PDA

View Full Version : RT Hitch removal and belt adjustment



Lamonster
04-05-2012, 10:58 AM
These are questions that come up all the time so I decided that since I needed to make some adjustments on my belt I would go ahead and take some pics and add captions to answer some of the questions that have been posted here many times before. As they say a picture is worth a 1000 words so I hope this will cut down on my typing. :doorag:

You start by removing the through bolt that holds the hitch on.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43368&d=1333639436

This bolt should slide right out after the nut is removed from the right side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43369&d=1333639437

Now you're ready to remove the hitch after the bolt is removed.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43370&d=1333639439

The hitch is going to be on there pretty tight so grab the ball and move it side to side till it breaks loose. Then pull it straight back being careful of the brake line and sensor wire on the right side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43371&d=1333639440

This shouldn't take much more than 5 min. to get the hitch off. Took me a little longer as you can tell by the time stamp.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43372&d=1333639442

The last time my dealer did a tire change and belt tension check I got out my Krikit and marked it where he had it set with the sonic gauge. This has worked well for me for many years and you can pick these up for about $20 bucks.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43373&d=1333639443

When the Spyder is on the ground go ahead and loosen the axle nut. When you have the Spyder in the air you can start making adjustments. As you can see from the picture I have the belt just off of the sprocket flange about 1-2mm. This can be a fight some times and you're better off making small adjustments to start with as it doesn't take much to move the belt.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43374&d=1333639444

After I get the belt where I like it I check the tension while it's on the ground it should be a little more when it's on the ground because the swingarm is now more inline with the counter sprocket.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43376&d=1333639447

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43377&d=1333639449

I don't know how many times I've been asked about removing the hitch bolt from folks that thought it was the axle. This picture is just to show you that the axle is under the hitch and removing the hitch bolt has no effect on the belt tension.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43378&d=1333639450

BLUEKNIGHT911
04-05-2012, 11:41 AM
Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...:thumbup:

SteveMac
04-05-2012, 11:49 AM
Great Tutorial and Excellent Writeup! :2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs:

Lamonster
04-05-2012, 12:13 PM
Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...:thumbup:

I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

CyncySpyder
04-05-2012, 12:30 PM
I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum:firstplace: has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful :bowdown: Spyder Owners:clap: Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses :yes: Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT:2thumbs:

Littlebadwolf
04-05-2012, 01:07 PM
I'm looking to buy one of these hitches used if anybody's got one they want to part with.

EzeSpyderGA
04-05-2012, 04:34 PM
Is the 150# reading typical when the rear wheel is off the ground and the 200# reading when the :spyder2: has the rear wheel on the ground? Thanks for the great tip and the reference to the Kirkit tool. I found one with a 100-300 pound range and ordered that bad boy. :clap::clap:

IGETAROUND
04-05-2012, 06:02 PM
Here is a short u-tube video showing how to properly use the Kirkit tool




http://youtu.be/z11wfc-0-hY

BLUEKNIGHT911
04-05-2012, 06:16 PM
Thankyou very much , both of you that krikit video was SUPER INFORMATIVE the thing is useless or even dangerous if not used properly..Mike .....:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup: :agree:

canam9
04-10-2012, 03:40 PM
I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum:firstplace: has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful :bowdown: Spyder Owners:clap: Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses :yes: Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT:2thumbs:

:agree: Thank you thank you!!!:thumbup:

SpyderFun
05-02-2012, 05:01 PM
According to Service Bulletin 2010-6 the "new" factory tension is supposed to be:
450 +/- 150 Newtons
(or a minimum of 300 to a maximum of 600 Newtons)

Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds

Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
300 Newtons = 67.4 lbs
450 Newtons = 101.2 lbs
600 Newtons = 134.9 lbs

However, this does not mean what you should be getting. It simply shows the difference between the numbers the dealer uses versus what may seem an easy mathematical "conversion".

WHY BRP chose to measure the belt tension with an expensive piece of equipment is up for grabs! After all, tension is tension. They just chose an expensive way of measuring it.

IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which logically may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means. Conversely, if one were to tension a belt to "x" pounds it would also have a reflective newton value.

***Thanks Scotty for the updated limits! I was not aware of them when I made my original post.

NancysToy
05-02-2012, 05:37 PM
According to MWM the factory tension is supposed to be:
750 +/- 250 Newtons
(or a minimum of 500 to a maximum of 1,000 Newtons)

Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds

Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
500 Newtons = 112.4 Pounds
750 Newtons = 168.6 Pounds
1,000 Newtons = 224.8 Pounds

I hope this helps those that have questions about what numbers they should be getting.

IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means.
:lecturef_smilie: The belt tension spec was changed to 450 N +/- 150 N, per Service Bulletin 2010-6. Do not use the old tension spec, it will destroy the front sprocket and possibly the drive shaft. Also be aware that the BRP spec is the average of three readings taken at different places on the belt, and is read with the Spyder jacked up. Changes of conditions will change the readings. Theoretically, you cannot directly convert sonic meter readings, since they take belt width, span, and mass into account, while mere "scales" do not. The best method is to have the belt properly adjusted, then take baseline readings with an alternate meter, to get a target.

SpyderFun
05-03-2012, 09:59 AM
Updated my post with info provided by Scotty....

SpyderFun
05-03-2012, 10:12 AM
....Theoretically, you cannot directly convert sonic meter readings, since they take belt width, span, and mass into account, while mere "scales" do not.


Not sure I agree.
BEGINNING with a sonic measurement, which takes in all the belt info to determine a value, and then converting THAT number should work. BRP gives us their acceptable "sonic" range.
BUT, beginning with a tension and then trying to convert THAT, a number that takes no belt info into consideration, into a sonic equivalent would likely prove difficult if not impossible.
It would nice if some shop did a compareison between these two methods! ;) (i.e. a Kriket tensioned belt of "x" when "plucked" would give a "y" sonic value)



...The best method is to have the belt properly adjusted, then take baseline readings with an alternate meter, to get a target.

:agree:

NancysToy
05-03-2012, 11:39 AM
Not sure I agree.
BEGINNING with a sonic measurement, which takes in all the belt info to determine a value, and then converting THAT number should work. BRP gives us their acceptable "sonic" range.
BUT, beginning with a tension and then trying to convert THAT, a number that takes no belt info into consideration, into a sonic equivalent would likely prove difficult if not impossible.
It would nice if some shop did a compareison between these two methods! ;) (i.e. a Kriket tensioned belt of "x" when "plucked" would give a "y" sonic value)
:agree: It should work, and it is probably close, considering the OEM spec is now +/- 33%. I would also like to see a comparison of readings taken jacked up and on the ground.

SpyderFun
05-03-2012, 12:47 PM
:agree: It should work, and it is probably close, considering the OEM spec is now +/- 33%. I would also like to see a comparison of readings taken jacked up and on the ground.


I would add that +/- 33% is some SERIOUS "Slop Factor" for a company with roots in aviation and an engine company who make aircraft engines! :yikes:
Seems the engineers were way off on their initial "spec" numbers for belt tension. :banghead:
Makes one wonder what else they have "mis-calculated"? :dontknow:

:popcorn:

SpyderFun
05-07-2012, 10:49 AM
My belt was "flapping" and made for a terrible ride due to the vibration it put off. Too much "flap" under a load can cause the belt to skip over either the drive gear or wheel sprocket. Either could cause premature wear and failure.
A properly tensioned belt should be SMOOTH and not flapping. :thumbup:
However, there is a line between proper and over tension do not cross it or unseen wear may result. ;)

I found my belt was so under tensioned it gave me no reading on the Krikit (<100 lbs) and failed to have any clearance from the rear wheel sprocket and the rear wheel axle nut was not torqued to spec!

Seems we Owners are going to have to keep a sharp eye on our "professional mechanics"!

StanProff
06-29-2012, 09:03 AM
I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.

SpyderFun
06-29-2012, 10:10 AM
Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.


Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?

Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual. :read:

Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.

StanProff
07-16-2012, 03:37 PM
Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?

Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual. :read:

Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.

Doing alignment: I think I read somewhere that using 3rd was a little safer if something were to happen and the spyder fell to the ground. It would kill the motor easier than first. I am sure it doesn't matter much either way. Also it seemed to spin a little smoother in 3rd than 1st, i had it in both. 1st was a little more hurky jerky. Anyway the alignment worked out perfect and all is well. I ordered a Kriket to check the belt tension and will tackle that next. Thanks for your input.

Oldmanzues
07-16-2012, 03:52 PM
Thank you very much. Abig help, as allways
Oldmanzues

pellcitypete
01-02-2013, 06:09 PM
Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.

Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.nojoke I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all:cus: broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete

Lamonster
01-02-2013, 07:21 PM
nojoke I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all:cus: broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete

He got lucky and yours did what it should do. You should not run your Spyder in gear without pulling the speed sensor and I wouldn't recommend doing that. You can do all your adjustment just fine like I have posted above.

Bill C
06-23-2013, 05:23 AM
Thanks for all the info on adjusting the belt. Can anyone tell me how tight the axle nut should be? Thanks!!

NancysToy
06-23-2013, 09:53 AM
Thanks for all the info on adjusting the belt. Can anyone tell me how tight the axle nut should be? Thanks!!

96 lbf-ft

finless
06-23-2013, 11:32 AM
So if you were to adjust your belt without a reference to the original adjustment, what tools do you need to measure tension?

From reading this, the tool Lemont used is assuming the belt tension was correct to begin with?

I am taking mine in for the 600 mile service and my belt is "slightly" up against the flange so I know it needs to be adjusted and I plan to point that out to the dealer.

Thanks,
Bob

HuckFin
06-23-2013, 05:50 PM
So if you were to adjust your belt without a reference to the original adjustment, what tools do you need to measure tension?

From reading this, the tool Lemont used is assuming the belt tension was correct to begin with?

I am taking mine in for the 600 mile service and my belt is "slightly" up against the flange so I know it needs to be adjusted and I plan to point that out to the dealer.

Thanks,
Bob

You can measure your belt tension with the Klicket tool, 236 lbs for the 2013, 101 lbs for 2012 on down. What I did was buy the correct Klicket tool (in my case 100 to 300 lb range) to check belt tension when I picked up my new 2013 at the dealership....By the way, the belt checked out at 200 lbs with rear wheel on ground which is on the low side but I have no vibration issues so I left it that way.

pellcitypete
01-03-2014, 02:27 AM
I replaced my rear tire an brakes adj. belt like you said (rotated tire by hand) everything turned out great no problems with codes or limp mode.:thumbup: Thanks for the info. (I will listen from now on) PETE

M109Dreamer
01-03-2014, 12:08 PM
I picked up the Kirkit and fir the life of me cant figure out how to use it. I have read the instructions that can with it. But my question, on the Kirkit in the center where the "blue" part is are you suppose to pull up on it to set it before you apply pressure to the belt? And does the Kirkit reset automatically or do I need to do something manually to it to take another reading?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

jerpinoy
01-08-2014, 02:47 PM
I love this post, and thank you so much. Happy , happy , happy to all.

chipshotin
04-16-2014, 04:07 PM
I'm looking to buy one of these hitches used if anybody's got one they want to part with.

good luck ive been looking for 2 years

SpyderFun
04-16-2014, 07:37 PM
I picked up the Kirkit and fir the life of me cant figure out how to use it. I have read the instructions that can with it. But my question, on the Kirkit in the center where the "blue" part is are you suppose to pull up on it to set it before you apply pressure to the belt? And does the Kirkit reset automatically or do I need to do something manually to it to take another reading?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

The "blue" part is how the Kirkit measures the belt resistance.

Step 1. Make sure the "blue" is flush with the Kirkit or "pushed down"
Step 2. Find the center of the belt between the front sprocket and the rear sprocket.
Step 3. Place the Kirkit centered on the belt and push smoothly down until you hear a "click"
Step 4. Take the reading
Step 5. For an accurate reading - repeat the above after rotating the belt

Hope this helps!



-Mike

M109Dreamer
04-16-2014, 07:40 PM
Thanks Mike,
So just to be sure. I dont have to do anything prior to the Kirkit? Just push down evenly till I get the "click"?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

SpyderFun
04-16-2014, 07:43 PM
The Kirkit works just like a torque wrench.....except you do not set it first. The "click" your hear will be the belts tension - kinda automatic.


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

M109Dreamer
04-16-2014, 07:44 PM
The Kirkit works just like a torque wrench.....except you do not set it first. The "click" your hear will be the belts tension - kinda automatic.


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

Im tracking now, thanks!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

SpyderFun
04-16-2014, 07:44 PM
Glad to help!


-Mike
<Sent using Tapatalk>

TroyboyRn
04-17-2014, 08:54 PM
HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

StanProff
04-17-2014, 09:02 PM
HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

My 2010 RT S runs about 180 lbs. with the krikit. that is where it has been since new. Anything over 200 seems too tight to me and could cause bearing problems.

finless
04-17-2014, 09:49 PM
HEllo

I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

Can I just add.... The belt tension spec is SOOOOOO liberal that it's not rocket science. Scotty can jump in here but the current spec has a 30% variability range! It surprises me that with this HUGE range you even need a sonic gauge! It's like WTF?????

This is my honest opinion now that I have adjusted my belt AND watched many videos and other peoples posts on the "value" they read using the Kirkit gauge! Even from Lamont using the Kirkit gauge!

IT"S NOT FREAKIN THAT CRITICAL!

I did what everyone said. I went and got my 600 mile service and they DID adjust my belt. I know that because my tracking on the rear pulley was off and after service it was spot on! Then, that same day, I got a Kirkit and read the belt tension. It turned out to be EXACTLY like Lamont's video and others that used the Kirkit doing the same as I.

What did this tell me to be honest... IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE! It's not a VOOODOOO adjustment! And I am sorry... You don't need a expensive sonic gauge either! Why BRP does this is beyond me. Maybe they are trying to take into account that not all replacement belts are the same or something?

NOTE: If I had to replace my belt ONLY THEN would I consider the sonic adjustment! Even then I might just freakin say... screw it... I will do it myself.

Your mileage may vary but for me, I wont go to a dealer and spend $100 for a simple belt adjustment. I would be willing to bet right now that a few years from now, I will report back here that I have had NO issues doing this adjustment myself.

My .00000002 cents!

Bob

AbNormy
06-15-2014, 08:40 PM
Curious was checking mine and just tightened it 90' on each side keeps creeping to the outside so I tried tightening left keeps creeping left. How do you get it aligned from scratch if neither side is like it left dealer? Book says same as Lamont if want it right tighten left vice versa can't get it to quit creeping left.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

AbNormy
06-15-2014, 11:19 PM
Ran it after fiddling with it several hours between Sunday night chores got it close test drove it was a tad on the inside so I jacked it back up adjusted it little more. Not rocket science like its been said but helps to get it close enough for govt work!

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

SpyderFun
06-18-2014, 08:03 PM
Hello I have a 2010 RT-S. Ive read all the threads and am a bit confused. What is the belt tension range for my Spyder. Thanks

Keep in mind:
1st) its just a drive belt for a motorcycle...nothing more than that.
2nd) the "sonic" adjustment can be converted to an applied "pounds" of force.
3rd) BRP has "over complicated" this procedure by "Rube Goldberg"(ing) it.

sandman53
07-21-2014, 06:03 PM
Why is the belt tension so different between the 2012 and 2013?

pegasus1300
12-30-2014, 08:23 PM
I see that no one has replied to this question. As I hope to be buying a left over 2013 soon I too would like to know the answer to this question.

chuckk
12-30-2014, 09:39 PM
so... let me try to get this straight.. lamont says 150 to 200 lbs. using a krikit.. that sounds right.. then service bulletin #2010-6 says 450 plus or minus 150 newtons, which means 67.4 lbs to 134.9 lbs... that just sounds awfully low... but the threat of doing harm, with too much tension, has me worried..... lamont, are you aware of that service bulletin 2010-6 ? .. those math conversions have my little brain spinning....

SpyderFun
01-02-2015, 11:30 AM
.. those math conversions have my little brain spinning....

If BRP uses the "newton" as a way of measuring force, then simply multiply the *NEWTONS REQUIRED by 0.224808943 which is ratio of 1-newton to 1-pound.

Also, 0.2 is 2/10 which is reduced to 1/5 (i.e. 0.25 is 1/4). A "ball park" estimate, if you have no calculator, is to take the newtons required and divide by 5 (you will be "light" but you will have an idea of what it should be). So a "ball park" rough estimate of 300 - 600 Newton requirement is about 60 - 120 pounds. AND you will not be applying "excessive tension" to the belt. This is how other owners come up with their tension numbers.

Google: http://www.convertunits.com/from/Newtons/to/pounds

* = BRP can change this requirement at any time but the math remains constant.


Hope This Helps Clear Things Up!

srsjerry187
01-02-2015, 05:14 PM
nice tutorial u got there buddy :)

PatriotRider
01-08-2016, 03:03 PM
I'm getting a aggravating vibration when going up hill in 6th gear (bordering on lugging the engine at 3800 rpm) which I believe is the belt.

Is a vibrating belt caused by too high a tension, or too low. Recently, my dealership replaced the back tire with stock, so the belt was off, inspected, aligned, and put back. I notice the belt is against the pully ridge (back?) with very little space showing. They also claim they are up to date on tension and used the correct spec.

any comment ???

BLUEKNIGHT911
01-08-2016, 04:14 PM
......I have always had the tension on My 14 RT well below spec ( even the lowered one ) and have NO vibration.............I don't have any add-on tension devices either ........Mike :thumbup:

Bfromla
01-08-2016, 07:25 PM
With all this said i see a need for a vendor service @ spyderfest. Much like the alignments, yall agree?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wildrice
08-04-2016, 04:07 PM
I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it

The adjusting screws set the tire & sprocket in a left or right direction plus set the belt tension. Adjusting the right screw clockwise in (pushing the right side of the tire/sprocket to the rear) to move the belt away from the rear flange. Tell me how this would be different than adjusting the left screw counter clockwise? It has to be a balance to get the tire running straight with the desired belt tension & locating the belt on the rear pulley to the desired distance from the flange. I can't imagine how turning either screw would not effect either the tension or alignment, provided everything is straight---it's a both screw adjustment--unless the adjustment is minor & doesn't effect tension or alignment out of desired setting. Just my 2 cents worth.
Darrell

dwade
11-06-2017, 08:03 PM
These are questions that come up all the time so I decided that since I needed to make some adjustments on my belt I would go ahead and take some pics and add captions to answer some of the questions that have been posted here many times before. As they say a picture is worth a 1000 words so I hope this will cut down on my typing. :doorag:

You start by removing the through bolt that holds the hitch on.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43368&d=1333639436

This bolt should slide right out after the nut is removed from the right side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43369&d=1333639437

Now you're ready to remove the hitch after the bolt is removed.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43370&d=1333639439

The hitch is going to be on there pretty tight so grab the ball and move it side to side till it breaks loose. Then pull it straight back being careful of the brake line and sensor wire on the right side.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43371&d=1333639440

This shouldn't take much more than 5 min. to get the hitch off. Took me a little longer as you can tell by the time stamp.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43372&d=1333639442

The last time my dealer did a tire change and belt tension check I got out my Krikit and marked it where he had it set with the sonic gauge. This has worked well for me for many years and you can pick these up for about $20 bucks.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43373&d=1333639443

When the Spyder is on the ground go ahead and loosen the axle nut. When you have the Spyder in the air you can start making adjustments. As you can see from the picture I have the belt just off of the sprocket flange about 1-2mm. This can be a fight some times and you're better off making small adjustments to start with as it doesn't take much to move the belt.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43374&d=1333639444

After I get the belt where I like it I check the tension while it's on the ground it should be a little more when it's on the ground because the swingarm is now more inline with the counter sprocket.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43376&d=1333639447

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43377&d=1333639449

I don't know how many times I've been asked about removing the hitch bolt from folks that thought it was the axle. This picture is just to show you that the axle is under the hitch and removing the hitch bolt has no effect on the belt tension.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=43378&d=1333639450

I know this is an old post but it had the pics I need to remove my hitch. I have a question about the hitch. There are 2 bolts on each side of the hitch. I assumed they are there to remove the back portion of the hitch so you don't have to remove the the axle bolt and entire hitch. I tried to remove the rear section Saturday. When I got to the front bolt on the right side I found the disc brake is in the way. The bolt is too long to pull out because of the brake. Your pictures show the bolts mounted the same way as mine (the bolt head is on the inside of the hitch, the nut of the outside of the hitch.) This makes removing the back part of the hitch impossible. Is the rear section made to come off as opposed to removing the entire hitch. I guess I can just flip the bolt around. Am I missing something here?
Don

canamjhb
11-16-2017, 04:40 PM
I am about to do the drive belt alignment and tension adjustments for the first time (for me). My Krikit is in today's mail (Thank you, BajaRon). This post has excellent information but after reading it all I am still a little confused. The TSB has the belt tension lowered to 67-135 ft/lbs. But I also read other numbers. And, I'm not even sure the TSB is applicable to the RTL. My belt is riding almost exactly in the middle of the rear sprocket and I believe it should be closer to the inner sprocket flange. So, what is the correct tension for the belt on a 2014 RTL? And am I correct that the belt should ride about a credit cards thickness away from the inner flange on the rear sprocket.

Edit for more info... I just got my Krikit and measured the belt tension at 225#s I took the measurements on the bottom of the belt as it was easier to get to without taking body panels off. (I assume the tension is the same on the bottom as it is on top....?)

pegasus1300
11-16-2017, 05:38 PM
Dwade,yes you are missing something. You are NOT removing the axle bolt. You are removing the the thru bolt that holds the hitch on. This goes thru the axle and can be removed without disturbing the axle bolt,belt tension or belt alignment. Once you remove this bolt the hitch slides off,no other bolts need to be removed to remove the hitch. Why would you want to remove 4 bolts when you can remove 1 bolt to take off the hitch?

sledge
10-17-2021, 08:03 PM
very nice , my RT i just got, 2011 has a tow hitch on it , and I have looked at it , thinking about removing it . so glad I saw this . you folk's sure post things that Spyder people either Need to know ......or most like are gonna need to know..... Thanks so much.

BLUEKNIGHT911
10-18-2021, 12:39 PM
very nice , my RT i just got, 2011 has a tow hitch on it , and I have looked at it , thinking about removing it . so glad I saw this . you folk's sure post things that Spyder people either Need to know ......or most like are gonna need to know..... Thanks so much.

I won't repeat what was said in post # 54 above, ... So read it ... But it is absolutely necessary to do, because this will KEEP the BELT where it was before you started this task ..... Mike :thumbup: