turn signals

[major911]

Got home from a ride tonight and noticed that all my turn signal lights were on (front and rear) like running lights. I thought this odd so I decided to test them out. when a turn signal or hazard switch is activated the indicator on the dash flashes rapidly but the actual light just stays on. checked all the bulbs, none burnt out fuses all look good. Checked the relays they are all snug. I'm stumped. usually in a car this indicates a burned out bulb but all seem to be working. Couldn't find anything in the owners manual to help so I am appealing to the SL expert team:popcorn:

[coz]

have you done any lighting mods lately ?:popcorn: or any other mods that might have disturbed some wiring ?

[pro10is]

Disconnect them one by one to see if you can narrow down the problem to one circuit.

Are all the bulbs stock or did you or anyone else change them to LED's?

Do you have the ESI Double Play or Triple Play mods installed?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I believe He recently put Risers on and said He had difficulty finding enough slack ......could this be connected or dis-connected/ pinched something ?????.....Mike

[the nicko]

can use this to see alarm in the spyder
With ignition switch on (or engine running) press MODE button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display.
Press and hold MODE button while pushing the "flash high beams" button five times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed. This can be looked up in the shop manual (available on CD) or you can ask on SpyderLovers and someone will look it up for you.
If there is more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.
I believe this procedure is in your manual.


check fuse box , batteri cable ground cable daze cable , cable to led light on fender

[major911]

I believe He recently put Risers on and said He had difficulty finding enough slack ......could this be connected or dis-connected/ pinched something ?????.....Mike

They worked fine afterthe riser install. This is somethinmg new.

[major911]

have you done any lighting mods lately ?:popcorn: or any other mods that might have disturbed some wiring ?

I put in the LED fender tips didn't really notice any thing different until last night.

[major911]

Disconnect them one by one to see if you can narrow down the problem to one circuit.

Are all the bulbs stock or did you or anyone else change them to LED's?

Do you have the ESI Double Play or Triple Play mods installed?

ok I took the LED fender tips out today and replaced them with the original bulbs. When I first turned the key on the turn signals in the rear were off like they should be. I tried the left signal and it worked fine. Tried the right and it stuttered a couple of times then quick blinking and went to constant on. rapid blinking indicator on dash. after a couple more tries now neither side works stays lit all the way around and lights don't flash. I can't think of anything else. retraced wiring harness from the riser install and all wires and plugs are secure with ample slack rechecked battery connections, fuses and relays. all intact. Gonna try that code sequence that someone else mentioned to see if there were any codes thrown.

[major911]

can use this to see alarm in the spyder
With ignition switch on (or engine running) press MODE button repeatedly until "engine hours" (total hours) shows on display.
Press and hold MODE button while pushing the "flash high beams" button five times within 2 seconds.
If there are no active faults "No Active Fault Code" will be displayed.
If there is an active fault, an alphanumeric code will be displayed. This can be looked up in the shop manual (available on CD) or you can ask on SpyderLovers and someone will look it up for you.
If there is more than one active code, you may press MODE to cycle through them.
I believe this procedure is in your manual.


check fuse box , batteri cable ground cable daze cable , cable to led light on fender

Tried this procedure and it doesn't work. Looked through the owners manual and there is nothing like this step in there either.

[NancysToy]

You bought this used, didn't you? Are you absolutely sure there is not a TIPS (front clearance and/or mudflap lights blink with turn signals), Double Play (front turn signals double as running lights), Triple Play (rear brake lights also function as turn signals and rear turns function as brake lights), brake flasher (brakelights blink several times before coming on solid), or LED replacement bulbs installed in turn signals? If everything is stock, the Spyder was not washed to get water in the turn switch, and there are no lighting or wiring mods, you may need the cluster reflashed or need a new one. There is no turn signal flasher on the Spyder, the signals are controlled through the cluster. In troubleshooting, other than looking for accessory modules wired in, I'd remove all turn bulbs and try again, replacing them one at a time. It still sounds like you have a lighting mod, though, that is the only way the turn signals and clearance lights would be connected, so your bulb mod affected the signals. Could be coincidence, but I doubt it.

[major911]

You bought this used, didn't you? Are you absolutely sure there is not a TIPS (front clearance and/or mudflap lights blink with turn signals), Double Play (front turn signals double as running lights), Triple Play (rear brake lights also function as turn signals and rear turns function as brake lights), brake flasher (brakelights blink several times before coming on solid), or LED replacement bulbs installed in turn signals? If everything is stock, the Spyder was not washed to get water in the turn switch, and there are no lighting or wiring mods, you may need the cluster reflashed or need a new one. There is no turn signal flasher on the Spyder, the signals are controlled through the cluster. In troubleshooting, other than looking for accessory modules wired in, I'd remove all turn bulbs and try again, replacing them one at a time. It still sounds like you have a lighting mod, though, that is the only way the turn signals and clearance lights would be connected, so your bulb mod affected the signals. Could be coincidence, but I doubt it.

I did buy it used. I have gone over the spyder with a fine tooth comb. All stock lighting, no wiring unaccounted for. All incandesent bulbs. The only change was the LED fender tip bulbs that I put in a couple of weeks ago. That was the first thing I removed today when I began this troubleshooting mission. now during my riser install I had the dash cluster in and out several times and the first removal was a bit traumatic because I couldn't figure out how it came out. I actually cracked the lens on the front during removal. After that I learned how to do it and didn't have anymore trouble. when all mods were done everything worked fine. I did pre ride inspections and tested all lighting. so I know that this problem just surfaced yesterday and the only thing I did yesterday before riding was to install a new windshield.


ps. I have washed the spyder several times. I do try to be careful with water around the dash and I always use forced air dryer on it afterwards. Not sure if that explains anything...

[NancysToy]

The cracked cluster lens and washing the Spyder doesn't sound like a good combination. I think it would be best for you to leave this one up to a good dealer...and bring your checkbook.

[major911]

The cracked cluster lens and washing the Spyder doesn't sound like a good combination. I think it would be best for you to leave this one up to a good dealer...and bring your checkbook.

That leaves me with a rather uneasy feeling...LOL but I appreciate your opinion and candor. I'll seek out a reputable and hopefully charitable dealer Thanks Scotty!

[major911]

The cracked cluster lens and washing the Spyder doesn't sound like a good combination. I think it would be best for you to leave this one up to a good dealer...and bring your checkbook.

I guess the next thread I need to research is the best way to wash the spyder. Sounds like I'm doing it wrong.:banghead:

[coz]

is there any moisture inside your cluster lense ? maybe check to see that the harness is snapped on to it completely.:popcorn:

[NancysToy]

is there any moisture inside your cluster lense ? maybe check to see that the harness is snapped on to it completely.:popcorn:
Or that there is not water or corrosion in the connector.

[major911]

is there any moisture inside your cluster lense ? maybe check to see that the harness is snapped on to it completely.:popcorn:

I pulled the cluster and checked it thoroughly, no moisture. I unplugged and replugged the harness. No change.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I pulled the cluster and checked it thoroughly, no moisture. I unplugged and replugged the harness. No change.

Cracked cluster lens and Water does not sound like a good thing.....JMHO........Mike...............PS good luck

[coz]

check fender tip bulb sockets and wires going to them. i remember someone recently had a problem with a loose wire in a fender tip socket. those sockets, as i recall, are kind of cheesey.:popcorn:matter of fact, when i put led tip bulbs in mine, the right bulb had trouble maintaining contact.

[major911]

check fender tip bulb sockets and wires going to them. i remember someone recently had a problem with a loose wire in a fender tip socket. those sockets, as i recall, are kind of cheesey.:popcorn:matter of fact, when i put led tip bulbs in mine, the right bulb had trouble maintaining contact.

First thing i did was remove the led bulbs from the fender tips and put the original bulbs back in.

[pro10is]

Please let us know the result of disconnecting the turn signal bulbs one by one. That information is needed to help you more. Also, disconnect the instrument cluster cable and then turn on the key and let us know the effect that has on the signal lights. They cannot blink without the cluster attached but I need to know if they light. The way to resolve these types of problems is to narrow it down to the circuit that is causing the issue.

[major911]

Please let us know the result of disconnecting the turn signal bulbs one by one. That information is needed to help you more. Also, disconnect the instrument cluster cable and then turn on the key and let us know the effect that has on the signal lights. They cannot blink without the cluster attached but I need to know if they light. The way to resolve these types of problems is to narrow it down to the circuit that is causing the issue.

i will try this and let you know the results. are the front signals always on like running lights? I've never noticed since i'm usually on the other side of them. I know on my HD the fronts were always on.

[CyncySpyder]

When asked about mods, you said the only electrical was the LED fender tip bulbs, but when I read your signiture line, you have listed that you have:

2011 Alloy Orange/Black RSS SE5, Yoshimura Exhaust, BRP Comfort Seat, Fog Lights, Double Feature Tag Lens, 4.5" Easy Risers, Garmin Zumo 550, Kuryaken Iso Grips, Cal Sci XL Windshield

What is this Double Feature Tag Lens you have & could it possibly be causing any of the issue? :dontknow: Just trying to help :rolleyes:

[major911]

When asked about mods, you said the only electrical was the LED fender tip bulbs, but when I read your signiture line, you have listed that you have:

2011 Alloy Orange/Black RSS SE5, Yoshimura Exhaust, BRP Comfort Seat, Fog Lights, Double Feature Tag Lens, 4.5" Easy Risers, Garmin Zumo 550, Kuryaken Iso Grips, Cal Sci XL Windshield

What is this Double Feature Tag Lens you have & could it possibly be causing any of the issue? :dontknow: Just trying to help :rolleyes:


It's just a lens that replaces the reflector over the tag light on the rear fender. Nothing electrical.

[CyncySpyder]

Tried this procedure and it doesn't work. Looked through the owners manual and there is nothing like this step in there either.

I copied & pasted this from one of Scotty's other posts, here's the directions he gives for pulling up the fault codes on an RS. If it didn't work, as you said, then I'd be lead to believe that you either didn't do it right, or there is in fact something wrong with your cluster & maybe that could be the answer to your problem:dontknow: :opps: Again, just trying to help;) as something should be displayed;)

Turn Ignition key to "ON".
Use "MODE" button to display total hours.
Start engine and run until check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
Press and hold "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).

The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown. If you get no message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence in during the allotted time. Try again.

[major911]

I copied & pasted this from one of Scotty's other posts, here's the directions he gives for pulling up the fault codes on an RS. If it didn't work, as you said, then I'd be lead to believe that you either didn't do it right, or there is in fact something wrong with your cluster & maybe that could be the answer to your problem:dontknow: :opps: Again, just trying to help;) as something should be displayed;)

Turn Ignition key to "ON".
Use "MODE" button to display total hours.
Start engine and run until check engine light (or other fault indication) is displayed.
Press and hold "MODE" button while pushing the "High Beam Flash" button rapidly five times (within 2 seconds).

The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown. If you get no message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence in during the allotted time. Try again.

tried it numerous times, read somewhere that this only works if you catch it right after a fault occurs. I have not received any fault messages on the console so that may explain why I can't get it to display any.

[CyncySpyder]

tried it numerous times, read somewhere that this only works if you catch it right after a fault occurs. I have not received any fault messages on the console so that may explain why I can't get it to display any.

Interesting.... Considering Scotty posted the following with those directions
The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown. If you get no message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence in during the allotted time. Try again that would lead me to believe you have an issue with your cluster or the switch used to flash your high beams then. If I had an RS, I'd try it and see if I at least got the "No Active Fault Code" message to display, then you'd know if you have an actual cluster problem, but I don't, sorry. Maybe someone that does can double check for us to rule this out :dontknow:

[major911]

Interesting.... Considering Scotty posted the following with those directions
The active faults will be displayed or "No Active Fault Code" will be shown. If you get no message, you didn't get the flash beams sequence in during the allotted time. Try again that would lead me to believe you have an issue with your cluster or the switch used to flash your high beams then. If I had an RS, I'd try it and see if I at least got the "No Active Fault Code" message to display, then you'd know if you have an actual cluster problem, but I don't, sorry. Maybe someone that does can double check for us to rule this out :dontknow:

I know, it certainly has me scratching my head. I would have thought that if it were a result of a mod that it would have occured at the time of install. Things have been fine for a week then suddenly after a ride this occurs....puzzling for sure.:gaah:

[NancysToy]

The turn signals, front or rear, are not lit as running lights unless an accessory module has been installed...Double Play for front and Triple Play for rear, as I recall. Even then, I'm not sure the front would be lit. If they are on as running lights, and you do not have a module buried in the bodywork somewhere, you have a short circuit. This could be in the wiring, a connector, or theoretically could also exist in the cluster itself. The fact that the signals work (at least in part) at first, then quit flashing when warmed up, points to an electronic origin...either in an accessory module or the cluster.

Don't be fooled into thinking the computer diagnostics can tell you everything and anything you need to know. This is not something that is typically monitored. Many techs today think the diagnostic computer is a god, but it still can't find things like a bad plug wire, plugged fuel filter, bad valve, or a host other mechanical or electrical ills. Modern vehicles are sophisticated, and need diagnostic systems to tell the tech where they are "feeling bad", but they are also mechanical and electrical, and in those cases a good old-fashioned mechanic is the answer, not a black box.

[major911]

The turn signals, front or rear, are not lit as running lights unless an accessory module has been installed...Double Play for front and Triple Play for rear, as I recall. Even then, I'm not sure the front would be lit. If they are on as running lights, and you do not have a module buried in the bodywork somewhere, you have a short circuit. This could be in the wiring, a connector, or theoretically could also exist in the cluster itself. The fact that the signals work (at least in part) at first, then quit flashing when warmed up, points to an electronic origin...either in an accessory module or the cluster.

Don't be fooled into thinking the computer diagnostics can tell you everything and anything you need to know. This is not something that is typically monitored. Many techs today think the diagnostic computer is a god, but it still can't find things like a bad plug wire, plugged fuel filter, bad valve, or a host other mechanical or electrical ills. Modern vehicles are sophisticated, and need diagnostic systems to tell the tech where they are "feeling bad", but they are also mechanical and electrical, and in those cases a good old-fashioned mechanic is the answer, not a black box.

I've received some great advise from the mebers on here. I will trouble shoot it as far as i can myself so that when I take it to the dealer I can save them some time by not repeating things i have already tried. I'm keping my fingers crossed and hoping I'm not looking at a cluster replacement that sounds like an expensive solution and not likely to be covered under warranty.

[Bob Denman]

Your bike is a 2011; the warranty might still be an option; if it's absolutely necessary! :shocked:

[major911]

Your bike is a 2011; the warranty might still be an option; if it's absolutely necessary! :shocked:

I hope so. Factory warranty is good until may 2013 and I fully plan on getting 3 yr extended warranty before then.

[pro10is]

I've received some great advise from the mebers on here. I will trouble shoot it as far as i can myself so that when I take it to the dealer I can save them some time by not repeating things i have already tried. I'm keping my fingers crossed and hoping I'm not looking at a cluster replacement that sounds like an expensive solution and not likely to be covered under warranty.

The cluster is definitely covered under BRP's warranty. I had the cluster on my BRP boat replaced.

[wyliec]

The cluster is definitely covered under BRP's warranty. I had the cluster on my BRP boat replaced.

I believe, but could be wrong, that the OP said he cracked the (plastic) lens the first time he removed the cluster. So, he may have a hard time getting the cluster covered under warranty, if that is the actual cause of the problem.:dontknow:

[major911]

The cluster is definitely covered under BRP's warranty. I had the cluster on my BRP boat replaced.

Well there was no need in searching any further for the culprit. When I got home today to check things out and troubleshoot some of what you suggested I discovered that not only were the turn signals going crazy but much of the display on the cluster was going on and off with digits missing etc.... pressing the mode and set buttons on the display results in characters blinking in and out. noticed what appeared to be moisture on the inside of the cluster screen but it was apparently soap residue from the last bath I gave the spider which was last weekend. Apparently I did get some water in the cluster from the crack in the screen and there it is.:lecturef_smilie: Dropped it off at the dealer gave them the rundown, they are gonna do a BUDS check and get with BRP and see whats covered. My fate rests in the hands of the dealer and BRP :pray:. I'll keep ya'll posted as the rest of this story unfolds. Thanks for all the support.

[major911]

Well I spoke with my dealership today. They will be replacing the cluster under warranty (whew! dodged the bullet with that one) and they found some type of aftermarket light module under the seat panel that was affecting the turn signals. I was not aware of this and there was no external evidence of any aftermarket lights on the bike. All bulbs were incandecent stock and lenses were stock. Typically if you put like a triple play on you have to change the rear turn signals to red lenses if they are going to stay on as running lights. The lights have functioned as normal since i got the bike until the problem last week. At any rate I'm not going to argue the point since I did buy it used. i simply told them to remove the offending part and make it OEM again. problem solved. Hopefully should get it back by the end of the week.

[NancysToy]

Well I spoke with my dealership today. They will be replacing the cluster under warranty (whew! dodged the bullet with that one) and they found some type of aftermarket light module under the seat panel that was affecting the turn signals. I was not aware of this and there was no external evidence of any aftermarket lights on the bike. All bulbs were incandecent stock and lenses were stock. Typically if you put like a triple play on you have to change the rear turn signals to red lenses if they are going to stay on as running lights. The lights have functioned as normal since i got the bike until the problem last week. At any rate I'm not going to argue the point since I did buy it used. i simply told them to remove the offending part and make it OEM again. problem solved. Hopefully should get it back by the end of the week.
The lights should not have functioned as "normal" with the triple play (or any other module) installed. Either you didn't realize the difference, or the module was defective to begin with...and just got worse. I suspect the cluster was the root of your problems, though. Glad to hear you will be back in business soon.

[major911]

The lights should not have functioned as "normal" with the triple play (or any other module) installed. Either you didn't realize the difference, or the module was defective to begin with...and just got worse. I suspect the cluster was the root of your problems, though. Glad to hear you will be back in business soon.

I don't know that it was a triple play or what type of mod it's a mystery to me since everything did function normally before and there are no obvious hardware changes. Perhaps your right it may have been malfunctioning from the beginning. I perform a walkaround light check before every ride and would have caught any unusual behavior. I asked the tech to save the mod for me so I could examine it.

[NancysToy]

I don't know that it was a triple play or what type of mod it's a mystery to me since everything did function normally before and there are no obvious hardware changes. Perhaps your right it may have been malfunctioning from the beginning. I perform a walkaround light check before every ride and would have caught any unusual behavior. I asked the tech to save the mod for me so I could examine it.
You wouldn't likely have noticed a brake flasher in a walk-around, so that's a possibility. I expect you would have noticed a triple play...and that mod should have had red turn signal bulb replacements.

[major911]

OK here's the latest update. Dealer replaced the cluster (under warranty) advised me on Tue of some type aftermarket module that they weren't sure of was the culprit affecting the turn signals. My response was " I have no idea what this could be, I don't need it, go ahead and remove it and take things back to stock". Call the dealer up today to check on the status and I'm informed that they have been trying to replace this aftermarket relay. I proceed to the dealership and request a face to face with the tech to explain why he is trying to fix or repair the part that I simply asked them to remove. His explanation is that when they removed the module and tried to wire things back directly, the spyder would not start! So rather than take everything apart and trace the wires back to stock his solution is to replace this module and according to him everything will be fine. Now when i brought the bike in it started and ran just fine, my only problem was the turn signals malfunctioning and the intermittent cluster going in and out. I'm no mechanic but it seems to me that removing an aftermarket device should not render the spyder inoperable. I'm beginning to wonder if its actually a stock component thats supposed to be there and the tech doesn't even realize what he's looking at :dontknow: At any rate it's been a week now without my spyder and I'm still not sure when I will get it back.

[CanAmChris]

Can you post a pic of the mystery module? Maybe someone here can tell you what it is. I had kind of the same problem with the turn signals and it was a bad cluster seal. I could see water inside the display when it rained and everything was good after it was replaced. Hope this works out for you.

CAC

[major911]

Can you post a pic of the mystery module? Maybe someone here can tell you what it is. I had kind of the same problem with the turn signals and it was a bad cluster seal. I could see water inside the display when it rained and everything was good after it was replaced. Hope this works out for you.

CAC

unable to take a pic at this point. I experienced the same problem with the cluster. thats why it was replaced. but they claim that the turn signal issues are somehow related to this mystery module. The service rep brought up a product online which he described as being similar to the device and it was a small black resistor that when wired in would supposedly make the turn signals function like running lights and brake lights. I'm familiar with these devices and have had similar on Harley's but usually they are a plug and play type and are typically near the rear of the bike. This device is actually under the dash near the fuse panel according to the tech.

[NancysToy]

unable to take a pic at this point. I experienced the same problem with the cluster. thats why it was replaced. but they claim that the turn signal issues are somehow related to this mystery module. The service rep brought up a product online which he described as being similar to the device and it was a small black resistor that when wired in would supposedly make the turn signals function like running lights and brake lights. I'm familiar with these devices and have had similar on Harley's but usually they are a plug and play type and are typically near the rear of the bike. This device is actually under the dash near the fuse panel according to the tech.

How was it wired in? If it was wired in using Posi-Taps, it should have been able to be disconnected without interrupting the existing wires. If it was plug-n-play, using Deutsch connectors, the OEM connectors would have had to had to be reconnected after the module was unplugged. Failure to do so could conceivably cause starting issues, I suppose. My gut feeling is that the module may have created another problem, like a blown fuse or relay, or that the way it was installed damaged the OEM wiring. It's going to take some wire tracing and additional troubleshooting on the dealer's part. I'd start at the battery and frame grounds, and work my way out.

[major911]

How was it wired in? If it was wired in using Posi-Taps, it should have been able to be disconnected without interrupting the existing wires. If it was plug-n-play, using Deutsch connectors, the OEM connectors would have had to had to be reconnected after the module was unplugged. Failure to do so could conceivably cause starting issues, I supose. My gut feeling is that the module may have created another problem, like a blown fuse or relay, or that the way it was installed damaged the OEM wiring. It's going to take some wire tracing and additional troubleshooting on the dealer's part. I'd start at the battery and frame grounds, and work my way out.

All good questions and suggestions that I will certainly pose to the technician the next time we speak.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK here's the latest update. Dealer replaced the cluster (under warranty) advised me on Tue of some type aftermarket module that they weren't sure of was the culprit affecting the turn signals. My response was " I have no idea what this could be, I don't need it, go ahead and remove it and take things back to stock". Call the dealer up today to check on the status and I'm informed that they have been trying to replace this aftermarket relay. I proceed to the dealership and request a face to face with the tech to explain why he is trying to fix or repair the part that I simply asked them to remove. His explanation is that when they removed the module and tried to wire things back directly, the spyder would not start! So rather than take everything apart and trace the wires back to stock his solution is to replace this module and according to him everything will be fine. Now when i brought the bike in it started and ran just fine, my only problem was the turn signals malfunctioning and the intermittent cluster going in and out. I'm no mechanic but it seems to me that removing an aftermarket device should not render the spyder inoperable. I'm beginning to wonder if its actually a stock component thats supposed to be there and the tech doesn't even realize what he's looking at :dontknow: At any rate it's been a week now without my spyder and I'm still not sure when I will get it back.
Is the original owner....who probably put this stuff on the Spyder ...."DECEASED"....if not try and contact him for some vital statistics.......this may make the problem easier to deal with.........JMHO.....Mike

[CanAmChris]

The resistor thing troubles me. The only reason to add a resistor on a Spyder that I can think of is to switch lights from bulb to LED. I have also installed a module on my Harley to make the turn signals function as combination lights. The resistor involved there is to provide power but shunt it to the light bulb so it does not glow as bright until the turn signal or brake is activated. It's just a guess but I think there were some LED lights on your bike that were taken off before you bought it.

Like BlueKnight said, try and contact who you bought it from and as Scotty said, it might involve a lot of wire tracing.

CAC

[major911]

The resistor thing troubles me. The only reason to add a resistor on a Spyder that I can think of is to switch lights from bulb to LED. I have also installed a module on my Harley to make the turn signals function as combination lights. The resistor involved there is to provide power but shunt it to the light bulb so it does not glow as bright until the turn signal or brake is activated. It's just a guess but I think there were some LED lights on your bike that were taken off before you bought it.

Like BlueKnight said, try and contact who you bought it from and as Scotty said, it might involve a lot of wire tracing.

CAC

I used the term resistor for lack of a better description. It may or may not have been a resistor. You raise a valid point with the LED theory, can't imagine why they would have taken the lights off and left the module but it's conceivable. I bought the spyder from a harley dealership not an individual however, I did contact the salesman today to inquire whether they might be able to contact the previous owner regarding this issue and ask about any modifications. I have yet to get a call back from him.

[plescaille]

ok I took the LED fender tips out today and replaced them with the original bulbs. When I first turned the key on the turn signals in the rear were off like they should be. I tried the left signal and it worked fine. Tried the right and it stuttered a couple of times then quick blinking and went to constant on. rapid blinking indicator on dash. after a couple more tries now neither side works stays lit all the way around and lights don't flash. I can't think of anything else. retraced wiring harness from the riser install and all wires and plugs are secure with ample slack rechecked battery connections, fuses and relays. all intact. Gonna try that code sequence that someone else mentioned to see if there were any codes thrown.


I think you do not have a good ground.

[major911]

Well after a week and a half I finally got the spyder back. Cluster was replaced under warranty, Offending aftermarket mod turned out to be a GPS antitheft device that had gone bad. That was one problematic and well hidden little PIA. All was removed and wiring harness was revamped and back to OEM. Dealer found the belt tension to be a little loose so they tightened it up to spec, replaced a missing muffler spring. Tech even cleaned up my wiring job for the garmin zumo that I had installed Looks all official and professional now. Had the shocks set to 5 all the way around. They even bathed the spyder before giving it back to me. Runs great, shifts much smoother now for some reason and is a little bit quieter (maybe it's just been so long since I heard it). At any rate, life is good again and it wasn't as painful on my wallet as I expected initially. :) Next step this weekend will be to install the green air filter, bajarons oil catch, and hook up the Juice Box.

[CanAmChris]

Well after a week and a half I finally got the spyder back. Cluster was replaced under warranty, Offending aftermarket mod turned out to be a GPS antitheft device that had gone bad. That was one problematic and well hidden little PIA. All was removed and wiring harness was revamped and back to OEM. Dealer found the belt tension to be a little loose so they tightened it up to spec, replaced a missing muffler spring. Tech even cleaned up my wiring job for the garmin zumo that I had installed Looks all official and professional now. Had the shocks set to 5 all the way around. They even bathed the spyder before giving it back to me. Runs great, shifts much smoother now for some reason and is a little bit quieter (maybe it's just been so long since I heard it). At any rate, life is good again and it wasn't as painful on my wallet as I expected initially. :) Next step this weekend will be to install the green air filter, bajarons oil catch, and hook up the Juice Box.

Very glad to hear this. Good luck with the new mods!

CAC