Removing the Battery

[billythekidd]

Ok, so how much stuff has to come off to remove the battery??


Thanks


Willy

[NorthStar]

I remove the left side mirror, frunk left side service panel and upper, lower and middle panels to get access to the battery. The panel removal process takes about 5 minutes once you have done it a few times. I use a #30 Torx bit and a cordless drill to make the bolt removal easier on the panels. There are a two push pins that have to be removed up front as well that can be pried out using a flat head screwdriver. The battery is a pretty tight fit and you will have to push a few wires out of the way to get it to slide back and out. The first time is always an adventure so just take your time and you will find it isn't that bad a job.

If you feel comfortable removing your panels then you should be good to go.

[billythekidd]

Thanks for the reply. When I look in the battery area, there is a piece of metal at the back of the "tray" that keeps the battery from sliding out. From the way it looks the left saddlebag will have to come off. I am just going to take it to the dealer since none of the controls on the handle bars, parking brake turn signals or the display are working. It starts but the I do not have to push the mode button to start it and I cannot shift SE5 into gear. I thought the battery might be low and that was causing the problem, but I think something else is going on.


Willy

[CyncySpyder]

:dontknow:But if you think the battery is low, why not try leaving it on a trickle charger over night and see if it starts correctly or not the next day. If it doesn't, then I'd be look'n at replacing the battery, or as you said, take it to the dealer then. Couldn't hurt to try & just might save you some hassle & money, just say'n. Either way, good luck & please let us know what the outcome is. I haven't really heard of the problems as you described them. :shocked:

[billythekidd]

Thanks for your reply. I have charged the battery and it does start. When I turn on the key I hear all the familiar sounds, and the display lights up and says can-am. the speedo and the tach do their thing then when I should get the safety message that requires the mode button the display is just blank. The only thing visible are the icons at the top of the screen. The mode button doesn't work, the blinkers, parking brake or the shifter do not work. The bike will start (if I have charged the battery) and run but will not shift or do anything else. It is weird. Even when it is running I cannot turn on the parking brake. I have the tire chalked so it doesnn' roll. Anyways, I guess it will be off to the dealer on Tuesday. I forgot to mention that when it is running the tac does not show any rpm's.


Willy

[NancysToy]

Check your fuses and relays, especially F1, F3, and R3.

[Mr. White]

Scotty, are these fuses in the frunk?

:spyder2:

[fastfraser]

Scotty, are these fuses in the frunk?

:spyder2:

Fuses under the seat and in the front trunk against the back wall ( under the cover ).

[NancysToy]

Those particular fuses and relays are in the front trunk.

[NorthStar]

"When I look in the battery area, there is a piece of metal at the back of the "tray" that keeps the battery from sliding out. From the way it looks the left saddlebag will have to come off."

I do not know if the battery compartment changed in newer models, but in my 2010 the battery sits at about a 30 degree angle, front (+) to back (-), and once you release the safety strap the battery is pulled backwards and then upwards out of its resting place. It is a bit of a pain and like everything else tends to come out a bit easier than going back in. Good luck with your visit to the dealer. Maybe you can ask them about the battery removal process when you are there. You never know, they might even show you how it is done.

[billythekidd]

Thanks again for the reply's. On the 2011 model the battery sits the same way, but there is a small bracket at the back the holds the battery down and does not allow any lift other than in the front where the connections are. Also there is a bracket at the front and rear of the "tray" that only allows the batter to come out straight towards you as you are looking at it.

I checked all the fuses, and they are good, how does one check the relays?


Willy

[billythekidd]

Well, here is my problem... The dealer called today and asked if I connected the jumper cables backward (had the bike towed to the dealer 2 weeks ago because it wouldn't start, had been driving stopped for gas and nothing had the 12k done, and was told the battery cable was loose. Two days later bike would not start again so I jumped it and then just hooked up a charger to get it to run.) I had all the weird gauge problems nothing lit up and the buttons would not work and was told today that the power steering module was fried and the wire bundle going into the ps module had some melted wires. The 60 amp fuse is blown and the service manager said other fuses were blown as well, although when I checked them I could not see that. My question is what would cause the power steering module to fry and melt the wires. It was suggested by BRP that the only thing that could cause this was reverse polarity. There are no arc marks on the terminals from the jump or anything like that. Anyways.... I have to pay for a new battery and the 60 amp fuse. ????? The whole thing makes me feel very unsure about this machine. I have just about 12k and have had no problems until 2 weeks ago. They are going to fix it, but I am concerned that if that happened what else took a big electrical hit.

Any Ideas as to what may have caused this would be appreciated.

Willy

[billythekidd]

I am surprised no one has any thoughts on why could have caused this. I was thinking a short somewhere that possibly caused this. Thanks anyway


Willy