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View Full Version : ABS fault vs Lamont BBQ



exwinger
09-04-2012, 03:43 PM
Got the bikie all shined up and went to start it to pull out of garage. Go thru all procedures , hit starter and nada , just like no battery life. ABS fault code lights up and also VSS. Checked all fuses and relays for tightness , brake lights work. Battery tender shows charged. Wife not home so can't try jumping it just in case. Just had new radio installed which was supposed ( ? ) to take care of discharging the battery .Been two days since last started which was about how long it would last before the new radio install.Called dealer and said to bring it in but no way to get it there.

Really gripes me because I was getting ready to hook trailer and head for Lamonts . Any other ideas other than get to dealer or jump start it ?

NancysToy
09-04-2012, 04:20 PM
Sounds classic for a low/bad battery. Check the battery terminals for tighhtness and cleanliness. The dealer may have left them loose. Also check the rear frame ground (negative jumper terminal under the seat) for tightness. Did you pull up the active fault codes?

Schultzi
09-04-2012, 05:20 PM
Got the bikie all shined up and went to start it to pull out of garage. Go thru all procedures , hit starter and nada , just like no battery life. ABS fault code lights up and also VSS. Checked all fuses and relays for tightness , brake lights work. Battery tender shows charged. Wife not home so can't try jumping it just in case. Just had new radio installed which was supposed ( ? ) to take care of discharging the battery .Been two days since last started which was about how long it would last before the new radio install.Called dealer and said to bring it in but no way to get it there.

Really gripes me because I was getting ready to hook trailer and head for Lamonts . Any other ideas other than get to dealer or jump start it ?

How old is the battery? How many time you jumped the bike? everytime you jump the bike the battery will loose some of the capacity. I had the same problem, jumped the bike to many time and battery will not hold enough charge even battery tester said is fully charged. I replaced battery and every thing is fine. my battery lasted about 13000 miles

hope any info will help you, good luck!

dancogan
09-04-2012, 05:57 PM
How old is the battery? How many time you jumped the bike? everytime you jump the bike the battery will loose some of the capacity. I had the same problem, jumped the bike to many time and battery will not hold enough charge even battery tester said is fully charged. I replaced battery and every thing is fine. my battery lasted about 13000 miles

hope any info will help you, good luck!

IMHO it's not jump starting, per se, that is killing the battery. It's more likely letting it get so run down it can't start the vehicle. Discharging a battery too deeply will definitely shorten its life.

boborgera
09-04-2012, 06:03 PM
''IF'' Your battery is good????, I would think the radio module is bad [again] and causing the drain on the battery.

exwinger
09-04-2012, 06:08 PM
Ended up jumping the bike using lawn tractor. Got it to the dealer and they checked the battery , showed good. For whatever reason they went ahead and pulled the battery and let it set for a bit and checked it again....BAD. Naturally they had no new batteries in stock except for one in a newly sold bike. If I could wait they'd get another one tomorrow.Told them that would be great except I was leaving for Tenn in the morning. They got another battery ( I won't say where ) and installed in mine. Works like a charm now. Now to, see if BRP comes thru on battery warranty. Tech said one thing in my favor is that I've had trouble since day one .


All the polishing beforehand is now for nought. Got in a terrific thunderstorm on way home so now it's a dirty bike I'm riding to Lamonts...LOL


Thanks to all for the input given.


PS......learned it isn't by any means easy to change a battery .

quickster47
09-04-2012, 06:15 PM
Glad your problem is resolved and you're good to go. But the thunderstorm is a real bummer.

Carl

NancysToy
09-04-2012, 09:22 PM
Ended up jumping the bike using lawn tractor. Got it to the dealer and they checked the battery , showed good. For whatever reason they went ahead and pulled the battery and let it set for a bit and checked it again....BAD. Naturally they had no new batteries in stock except for one in a newly sold bike. If I could wait they'd get another one tomorrow.Told them that would be great except I was leaving for Tenn in the morning. They got another battery ( I won't say where ) and installed in mine. Works like a charm now. Now to, see if BRP comes thru on battery warranty. Tech said one thing in my favor is that I've had trouble since day one .


All the polishing beforehand is now for nought. Got in a terrific thunderstorm on way home so now it's a dirty bike I'm riding to Lamonts...LOL


Thanks to all for the input given.


PS......learned it isn't by any means easy to change a battery .
There are several ways a battery can fail...and several tests that need to be performed to check one out. First, they can fail to take an adequate charge. This usually shows up on a battery charger, when the light to indicate fully charged never goes on. On a voltmeter, the battery won't show the 12.7 volts or over that it should, even fresh off the charger. The second type of problem is failure to hold a charge. The battery charges completely, but anywhere from several hours later to overnight, the voltage has dropped to below the 12.7 volt minimum. The third type of failure is a loss of starting capacity. Under heavy load, the battery can't deliver enough amperage to run everything and turn the starter at the same time. To test this a load tester is used. You can do a crude load test with a voltmeter by holding the throttle wide open to prevent starting, and cranking the engine. If the voltage drops below 10.0 volts while cranking, the battery is probably bad.

One of the quickest ways to ruin a battery is to fail to prep it and install it properly. A lot of dealers were guilty of this early in the Spyder's history. The original batteries were shipped dry, and had to have the acid added by the dealer. These had to sit upright for a specific period to allow the glass mats to absorb the acid and fully expand, before being charged fully. Only then could they be laid on their sides to be installed. Many dealers shortcut the process, either not letting the glass mats soak sufficiently, or not charging slowly, overnight as specified. The result was batteries that failed prematurely. I understand that the batteries used now are factory prepped rather than dealer prepped...but they still need proper charging before use. In their haste to get the Spyders prepped quickly for eager customers, this step is still shortcut too often.