increase the brake efficiency on a 2012 RS, at the moment the brakes are standard OEM.

I sell the EBC Simi-Sintered so take this into consideration consideration for possible bias.

The original Spyders came with semi-metallic pads and they stopped very well... but they made a lot of noise too. BRP has gone through several generations of Organic pads which, though they are much quieter, do not stop as well. The EBC semi-sintered pads are actually semi-metallic but use a copper alloy instead of the steel that semi-metallic pads use. The idea is to get the stopping power of a semi-metallic pad with the noise reduction of an organic pad.

I also carry the EBC high carbon rotors which will also increase stopping power. This adds quite a bit to the total expense so you'd have to weigh cost to benefit.

The EBC semi-sintered pads have not been a universal solution. There are many variables and things that can be done to reduce brake pad noise. Some of my customers have experienced brake squeal with the EBC pads.

NancysToy
04-12-2013, 07:31 AM
The Spyder actually has reasonably good brakes. I suspect yours are glazed. Try several hard stops from 45-50 mph. If that doesn't improve things, you may have to remove the pads to sand and clean them. Also remove the caliper sleeves and lube the o-rings with disc brake caliper lube at that time. If the brake caliper won't "float", the brakes will be weaker. Check the rotors for signs of burning or scoring while you are at it. That can reduce brake effectiveness. You won't do a stoppie with a Spyder, but the ABS brakes and distributed braking through the VSS will haul it down reasonably fast and straight. Remember that with a vehicle that weighs much more than a sport bike, it isn't ever going to stop as short as they do.

Bob Denman
04-12-2013, 07:41 AM
:agree: But if you mash down on the pedal in an "Oh crap!" moment; these things will squat down like a sternly-chastised pet dog! :shocked: :thumbup:

oldgoat
04-12-2013, 08:16 AM
I've had all types of motorcycles over 55 years. Some stopped very well others did not.

I find my '08 GS has really great brakes. Never have a moment's worry when applying them.

As Ron said, maybe yours are glazed. If so, an easy fix.

Sny
04-12-2013, 08:25 AM
4 years ago I picked up my first (and second) Spyder and said exactly the same thing. The brakes didn't "feel" great.

So I set out to prove it one way or another with some nice hard braking from various speeds in a secluded place.

They work well. They just don't "feel" like they do.

Now 25k miles later, I've put some EBC rotors and pads on and they pretty much feel the same... but the actual stopping performance is better (maybe 10 feet shorter from 60-0)

More importantly, the noises are pretty much gone.

EBC's are your best bet... or get a new 2013 with the larger diameter rotors and 4 piston Brembo calipers. That's my plan... eventually.

Sarge707
04-12-2013, 12:31 PM
I think in some ways its the angle of the leg-
On my GS my legs are curved at a Sport riders angle and it feels harder to me to put the pressure to the pedal.
On my RT I,m Much More upright and its easier to stomp on the pedal and stop quicker! Just my take on it?:dontknow:

Techno-Spyder
04-12-2013, 12:45 PM
The Spyder actually has reasonably good brakes. I suspect yours are glazed. Try several hard stops from 45-50 mph. If that doesn't improve things, you may have to remove the pads to sand and clean them. Also remove the caliper sleeves and lube the o-rings with disc brake caliper lube at that time. If the brake caliper won't "float", the brakes will be weaker. Check the rotors for signs of burning or scoring while you are at it. That can reduce brake effectiveness. You won't do a stoppie with a Spyder, but the ABS brakes and distributed braking through the VSS will haul it down reasonably fast and straight. Remember that with a vehicle that weighs much more than a sport bike, it isn't ever going to stop as short as they do.

I stripped down the brakes, checked the piston movement, ran a glaze buster over the rotors, copper slipped the pads on re-assembly, but it has made no difference a further 200 miles on.
I gave it several hard stops, I even tried to engage the ABS to no avail. I will give the rotors another clean and give the semi-synt pads a try. If that fails it's not going back to the dealers, but to my friends race shop where we can try it out on a rolling road, then if there is a problem I can go to the dealers equipped with info.

And by the way Sarge707, I think you are right in some way. I did stand up and apply the brake pedal very hard, but it still didn't get anywhere near the stage where the ABS would kick in.

Techno-Spyder
04-18-2013, 02:02 AM
I stripped down the brakes, checked the piston movement, ran a glaze buster over the rotors, copper slipped the pads on re-assembly, but it has made no difference a further 200 miles on.
I gave it several hard stops, I even tried to engage the ABS to no avail. I will give the rotors another clean and give the semi-synt pads a try. If that fails it's not going back to the dealers, but to my friends race shop where we can try it out on a rolling road, then if there is a problem I can go to the dealers equipped with info.

And by the way Sarge707, I think you are right in some way. I did stand up and apply the brake pedal very hard, but it still didn't get anywhere near the stage where the ABS would kick in.

On careful examination of the rotors, we found marks running from the center to the outside which we believe to be preservative which was never cleaned off and a combination of heat and centrifugal force has caused it to be flung across the pad contact area. The rotors were removed, mounted on a lathe and sanded just enough to remove all marks (about 5 thou max). New FA474V EBC pads have been fitted and its been road tested, the result:
A huge improvement under normal braking, I will give it few more miles to bed in before giving it an ABS test. :thumbup: