Indicators now needing multiple pushes after storage?

[harrypottar]

It's been a very long winter but finally took the snow plow off the ATV, pulled the cover of the spider and got to ride.

Had the spyder in the garage under BRP full cover all winter. Most years with the wing I ended up with mice, it was suggested to use dryer sheets. I covered the spyder in the smelliest dryer sheets I could find, under the seat, every hole, in the frunk, sides and top box etc. Well I think it worked can not see any signs of mice. Had her on a tender and put fuel stabilizer in the tank.

Took the cover off removed all the dryer sheets, inspected, every thing look good. She started first time, I stood back waited for the mass of mice to exit. In past years I would start the wing and it would be like a clip out off a cartoon as the mice jumped out and ran in all directions, this year nothing.


Went for a great ride, it felt better than s*x to be back in the saddle. Bike ran flawlessly, no hiccups, burps, stalls nothing very pleased. The only thing I noticed was trying to put the turn signals on. Before storage just push the button in which ever direction, now I have to push two maybe three times. Not a major issue just annoying, any ideas, dry joint, bad switch?

I thought about squirting some wd40 into the switch but thought I would ask first.

Harry, back in the saddle.

[Bob Denman]

As far as problems go; this really isn't all that bad of one to have... :shocked: :thumbup: But it does need to be addressed: I would guess (hope) that the Winter layup has allowed some gunk to accumulate in the switch and monkey things up a bit... I would GUESS that WD40 is okay to spray in around the electrical gizmos that reside in the housing, but I'd be tempted to try some compressed air first. I know that WD40 can gum things up if you leave it in there, and it would trap whatever dirt gets in also... :shocked: As an alternate plan of attack; try a liberal dosage of WD40; and then a Super-Liberal dosage of the air to blow everything back out; including the WD40! Good Luck! :2thumbs:

[NancysToy]

You should not ever have been able to push the signal switch in any old direction to cancel. many of us wish that was a standard feature. It has to be pushed straight in. It probably wasn't making proper contact before, and it is now. Best bet is to learn to push straight in, and to hold it for about a second when you do.

[harrypottar]

You should not ever have been able to push the signal switch in any old direction to cancel. many of us wish that was a standard feature. It has to be pushed straight in. It probably wasn't making proper contact before, and it is now. Best bet is to learn to push straight in, and to hold it for about a second when you do.

This wasn't for signal cancellation I have and still do need to push the switch in, this was to turn the signal on. I would push to the side and nothing, let the switch return to center and have to push to the side again to get the signal on. Sometimes twice sometimes three times before it would flash. Before storage it was always just once, I think Like Bob mentioned that some gunk as dried in there.



Harry

[MarkLawson]

I would recommend electrical contact spray cleaner before WD-40. It is made for the application you are wanting and won't harm the electronics. Give it a try first.

[NancysToy]

I would recommend electrical contact spray cleaner before WD-40. It is made for the application you are wanting and won't harm the electronics. Give it a try first.
:agree:, but I doubt it will actually reach the contacts. This area should be pretty well sealed. If you try the contact cleaner, use one labelled as safe for plastics. Normal contact cleaner will melt the plastic parts. WD-40 will displace water, but it is dielectric, so it could make contact worse. Beyond that, it's time to see your dealer.

[Chupaca]

With the compressed air. An electrical contact spray would be next but then again it just may need to be used a bit and it will displace the culprit itself...:thumbup:

[SpyRyd]

This wasn't for signal cancellation I have and still do need to push the switch in, this was to turn the signal on. I would push to the side and nothing, let the switch return to center and have to push to the side again to get the signal on. Sometimes twice sometimes three times before it would flash. Before storage it was always just once, I think Like Bob mentioned that some gunk as dried in there.



Harry

Harry, I had the same problem but only with the left turn signal on my 2012 RT Ltd. Dealer replaced left turn signal switch under warranty. All's well now...left signal comes on with one push to the left. Seems this "fixed" the issue i was having with canceling the turn signals as well.

[pro10is]

If it's under warranty let the dealer fix it, if not try working the switch until the contacts abrade themselves clean. Do not use WD40 or spray contact cleaner on the outside hoping it will soak in. If necessary you can disassemble the unit and clean the contacts with alcohol or an electrical contact burnishing blade.

[bertmc]

I have had a problem with my turn signal switch not coming back to center after I push it. The light continues flashing until I notice it (and it is sometimes a while, since I don't have those mirror arrows yet). I also wondered about some kind of lube. Would silicone spray be OK?

[NancysToy]

I have had a problem with my turn signal switch not coming back to center after I push it. The light continues flashing until I notice it (and it is sometimes a while, since I don't have those mirror arrows yet). I also wondered about some kind of lube. Would silicone spray be OK?

This problem is actualy usually a failure to push absolutely straight in n the switch when canceling. The RT switch, especially, requires a precise poush straight in. The slightest deviation to the side will turn on the signal again or will activate the opposite signal. Try being very careful with it, and hold it for about a second before releasing. If the lever actually stays completely to one side, the switch is broken and the multifunction control assembly must be replaced.

[bruiser]

I too have the problem with the left signal on my '12 RTS. Have to push it sometimes three to four times to get it to come on. I already planned to get it in to the dealer.

[bertmc]

This problem is actualy usually a failure to push absolutely straight in n the switch when canceling. The RT switch, especially, requires a precise poush straight in. The slightest deviation to the side will turn on the signal again or will activate the opposite signal. Try being very careful with it, and hold it for about a second before releasing. If the lever actually stays completely to one side, the switch is broken and the multifunction control assembly must be replaced.

I figured out the "straight push in" early on (although I still fail occasionally with winter gloves on). My problem is when I push it to the side to initiate the signal and it fails to return. But it only does this occasionally, only to the left, and perhaps more often immediately after washing. Could the switch be broken if it only fails occasionally, or is it only crud or something preventing it from returning. If cleaning and lubing might help, is silicone lube OK?

[NancysToy]

I figured out the "straight push in" early on (although I still fail occasionally with winter gloves on). My problem is when I push it to the side to initiate the signal and it fails to return. But it only does this occasionally, only to the left, and perhaps more often immediately after washing. Could the switch be broken if it only fails occasionally, or is it only crud or something preventing it from returning. If cleaning and lubing might help, is silicone lube OK?
You might get temporary rerlief with a dielectric spray like WD-40, but you need a new switch. Your dealer should replace your multi-function control. I would not use silicone spray or anything that migh adversely affect the electronics.