Engine Shuttering / Hesitation During Acceleration

[1551retired]

When my 2010 RT SE5 engine is fully warmed up it will sometimes start to shutter and hesitate during acceleration (under load). It doesn't do this all the time. I can start it cold at the house and it will run fine for the first 20 or 30 miles. Once I reach a cruising speed of 45 or 50 it will maintain speed fine but if I apply throttle it will start the shuttering again (will gain speed but struggles). Then all of a sudden it will smooth out and cruise fine. If I stop it will always idle fine and revs smoothly. Then if I turn it off for a quick 5 minute stop and start off again it starts the shuttering during acceleration. The engine seems to start fine even when hot. This doesn't happen 100% of the time but has been getting progressively worse over the past 2 or 3 thousand miles (10K miles on bike) and I don't want it to leave me stranded.

Dealer did the the first 600 mile service and I have done the rest at the normal 3,000 mile interval service other than pulling the front spark plug. I haven't gotten any fault codes during any of this.

Could this be a bad plug wire or spark plug, or even a dirty fuel filter? I'm hoping it's nothing to do with the TB as it has never shut off on me and starts relatively easy for a 2010.

I'm thinking of replacing the plug wires (Bajaron), spark plugs, and fuel filter myself before taking it to a dealer (especially since I'm not getting any fault codes).

Any help would be appreciated. :helpsmilie:

[DragonLorD]

Yes you are most than likely right, had the same thing, no one could figure it out, replaced Y gaskets - no change, replaced plugs with wires - solved. Plugs were fine btw. OEM wires are like that, develop losing conection when warmed up, basically worn out.
Let us know anyway, when you solve this issue.:thumbup:

[pierrelogic]

Fuel filter? With only 10K on it unlikely tho :dontknow:

[NancysToy]

Yes, it could be a plug wire. It could also be a bad ECM, an emissions valve leak, or some other problem. These things need to be diagnosed in person by a top-notch tech, one who can do both computer diagnostics and plain, old-fashioned mechanical troubleshooting.

[darren]

When my 2010 RT SE5 engine is fully warmed up it will sometimes start to shutter and hesitate during acceleration (under load). It doesn't do this all the time. I can start it cold at the house and it will run fine for the first 20 or 30 miles. Once I reach a cruising speed of 45 or 50 it will maintain speed fine but if I apply throttle it will start the shuttering again (will gain speed but struggles). Then all of a sudden it will smooth out and cruise fine. If I stop it will always idle fine and revs smoothly. Then if I turn it off for a quick 5 minute stop and start off again it starts the shuttering during acceleration. The engine seems to start fine even when hot. This doesn't happen 100% of the time but has been getting progressively worse over the past 2 or 3 thousand miles (10K miles on bike) and I don't want it to leave me stranded.

Dealer did the the first 600 mile service and I have done the rest at the normal 3,000 mile interval service other than pulling the front spark plug. I haven't gotten any fault codes during any of this.

Could this be a bad plug wire or spark plug, or even a dirty fuel filter? I'm hoping it's nothing to do with the TB as it has never shut off on me and starts relatively easy for a 2010.

I'm thinking of replacing the plug wires (Bajaron), spark plugs, and fuel filter myself before taking it to a dealer (especially since I'm not getting any fault codes).

Any help would be appreciated. :helpsmilie:

Mine done the same thing they ended up replacing the compleate engine and all is fine, but since hearing about the plug lead problems I wonder if they could be the problem , ask your dealer to cheak them or better still insist that they look at them. It could end up being a quick fix

[1551retired]

Yes, it could be a plug wire. It could also be a bad ECM, an emissions valve leak, or some other problem. These things need to be diagnosed in person by a top-notch tech, one who can do both computer diagnostics and plain, old-fashioned mechanical troubleshooting.

Thanks for the advise. Wouldn't a bad ECM throw a code? Do you think a plug wire or any of the other items you mention would be covered under the two year warranty? I'm in FL for the winter and my regular dealer is back north in VA. I'm thinking about taking it into the Naples, FL dealer when they open Tuesday.

[NancysToy]

Thanks for the advise. Wouldn't a bad ECM throw a code? Do you think a plug wire or any of the other items you mention would be covered under the two year warranty? I'm in FL for the winter and my regular dealer is back north in VA. I'm thinking about taking it into the Naples, FL dealer when they open Tuesday.
Bad ECM won't necessarily throw a code. The one on my 2010 didn't. The typical approach is to replace the plugs and wires, and if that doesn't work, replace the coil and/or ECM...with BRP's guidance and permission. Plug wires should be covered under the mandatory 5-year emissions warranty, but you may have to educate your dealer. There can be other causes that I didn't mention, many not showing on a diagnostic and requiring mechanical testing to identify. It can be a challenge even to a good technician. I hope yours is a simple problem...but a dealer really needs to look at it. If you can bring it in when it is acting up, so much the better. By morning when the tech sees them, they often seem to heal themselves.

[boborgera]

I had a similar problem and it was a Spark plug wire, And it was covered by the emissions warranty, But if i remember correctly the warranty is 3 years or 30 thousand miles, whichever comes first. I had to pay for the wire myself to expedite things,:banghead: Then i sent the dealer a copy of the warranty and got my money back .:mad:

[Floyd Baughman]

I had the same trouble but after running my tank of gas down to almost empty and put a full tank back in and top speed 40 mph and max rpm 3,000 made it back home and I put water desolve and it took care of my problem. So I use it during the cold weather every 5 tanks. Also use a fuel additive booster to help things.:cus:

:spyder2:








When my 2010 RT SE5 engine is fully warmed up it will sometimes start to shutter and hesitate during acceleration (under load). It doesn't do this all the time. I can start it cold at the house and it will run fine for the first 20 or 30 miles. Once I reach a cruising speed of 45 or 50 it will maintain speed fine but if I apply throttle it will start the shuttering again (will gain speed but struggles). Then all of a sudden it will smooth out and cruise fine. If I stop it will always idle fine and revs smoothly. Then if I turn it off for a quick 5 minute stop and start off again it starts the shuttering during acceleration. The engine seems to start fine even when hot. This doesn't happen 100% of the time but has been getting progressively worse over the past 2 or 3 thousand miles (10K miles on bike) and I don't want it to leave me stranded.

Dealer did the the first 600 mile service and I have done the rest at the normal 3,000 mile interval service other than pulling the front spark plug. I haven't gotten any fault codes during any of this.

Could this be a bad plug wire or spark plug, or even a dirty fuel filter? I'm hoping it's nothing to do with the TB as it has never shut off on me and starts relatively easy for a 2010.

I'm thinking of replacing the plug wires (Bajaron), spark plugs, and fuel filter myself before taking it to a dealer (especially since I'm not getting any fault codes).

Any help would be appreciated. :helpsmilie:

[Lamonster]

I've heard of some evap can valves getting stuck wide open and that could cause some of these issues too.

[1551retired]

I've heard of some evap can valves getting stuck wide open and that could cause some of these issues too.

Thanks for that information. My problem doesn't happen all the time. I can ride 30 miles or more before it starts acting up. Took it to a dealer in Naples, FL yesterday so hopefully they will be able to recreate the problem and find a solution.

[1551retired]

Update. Took the bike to the dealer this week and the tech couldn't duplicate problem with a 2 mile ride :shocked: Yesterday I went to dealership and drove the :spyder: for about 40 miles before it started acting up. Got the tech to ride it and experience the shuttering problem. Tech said he was going to put it on the computer and call BRP. Fingers crossed they will find and fix the problem(s).

[NancysToy]

Update. Took the bike to the dealer this week and the tech couldn't duplicate problem with a 2 mile ride :shocked: Yesterday I went to dealership and drove the :spyder: for about 40 miles before it started acting up. Got the tech to ride it and experience the shuttering problem. Tech said he was going to put it on the computer and call BRP. Fingers crossed they will find and fix the problem(s).
If it is a bad purge valve or engine valves that are too tight, it will not show on the computer. Same for certain ignition problems. Some old-fashioned testing will probably be in order.

[Bob Denman]

Don't you just hate it when the techs refuse to actually do any thinking for themselves?? :gaah:
"No codes; then there's no problem!" :cus:

[1551retired]

Went by the dealer on Saturday to check on their progress. The tech seems to think it's the fuel pump or somewhere in the fuel delivery system. They are closed on Monday but will call BRP tomorrow to talk withsupport and hopefully order parts. Has anyone else seen the fuel deliverysystem cause this type of problem?

[SpydherLuv]

A friend has her 2010 in the shop for the very same issue and the tech finally discovered that there was water in the fuel system.

[1551retired]

Got a call from the dealer yesterday saying they thought they had fixed the problem(s). Picked it up this AM and took it for a 60 mile ride. It starting doing the same thing after about 50 miles into the ryde so took it back to the dealer where I left it again. They immediately put it on the computer while it was hot and acting up but don't know if they found any new codes.

The repair order I received this AM before taking it for a ride showed the following work done:

Parts
2 - Spark Plug DCPR9E

Labor
Tighten Battery Terminals .3 hr
Air Temperture Sensor .3 hr
T P Sensor 1.1 hr
Air Pressure Sensor .4 hr
Diag .5 hr

Resolution
Checked Fault Code.
P0175 Active - System Too Rich,
P0136/P1175/U0101/C1290/P0500 - Occured.
Checked Air Temp Sensor/ Map Sensor/TPO Sensor/ Injector, - OK
Changed Plug. Checked Wire Connections, Tighten Battery, Tighten Air Pressure Tube.

[Farmboy]

Got a call from the dealer yesterday saying they thought they had fixed the problem(s). Picked it up this AM and took it for a 60 mile ride. It starting doing the same thing after about 50 miles into the ryde so took it back to the dealer where I left it again. They immediately put it on the computer while it was hot and acting up but don't know if they found any new codes.

The repair order I received this AM before taking it for a ride showed the following work done:

Parts
2 - Spark Plug DCPR9E

Labor
Tighten Battery Terminals .3 hr
Air Temperture Sensor .3 hr
T P Sensor 1.1 hr
Air Pressure Sensor .4 hr
Diag .5 hr

Resolution
Checked Fault Code.
P0175 Active - System Too Rich,
P0136/P1175/U0101/C1290/P0500 - Occured.
Checked Air Temp Sensor/ Map Sensor/TPO Sensor/ Injector, - OK
Changed Plug. Checked Wire Connections, Tighten Battery, Tighten Air Pressure Tube.



Just a thought, I had this prob. once. The crank censor was shorting after it got hot and droping one plug about ever other heart beat. BRP had them to oum the crank censor out cold and then when at full operating timp. and it was bad. replaced and all is good.

[1551retired]

Called the dealer to get a status this afternoon. BRP has advised the tech to check the intake valve clearances.:dontknow: The tech will not be able to complete the valve check until early next week.

The bike seems run fine for the first 30 or 40 miles before the problem occurs. The hesitation/shuttering only occurs when opening up the throttle and accelerating at about 3500 rpm in 2, 3, 4, or 5th gear. It idles fine after getting hot and seems to run ok at a constant/steady speed. Is it possible that an intake valve clearance problem would cause the problem I'm experiencing?

[boborgera]

[QUOTE=1551retired;415838]
The hesitation/shuttering only occurs when opening up the throttle and accelerating at about 3500 rpm in 2, 3, 4, or 5th gear.

Are you shiffing at 3500rpms,??
Or does it at shutter as you reach 3500 and then when you accelerate''past'' 3500 it runs fine.??

[1551retired]

[QUOTE=1551retired;415838]
The hesitation/shuttering only occurs when opening up the throttle and accelerating at about 3500 rpm in 2, 3, 4, or 5th gear.

Are you shiffing at 3500rpms,??
Or does it at shutter as you reach 3500 and then when you accelerate''past'' 3500 it runs fine.??

I shift around 4500 rpm or above. Shuttering and loss of power happens when accelerating 3500 and above .

[NancysToy]

Called the dealer to get a status this afternoon. BRP has advised the tech to check the intake valve clearances.:dontknow: The tech will not be able to complete the valve check until early next week.

The bike seems run fine for the first 30 or 40 miles before the problem occurs. The hesitation/shuttering only occurs when opening up the throttle and accelerating at about 3500 rpm in 2, 3, 4, or 5th gear. It idles fine after getting hot and seems to run ok at a constant/steady speed. Is it possible that an intake valve clearance problem would cause the problem I'm experiencing?
Yes, inadequate valve clearance could cause such a problem when the engine gets good and hot.

[1551retired]

Yes, inadequate valve clearance could cause such a problem when the engine gets good and hot.

Thanks for that information! That makes me more confident the tech is on the right track. So assuming it is a valve clearance problem do you think an adjustment would fix the problem? I would hope the intake valve wouldn't be burned with only 8,000 miles and would need replacing.

[NancysToy]

Thanks for that information! That makes me more confident the tech is on the right track. So assuming it is a valve clearance problem do you think an adjustment would fix the problem? I would hope the intake valve wouldn't be burned with only 8,000 miles and would need replacing.
Intake valves are less likely to burn than exhaust valves. Adjustment should cure it, provided the valve isn't bent and moves freely, and that there is no carbon buildup on the valve seats. I'm sure they make it right for you, even if it becomes more involved.

[1551retired]

Tech checked the intake valve clearances per BRP recommendation and found no problem. After several discussions with BRP the tech convinced them to change out ignition coils and wiring. Parts are on order and will hopefully be in Tuesday. :spyder2: has been at dealer for over two weeks now. Sure hope this takes care the problem.

[Mr. White]

I sure hope this clears your problem. I am glad your dealer is trying to fix your scoot...some don't as you know.

:spyder2:

[1551retired]

Tech changed out the ignition coil and plug wire. He then test drove for about 45 minutes and said it ran fine. I picked it up today and rode about 45 miles before it started acting up again. Took it back to the dealer tech and sugguested they check the purge valve or maybe it needs a new ECM. It has now been in the shop for over three weeks. The dealer tech seems to keep putting it on the computer every time I bring it back and acting up, and then calls BRP. Wouldn't you think BRP would have some history of this type problem and suggest what needs replacing? Seems like the tech needs BRP to approve anything he wants to try.

Another week or more without a ryde. Good thing the RT isn't my only means of transportation.

BRP are you listening to any of this!!!

[spyryder]

I'd have a look at the crank sensor as mentioned in post #18

[1551retired]

Got the :spyder:back yesterday after being in the shop for four weeks. Took it for a 65 mile ride and didn't experience the problem:yes:. The shop finally found a vacuum leak and replaced the purge valve.

[BajaRon]

Got the :spyder:back yesterday after being in the shop for four weeks. Took it for a 65 mile ride and didn't experience the problem:yes:. The shop finally found a vacuum leak and replaced the purge valve.

They sure took the tough way around that mountain. The problem is the symptoms you had can be caused by any number of things. Swapping out parts till you find the culprit is the old school way of doing it. But computers can only tell you so much.

Simple problem, just hard to find. Glad you got your ride back for the summer!

[CyncySpyder]

nojokeI know how frustrating all the waiting & failed fixes can be :banghead:

:joke:Hopefully, this time is it & you get to ENJOY the ryde again :pray: