Installing 12v ACC Outlet

[kevorama]

I have had a few folks ask me about where and how to install a 12v power outlet or cig lighter to power their Garmin or other GPS, iPhone etc. This came from my post, 'How To Mount any Gizmo/ iPhone/ Garmin'

www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?40427-How-To-Mount-any-Gizmo-iPhone-Garmin (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?40427-How-To-Mount-any-Gizmo-iPhone-Garmin)

There are dozens of ways to install a power outlet. You can strap one on to the handle bars or mount one with a RAM BALL mount, but I like a clean install and this was how I did it.

I used these two items and they aren't cheap, but they are the type of quality that you would want on your Spyder. The power outlet came from www.powerlet.com (http://www.powerlet.com) and the secondary fuse block came from Reggy at www.tricled.com (http://www.tricled.com)

Powerlet has a long proven reputation with motorcycle accessories. Reggy and TricLED has a reputation that's 2nd to none in the Spyder community. The URL's below are linked to the two items that I used.

Powerlet's 12v capped outlet: http://www.powerlet.com/product/panel-mount-cigarette-socket/6

Reggy's TricLED FZ-1 Fuze Block: http://www.tricled.com/TricLed.com/New_Items.html (scroll down to the Fuze Block item)

Although, the Fuze Block is not necessary to do this, you'll probably eventually need it if you plan on modding out your bike, so you might as well do it while you have all of the panels off, because you'll have to do that in the future anyway. It makes any additional lighting or other mods a piece of cake to install at a later date.

This is the complete outlet kit from Powerlet -

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/PowerletSocket_zpsbe6e0d59.jpg

This is the full pic set of Reggy's/TricLED's FZ-1 Fuze Block -

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/FZ-1FuzeBlock_zpsf77892cf.png
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlock2_zpseacf59a0.jpg
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlock1_zps615fb321.jpg

Lets get started! You'll have to remove the right speaker grill, mirrors, upper panels, lower panels, the front panel around the headlights, both service panels (the black ones under the frunk lid) and the interior panel on the right side that gives you access to the manifold (only two screws). Fortunately, all of the other screws are the same size, so keep them in a Tupperware container or something similar. The two screws that hold the interior panel are much longer, so keep those separate.

A few of these pics are a little fuzzy. I had bad lighting and used my iPhone to take the shots, but they are clear enough to understand.

Once you pop off the speaker grill, you'll find that there's a lot of room behind it.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/SpeakerCavitywithtapemeasureResized_zpsb490bf57.jp g

Strip off the ends of your + and - lead wires and route them through, under and around the headlights and front frame work. Ending at the fuse block.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/12gWireinCavityResized_zpsaf51731a.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/WireRUnunderLightsResized_zpsc6102eb4.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/WiresinFuzeBlockResized_zps4bdaa2ef.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlockLocationResized_zps4ec28a4d.jpg

Next, crimp the supplied plug onto the + and - leads coming back from the fuse block or if you opt, a 12G wire with a 10A inline fuse along with the same gauge ground wire. Using the FZ-1, I wired mine into the switched on +12v so that it was only active when the key was turned on. Once you've determined that you did all of the wiring correctly, it's time to put a hole in the speaker grill. This particular model calls for a 1 1/8" hole. I used a corresponding hole saw to do the job. Take care where you put this hole. If you are too close to the tabs it won't click back in. Look at the front and back of the grill very closely to make sure that you don't get it too close to one of the attaching female tab locations. I got it by a mm and I got lucky. I should have paid more attention to the hole location by looking at the back of the grill.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/LighterpluggedinResized_zpsb038f962.jpg

Next, test that it works before you start to button everything back up.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/TestingLighterResized_zps9df76a3e.jpg

Cool, we have a blue light that shows that it's charging the Garmin.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/ItworksResized_zps19ce105f.jpg

With the Garmin plugged in, we're good! Notice the shameless plug that I put in for Len's new shop? LOL!

Having done all of that, this is the finished product. A nice and clean install that looks factory. It took me about 6 hours to do all of this, but it also included my taking the Green Filter out and cleaning and reinstalling it.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FinishedResized_zpsf820bc16.jpg

If you have any questions, please msg me and I'll do my best to help you.
See you at SpyderFest this year!

Kevin

[mrfats]

Just another nice looking mod by Kevin!

[NancysToy]

Thanks, Kevin. I wanted to make a how-to when I did my last ones, but my pictures weren't a tenth as good as yours. A how-to is only as good as the pictures. Nice job!

[SllimG]

Very well done tutorial! Not trying to hi-jack your thread, but if someone wants to put one on an RSS, this is where I put mine:

61503


I used the BRP acc. plug ($29.99) and wired into the "optional fog light" fuse, since I don't have fog lights. Power stays on with the key off.

[harrypottar]

Great how too, I would love to see a detailed how too of wiring up the fz1 fu box that Reggy sells

harry

[Farmbanker]

Thanks Kevin, this was instructive. I was seriously considering putting a plug in the dash where the fuel gauge is but it appears that most people think that there is not enough room there. However I thought I saw one installed that way. Do you have a perspective on that? What you did looks really nice, will the speaker cover hold up with the pressure of plugging in and pulling the plugs out?:dontknow:

[NancysToy]

Thanks Kevin, this was instructive. I was seriously considering putting a plug in the dash where the fuel gauge is but it appears that most people think that there is not enough room there. However I thought I saw one installed that way. Do you have a perspective on that? What you did looks really nice, will the speaker cover hold up with the pressure of plugging in and pulling the plugs out?:dontknow:

The speaker cover generally stays in place, although I have had mine pop out occasionally when unplugging from the snugger Powerlets. Holding the speaker cover down with a finger will cure it...or put a blob or two od TRV silicone on the opening before reinstalling the grill, if it makes you more comfortable. I doubt the cover would ever pop loose at the corner when removing a cigarette-type plug. The cover willjust release a prong or two...not all 6-8 of them. It isn't going anywhere.

[Farmbanker]

The speaker cover generally stays in place, although I have had mine pop out occasionally when unplugging from the snugger Powerlets. Holding the speaker cover down with a finger will cure it...or put a blob or two od TRV silicone on the opening before reinstalling the grill, if it makes you more comfortable. I doubt the cover would ever pop loose at the corner when removing a cigarette-type plug. The cover willjust release a prong or two...not all 6-8 of them. It isn't going anywhere.

Thanks Scotty. I assume given your extensive experience that your vote would be for this location, that you are very satisfied with it? Just double checking because in about a week I am going to install a new voltmeter, relay and fuse box, the power outlet, some lights, etc and once I start making holes I don't want to look back and see that I made a mistake.;) This install looks nice and clean so I really am leaning towards duplicating what Kevin did here.

[NancysToy]

Thanks Scotty. I assume given your extensive experience that your vote would be for this location, that you are very satisfied with it? Just double checking because in about a week I am going to install a new voltmeter, relay and fuse box, the power outlet, some lights, etc and once I start making holes I don't want to look back and see that I made a mistake.;) This install looks nice and clean so I really am leaning towards duplicating what Kevin did here.
I like that location. Easy to reach with the wires, lots of clearance, and convenient to use. I had my outlets in the dash on my 2010, and I would never do that again. If you are still uneasy, the speaker grills are cheap if you change your mind later. Put some masking tape on the grill before you drill, mark it, then center punch it to keep the drill from wandering. I installed mine 1" down and 1" out from center, on the flat part of the grill. I'd recommend removing the grills before drilling. Clean-up is easier that way, and there is no chance of drilling through the speaker...just don't lay the grill on the glovebox to drill it. :roflblack:

[M109Dreamer]

Great write up. Has anyone done a how-to on installing the FZ-1 fuse block? I have one on my bike (m109) and I an very interested in where everyone is putting the fuze block and getting the main power and ground locations to the fuse panel. Before I attempt this on the wifes RT-S.

[Chupaca]

Great presentation and excellent work. But on my RS 2012 they have the connection including the rubber boot zip tied under the fuse box. All I did was drill for the outlet in the frunk plug it in put in the fuse and run the cable to the bars.:ohyea:

[kevorama]

Great write up. Has anyone done a how-to on installing the FZ-1 fuse block? I have one on my bike (m109) and I an very interested in where everyone is putting the fuze block and getting the main power and ground locations to the fuse panel. Before I attempt this on the wifes RT-S.

I placed my FZ-1 under the service panel opposite of the reservoir. The right side, looking at it from the front. I used velcro tape to hold it in place and there's plenty of room. I have a Steibel air horn in there as well and Reggy's remote receiver should fit in there as well. You will have to pull the front panel around the headlights in order to reach that area. No need to pull the frunk.

[M109Dreamer]

I place my FZ-1 under the service panel opposite of the reservoir. The right side, looking at it from the front. I used velcro tape to hold it in place and there's plenty of room. I have a Steibel air horn in there as well and Reggy's remote receiver should fit in there as well. You will have to pull the front panel around the headlights in order to reach that area. No need to pull the frunk.

Awesome, thanks. Thats what I was wanting to know. I have a Stebel horn to install and was wondering if the FZ-1 would fit in there as well.

[Farmbanker]

I like that location. Easy to reach with the wires, lots of clearance, and convenient to use. I had my outlets in the dash on my 2010, and I would never do that again. If you are still uneasy, the speaker grills are cheap if you change your mind later. Put some masking tape on the grill before you drill, mark it, then center punch it to keep the drill from wandering. I installed mine 1" down and 1" out from center, on the flat part of the grill. I'd recommend removing the grills before drilling. Clean-up is easier that way, and there is no chance of drilling through the speaker...just don't lay the grill on the glovebox to drill it. :roflblack:

Thanks a bunch. I will give it a try and hopefully will have pictures to show when I am done.

[kevorama]

Awesome, thanks. Thats what I was wanting to know. I have a Stebel horn to install and was wondering if the FZ-1 would fit in there as well.

If you're doing the air horn as well, install it first. I used Velcro, once again, for that. Make sure that you get it as far down as you can. With a little finagling it'll fit nicely and still give you room for the FZ-1. Use the relay that comes with the horn. Don't use your Spyder relay. Also, the horn draws around 18A's if I remember right. The FZ-1 is only designed to run a max of 10A's per circuit and there are 6 banks. I did a 'How To' on the Stebel install. Run a lead with a 30A inline fuse right at the + terminal. I pig tailed off of that (under the service panel) and ran one to the horn relay and the other to the 'Always On' input on the FZ-1. For the 'Switched On +12v' I tapped into the + lead by the wheel for the fender light. Also, when grounding your horn, make sure that there's no paint on the frame or surface you are grounding to.
I hope that helps.

[jerpinoy]

Nice, you can also add wire loom to protect wire from chapping and cause electrical fire.

[lookerjdc]

Great How To!!! Thanks

[kevorama]

Thanks, to you all. I learned a ton when I started my mods, from this site. I try to share what I did right and what I did wrong, in order to help those that are wanting to do these mods on their own.

Please feel free to contact me. There's a good chance that I won't be able to answer your questions adequately, but I'll try... and then I'll send you to Scotty ")

[NitroCircus Spyder]

I have had a few folks ask me about where and how to install a 12v power outlet or cig lighter to power their Garmin or other GPS, iPhone etc. This came from my post, 'How To Mount any Gizmo/ iPhone/ Garmin'

www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?40427-How-To-Mount-any-Gizmo-iPhone-Garmin (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?40427-How-To-Mount-any-Gizmo-iPhone-Garmin)

There are dozens of ways to install a power outlet. You can strap one on to the handle bars or mount one with a RAM BALL mount, but I like a clean install and this was how I did it.

I used these two items and they aren't cheap, but they are the type of quality that you would want on your Spyder. The power outlet came from www.powerlet.com (http://www.powerlet.com) and the secondary fuse block came from Reggy at www.tricled.com (http://www.tricled.com)

Powerlet has a long proven reputation with motorcycle accessories. Reggy and TricLED has a reputation that's 2nd to none in the Spyder community. The URL's below are linked to the two items that I used.

Powerlet's 12v capped outlet: http://www.powerlet.com/product/panel-mount-cigarette-socket/6

Reggy's TricLED FZ-1 Fuze Block: http://www.tricled.com/TricLed.com/New_Items.html (scroll down to the Fuze Block item)

Although, the Fuze Block is not necessary to do this, you'll probably eventually need it if you plan on modding out your bike, so you might as well do it while you have all of the panels off, because you'll have to do that in the future anyway. It makes any additional lighting or other mods a piece of cake to install at a later date.

This is the complete outlet kit from Powerlet -

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/PowerletSocket_zpsbe6e0d59.jpg

This is the full pic set of Reggy's/TricLED's FZ-1 Fuze Block -

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/FZ-1FuzeBlock_zpsf77892cf.png
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlock2_zpseacf59a0.jpg
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlock1_zps615fb321.jpg

Lets get started! You'll have to remove the right speaker grill, mirrors, upper panels, lower panels, the front panel around the headlights, both service panels (the black ones under the frunk lid) and the interior panel on the right side that gives you access to the manifold (only two screws). Fortunately, all of the other screws are the same size, so keep them in a Tupperware container or something similar. The two screws that hold the interior panel are much longer, so keep those separate.

A few of these pics are a little fuzzy. I had bad lighting and used my iPhone to take the shots, but they are clear enough to understand.

Once you pop off the speaker grill, you'll find that there's a lot of room behind it.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/SpeakerCavitywithtapemeasureResized_zpsb490bf57.jp g

Strip off the ends of your + and - lead wires and route them through, under and around the headlights and front frame work. Ending at the fuse block.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/12gWireinCavityResized_zpsaf51731a.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/WireRUnunderLightsResized_zpsc6102eb4.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/WiresinFuzeBlockResized_zps4bdaa2ef.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlockLocationResized_zps4ec28a4d.jpg

Next, crimp the supplied plug onto the + and - leads coming back from the fuse block or if you opt, a 12G wire with a 10A inline fuse along with the same gauge ground wire. Using the FZ-1, I wired mine into the switched on +12v so that it was only active when the key was turned on. Once you've determined that you did all of the wiring correctly, it's time to put a hole in the speaker grill. This particular model calls for a 1 1/8" hole. I used a corresponding hole saw to do the job. Take care where you put this hole. If you are too close to the tabs it won't click back in. Look at the front and back of the grill very closely to make sure that you don't get it too close to one of the attaching female tab locations. I got it by a mm and I got lucky. I should have paid more attention to the hole location by looking at the back of the grill.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/LighterpluggedinResized_zpsb038f962.jpg

Next, test that it works before you start to button everything back up.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/TestingLighterResized_zps9df76a3e.jpg

Cool, we have a blue light that shows that it's charging the Garmin.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/ItworksResized_zps19ce105f.jpg

With the Garmin plugged in, we're good! Notice the shameless plug that I put in for Len's new shop? LOL!

Having done all of that, this is the finished product. A nice and clean install that looks factory. It took me about 6 hours to do all of this, but it also included my taking the Green Filter out and cleaning and reinstalling it.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FinishedResized_zpsf820bc16.jpg

If you have any questions, please msg me and I'll do my best to help you.
See you at SpyderFest this year!

Kevin



Hi Kevin, You did an awesome job doing all of your installs and I sure wish you lived here in Austin, because you would become my mechanic! :2thumbs: I paid $1100 dollars to have my installs done, only to have them done wrong! When removing the tupperware, we found wires that were just hanging and not attached? Very frustrating! :banghead: :yikes: :mad:

[Araña805]

Very nicely done and beautifully explained... :clap::clap::clap: Thanks



I have had a few folks ask me about where and how to install a 12v power outlet or cig lighter to power their Garmin or other GPS, iPhone etc. This came from my post, 'How To Mount any Gizmo/ iPhone/ Garmin'

www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?40427-How-To-Mount-any-Gizmo-iPhone-Garmin (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?40427-How-To-Mount-any-Gizmo-iPhone-Garmin)

There are dozens of ways to install a power outlet. You can strap one on to the handle bars or mount one with a RAM BALL mount, but I like a clean install and this was how I did it.

I used these two items and they aren't cheap, but they are the type of quality that you would want on your Spyder. The power outlet came from www.powerlet.com (http://www.powerlet.com) and the secondary fuse block came from Reggy at www.tricled.com (http://www.tricled.com)

Powerlet has a long proven reputation with motorcycle accessories. Reggy and TricLED has a reputation that's 2nd to none in the Spyder community. The URL's below are linked to the two items that I used.

Powerlet's 12v capped outlet: http://www.powerlet.com/product/panel-mount-cigarette-socket/6

Reggy's TricLED FZ-1 Fuze Block: http://www.tricled.com/TricLed.com/New_Items.html (scroll down to the Fuze Block item)

Although, the Fuze Block is not necessary to do this, you'll probably eventually need it if you plan on modding out your bike, so you might as well do it while you have all of the panels off, because you'll have to do that in the future anyway. It makes any additional lighting or other mods a piece of cake to install at a later date.

This is the complete outlet kit from Powerlet -

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/PowerletSocket_zpsbe6e0d59.jpg

This is the full pic set of Reggy's/TricLED's FZ-1 Fuze Block -

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/FZ-1FuzeBlock_zpsf77892cf.png
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlock2_zpseacf59a0.jpg
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlock1_zps615fb321.jpg

Lets get started! You'll have to remove the right speaker grill, mirrors, upper panels, lower panels, the front panel around the headlights, both service panels (the black ones under the frunk lid) and the interior panel on the right side that gives you access to the manifold (only two screws). Fortunately, all of the other screws are the same size, so keep them in a Tupperware container or something similar. The two screws that hold the interior panel are much longer, so keep those separate.

A few of these pics are a little fuzzy. I had bad lighting and used my iPhone to take the shots, but they are clear enough to understand.

Once you pop off the speaker grill, you'll find that there's a lot of room behind it.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/SpeakerCavitywithtapemeasureResized_zpsb490bf57.jp g

Strip off the ends of your + and - lead wires and route them through, under and around the headlights and front frame work. Ending at the fuse block.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/12gWireinCavityResized_zpsaf51731a.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/WireRUnunderLightsResized_zpsc6102eb4.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/WiresinFuzeBlockResized_zps4bdaa2ef.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FuzeBlockLocationResized_zps4ec28a4d.jpg

Next, crimp the supplied plug onto the + and - leads coming back from the fuse block or if you opt, a 12G wire with a 10A inline fuse along with the same gauge ground wire. Using the FZ-1, I wired mine into the switched on +12v so that it was only active when the key was turned on. Once you've determined that you did all of the wiring correctly, it's time to put a hole in the speaker grill. This particular model calls for a 1 1/8" hole. I used a corresponding hole saw to do the job. Take care where you put this hole. If you are too close to the tabs it won't click back in. Look at the front and back of the grill very closely to make sure that you don't get it too close to one of the attaching female tab locations. I got it by a mm and I got lucky. I should have paid more attention to the hole location by looking at the back of the grill.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/LighterpluggedinResized_zpsb038f962.jpg

Next, test that it works before you start to button everything back up.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/TestingLighterResized_zps9df76a3e.jpg

Cool, we have a blue light that shows that it's charging the Garmin.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/ItworksResized_zps19ce105f.jpg

With the Garmin plugged in, we're good! Notice the shameless plug that I put in for Len's new shop? LOL!

Having done all of that, this is the finished product. A nice and clean install that looks factory. It took me about 6 hours to do all of this, but it also included my taking the Green Filter out and cleaning and reinstalling it.

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/12v%20acc%20lighter/FinishedResized_zpsf820bc16.jpg

If you have any questions, please msg me and I'll do my best to help you.
See you at SpyderFest this year!

Kevin

[kevorama]

Thank you, kind sir ")

[Rotaxer]

Is there any unused connectors on a 2010 RT (12v with key off) close to either speaker grill that I could tap into for my soon to be install 12v outlet? Don't really want to run all the way back to the battery.

[kevorama]

Is there any unused connectors on a 2010 RT (12v with key off) close to either speaker grill that I could tap into for my soon to be install 12v outlet? Don't really want to run all the way back to the battery.

Spyder Envy, Scotty could answer this for sure, correctly. I'll give it a go, though. If you want to disconnect your fuel gauge and remove it, people have put them there. There are other places that you could possibly tap into, but getting to them makes running a set of wires from the battery with an inline fuse look easy. It's not difficult to remove the tupperware and run two 12g wires through cheap plastic conduit, but it is a little time consuming. The up side is that if you fry something, it's only the fuse on the + line and can be easily replaced without taking anything off. Just lift the seat, pull the waterproof cap off and replace the fuse. Tapping into the wrong lines and firing up the lighter could cause you a world of hurt that wouldn't be covered by any warranty.

In the photo below you can see the inline fuse (just below the big + symbol and tucked into that recess) and the condiut that it runs through. Just attach the red to the + and the black to any bolt that is grounded to the frame. Just don't try to undo the one that is on the other side that looks like it's from the battery. It is, but you'll never get it back on without some serious headaches.



http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t432/kevorama1/Auto3HTML_zps82cc3c51.jpg

[Rotaxer]

Thanks, I am quite comfortable removing the tupperware and doing it that way, but was hoping there was a harness for an accessory tucked away up under the dash that was not in use.

[NancysToy]

Thanks, I am quite comfortable removing the tupperware and doing it that way, but was hoping there was a harness for an accessory tucked away up under the dash that was not in use.

No such luck, but there is an unswitched 10 A accessory harness and connector beneath the front trunk on the left side. You may be able to see it tied near the left shock mount on a 2010. Same circuit as the rear trunk outlet.

[Rotaxer]

No such luck, but there is an unswitched 10 A accessory harness and connector beneath the front trunk on the left side. You may be able to see it tied near the left shock mount on a 2010. Same circuit as the rear trunk outlet.

That may work I will see if I can get it there easier than from the battery. Thanks Scotty

[NancysToy]

Battery access isn't that tough, just remove the left side mirror, deflector, and body panels.

[KAPike]

I installed my marine grade USB dual charging socket in the speaker grill also.

Blue Sea Systems
Dual USB Charger Socket
Input 12V DC
Output: 5V / 2.1A

65855 65856

Here's where I ordered mine from: http://www.sierraexpeditions.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8670

[Rotaxer]

Hey, I like that! I may put one of those in the other speaker.

[Elembytes]

I am lousy when it comes to wiring things up in fear of goofing it up and tripping a computer.

Is anyone aware of someone doing intalls like this, during Spyderfest?

How long of a job is it? (Time wise)

Thanks!
:sour: