Clutch slipping on RT SE

[Scooter]

I need a little help, I have a 2010 RTSE I guess due to the fact that I have not been shifting at a high RPM my clutches are now slipping between 1st & 2nd gears. The last time this happend my Dealer wouldn't do anything unless my computer flashed (Transmission) which it did and they rebuilt the clutches. It is doing it again, it does not do it all the time, so no sense takeing it to the Dealer. Is there an additive I could use to help with the slipping? :banghead:

[Bob Denman]

And how many miles are on those precious plates??

[boborgera]

May I inquire as to what kind of oil you are using?


I Agree! :popcorn:
:popcorn:

[BajaRon]

May I inquire as to what kind of oil you are using?

Could be a big part of the equasion.... :popcorn:

[Hokiev]

I have had a similar problem with my 2011 LTD. About 4200 miles, started getting what I would describe as a slipping clutch, but have been told that is not what is happening. Does not happen all the time, can't purposefully replicate.
All service done by dealer per schedule. Oil level is fine.

Dealer indicated might not be covered and would have to replicate before they would do anything and since it ATV season might not have it for several weeks.

Have noticed occasionally it will also happen between 2nd & 3rd but mostly notice between 1st and 2nd.
I would describe it as an engine over rev when doing the shifting. Shift the same why since new so it is not something I am doing differently. Shifting between 4000 and 5000 usually.

Any ideas?

[Scooter]

May I inquire as to what kind of oil you are using?

The Dealer used BRP oil, when thay did the service on the :spyder2: the first time it happend. This time I changed the oil and used Amsoil and I am now shifting at 4500 to 5000 RPM and it is still doing it. :banghead:

[docdoru]

... which it did and they rebuilt the clutches. It is doing it again, it does not do it all the time, so no sense takeing it to the Dealer. Is there an additive I could use to help with the slipping? :banghead:


I have had a similar problem with my 2011 LTD. Any ideas?
Once the clutch plates are slipping, in time is going to be worst, not better; the rebuild required: OEM clutch +complete set of shims +technician that knows that the SE vs. SM clutch rebuild is different. Based on 9 clutches experience. :coffee:

[rcturner]

There is another thread in here that talks about a seal involved with the shifting causing this problem. However, don't let the dealer or BRP work you over on this. The shifting is controlled by the computer (BRP responsibility). There are no written requirements for high RPM shift points that you are violating and, high RPMs should not be an issue here as these clutches do not slip like the centrificul clutch. They are either engaged or disengaged. Again, it is controlled by the computer, not the driver.

[millerrdjr]

Did you use AMSOIL 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil ?

[Bob Denman]

Good question... :agree:
Roger,
I'm sure you've heard the saying, "To every carpenter; each problem looks as if it needs a hammer"... ;)

[bluestratos]

Mine was acting like a slipping clutch. The dealer looked at it and said he could not feel it but they had just done the current program update. When I rode home the slipping feeling seemed better. The following day I did an oil change and I no longer have the issues so not sure which but either the program or the oil fixed the problem . By the way I was using Amsoil from Ron and had a bit less than 5000 miles on it when I did the oil change. I have since returned to BRP's blend.

[Scooter]

Did you use AMSOIL 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil ?

The first time I had the problem the dealer was changing the oil, they used BRP oil, it was slipping then. The only time they repaired the clutches is when the transmission flashed on the screen, which I assume registered in the computer. After that the dealer was changing the oil until my service contract ran out, then I started to change the oil useing AMSOIL 10W-40 MOTORCYCLE OIL however the clutches started to slip before I started to change the oil. I was hoping AMSOIL would help, but it's not. Since it doesn't always happen, if I take it to the dealer, like I did the first time, they will not repair it unless it slips for them, so I gues I am SCR..... untill it flashes on the screen again. I only have 19,000 miles on the spyder :banghead::banghead:

[BajaRon]

The first time I had the problem the dealer was changing the oil, they used BRP oil, it was slipping then. The only time they repaired the clutches is when the transmission flashed on the screen, which I assume registered in the computer. After that the dealer was changing the oil until my service contract ran out, then I started to change the oil useing AMSOIL 10W-40 MOTORCYCLE OIL however the clutches started to slip before I started to change the oil. I was hoping AMSOIL would help, but it's not. Since it doesn't always happen, if I take it to the dealer, like I did the first time, they will not repair it unless it slips for them, so I gues I am SCR..... untill it flashes on the screen again. :banghead::banghead:

As long as you are using the correct oil and not lugging the engine, any clutch shippage on an SE is going to be a function of the Spyder, not the rider. Like Doc said, once a clutch starts to slip you're pretty much going to need new components unless the slippage was oil related and you caught it very quickly (which is not the case here).

It could be a valving, solenoid issue, or it could be that they did not replace all of the clutch components on the first repair. They need to at least, change out all the plates and possibly the spring set as well.

It's a shame that you have to fry your clutch before you can get it fixed. That puts a lot of crud into the oil which starts working towards additional, unnecessary issues.

[optimus prime]

Had a shifting problem on my 2012 TRS-SE5. Dealer replaced a part called the soupape solenoid valve Part number 420256562. Has shifted fine ever since.

[optimus prime]

Sorry...I meant RTS SE5

[JJW SpyderRider]

My 2012 RT-S has started to do the same thing. I did not sense this happening before the last updates July 7th. When going from 1st to 2nd it shifts up then for a second it feels like it is at a mid-range RPM between 1st and 2nd. After a second the RPM drops and then remains in third. I let up on the throttle just a little as I shift and it seems to stop the slippage. I shift at 5500 RPM's so I'm not lugging it like it would at 4000 RPM. Need my next oil change, using Amsoil from Ron, and will talk the tech about it.

[retired1]

Scooter;
Judging from your join date and signature, you have a twin to my '10 RTS. I bought mine in March and then in May or June I took it back to the dealer so they could change the rollers in (I think the pressure plate) the transmission per a BRP recall or sevice bulletin. I have 26000 on it now. Did they change yours?

[brodyson]

Might be reaching but check oil again. Mine was slipping between 1st and 2nd. Adding only 8 oz. of oil solved the problem.

[BajaRon]

Might be reaching but check oil again. Mine was slipping between 1st and 2nd. Adding only 8 oz. of oil solved the problem.

You are talking about oil level. Just setting the record straight as not everyone thinks along the same lines.

[Bad Dog6]

As a person that knows something about oil and little about the internal workings of the Spyder, I can assure you that the only way oil will cause clutch plate slippage is if it contains friction modifiers. True motorcycle oils are formulated without friction modifiers for this very reason This has been discussed to death in many oil threads on this website.

If you are using AMSOIL 10 W 40 it holds the highest Motorcycle / wet clutch compatibility rating available. JASO MA/MA2. And ISO-L-EMA2. It is printed on every bottle of oil.


As a side note. The following is my personal opinion and not AMSOIL's. If it doesn't have the above specifications printed on the bottle, it does not go in my motors.


I defer to the experts for other causes of clutch slippage with the Spyder. It will be interesting to see what they find.

[stillriding]

The first time I had the problem the dealer was changing the oil, they used BRP oil, it was slipping then. The only time they repaired the clutches is when the transmission flashed on the screen, which I assume registered in the computer. After that the dealer was changing the oil until my service contract ran out, then I started to change the oil useing AMSOIL 10W-40 MOTORCYCLE OIL however the clutches started to slip before I started to change the oil. I was hoping AMSOIL would help, but it's not. Since it doesn't always happen, if I take it to the dealer, like I did the first time, they will not repair it unless it slips for them, so I gues I am SCR..... untill it flashes on the screen again. I only have 19,000 miles on the spyder :banghead::banghead:

Insist that they contact BRP! I had this problem on my '10 RTS SE5 for over a year, but it wouldn't occur during three rides by three techs at different dealers. No codes were thrown. Last month while at a brand new dealer I mentioned it and the service manager said, "you've had this Spyder for two years and you know your bike. If you say you have a problem...you have a problem. Let me call BRP." BRP had him check some things and, yes, I'm not crazy. At first they thought is was some leakage which was clearly evident, but it turned out to be worse. Clutch plates were warped! Bottom line is it'll be ready to be picked up today after 11 days in the shop. The first attempt at repair was a week in the shop. Had one of the three aforementioned dealers believed me, this work would have been done under my original factory warranty. A lesson here is you can't rely on the damn computer for everything! Many thanks to JohnnyK's Powersports in Lodi, Ohio.

[brodyson]

As a person that knows something about oil and little about the internal workings of the Spyder, I can assure you that the only way oil will cause clutch plate slippage is if it contains friction modifiers. True motorcycle oils are formulated without friction modifiers for this very reason This has been discussed to death in many oil threads on this website.

If you are using AMSOIL 10 W 40 it holds the highest Motorcycle / wet clutch compatibility rating available. JASO MA/MA2. And ISO-L-EMA2. It is printed on every bottle of oil.


As a side note. The following is my personal opinion and not AMSOIL's. If it doesn't have the above specifications printed on the bottle, it does not go in my motors.


I defer to the experts for other causes of clutch slippage with the Spyder. It will be interesting to see what they find.



My bad. The clutch wasn't slipping. I was getting irregular, delayed shifting between gears. It felt like a clutch problem but turned out that I was low on oil. Adding oil completely eliminated the shifting problems that I was having.