Need help with a headlight problem

[Howard1941]

Both headlights are out on my '08 GS. I checked the headlight relay by switching it out with another relay of the same type and number. Relay was not the problem. I also checked the 30 Amp fuse under the seat, The fuse is OK. Lastly, I removed one of the headlights (after a few choice words and a lot of aggravation). The headlight was not burned out. Does anyone have any other idea of what else I may need to look at that could cause both lights to be out? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Until I get this fixed I will only be riding in daylight! Thanks.

[ARtraveler]

:welcome: More will come on with possible solutions to your problem. Electrics are not my area of expertise though. It does sound like a electrical relay though. Stay tuned for a solution. :thumbup:

[docdoru]

Are they HID's?

[NancysToy]

That's all there is in the circuit, so I would suspect either a relay or fuse that appers good but is not, or a connector/connection that is corroded or loose. The problem is most commonly a loose relay. If it does not fit tightly, you can try gently bending the tabs a tiny bit. The high beam shutter is the only thing that works through switches. Time to get out a multimeter and start testing the fuse and relay and tracing the wires back.

[Howard1941]

I am not really skilled in troubleshooting electrical problems. I know just enough to be be dangerous. I removed the 30 AMP fuse under the seat and placed a jumper wire in its place. It definitely isn't the fuse. I swapped the three relays in the front fuse box around (all three are the same). They certainly seem to be tight enough. The bulb could be the culprit, but, I removed one of them and the filament appears to be intact. I really don't suspect a problem with the bulbs since both lights went out at the same time. I don't have any visible corrosion anywhere. How much tupperware do I need to remove to trace all of the wiring for the headlights? That might get a little messy.

I appreciate all suggestions and I'm willing to try anything that is suggested. I am trying to avoid the dreaded trip to the dealership.

[AgentK]

Just a SWAG, but it may be the dimmer switch. Do they work on high beam or no. You may want to check power through that switch. :sour:

[Bob Denman]

Question: Do you have any access to a magnifying glass? The filaments can be toast, yet it's sometimes hard to see that with a casual glance...
Beyond that... :dontknow: I'd go with Scotty's lead! :bowdown:
Good Luck and please let us know how this one turns out! :thumbup:


And we all hope that we've been able to "Shed some Light" on this topic for you! :roflblack::roflblack::roflblack::roflblack:

[NancysToy]

Just a SWAG, but it may be the dimmer switch. Do they work on high beam or no. You may want to check power through that switch. :sour:
The power doesn't go through the dimmer switch on the Spyder...all the switch does is move the high beam shutter.

[NancysToy]

I am not really skilled in troubleshooting electrical problems. I know just enough to be be dangerous. I removed the 30 AMP fuse under the seat and placed a jumper wire in its place. It definitely isn't the fuse. I swapped the three relays in the front fuse box around (all three are the same). They certainly seem to be tight enough. The bulb could be the culprit, but, I removed one of them and the filament appears to be intact. I really don't suspect a problem with the bulbs since both lights went out at the same time. I don't have any visible corrosion anywhere. How much tupperware do I need to remove to trace all of the wiring for the headlights? That might get a little messy.

I appreciate all suggestions and I'm willing to try anything that is suggested. I am trying to avoid the dreaded trip to the dealership.
Cheap way out right now is to buy a replacement bulb and try it out. At your level of expertise and experience, I think maybe you have gone as far as you can, other than that, without the help of someone who has good electrical troubleshooting skills and some test equipment...or taking the Spyder to a dealer. As was mentioned...if you have HIDs, you could have other issues or connection problems. I hope you took out the jumper wire. That is a good way to burn a vehicle down if it has electrical problems that blew a fuse in the first place.

[jerpinoy]

If you have the bulbs out already then you can put a multimeter and read, if you have 12 volts then you are sure the bulbs are bad. Keep on checking down the line.

[Howard1941]

I appreciate all of the input I have received today. I'll take the bulb out again and test for voltage. And yes, I only used the jumper for a couple of seconds to rule out a fuse problem.

I'll post my findings on the bulb tomorrow.

Ride Safe & Often!

[spyryder]

Also try the headlight override switch on the front of the right handgrip. It should work the lights with the ignition off.

[Howard1941]

I pulled both headlight bulbs out of the housings again this morning, and after starting the engine, I used the old flick the bulb with your fingers trick. Guess what, both bulbs flickered and were receiving power. Just as Bob had stated in an earlier response, even if the filament appears to be intact, it might not be. I would never have thought that both bulbs would burn out at the same time. LESSON LEARNED!

Thanks to everyone who provided suggestions.

Ride Safe & Often!

[Bob Denman]

Ouch!
Glad that I could help, but I'm sorry that I had to go and be right this time... :shocked:
When you said that they both went at once, I was second guessing that advice...
I'm a very low-vision kind of guy... 20/360 in my left peeper...
I'm just a bit sensitive to things that might be tougher to see at times.

[Howard1941]

I wanted to add something here that might be helpful to others. I have read on a couple of threads on just how difficult it is to remove the bulb holder from the housing. The first time I tried I gave up in disgust after about fifteen minutes. I was attempting to turn the holder fully in a counter-clockwise direction. The second time I tried it, I held the holder with one of those round rubber disk that you use to remove a jar lid. It helped immensely. I discovered that you can only turn it approximately 1/4 inch. I pushed in slightly while turning and then pulled it straight out of the housing. Replacing was just as easy as taking it out, however, I ended up with a few scratches on my hand.

I bought a pair of the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra's from Advance Auto Parts. I wanted the super bright lights even though they have a much shorter life. The were priced at $43.99, but, there is currently a $14.00 rebate that you can request by mail or on-line. The final cost was only $29.99 plus tax for the pair.

[arntufun]

I went to go for a ride this morning and my passenger side (right) bulb was out. :banghead: I wish I knew about that rebate earlier, I would have purchased the ultra's instead of the regular bulb. :thumbup:

[pro10is]

Everyone, and I mean everyone should own and learn to use a multimeter. They aren't expensive and they're actually very easy to use for simple tasks. If you can operate a Spyder you can operate a multimeter. It's such a useful tool for any home owner or vehicle owner that it should be considered a must have item like a screwdriver or a drill. You can get a decent digital multimeter for well under $100 at Sears, Radio Shack, Walmart, any auto store, or online. Go out and buy one, take a half hour to read the manual, play with it a little to learn how to use its basic functions, and for the rest of your life you'll be able to easily deal with many electrical problems that would have baffeled you before.

If you want a recommendation get the Extech 330 (http://www.amazon.com/Extech-EX330-Autoranging-Multimeter-Thermometer/dp/B000EX0AE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354570900&sr=8-1&keywords=extech+330). It's only about $60 and will serve you well for years.
58101

Don't buy a cheapo multimeter however, they're junk.

Seriously, everyone should own and use one. nojoke