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trikester
05-01-2008, 02:40 PM
I just installed the handle bar riser. Hence the subject statement "freak'in nightmare" I can't imagine they could have designed the steering with more difficult bolts to remove if they had been trying (maybe they were trying). If it hadn't been an inch higher, with the new riser, I'd still be trying to get the bolts back in.......or maybe just killing myself.

One of the pairs of bolts doesn't have enough room underneath to get a 1/4 inch drive socket and wrench in there, so I had to hold the socket up on the bolt head with a finger, while gripping the body of the socket with pliers to turn it without the wrench.

Of course all through this process of removal and installation I was aware of the "black hole" lying just below, that could swallow up any bolt I might drop. I was wondering how much of the bike I would have to disassemble in order to get something back out of that black hole. Fortunately, I didn't have to find that out the hard way. :bigthumbsup:

I did this using the factory instructions so maybe there was some information posted on this forum that would have helped. I read the postings here, about this, but not recently enough to remember any details but I felt the factory stuff was clear enough when I started - maybe not. One thing, I wish they had given the sizes of the hex-heads involved, so I wouldn't have had to reach into blind areas with various size metric sockets until I could feel one fitting the bolt. All the time fearing having a socket go down the black hole.

Remembering about the guy who broke the 10mm threaded end of the shaft and postings about wrong torque figures, I did two things: First I tapped the new spacer down on the spline with a plastic mallet until it stopped so I wouldn't be pulling it down with the nut. Then I used a shortie handle socket wrench to tighten it, to lessen the possibility of over tightening it. It only has to be snug, because the spline will prevent slipping of the fitting. There wasn't a new locknut in the kit and it says to through away the old nut. Since I didn't have a new nut, to be sure it doesn't come loose, I put a little Locktite on the threads.

All in all about three hours to do the "one hour" job according to the factory instructions. :edit:

Bottom line; I like the higher bar. I'm 6'3" The nightmare is over. Sweet dreams 8)

Frank

NancysToy
05-01-2008, 10:03 PM
I just installed the handle bar riser. Hence the subject statement "freak'in nightmare" I can't imagine they could have designed the steering with more difficult bolts to remove if they had been trying (maybe they were trying). If it hadn't been an inch higher, with the new riser, I'd still be trying to get the bolts back in.......or maybe just killing myself.

One of the pairs of bolts doesn't have enough room underneath to get a 1/4 inch drive socket and wrench in there, so I had to hold the socket up on the bolt head with a finger, while gripping the body of the socket with pliers to turn it without the wrench.

Of course all through this process of removal and installation I was aware of the "black hole" lying just below, that could swallow up any bolt I might drop. I was wondering how much of the bike I would have to disassemble in order to get something back out of that black hole. Fortunately, I didn't have to find that out the hard way. :bigthumbsup:

I did this using the factory instructions so maybe there was some information posted on this forum that would have helped. I read the postings here, about this, but not recently enough to remember any details but I felt the factory stuff was clear enough when I started - maybe not. One thing, I wish they had given the sizes of the hex-heads involved, so I wouldn't have had to reach into blind areas with various size metric sockets until I could feel one fitting the bolt. All the time fearing having a socket go down the black hole.

Remembering about the guy who broke the 10mm threaded end of the shaft and postings about wrong torque figures, I did two things: First I tapped the new spacer down on the spline with a plastic mallet until it stopped so I wouldn't be pulling it down with the nut. Then I used a shortie handle socket wrench to tighten it, to lessen the possibility of over tightening it. It only has to be snug, because the spline will prevent slipping of the fitting. There wasn't a new locknut in the kit and it says to through away the old nut. Since I didn't have a new nut, to be sure it doesn't come loose, I put a little Locktite on the threads.

All in all about three hours to do the "one hour" job according to the factory instructions. :edit:

Bottom line; I like the higher bar. I'm 6'3" The nightmare is over. Sweet dreams 8)

Frank

Our vintage stuff has its own problems, and can sometimes make you cry or cuss, especially the Brit stuff we so love, but things were in the open back then. Drop a bolt, and it ends up on the ground...unless you have the cylinders off. ;D Gues we were spoiled, and didn't know it.
-Scotty

araneae
05-02-2008, 12:28 AM
I found that the Craftsman Wrench Sockets #42801 used with a Ratcheting Wrench worked well for this installation since it is a lower profile than just about anything else. Sorry I didn't see your post sooner.

Bryan

trikester
05-02-2008, 12:20 PM
I found that the Craftsman Wrench Sockets #42801 used with a Ratcheting Wrench worked well for this installation since it is a lower profile than just about anything else. Sorry I didn't see your post sooner.

Bryan


As I was doing the thing with the socket and pliers I thought about those wrench sockets. I've seen them but I don't have any in my tools. Maybe I should think about getting a set. :bigthumbsup:

Frank

trikester
05-02-2008, 12:22 PM
Our vintage stuff has its own problems, and can sometimes make you cry or cuss, especially the Brit stuff we so love, but things were in the open back then. Drop a bolt, and it ends up on the ground...unless you have the cylinders off. ;D Gues we were spoiled, and didn't know it.
-Scotty


Yeah, Scotty. My vintage Brit bikes were setting there, just a few feet away, laughing at my troubles ;D

Frank

kma10-4
05-03-2008, 12:47 AM
did any one find it a little hard to get the 2 pieces ,the top and bottom plastics to line up flush with one another after ??? did as instructions stated but still a little difference in gap
along the place where edges meet

trikester
05-03-2008, 11:50 PM
did any one find it a little hard to get the 2 pieces ,the top and bottom plastics to line up flush with one another after ??? did as instructions stated but still a little difference in gap
along the place where edges meet


I found that to get the top to seat properly, the handle bar has to be in the same position (rotational up and down) where it was before. I marked mine before I loosened the clamp so that helped but first try in reassembly I didn't have if exactly where it was supposed to be and the top cover wouldn't sit flat on the flange on the riser. This may have been your situation where you didn't get good closure of the gap.

Frank

kapapa
08-05-2009, 08:22 PM
I have the riser and want to install it. What size were the lower bolts? I believe that upper ones are 8mm, but I can't seem to get this size on the lower bolts. Also any other suggestions from your experience?

fastfraser
08-05-2009, 09:02 PM
I have the riser and want to install it. What size were the lower bolts? I believe that upper ones are 8mm, but I can't seem to get this size on the lower bolts. Also any other suggestions from your experience?


The lower bolts are 10mm and if you take the allen key in the BRP tool kit and file a hair off the end just so it will fit into the 10mm socket, it works like a charm and saves you buying tools you will never use again, unless you like buying new tools. Also if you do this cut a grove in a peice of cardboard to slip around steering coloum so you don't lose any of the bolts down the black hole as i did and never did find.I took this cover off just so i could spray paint it black to match my Phantom.