Had a few problems today. Any ideas on fixes?

[SpyderAnn01]

I had three very different issues with my RTS-SM today. Any ideas on what may be causing them?

1) I was towing my RT622 trailer and my husband informed me at our first gas stop that I had no running lights or turn signals on the trailer. We checked the fuses but didn't find any bad ones. Brake lights on it work fine.

2) We had only been on the expressway for 15 miles when the engine sputtered twice. It was quick but very noticeable. Reminded me of how it feels when the cruise control kicks off if you hit a big bump. Cruise was not on and I was going 70 ish at the time. Same thing happened on the way home but this time it did it 4 times. I was going 60 or so at the time.

3) Rode 150 miles got to our destination and parked the Spyder for about two hours. Went out to take freinds for a ride and it wouldn't go into reverse. It doesn't feel like the R button depresses at all. Is there a fuse or relay that I should check?

[ThreeWheels]

Have no clue about the trailer wiring.

I had the sputtering problem which was fixed by new spark plug wires (Baja Ron version)

[NorthStar]

Sounds very much like you have a blown fuse (F7 - front trunk) This corresponds to the Reverse Actuator and Trailer Module.

[NancysToy]

1) Normally I would also suspect F7, but that should kill the brakelights, too (?). If the fuse is OK, I suspect a failed trailer module. As Roger said, check the output right at the connector. You might also replace F7, just in case it is faulty.

2) The sputtering could be a few different things. Check for a loose battery connection or rear frame ground (could also affect the trailer and reverse). Beyond that I'd try some Marine Stabil or Seafoam in the gas tank to deal with bad fuel or dirty fuel injectors. If it continues, check plugs, plug wires, and the O2 sensors.

3) Again, if F7 is not blown (or faulty), and the wires to that fuse are intact, you would have to suspect a bad switch, reverse actuator, or cluster. The best way to trouble shoot is via BUDS.

[Bootie]

I had three very different issues with my RTS-SM today. Any ideas on what may be causing them?

1) I was towing my RT622 trailer and my husband informed me at our first gas stop that I had no running lights or turn signals on the trailer. We checked the fuses but didn't find any bad ones. Brake lights on it work fine.

2) We had only been on the expressway for 15 miles when the engine sputtered twice. It was quick but very noticeable. Reminded me of how it feels when the cruise control kicks off if you hit a big bump. Cruise was not on and I was going 70 ish at the time. Same thing happened on the way home but this time it did it 4 times. I was going 60 or so at the time.

3) Rode 150 miles got to our destination and parked the Spyder for about two hours. Went out to take freinds for a ride and it wouldn't go into reverse. It doesn't feel like the R button depresses at all. Is there a fuse or relay that I should check?
I'll tackle the one I am most familiar with first.
1) The inability to go into reverse is most likely a failed actuator (I am on my 2nd one now). According to the dealer these are cheap and fail easily. There is a rubber boot on the actuator which breaks easily. Then dirt gets into the actuator and prevents it from actuating. I'd say you need a new one.
2) Also, if your clutch is dragging, this will prevent you from going into reverse. This was Cowtown's suggestion as to why mine would not work.
3) A third possibility is that your gearshift/gears have not been indexed properly. Your dealer can do this and that might fix the problem.
But in all probability I think you need a new actuator. They don't cost too much and they are easy to install.

Engine sputtering can be caused by your injectors not functioning properly. Are you running a juice box or Power Commander?

Trailer problem sounds to me like the connector was not inserted and locked properly.

my $0.02

[bullant12]

Sounds very much like you have a blown fuse (F7 - front trunk) This corresponds to the Reverse Actuator and Trailer Module.


1) Normally I would also suspect F7, but that should kill the brakelights, too (?). If the fuse is OK, I suspect a failed trailer module. As Roger said, check the output right at the connector. You might also replace F7, just in case it is faulty.

2) The sputtering could be a few different things. Check for a loose battery connection or rear frame ground (could also affect the trailer and reverse). Beyond that I'd try some Marine Stabil or Seafoam in the gas tank to deal with bad fuel or dirty fuel injectors. If it continues, check plugs, plug wires, and the O2 sensors.

3) Again, if F7 is not blown (or faulty), and the wires to that fuse are intact, you would have to suspect a bad switch, reverse actuator, or cluster. The best way to trouble shoot is via BUDS.

:agree: With NorthStar... I am in Destin andon the way here I ran into the same issue with the trailer lights and reverse. Thanks to the Service Manual I found that the issue is a blown fuse (F7 fuse block)... However, every time we add a new fuse (Spyder off) it blows off right away. With a Voltimeter, I suspect there is a short somewhere between the relay fuse (R1) and the front fuse box. I am trying to find out if there is a decent dealer in the area and see if they can help me out without having to leave the Spyder overnight or longer.

I spoke to Lamont yesterday about thesituation and he mentioned some cases of a trailer hookup module going bad on Spyders....

Spyderann... Keep us posted.:popcorn:

[NorthStar]

My trailer brake lights still work with a blown F7 fuse, even though I have no running lights or signal lights on the trailer. I definitely have a short in my trailer harness wires because I can see the bare wires that the rear tire caused.

[NancysToy]

My trailer brake lights still work with a blown F7 fuse, even though I have no running lights or signal lights on the trailer. I definitely have a short in my trailer harness wires because I can see the bare wires that the rear tire caused.
Thanks for verifying that...I wondered if they engineered it that way for safety reasons.

Most common causes of blowing fuse F7 are shorted trailer module wires (improperly routed) and trailer module failures.

[yfx4]

Use your new power probe 3 to check the grounds too. Intermittent ground disturbances can mess with lots of stuff.

[SpyderAnn01]

thanks everyone for the info. Well we checked #7 fuse and it was blown. But when we replaced it didn't fix reverse. Don't know about the trailer lights as the trailer is in a different garage and I don't have time right now to check that. I'll do it later today and let you know if the lights on the trailer works. If not I'm hoping my dealer can get me in soon. I have an appoointment in July for warranty work but I hope they can squeeze me in for this.

[NancysToy]

Make sure the fuse didn't immediately blow again. A bad trailer module, shorted module wire, or shorted actuator can blow it immediately, making reverse fail again ASAP.

[SpyderAnn01]

Scotty, we replaced the fuse and I tried reverse and it didn't work. We rechecked the fuse and it was okay. I rode around the street and tried reverse again still no go.

[NancysToy]

Do your radio, horn, heated grips, etc. still work? If so, I'd suspect a burned out reverse actuator. The dealer will have to verify through BUDS. If not, you probably blew the 40 amp Accessories maxi-fuse (MFB1) under the seat. Sounds like time for a little dealer assistance, unless you find something obvious.

[Lamonster]

Scotty, we replaced the fuse and I tried reverse and it didn't work. We rechecked the fuse and it was okay. I rode around the street and tried reverse again still no go.

Depending on mileage the reverse actuator may need to be adjusted.

[NorthStar]

Last week I hooked up the trailer and had only my brake lights. No running or signal lights. The F7 fuse was blown and I could not replace the fuse without it blowing again. I took it to the dealer yesterday and the first thing we did was disconnect the trailer harness. This fixed the blown fuse issue but unfortunately it confirmed that the trailer module was toast. Purchased a new trailer module and did the install and we are good to go.

What I could not figure out is why my reverse actuator worked with a blown F7 fuse. Anyone? I have an SE5