Anything to be concerned with the 2010 RTs

[MidLifeCrisis]

Hi all,

I keep seeing used 2010 RTs, but it seems a ton of changes were made for the 2011s. Are there any points of concern with the 2010s I should watch out for?

I've been interested in the 2011 RTS for the adjustable susspension. Can this be added to the 2010, even if it's a manual version?

Thanks,

[gorcutt]

Only the fun you can have rideing one.

[bruiser]

We've had ours almost two years and have not had any serious issues.

[dave01]

Hi all,

I keep seeing used 2010 RTs, but it seems a ton of changes were made for the 2011s. Are there any points of concern with the 2010s I should watch out for?

I've been interested in the 2011 RTS for the adjustable susspension. Can this be added to the 2010, even if it's a manual version?

Thanks,

2010 RTS comes with the adjustable rear suspension. Not a ton of changes between the 10 and 11's. Shocks are better on the 11 and windshield/wind deflector changes.

[rcantrell52]

We have a 2010 Rt-S with over 4800 miles. We have enjoyed riding this Spyder. Rode 289 miles today.
Reese

[RodO]

I've 16,000 km (10,000 miles) and no real issues!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ARtraveler]

I have a 2010 RTS. 21,000 miles and no major problems.

[bikeguy]

My 2010 RT is 2 years old this month and has 25,000 miles. BRP replaced the power steering unit on a recall and replaced the throttle body under warranty. I replaced the shocks with 2011 shocks to get a little flatter cornering and less body roll but that was something I wanted, not something that was necessary. Bottom line is that I have spent $0.00 dollars on repairs and have never been close to being stranded on the road. That's about all I can ask of a bike.

Cotton

[SpyderAnn01]

I've got 30,800 on mine and I love it. No real changes on the 2011 that should keep you from purchasing a 2010

[Bob Denman]

Changes from one model year to the next are pretty much inevitable. If you buy a 2012 now; think what the 2015 models might have that you can only wish about! :gaah:
Get the ride and enjoy it. Upgrade when the mood strikes you and NEVER apologize for last year's bike! :thumbup:

[MidLifeCrisis]

My 2010 RT is 2 years old this month and has 25,000 miles. BRP replaced the power steering unit on a recall and replaced the throttle body under warranty. I replaced the shocks with 2011 shocks to get a little flatter cornering and less body roll but that was something I wanted, not something that was necessary. Bottom line is that I have spent $0.00 dollars on repairs and have never been close to being stranded on the road. That's about all I can ask of a bike.

Cotton

Those are the things I'm interested in. Assuming I make a move on a 2010, with little to no warranty remaining, are the recalls/updates something BRP provides either way, or would there have to be a problem within the warranty period. I'd hate to make a move and then find out the throttle body or something is impacted by the recall, but the original owner "never had any problems with it" and now without a warranty, I have no options. I would also be interested in replacing the shocks. How much to make that conversion?

Sorry for the newbie paranoia. Just trying to go into the spider with more knowledge and less emotions.

Thanks,

[MidLifeCrisis]

Changes from one model year to the next are pretty much inevitable. If you buy a 2012 now; think what the 2015 models might have that you can only wish about! :gaah:
Get the ride and enjoy it. Upgrade when the mood strikes you and NEVER apologize for last year's bike! :thumbup: Shoot, every car I own is so yesterday. :p It's mostly the recalls I'm concerned with.

[Lamonster]

The 2010 had some minor issues that they corrected in 2011. One of the correction caused another issue that is just now getting fixed. About the only thing I would do if I bought a 2010 is change out the shocks and windshield, other than that it should give you years of good times till you're ready for something else. :doorag:

[Bob Denman]

Shocks and windshield...
I wouldn't change out the shocks until I tried bumping the preload up from the stock (#3) position... It was definitely soft as delivered, but I moved mine to position #4 and have been pretty darn happy with it... But I'm also CHEAP! :opps:
The smaller windshield will (might?) offer a bit better fuel economy; but they're expensive enough that you can buy a lot of fuel for the cost of one.
Oh! I think that they also rewired the front trunk electronics so that you can open it with the button without starting the Bike up

[NancysToy]

Those are the things I'm interested in. Assuming I make a move on a 2010, with little to no warranty remaining, are the recalls/updates something BRP provides either way, or would there have to be a problem within the warranty period. I'd hate to make a move and then find out the throttle body or something is impacted by the recall, but the original owner "never had any problems with it" and now without a warranty, I have no options. I would also be interested in replacing the shocks. How much to make that conversion?

Sorry for the newbie paranoia. Just trying to go into the spider with more knowledge and less emotions.

Thanks,
Recalls affect all vehicles in a particular production range, and are usually performed prior to delivery if possible, on a used vehicle obtained from a BRP dealer. Have the dealer cross check the VIN# against the computer to see if a particular vehicle still needs recall work. The only recall affecting all 2010 RTs was the steering (DPS) recall. There were actually two of those, the second being the important one, where the DPS was replaced. There were some additional ones on small production ranges. The NHTSA site lists all recalls.

Warranty campaigns can affect all vehicles in a certain range...or just those exhibiting symptoms. Connecting a Spyder to BUDS usually shows the dealer if any across-the-board campaigns are outstanding. A VIN# search on the computer can show the same...I'd ask. Throttle body problems on the 2010s are fairly rare, and they do not have the same cause as the later RTs. There is no warranty campaign for those on the 2010, only the 2011 & 2012. Look at the seat on an early 2010. If it is delaminated at the bum stop, it should be replaced under warranty.

I'd strongly recommend a test ride of any 2010 you are considering, as well as asking a dealer to look up the VIN# on the computer. Don't settle for "It doesn't need anything." Ask for a printout of previous service work performed. The service history can tell you a lot about that particular Spyder. Beyond that, if I was buying a 2010 RT, I'd consider upgrading the front shocks to the 2011/2012 shocks or replacing them with Elkas. I'd also insist on having the alignment checked prior to delivery...and maybe having the toe-in slightly increased, especially if you are heavy or will ride with a passenger much of the time.

[Grandpa Spyder]

The 2010 had some minor issues that they corrected in 2011. One of the correction caused another issue that is just now getting fixed. About the only thing I would do if I bought a 2010 is change out the shocks and windshield, other than that it should give you years of good times till you're ready for something else. :doorag:

OK, I have to know why you would change the windshield????

[MidLifeCrisis]

Recalls affect all vehicles in a particular production range, and are usually performed prior to delivery if possible, on a used vehicle obtained from a BRP dealer. Have the dealer cross check the VIN# against the computer to see if a particular vehicle still needs recall work. The only recall affecting all 2010 RTs was the steering (DPS) recall. There were actually two of those, the second being the important one, where the DPS was replaced. There were some additional ones on small production ranges. The NHTSA site lists all recalls.

Warranty campaigns can affect all vehicles in a certain range...or just those exhibiting symptoms. Connecting a Spyder to BUDS usually shows the dealer if any across-the-board campaigns are outstanding. A VIN# search on the computer can show the same...I'd ask. Throttle body problems on the 2010s are fairly rare, and they do not have the same cause as the later RTs. There is no warranty campaign for those on the 2010, only the 2011 & 2012. Look at the seat on an early 2010. If it is delaminated at the bum stop, it should be replaced under warranty.

I'd strongly recommend a test ride of any 2010 you are considering, as well as asking a dealer to look up the VIN# on the computer. Don't settle for "It doesn't need anything." Ask for a printout of previous service work performed. The service history can tell you a lot about that particular Spyder. Beyond that, if I was buying a 2010 RT, I'd consider upgrading the front shocks to the 2011/2012 shocks or replacing them with Elkas. I'd also insist on having the alignment checked prior to delivery...and maybe having the toe-in slightly increased, especially if you are heavy or will ride with a passenger much of the time.

Good info. Thanks.:D

[Bob Denman]

Good info. Thanks.:D

Scotty's the MAN! :2thumbs:

[ARtraveler]

I did not change out my windshield either. I am also CHEAP like some other people. :roflblack:

I only drive with my windshield in the full up position when it is pretty cold out--otherwise I like looking over the top. This adjustment would lead to a little gas savings I am sure--but who's counting?

[Gordy]

some 2010s are still under basic warranty and you can still buy 3 years of best

[Dragonrider]

My RT S came with the stupid "shorty windshield" and I had to change it to the taller one - I get a bigger one, if it were available, but then my bride and I are NOT vertically challenged…. The shock change is worth the time and money, especially if you ride two up a lot.

If there's any original warrantee left, you should be able to buy a BEST for another two years.

[StanProff]

OK, I have to know why you would change the windshield????

I installed 2011 shocks on my 2010 RTS out of "want more than need" but it did help it corner a little flatter. I am not a sport rider anymore, The '11 shocks do help on the interstates resulting in less movement from wind or passing trucks. I cut my stock windshield down 3 inches to see over it instead of looking through it in the lowest position. I am 5'7" and the '10 shield was too tall for me. (the '11 and '12 shields are smaller). I figured the worst that could happen, if I messed it up, was to go buy a '11 sheild for $200.00 or so. The sheild came out really good and looks factory. Anyway i am happy with the Spyder as it is now and see no advantage to a newer one as of yet. Maybe in a couple of more years if something major in the engine department changes i might consider an upgrade.

Stan (Poppy)

[NancysToy]

OK, I have to know why you would change the windshield????
The 2011/2012 windshield is shorter and narrower, and the wind deflectors are angled back more. Some folks (including myself) prefer this.

[StanProff]

The 2011/2012 windshield is shorter and narrower, and the wind deflectors are angled back more. Some folks (including myself) prefer this.

I remove the lower deflectors in the summer months and it helps provide a cooler ride, anyone else do this? I always put them in the Frunk in case of cold spell and i can stick them back on.

[ThreeWheels]

The 2010 had some minor issues that they corrected in 2011. One of the correction caused another issue that is just now getting fixed. About the only thing I would do if I bought a 2010 is change out the shocks and windshield, other than that it should give you years of good times till you're ready for something else. :doorag:

One other thing, I'd change out the Spark Plug wires and Spark Plugs to the BajaRon or equivalent.

My 2010 wires were damaged after about 18 K miles.

Other than that, as usual, Lamont is absolutely correct.

[bikeguy]

Good advice from Scotty, StanProff, Lamont and others. My understanding is that the throttle body problems on the 2011's were caused by a software problem. I'm not sure about the 2010's. I know that the butterflies on the throttle body that came off my 2010 felt stiffer (harder to move by hand) than those on the replacement. I don't know if there is any way to predict whether a given 2010 will have problems or not.

The shorter windshield on the 2011 is probably better but the only time I have any problem with mine is in the rain. Like StanProff, I have to look through the windshield even with it all the way down so if the light is just right and there's rain on the shield, sometimes it can be a slight problem but not serious enough to spend much money to correct.

Assuming that you can buy a 2010 for considerably less money than a 2011 0r 2012, I wouldn't hesitate to do so. I expect to be riding my 2010 for quite some time.

Cotton

[MidLifeCrisis]

Shocks and windshield...
I wouldn't change out the shocks until I tried bumping the preload up from the stock (#3) position... It was definitely soft as delivered, but I moved mine to position #4 and have been pretty darn happy with it... But I'm also CHEAP! :opps:
The smaller windshield will (might?) offer a bit better fuel economy; but they're expensive enough that you can buy a lot of fuel for the cost of one.
Oh! I think that they also rewired the front trunk electronics so that you can open it with the button without starting the Bike up
How exactly do you bump the shock to position 4? I was looking at the shocks and it looks like it takes a special tool. Does the RT come with the tool? There also seems to be a possible 5th position. is that right?

thanks.

[MidLifeCrisis]

Good advice from Scotty, StanProff, Lamont and others. My understanding is that the throttle body problems on the 2011's were caused by a software problem. I'm not sure about the 2010's. I know that the butterflies on the throttle body that came off my 2010 felt stiffer (harder to move by hand) than those on the replacement. I don't know if there is any way to predict whether a given 2010 will have problems or not.

The shorter windshield on the 2011 is probably better but the only time I have any problem with mine is in the rain. Like StanProff, I have to look through the windshield even with it all the way down so if the light is just right and there's rain on the shield, sometimes it can be a slight problem but not serious enough to spend much money to correct.

Assuming that you can buy a 2010 for considerably less money than a 2011 0r 2012, I wouldn't hesitate to do so. I expect to be riding my 2010 for quite some time.

Cotton

Thanks to all the helpful people here, I'm looking at a 2010 now. :2thumbs:

[NancysToy]

How exactly do you bump the shock to position 4? I was looking at the shocks and it looks like it takes a special tool. Does the RT come with the tool? There also seems to be a possible 5th position. is that right?

thanks.

The tool is in your toolkit, under the seat. I suggest jacking up the Spyder to relieve the load on the front suspension, and spraying the spring adjusters with WD-40 to make things easier.

[MidLifeCrisis]

The tool is in your toolkit, under the seat. I suggest jacking up the Spyder to relieve the load on the front suspension, and spraying the spring adjusters with WD-40 to make things easier.

Thank. I'll have to do that, if things go as planned and I'm a new Spyder owner.:pray: