Trailer Hitch Plug holder [Archive] - Can-Am Spyder & Ryker Three Wheel Motorcycles

rock

03-04-2013, 06:12 PM

NancysToy

03-04-2013, 06:28 PM

don,
we have a 2010 rts like you and have a camper that uses a four wire connector . if you go to the dealer they make a 9 pin to a four pin connector for the 2010s . it comes with all you need including the safety cables...here is the part number ...219400271..it is called... a 4 pin trailer adapter harness/ it connects directly to your 9 pin bike connector...it is a brp part number
That adapter is made to adapt the BRP RT-622 trailer to a 4-wire vehicle...not the other way around! If you got it to mate to your Spyder you either modified it or you are a magician.:D

Wiredux

03-04-2013, 07:58 PM

I missed the post on the wiring gizmo. Looking to get the Can-Am Hitch and the Non-Can Am Trailer.

NancysToy

03-04-2013, 09:16 PM

I missed the post on the wiring gizmo. Looking to get the Can-Am Hitch and the Non-Can Am Trailer.
If you are getting a new OEM hitch/harness, you will not need the "wiring gizmo". If you have a 4-wire trailer, you just need to change the trailer plug to a square-4, or splice in a mating square-4 connector. A 5-wire trailer will likely have to be rewired to 4-wire.

JJW SpyderRider

03-04-2013, 09:28 PM

I used the BRP #710002442 Pole harness then added a 4-wire connector from WalMart. I used the 4-wire connector with built in LED lights to show the trailer is getting power.

SpyderDon

03-05-2013, 08:32 AM

JJW I'll probably end up doing the same thing. I was just wondering if there was anything around that might make it a little neater. It would be nice to have an outlet that was attached to the hitch, There are all types of adapters online that are enclosed with covers for when it's not being used but most/all are plug and go for different applications.

SpyderDon

03-05-2013, 03:02 PM

Did a bit of shopping and came up with these. Hopefully it will look as good as the video when I finish....

http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/20250.html

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tow-Ready/18144.html

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tow-Ready/18140.html

Cruzr Joe

03-05-2013, 05:18 PM

I ordered a Mini Trailer, Shadow Model and the Can-Am wiring gizmo that Scotty and others recommended. It seems to me that someone on here found a way to install a 4 prong outlet on their hitch bar. If that's possible it seems to me that it would be a much neater connection. Is that possible? Does anyone know of an adapter?

Here is mine, let me know what you think, credit goes to Spyderpops because (Harvey) he said if he installed it i would have to let him make it look good. Look above lic. Plate

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/06/epe3uva3.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/06/5uzyhydu.jpg

Cruzr Joe

ingramsail

03-05-2013, 06:10 PM

This is my flat four plug, It's the new BRP plug . A real easy plug and play installtion.6339463395

Cruzr Joe

03-05-2013, 06:14 PM

This is my flat four plug, It's the new BRP plug . A real easy plug and play installtion.6339463395

Unless i am mistaken, that is a square four not a flat four. Two different animals

Cruzr Joe

NancysToy

03-05-2013, 06:56 PM

Unless i am mistaken, that is a square four not a flat four. Two different animals

Cruzr Joe
:agree:

SpyderDon

03-05-2013, 07:06 PM

They both look good...:clap: Hope mine works out as neatly. I called the dealer tonight and they have no idea what year hitch they installed....this could be fun.

ingramsail

03-05-2013, 08:34 PM

Your right, just my sometimer working it's h:cus:ll getting old.

Trickie Dick

03-05-2013, 09:22 PM

NancysToy

03-05-2013, 10:35 PM

They both look good...:clap: Hope mine works out as neatly. I called the dealer tonight and they have no idea what year hitch they installed....this could be fun.
If they just received it, it should be the new version. If it was sitting on their shelf, probably not. The connector tells the tale. The 2013 version has a square-4 that is supposed to be mounted on the right side of the hitch (not as shown above). The old version has a 9-pin, round, Deutsch connector with a cap, that protrudes through the bottom of the left saddlebag.

2ndChildhood

03-06-2013, 12:18 AM

Here is what the 2013 trailer wiring looks like

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/06/ne3ydaby.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/06/y2ejera4.jpg

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

rc51ny

03-07-2013, 07:29 AM

Can this new 2013 wiring harness be used on a 2012 RT?

NancysToy

03-07-2013, 07:48 AM

Can this new 2013 wiring harness be used on a 2012 RT?
Yes. The hitch itself may have to be modified slightly to clear, though, from what a post here said.

2ndChildhood

03-07-2013, 08:24 AM

SpyderDon

03-08-2013, 04:00 PM

710002442 is 9 pin on one end and squar 4 on the other, anyway the one I got today is. Hate to cut a $119.00 cable to install a flat 4 but I don't see any other way. The cable is over 6' long, I guess I could cut the plug off the trailer and splice this into the trailer. Decisions, decisions.... Damn shame you got to spend about 10 percent of the cost of the trailer on a gizmo to enable operation of the lights... At least us electrically challanged folks do.

Scotty and company, thanks for all your input. Now all I need is a trailor, hell I've had the hitch for over a year without one, I guess I can wait a while longer.

2ndChildhood

03-08-2013, 07:08 PM

One thing that I like about the 2013 trailer harness is that I did not need to buy that $119 plug and cut the end off.

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

SpyderDon

03-08-2013, 08:06 PM

If you have the new 2013 BRP hitch, here is the Square 4 plug you need to go to a non BRP trailer. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BE60ZU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As Scotty said, you will need to replace the flat four plug on your trailer with one of these.

The item you suggested will not fit into the plug that came with my cable. The four holes are about the size of a large needle. The company that made them calls them automotive connectors but I cannot find the male part. Back to plan A or maybe B...LOL

Bottom line, when the trailer gets here it will have lights... I'll figure it out.

NancysToy

03-08-2013, 09:15 PM

A local trailer shop should be able to fix you up if your local auto parts store (try NAPA) doesn't carry a square-4 trailer connector.

Trickie Dick

03-08-2013, 10:24 PM

The item you suggested will not fit into the plug that came with my cable. The four holes are about the size of a large needle. The company that made them calls them automotive connectors but I cannot find the male part. Back to plan A or maybe B...LOL

Bottom line, when the trailer gets here it will have lights... I'll figure it out.

It fits mine just fine. :dontknow: Are you sure you are looking at the right end of the cable? There is a 4 pin needle size male connector on one end. On the other is a cap that covers the connector to the trailer That's where the Amazon connector plugs in.

SpyderDon

03-09-2013, 10:05 AM

I may be challenged but I know what I'm looking at. One end of the cable has the big round 9 pin plug to hook into the plug on the RT. The other end is unlike any plug I've ever seen. It has a clip on top to keep the two parts secure, obviously it's a quick connect for some application, maybe some Can-Am trailers have the clip installed. Beats hell out of me, All I know is that it ain't all that difficult to hook up the big plug so I'll do something, hopefully the right thing... Wish me luck,

SpyderDon

03-09-2013, 12:53 PM

Could this be a plug to convert the 10-12's round plug to the 13 trailers? Just a thought..:dontknow:

SpyderDon

03-09-2013, 08:59 PM

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif DSCN5236.jpg (41.4 KB)

If the picture downloads it's the cable I received, can anyone tell me what it is?

NancysToy

03-09-2013, 09:09 PM

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif DSCN5236.jpg (41.4 KB)

If the picture downloads it's the cable I received, can anyone tell me what it is?
That is the Trailer Pole Harness for the 2011/2012 RT-622. It can be used to make an adapter from an early Spyder 9-pin connector (on the Spyder itself) to a 4-pin trailer by replacing the square connector with the proper trailer plug. It may not work for brake lights with the 2010 versions of the OEM module, however.

SpyderDon

03-09-2013, 09:49 PM

NancysToy

03-09-2013, 10:09 PM

Thanks again Scotty. I have no idea what year hitch and trailer plug I have. Even though I have a '10 RT the hitch was not installed until last year, it had to be ordered by the dealer so I assume (know what that means) it's an '11 or '12 which would be perfect. I think I'll just cut off the trailer plug and wire it up directly. At this point I think I'll just wait until the trailer comes in.
:thumbup: Cutting off the trailer plug and wiring in the pole harness is another good way. That is the purpose the pole harness serves on the RT-622. You could also splice it in, keeping the flat-4, and have the best of both worlds. Test your connections before making them permanent. The Spyder harness color code may be different. Be sure to leave enough length to reach the Spyder connector and have plenty of slack. The Spyder connector is farther than normal from the hitch ball.

Trickie Dick

03-09-2013, 10:21 PM

If you have the new 2013 BRP hitch, here is the Square 4 plug you need to go to a non BRP trailer. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BE60ZU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 As Scotty said, you will need to replace the flat four plug on your trailer with one of these.

Thanks again Scotty. I have no idea what year hitch and trailer plug I have. Even though I have a '10 RT the hitch was not installed until last year, it had to be ordered by the dealer so I assume (know what that means) it's an '11 or '12 which would be perfect. I think I'll just cut off the trailer plug and wire it up directly. At this point I think I'll just wait until the trailer comes in.

Sorry SpyderDon,I just assumed you had a 2013 hitch since in my original post I stated this is for a 2013.

SpyderDon

03-09-2013, 11:09 PM

Trickie Dick, first off, I love your handle, and, not a problem. I hate everything electrical, long story but I learned at an early age that it ain't fun and I sorta avoid working with it, 120 - 240 or 12 it makes no difference, hell in my working life I had a lot of 24 v stuff and I didn't like that much eithor...
I'll probably go to the local trailer dealer and see what it will cost me to hook all this crap up. Better safe than sorry.

This is a great site. Have a problem, ask. Someone will answer and there is a lot of experise. Thanks everyone. An aside, I went over 29,000 miles today. Ole #773 is chugging along, there have been growing pains but all, in, all, it's been a great experience. I have never owned anything that has given me the smile per mile that the Spyder has....

SpyderDon

03-26-2013, 02:20 PM

Scotty, everything is together. Took a little trip today to check it out and it is great. Know it will make traveling two up much easier.

Again, thanks to everyone that contributed. Don

JJRider

03-26-2013, 03:14 PM

Sorry for going over and over but I just am trying to get it straight.

Have a 2012 RT-S and will pull a new Bushtec Turbo Trailer which comes with a 6 pin plug

Buy 2013 RT Hitch and Wiring Harness
Buy a BRP 4 Pin plug adapter which will plug into the bikes harness and allow for a square four trailer plug
Trailer will come with LED brake lights and I will re-wire the 6 pin plug to a four pin square connector using only 4 wires.

Last of all, do I need the Bushtec Electric Relay Isolater with this setup?

Thank you!

bmwlarry

03-26-2013, 04:40 PM

I used the round type plug.
653366533765338

NancysToy

03-26-2013, 07:29 PM

Scotty, everything is together. Took a little trip today to check it out and it is great. Know it will make traveling two up much easier.

Again, thanks to everyone that contributed. Don
:thumbup:

Sorry for going over and over but I just am trying to get it straight.

Have a 2012 RT-S and will pull a new Bushtec Turbo Trailer which comes with a 6 pin plug

Buy 2013 RT Hitch and Wiring Harness
Buy a BRP 4 Pin plug adapter which will plug into the bikes harness and allow for a square four trailer plug
Trailer will come with LED brake lights and I will re-wire the 6 pin plug to a four pin square connector using only 4 wires.

Last of all, do I need the Bushtec Electric Relay Isolater with this setup?

Thank you!
Sorry, you don't have it quite right.

1. Buy and install latest (2013) BRP hitch and harness
2. Buy square-4 connector at auto parts or trailer store
3. Either replace Bushtec 6-pole connector with the mating square-4 from step 2, or splice in the square-4 to retain both connectors
Note: If the Bustec is equipped as 5-wire (separate turn signals), it will need to be rewired.

You will not need an additional converter or isolator, it is built in to the BRP harness.

JJRider

03-26-2013, 09:26 PM

Got thank you!

2ndChildhood

03-26-2013, 09:49 PM

I just finished up restoring a pull between trailer. This trailer will be pull by my Spyder or by a friend's Goldwing. The GW is a 5 wire, so the trailer needed separate amber turn signals. When I received my trailer hitch it was the new 2013, with the 4 wire harness. So I had a problem.

This is how I wired the trailer to work with both bikes.

On the Spyder 4 wire plug

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/27/u4apa2yz.jpg

White wire - ground
Yellow wire - left turn (amber light)
Green wire - right turn (amber light)
Brown wire - tail lights/running lights (round lights)

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/27/sunura6e.jpg

Then I ran a red wire from the 5 wire side of the 5 to 4 wire module
The GW has a 6 wire plug a blue wire that not used.

The red wire to the brakes lights (round lights) and the light bar with a XP back-off module.

So the hook up on the Spyder is not a true 5 wire system, so the light works a little different between the two bikes. When hooked to the GW the amber lights only comes on with the left or right turn signals. On the Spyder the amber lights works as the turn signals and also come on with the brake lights. I have red lenses to replace the amber ones if I run into a problem with DOT.

Problem solved!

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

NancysToy

03-26-2013, 10:01 PM

I just finished up restoring a pull between trailer. This trailer will be pull by my Spyder or by a friend's Goldwing. The GW is a 5 wire, so the trailer needed separate amber turn signals. When I received my trailer hitch it was the new 2013, with the 4 wire harness. So I had a problem.

This is how I wired the trailer to work with both bikes.

On the Spyder 4 wire plug

White wire - ground
Yellow wire - left turn (amber light)
Green wire - right turn (amber light)
Brown wire - tail lights/running lights (round lights)

Then I ran a red wire from the 5 wire side of the 5 to 4 wire module
The GW has a 6 wire plug a blue wire that not used.

The red wire to the brakes lights (round lights) and the light bar with a XP back-off module.

So the hook up on the Spyder is not a true 5 wire system, so the light works a little different between the two bikes. When hooked to the GW the amber lights only comes on with the left or right turn signals. On the Spyder the amber lights works as the turn signals and also come on with the brake lights. I have red lenses to replace the amber ones if I run into a problem with DOT.

Problem solved!

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Michigan law allows amber brake lights. I'd carry a copy of the law to educate some LEOs, if necessary. I can't speak to other states. My concern would be for following drivers not understanding the amber brake lights, when they are used to red. The amber just may not register in their brains. I'd switch to the reds to have red turn signals instead. JMHO

SpyderDon

03-27-2013, 01:51 PM

65371 My new toy all put together. All the lights work too...

2ndChildhood

03-27-2013, 02:03 PM

Its great when a plan comes together

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

JJRider

04-26-2013, 05:47 PM

Sorry but I thought I read that Scotty mentioned NOT to splice into the Spyder 5 wire side before the module?

I will wire my Bushtec (Bushwacked) this weekend and will need to rewire the trailers turn signal and brake lights and turn the trailer from a 5 wire to a 4 wire.

2ndChildhood

04-26-2013, 05:59 PM

I am using the all the wires on the 4 wire side, and the red wire for the main brake lights is hooked to the red wire on the 5 wire side. It is working great for me. The only thing is the amber and main red lights comes on when braking. I made it to Spyderfest without any problems with the trailer.

Be Safe
ToM

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

JJRider

04-27-2013, 12:59 AM

Thank you Tom for the info. I wonder what the reason would be (Scotty) that we are not supposed to wire before the module?

NancysToy

04-27-2013, 05:48 AM

Thank you Tom for the info. I wonder what the reason would be (Scotty) that we are not supposed to wire before the module?
I don't recall ever saying that. The only caution that I would have would be that wiring before the module (which is the same as tapping into the wires without a module) would not provide an isolated (self-powered) output, as the module does. Also, you cannot get a 4-wire connection that way without an additional converter.

JJRider

04-28-2013, 01:54 AM

Scotty, I probably worded it wrong, but what you said above as a word of caution when wiring before the isolation module is what I should have quoted.

I finished the wiring today to allow the new Bushtec Turbo 2 to work with the Spyder.

2012 Spyder RT-S
"new" 2013 BRP Hitch and Harness (4 pin square connector mounted to lower left side case)
2013 Bushtec Turbo 2+ Trailer with 6 pin Flat Harness

(sending back the Bushtech Isolator package that they said I "HAD" to have even after explaining why I didn't need it with the new hitch and harness)

Purchased a Hopkins 4 pin Square connector off Amazon

I decided not to wire a 5th wire before the Spyder module and instead re-wired the lights on the Bushtec trailer. I ordered the trailer with LED turn signals and LED brake/taillights. Since the Bushtec is a 6 pin flat harness, I did not use the blue (brake light) or the black (12v powered) wires. I re-wired the turn signals and the taillights together as a 4 wire system. Now to go get Calif. DMV approval. Ugh!

I purchased one of the lesser priced Bushtec trailers but by the time it was built and shipped, and ordered the heim joint for the Spyder hitch I was getting close in price to a nice matching RT-622.

Dragonfly

12-23-2013, 09:52 PM

Yes, I have installed the 2013 hitch on my 2012 RTL. No problems at all. It took about half hour to install the hitch. The harness was the hardest part to run, it took about hour and a half.

ToM
SpyderFest 2013

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I appreciate your confidence.
I received my BRP hitch last week for my 2013 RT and the hitch mounting does look fairly easy, however I'm totally lost with the wiring harness since the instructions that came with it is nothing but some close up pictures and I'm guessing at having to take off most of the rear Tupperware. Any advice would be appreciated :bowdown:

NancysToy

12-23-2013, 10:56 PM

I appreciate your confidence.
I received my BRP hitch last week for my 2013 RT and the hitch mounting does look fairly easy, however I'm totally lost with the wiring harness since the instructions that came with it is nothing but some close up pictures and I'm guessing at having to take off most of the rear Tupperware. Any advice would be appreciated :bowdown:
The instructions are more than pictures. They tell which tupperware to remove.

jaherbst

12-24-2013, 01:07 AM

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif DSCN5236.jpg (41.4 KB)If the picture downloads it's the cable I received, can anyone tell me what it is?Thats the standard harness for the trailer prior to 2013. DO NOT SPLICE! It goes through the tongue of the R622 triler and connects about a foot back underneath the trailer. Thats why it is 6 feet long. I replaced with a 2013 square four prong harness to plug into the new 2013 RTS hitch. No splicing required. PLUG AND PLAY. Now if you are trying to hook up a non BRP trailer you have a different problem. Remember this is a CAN BUSS electrical system and many things are driven through the plugs such as your VSS which is read from sensors off the R622 whells. A non BRP trailer hookup voids your warranty. I have a four year warranty which is why I went with a BRP trailer. The RTS is 2013 and the R622 is a 2012.Jack

NancysToy

12-24-2013, 07:49 AM

Thats the standard harness for the trailer prior to 2013. DO NOT SPLICE! It goes through the tongue of the R622 triler and connects about a foot back underneath the trailer. Thats why it is 6 feet long. I replaced with a 2013 square four prong harness to plug into the new 2013 RTS hitch. No splicing required. PLUG AND PLAY. Now if you are trying to hook up a non BRP trailer you have a different problem. Remember this is a CAN BUSS electrical system and many things are driven through the plugs such as your VSS which is read from sensors off the R622 whells. A non BRP trailer hookup voids your warranty. I have a four year warranty which is why I went with a BRP trailer. The RTS is 2013 and the R622 is a 2012.Jack

None of the trailer wiring except the module itself (on the brake light circuit) is monitored by the CANbus. Nothing is connected to the CANbus directly. The trailer does not affect the VSS and there are no sensors in the RT-622. I understand that the 2013 will sense the lighting load and switch to trailer mode automatically on the SE, but I have not verified that. Earlier Spyders and SMs do not do so. You will not invalidate your warranty by connecting a non-BRP trailer or wiring...although related problems may not be covered if they can be shown to have been caused by or aggravated by the connection. That is the law in the US.

Gray Ghost

12-26-2013, 06:41 AM

I have a 2013 RT pulling a 2010 622. The RT doesn't switch automatically to the trailer mode on mine.

Dragonfly

12-27-2013, 07:46 PM

The instructions are more than pictures. They tell which tupperware to remove.

Took some guessing and after leaving a pint of blood (sharp edges) I got the wiring done. The accompanying instruction manual only had pictures with arrows for the harness installation. The two items that where not discussed in the instructions, (1) a small screw inside each side of the lower fender (2) the battery cover under the seat for pre 2013s shows lifted up but in reality that cover needed to be removed and passenger hand hold heater cable unplugged. Other than that it was a 2 1/2 hr. job.

Two other points I noticed in the instructions (1) it says to hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the bolt (backwards) and (2) there is nothing in the instructions that tells to reinstall the carter key on the original nut when not using the hitch or is the long bolt inserted back through the axle even without the hitch? What is the downside for leaving the hitch on the bike?

NancysToy

12-27-2013, 08:19 PM

Took some guessing and after leaving a pint of blood (sharp edges) I got the wiring done. The accompanying instruction manual only had pictures with arrows for the harness installation. The two items that where not discussed in the instructions, (1) a small screw inside each side of the lower fender (2) the battery cover under the seat for pre 2013s shows lifted up but in reality that cover needed to be removed and passenger hand hold heater cable unplugged. Other than that it was a 2 1/2 hr. job.

Two other points I noticed in the instructions (1) it says to hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the bolt (backwards) and (2) there is nothing in the instructions that tells to reinstall the carter key on the original nut when not using the hitch or is the long bolt inserted back through the axle even without the hitch? What is the downside for leaving the hitch on the bike?

Surprised that the instructions no longer have written directions. I'd love a copy if you scan them sometime. PM me if you do.

You put the cotter key back in the axle when the hitch is removed. I don't know about now, but they used to include extra cotter keys for that purpose. The biggest problems with leaving the hitch on are that:
A. Dirt and dust build-up between the hitch and the swingarm can damage the swingarm paint (powdercoat).
B. If the hitch pin is left in place, it can corrode tightly into the axle (or hitch) if the Spyder is ridden regularly in the snow and salt.
C. The heat can eventually make the teflon pads stick to the swingarm, making the hitch difficulkt to remove and possibly damaging the pads.

A light coat of silicone grease on the teflon pads and the hitch pin can prevent these problems. The hitch has to be removed to change the rear tire, BTW, so it will have to come off periodically anyway. I leave mine on all the time.