OIL

[Jake007]

What are people using for oil on the oil changes. Amsoil or Can AM?

[iSpy]

Shell ROTELLA® T Synthetic SAE 5W-40
A fully synthetic heavy-duty diesel and gasoline engine oil.

• API CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF 
• API SL, SJ, SH

**The BLUE Bottle** $13.97 / gallon at wally world.

Note: The same oil lubricates the engine, the gearbox and the clutch. Use BRP XP-S 5W40 synthetic oil (P/N 293 600 039) or equivalent meeting the requirements for API service SL, SJ, SH or SG classification. To avoid damaging the clutch, **DO NOT**DO NOT** use a motor oil meeting the API service SM or ILSAC GF-4 classification. Clutch slippage will occur.


[TrailerTrash]

I got my Repsol 5w-40 at the Honda dealer. Bought it in the big jug. I bought a small bottle of Castrol to stow in the trunk for emergencies.

I was having trouble finding the 5-40. Our new dealer here doesn't have anything in yet and most of the other places didn't carry the 5-40. They could order it but I didn't want to wait.

[bjt]

I was reading a huge debate about this on the Spydertalk website the other day. One side for BRP's oil and the other side for almost any other oil but mostly the Shell ROTELLA® T. Both sides of the arguement made very compelling points (when they weren't slamming each other). Since my first service is covered under the Best Plus Warranty, I believe the dealer will put in the BRP oil. That'll give me some time to do more reading and make up my mind as to what I'll put in the Spyder when the time comes for me to choose the oil.

[BRPjunkie]

I realize that someone makes the BRP oil for them and it is probably one of the major oil makers, but all I can add is that since 1988, I have run nothing but BRP mineral injection oil in my Sea Doo and after 20 years it still has original pistons and rings. The tops of the pistons have no carbon deposits and the engine runs great. I know that 2 cycle oil is different than multi grade crankcase oil, however, the BRP product has been worth the extra price for me. I have seen inside other engines where owners saved a few bucks on oil and they have carbon deposits and have had to rebuild the upper end. I may have been better at changing spark plugs, doing winter maintenance and keeping water out of the engine than others which may also have contributed to the engines longevity, but after investing $16,000 in a Spyder, $1,000 in accessories and who knows how much more in goodies, I will probably stick with the BRP oil even if it does cost a few bucks more.