PDA

View Full Version : Gas smell is back



SllimG
03-04-2013, 08:50 PM
I thought the new gas cap had solved my fuel odor issue. I only experienced the odor once or twice after installing the new gas cap and then it just stopped. I even did a 300 mile ride last weekend and had no gas smell. It has been odor free for well over a month. But today the temperature was up to 85 degrees and when I got home from work and parked in the garage, the odor was overwhelming. I think the warmer temperature caused more expansion in the tank so the problem is still there. I guess the only real fix is the canisterectomy. I really hate to do that and have a warranty issue later on. Sure wish BRP would give the dealers a fix for this.

baldeagle55
03-04-2013, 09:25 PM
I thought the new gas cap had solved my fuel odor issue. I only experienced the odor once or twice after installing the new gas cap and then it just stopped. I even did a 300 mile ride last weekend and had no gas smell. It has been odor free for well over a month. But today the temperature was up to 85 degrees and when I got home from work and parked in the garage, the odor was overwhelming. I think the warmer temperature caused more expansion in the tank so the problem is still there. I guess the only real fix is the canisterectomy. I really hate to do that and have a warranty issue later on. Sure wish BRP would give the dealers a fix for this.you are over filling the tank wait till the pump click off and that should do it never fill to the neck

cjackg
03-04-2013, 11:57 PM
I thought the new gas cap had solved my fuel odor issue. I only experienced the odor once or twice after installing the new gas cap and then it just stopped. I even did a 300 mile ride last weekend and had no gas smell. It has been odor free for well over a month. But today the temperature was up to 85 degrees and when I got home from work and parked in the garage, the odor was overwhelming. I think the warmer temperature caused more expansion in the tank so the problem is still there. I guess the only real fix is the canisterectomy. I really hate to do that and have a warranty issue later on. Sure wish BRP would give the dealers a fix for this.

Several RT owners that have done the canisterectomy say they still have the problem....

AbNormy
03-05-2013, 04:42 AM
Just had my 14k service done actually only had 13300 miles on it, but read about wrapping the header to reduce heat to the tank so my dealer did that for me and it's made a difference! Almost 80f today and minimal gas smell after stopping, in fact when I got home tonite was able to shut the garage door without having to run the box fan to cool it off first!


Sent from my home in Central Texas!

Captain Fin
03-05-2013, 06:21 AM
I have noticed the smell more when the weather is hot. I don't overfill the tank and I also make sure I hear the cap click when I tighten it down. I think the fuel comes close to boiling when the weather is hot.

MMcc
03-05-2013, 07:15 AM
My situation is slightly different. Never noticed the gas smell with the OEM cap. Got the new one and installed it. Lots of gas odors when parked after a ride. Check Lamonts video to make sure I installed it correctly. Yup, followed the directions. Switch back to the old cap rode to town, 45 miles, stopped and filled the tank. Drove around town 74 degrees on the spyder thermometer stopped a few times. No gas smell. rode back home and parked the bike still no smell. I haven't had a chance to try again as I left for work in China 2 days later. Will repeat the test when I return the end of March. Is my bike one of the odd ones that is rejecting the transplant?

Bob Denman
03-05-2013, 07:37 AM
It never hurts to plany your refueling stops so that you've got at least a short trip somewhere after you fill up...
Burning off some of that new fuel helps to create room for expansion... :thumbup:
(4.75 miiles from the nozzle to the garage!)

bruiser
03-05-2013, 11:20 AM
Once that cannister gets wet with fuel it's done and needs to be replaced or removed. We get the gas smell sometimes on hot days and we don't overfill. I really think it's the nature of the beast. We always leave ours outside to cool down before putting them in the garage. It's not good for them to be rode hard and put up wet. :roflblack:

Bob Ledford
03-05-2013, 06:55 PM
I had a thread running on the same problem. We did the canister remove,inspect and reinstall operation with the new cap. Still stunk up the garage. BRP TOLD THE DEALER THAT IF THE CANISTER WAS DRY IT WAS DOING ALL IT WAS DESIGNED TO DO,

the Service Manager asked is there any fix to which the BRP CSR said that to build a canister big enough to handle the job, it would have to be as big as the front trunk. He finished up by telling the dealer to tell the customer "when finished to park it outside for thirty minutes to cool off and ventilate then move it to the garage.

that was not a good answer IMO so I am just waiting for the right moment to make my case

SllimG
03-05-2013, 07:20 PM
Just had my 14k service done actually only had 13300 miles on it, but read about wrapping the header to reduce heat to the tank so my dealer did that for me and it's made a difference! Almost 80f today and minimal gas smell after stopping, in fact when I got home tonite was able to shut the garage door without having to run the box fan to cool it off first!


Sent from my home in Central Texas!

I bought some exhaust wrap today and gonna give this a try. Of course I can't find it now, but I thought I read a post on here that said wrapping the exhaust was a bad idea. Any problems with wrapping just the sections of pipe that are close to the tank?

Sent from my MZ617 using Tapatalk HD

cjackg
03-05-2013, 07:36 PM
I bought some exhaust wrap today and gonna give this a try. Of course I can't find it now, but I thought I read a post on here that said wrapping the exhaust was a bad idea. Any problems with wrapping just the sections of pipe that are close to the tank?

Sent from my MZ617 using Tapatalk HDI am interested too because that is my next step in trying to stop boiling fuel in the tank which I am convinced is the real problem on the RTs.

El Dorado Bob
03-05-2013, 08:17 PM
I can tell you first hand that over filling is not the issue with my Spyders gas odor. I have worked with two dealers and appreciate the efforts, we have had a pinched hose, discussed lack of baffles and the fuel sloshing(?), to the canister is an engineering issue, to the liner in the frunk and not enough airflow(?) however, the tank can be full, half or a third full and the smell remains. The one factor each time that remains the same is it happens with both high outside air temp and engine temp. Well not everyone has the issue but there is enough to keep this thread and previous threads going on with this conundrum. Should Burp be visiting and read a few threads might we think it would be taken seriously and maybe fewer back room canisterectomys will be happening. Where is a spell check when needed:D

SllimG
03-05-2013, 09:31 PM
Overfilling isn't my issue either. I put the wrap on my pipes, so I'll see if that helps.

Sent from my MZ617 using Tapatalk HD

cjackg
03-05-2013, 10:26 PM
Overfilling isn't my issue either. I put the wrap on my pipes, so I'll see if that helps...

Any pics of the pipes wrapped?

BLUEKNIGHT911
03-06-2013, 01:13 AM
Overfilling isn't my issue either. I put the wrap on my pipes, so I'll see if that helps.

Sent from my MZ617 using Tapatalk HD

To set your mind at ease ...One of our own Spyderlovers here is an exhaust shop owner and has built too many exhausts to remember....even one double pipe and muffler set-up for his RSS ( nicest welds I've ever seen on an exhaust pipe IMHO ) ....anyway He also wrapped his exhaust and told me He has NO concerns about it affecting it's longevity. In his opinion it's a very well made sturdy pipe.......Mike :thumbup:

SllimG
03-06-2013, 11:23 PM
Any pics of the pipes wrapped?

I did a long ride today and was too tired to take any panels off for a photo. I took this picture but can post a better one tomorrow if you want.

63669

Jeriatric
03-06-2013, 11:47 PM
'New' cap, 'New' evap canister, 'New' purge valve. 80 degress under the tuperware on todays ride and could smell fuel when stoped for any length of time at stop lights. Once home it was dripping fuel in the driveway after shut down.

Like it or not, the safest thing to do is let it cool down before garaging it.

Iamjoey
03-07-2013, 12:34 AM
I had my exhaust wrapped and the gas tank removed an put a heat shield on the bottom of the tank. I park in my barn but can't tell. When I ride I was smelling gas but no more gas smell when I ride now. Let me know if it helps you parking in your garage.

SllimG
03-07-2013, 10:24 AM
I agree with El Dorado Bob. It is a heat issue. I will have a better idea the next warm day we have. If the wrap works, it is a $50 fix.

SllimG
04-29-2013, 09:02 PM
After riding on several warm days (today it was 87 degrees), I can say that wrapping the pipes definitely worked for me. I haven't had any gas odors since I wrapped them. Maybe that will change when the temps rise a bit more, but for now I am pretty happy with the results.

cjackg
04-30-2013, 01:00 PM
After riding on several warm days (today it was 87 degrees), I can say that wrapping the pipes definitely worked for me. I haven't had any gas odors since I wrapped them. Maybe that will change when the temps rise a bit more, but for now I am pretty happy with the results.

How about showing us the label for the pipe wrap product you used ...
and any tips on putting it on....

El Dorado Bob
04-30-2013, 11:53 PM
I thought the new gas cap had solved my fuel odor issue. I only experienced the odor once or twice after installing the new gas cap and then it just stopped. I even did a 300 mile ride last weekend and had no gas smell. It has been odor free for well over a month. But today the temperature was up to 85 degrees and when I got home from work and parked in the garage, the odor was overwhelming. I think the warmer temperature caused more expansion in the tank so the problem is still there. I guess the only real fix is the canisterectomy. I really hate to do that and have a warranty issue later on. Sure wish BRP would give the dealers a fix for this.

Once that canister is contaminated you have a skunk in the yard, does not matter if you over filled or there was a pinched line. Your dealer can evaluate and contact BRP for a recommendation or approval to replace. Just know when temps from the engine and outside temps go up you will have this smell come back, it does not go away with time. Just my opinion from here on the left coast.

NancysToy
05-01-2013, 06:32 AM
Once that canister is contaminated you have a skunk in the yard, does not matter if you over filled or there was a pinched line. Your dealer can evaluate and contact BRP for a recommendation or approval to replace. Just know when temps from the engine and outside temps go up you will have this smell come back, it does not go away with time. Just my opinion from here on the left coast.

:D :agree: The liquid in the emissions canister will eventually evaporate, but it can take months. Meanwhile, the canister is ruined for emissions purposes, once the activated charcoal is spent. In the future, because of its inability to even absorb the normal vapors, the gas smell will be more common.

SllimG
05-05-2013, 07:54 PM
How about showing us the label for the pipe wrap product you used ...
and any tips on putting it on....

67610


This is what I used. You have to spray it with a silicon sealer after you wrap the pipes. I removed the pipes to do this. It was quite a job because I had to remove the frame bracket (the one that bolts to the oil res. and fuel tank) to get the left pipe out. Other than removing that part of the frame, everything else was fairly easy.

spydergramp
05-07-2013, 08:43 AM
I have had an on going strong gas smell on my 2010 RT-S , my dealer replaced the canister,and
new gas cap, when the temp is above 80 degrees and ride 30 miles with some stop and
go with 3/4 tank of fuel , I stop and shut the engine off ,if I smell fumes I look in the gas tank
and will see gas bubbling or boiling. to me it is a saftey issue, poor insulation that shouldn't
be the owners responsibilty to repair.:yikes: COULD BE A FIRE HAZARD,AND FUMES ARE
AN ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUE . Maybe BRP could come up with some kind of a heat shield!
Just my 2 cents
Tom

cjackg
05-07-2013, 09:11 AM
I have had an on going strong gas smell on my 2010 RT-S , my dealer replaced the canister,and
new gas cap, when the temp is above 80 degrees and ride 30 miles with some stop and
go with 3/4 tank of fuel , I stop and shut the engine off ,if I smell fumes I look in the gas tank
and will see gas bubbling or boiling. to me it is a saftey issue, poor insulation that shouldn't
be the owners responsibilty to repair.:yikes: COULD BE A FIRE HAZARD,AND FUMES ARE
AN ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUE . Maybe BRP could come up with some kind of a heat shield!
Just my 2 cents
TomI believe you are right on top of the heart of the issue...!

Even with all the discussion and various supposed remedies such as Canisterectomies I believe the only way this can be fully cured is to control the heat near the tank to reduce fuel boiling. I am sure BRP is not interested in insulating all the Spyders that have this problem but maybe if enough owners bear down on them they will get serious about a fix.

2 Cruysyn
05-07-2013, 09:46 AM
...if I smell fumes I look in the gas tank and will see gas bubbling or boiling...

Glad someone finally said it. That's been my experience full tank or nearly empty. Pop the cap and listen. You'll hear it boiling! There's more than a few threads on SL discussing this problem.

Ceramic coated my exhaust. Helped some but...

spydergramp
05-07-2013, 10:38 AM
Glad someone finally said it. That's been my experience full tank or nearly empty. Pop the cap and listen. You'll hear it boiling! There's more than a few threads on SL discussing this problem.

Ceramic coated my exhaust. Helped some but...

I just called BRP 1-715-848-4957 and was told that it was normal and wasn't a problem for the
RT to boil the gas. I say BS
Tom

NancysToy
05-07-2013, 05:48 PM
I'm not saying it is right, but most motorcycles I have owned will boil the gas in the tank under some conditions...including the Spyder. If you feel strongly about the issue, report it to the NHTSA.

boborgera
05-07-2013, 08:19 PM
The boiling temperature of gas depending on the time of year and additives in the gas is between, Among a few other things,;
100 to 400 degrees. I don't think that's the problem.[gas smell] It's the charcoal canister that because of lack of room it's too low and too close to hot components.!!

jmcbow
05-08-2013, 09:49 AM
:D :agree: The liquid in the emissions canister will eventually evaporate, but it can take months. Meanwhile, the canister is ruined for emissions purposes, once the activated charcoal is spent. In the future, because of its inability to even absorb the normal vapors, the gas smell will be more common.

Very interesting, came home yesterday from work, had filled up at lunch time, and noticed a strong fuel odor in the garage. 3 years with the RT and I've never experienced that before. Makes me wonder if you're right, over time the cannister has become contaminated. Will see what happens tonight when I get home. Should note that it wasn't that warm here yesterday, about 72.

Marker
05-08-2013, 10:02 AM
you are over filling the tank wait till the pump click off and that should do it never fill to the neck

:agree: I only fill to the neck just before I go on a long ride and never let the spyder sit after filling to the neck. I never fill the spyder to the neck when it will be sitting. JMHO

Bob Ledford
05-08-2013, 01:07 PM
Sometime ago I was engaged in a conversation between my wife,myself and our dealer when the Service Manager walked up. The owner quickly drug him into the conversation on gas fume odors. Apparently it is not just Can-Am but Honda is having A similar problem with the 1800 GW and its fuel injection system producing fumes after shutdown .

So we are not alone, Guys an Gals!

wis2013rtltd
05-08-2013, 01:28 PM
noticed this as well on my 13'. DO NOT overfill, use premium, and the odor has been strong and potent to the point I am a little concerned about having it in my garage.... I am going to see what the dealer says, I have had several drips on the pass. side towards the middle, and it is fuel. I would not think I should have to leave my garage door open, or leave it sit outside after I ride.

Bob Ledford
05-08-2013, 01:37 PM
you are over filling the tank wait till the pump click off and that should do it never fill to the neck

I hear what your saying but it is not totally a true statement. I have one of the more smelly systems around this area. Numerous times my dealership have been under the wrapper to come up empty handed. I even filled the tank the same way I always do, stick the nozzle in the hole as far as it will go pull the fill lever and snatch it out when it trips the first time.

I have experimented by stuffing the nozzle half way in and filling to the automatic cutoff no difference.

The last experiment to produce a result was insert the nozzle just past the guide hole and fill it to where liquid splashed out the vent holes to the right an left of the fill hole and pull it out at auto cutoff point. That time it failed to produce a smell until the fuel gauge got below the first mark under "F".

So who is right and who is wrong?

I am convinced it is a by product of heat produced by the engine and trapped under the wrapper called body panels. But no one wants to hear it! But, if I bring it in the garage and turn on the big box fan for ten minutes I get NO GAS FUMES!

Why? The heat build up is GONE WITH THE WIND from the fan..................

I rest my case. Let the engineers take it and run with it. :duh: :banghead:

SllimG
05-08-2013, 08:05 PM
89 degrees today and rode over 100 miles. No fumes whatsoever. I am convinced wrapping the pipes has worked for me.

Sent from my MZ617 using Tapatalk HD

spydergramp
05-09-2013, 08:27 AM
My 2cents again ,My 2010 has STRONG gas smell ,raw gas dripping from vent hose.
My dealer replaced the fuel canister and brp's gas cap at around 8000 miles , haven't
filled the tank over 3/4 full sense but still have strong smell.
Next time you get the strong gas smell look in the tank to see if it is boiling.Mine is
boiling.
What I think is happening on hot days, is the fuel is boiling causing more fumes then
the fuel canister can handle and vents to atmosphere.
I made a heat shield and put it between the exaust pipes and fuel tank to deflect the heat
away from the tank. After a ride 83degrees and 95 miles gas wasn't boiling and no fumes.
Something BRP should look into
And thats my 2 cents !

cabodan
05-09-2013, 10:29 PM
Get the dealer to check your purge valve as I just had mine changed today on my 2012 rt se5 ltd with only 4000km.
I was smelling gas and had drips underneath and then engine light came on.

cjackg
05-14-2013, 05:14 PM
My 2cents again ,My 2010 has STRONG gas smell ,raw gas dripping from vent hose.
My dealer replaced the fuel canister and brp's gas cap at around 8000 miles , haven't
filled the tank over 3/4 full sense but still have strong smell.
Next time you get the strong gas smell look in the tank to see if it is boiling.Mine is
boiling.
What I think is happening on hot days, is the fuel is boiling causing more fumes then
the fuel canister can handle and vents to atmosphere.
I made a heat shield and put it between the exaust pipes and fuel tank to deflect the heat
away from the tank. After a ride 83degrees and 95 miles gas wasn't boiling and no fumes.
Something BRP should look into And thats my 2 cents ! Can you tell us more about that Heat Shield.... what is it made of and how is it mounted or attached between the tank and pipe?

TexasSpyder
05-14-2013, 05:31 PM
Picture?

J. D.

spydergramp
05-14-2013, 08:18 PM
I will do the best I can to explain the heat shield .
Think about a car muffler and it's exhaust system, most have a shield between muffler and fuel tank with space between
muffler and shield and space between shield and fuel tank.
what I did is took a piece of thin tin (aluminum) about 11"x 11" and worked it between the exhaust and the tank so it
deflects the heat , leave a space so it doesn't contact the exhaust, for now I have it wired in place.
sorry no pictures

cjackg
05-15-2013, 06:28 PM
I will do the best I can to explain the heat shield .
Think about a car muffler and it's exhaust system, most have a shield between muffler and fuel tank with space between
muffler and shield and space between shield and fuel tank.
what I did is took a piece of thin tin (aluminum) about 11"x 11" and worked it between the exhaust and the tank so it
deflects the heat , leave a space so it doesn't contact the exhaust, for now I have it wired in place.
sorry no pictures
This is interesting as most have tried to make a dent in the fuel boiling situation by wrapping pipes and the tank.

Makes a lot of sense to instead try to isolate the tank from the close heat of the pipes...

Next time I open up my RT I am going to experiment with this... Doc Riverside, are you watching this ?