They're BACK! (Iridium Plugs)

[BajaRon]

Finally, I've got the NGK DCPR9EIX Iridium plugs back in stock. These are recommended for all but the 2011 RT.

Price was a bit higher so they will be $16 delivered (1 Pair) to US destinations.

I will ship them anywhere in the world for $7.50 each plus shipping.

I will also have the 1 heat range hotter Iridium plugs, (DCPR8EIX), in stock shortly. These will satisfy the new hotter plug requirement called for on the 2011 RT. I only got 32 of these (all they had).

http://members.cox.net/bajaron/NGK.jpg

[IWN2RYD]

Sooooo... What pair would be the best choice for the 2010 RT's?

And what about Plug Wires... Do we change those out as well? Thanks Ron...

[BajaRon]

Sooooo... What pair would be the best choice for the 2010 RT's?

And what about Plug Wires... Do we change those out as well? Thanks Ron...

I've had this debate and I've got nothing to go on except logic, which without more information, may not be accurate.

Here is my reasoning. Remember, we're talking ONLY about the RT, not the RS/GS which you should not change to a hotter plug.

Is there an engine/ignition/fuel map difference between the 2010 and 2011 that would require a hotter plug on the 2011? I am not aware of any. That would mean what is good for the goose you would think would be good for the gander.

However, from what I've heard, BRP is only going for a hotter plug on the 2011. So is there a difference, or would it be best to go 1 hotter on the 2010 RT as well?

I don't know is the best answer I can give. If you're having good luck with the colder plug on your 2010, and if the stock plugs look like they are burning correctly then without more input from BRP to the contrary, I'd say stay with the OEM heat range.

I can't, in good conscience, recommend the hotter range for the 2010 RT without more information.

If you're having fouling or miss-fire problems (not associated with worn out plugs) then you might want to go with the hotter range.

I didn't change plug wires with the plug change. I think if you're careful and your wires are in good condition you'll be fine. One more advantage to the Iridium plugs lasting so long is you don't have to mess (and possibly damage) your plug wires very often.

The issue is what happens if you do end up with a bad plug wire? If you do not have one at the ready you're down until you get one.

I am going to try some aftermarket plug wires when I get the chance and see how they fare. There are some good looking, high quality aftermarket wire kits out there that I'd like to try.

[Recon]

I had a fouled plug and one cylinder running rich at MV and after running codes on my spyder there, tech recommended I get my mechanic to install the 8's heat range used on the 2011s

[BajaRon]

I had a fouled plug and one cylinder running rich at MV and after running codes on my spyder there, tech recommended I get my mechanic to install the 8's heat range used on the 2011s

I agree that the 8's are an option for riders getting fouled plugs. It may also have something to do with riding style.

For most people, staying with the OEM heat range is probably best. I'm running 9's and they work great.

Rule of thumb is to go with the coldest plug that does the job. As far as I can tell, 9's are the coldest plug NGK makes for our application. That means a pretty effecient engine design. At least as far as ignition goes.

[IWN2RYD]

Thanks for the info fellas... I need to think on this... For some reason my Service folks are telling me that the rear cylinder is running lean. So I am not sure what the heck to do...

I am running the TB Pro and I thought it would run rich more than not. My only guess is me trying to run @ 4300 ish RPMs as much as possible is not allowing the Controller to add any extra fuel (Not yet hitting the TB Pro controller for higher RPMs). :opps::spyder2:

[dabreitbach]

The issue is what happens if you do end up with a bad plug wire? If you do not have one at the ready you're down until you get one.

I am going to try some aftermarket plug wires when I get the chance and see how they fare. There are some good looking, high quality aftermarket wire kits out there that I'd like to try.


I use after market wires. Make your own length. Used a high quality 8mm plug wire. Cheap and very easy. 14000 miles so far and no problems.:2thumbs:

[Gordy]

Sooooo... What pair would be the best choice for the 2010 RT's?

And what about Plug Wires... Do we change those out as well? Thanks Ron...
dont think you want to change plug wires at $53.00 each unless you have to.:gaah:ask me how I know price

[BajaRon]

dont think you want to change plug wires at $53.00 each unless you have to.:gaah:ask me how I know price

I think aftermarket is the way to go. I just can't recommend this until I've tried it. This 8.8mm kit is one example but there are others. You can also get different ends if necessary.

http://www.chrome-addiction.com/prodimages/accel_ds-242651.jpg

[SethO]

so for the way I ride ron would say I would get more out of these, if so ,send them to me and I will send you want you want for them.I can also test those aftermarket wires for you and give you a report on if they help.

mine is of course a 09 se-5

[BajaRon]

So Friday I'm going to order a set so please remind me how to do that. :D

You can PM me or email me at fyredad@hotmail.com

Either way works fine. I will send you a Paypal invoice by email or you can mail payment if you prefer.

[BajaRon]

so for the way I ride ron would say I would get more out of these, if so ,send them to me and I will send you want you want for them.I can also test those aftermarket wires for you and give you a report on if they help.

mine is of course a 09 se-5

Personally, I think the Iridium plugs are the way to go no matter how you ride. You should always be careful taking the advise of someone selling the product, but I use these and I feel comfortable recommending them.

At the very least they more than pay for themselves with the extended change interval (at least 2-3 times the mileage of an OEM set). Plus the advantage of maintaining peak performance as opposed the the deteriorating condition of OEM plugs as the miles go by.

This saves time and effort while not messing with the spark plug wires nearly as often so they should last longer.

I just don't see a down side to using Iridium plugs in the Spyder.

As for the aftermarket wires, I need to look into getting the correct ends. I'm not sure the kit comes with the correct ones. I'm also thinking I might want to go with a hard plastic spark plug end if I can get them.

I sent you a PM.

[IWN2RYD]

dont think you want to change plug wires at $53.00 each unless you have to.:gaah:ask me how I know price

Wow $53... I am the type of fella that likes to keep my vehicles running the way they are supposed to at all times. Kind of OCD about it honestly. So I have developed the pattern of replacing the Plug Wires since I am already replacing the Plugs, at the same time.

Kind of like the "O" rings and seals on the bikes I own. Regardless of what the owners manual says, I replace them every oil change or any time I break the seal (Like the crank case components that have seals and "O"rings, or any part of the fuel system)

Anyway. I appreciate the cost info of the factory units. And will wait for Ron to discover what ends are best for the RT and RS/GS... Then pull the trigger...:thumbup::spyder2:

[BajaRon]

I have got the 1 heat range hotter NGK Iridium DCPR8EIX spark plugs recommended for the 2011 RT in stock now as well as the DCPR9EIX.

So here is how it breaks down in this ever changing world we live in.

DCPR9EIX - All RS, GS, RT Spyders, All years, All models EXCEPT for the 2011 RT.

DCPR8EIX - All 2011 RT, All Models.

$16 for 1-Set (2 Plugs) delivered to US addresses.
$17.50 for 1-Set (2 Plugs) delivered to Canadian addresses (as soon as the Postal Strike is over! :yikes:)

Anywhere else in the world $20.95 for 1-Set (2 Plugs)

Of course I'll ship as many as you want as long as supplies last! :D

Just PM me if you want any of these.

[SpyderGirl]

Thanks Ron!! That is a great price on the NGKs. I've been using the 9's in my GS for a while now and I am very happy with them. I know I paid more than $16 a pair for them.

[BajaRon]

Thanks Ron!! That is a great price on the NGKs. I've been using the 9's in my GS for a while now and I am very happy with them. I know I paid more than $16 a pair for them.

They should last a long time. Glad you like them. I really like them in my Spyder.

[flamingobabe]

sent you an email...fb

[BajaRon]

sent you an email...fb

Did you send it to fyredad@hotmail.com because I have not received it.

[pathfinderjoe]

You can PM me or email me at fyredad@hotmail.com

Either way works fine. I will send you a Paypal invoice by email or you can mail payment if you prefer.

Hello BajaRon,
I have read alot about these plugs so I'm now ready to try a set. My shipping address is PO Box 1636 Saint Helens, Or 97051. Questions - Is the gap the same as the O.E.M.? Any changes to the Juice box beneficial?

[BajaRon]

Hello BajaRon,
I have read alot about these plugs so I'm now ready to try a set. My shipping address is PO Box 1636 Saint Helens, Or 97051. Questions - Is the gap the same as the O.E.M.? Any changes to the Juice box beneficial?

There really are only 2 functional differences between the Iridium and the OEM plugs, neither of them are you going to notice in the short term. Of course, if you're replacing worn out plugs that are missing the improvement will be noticable but this would also be true if you put new OEM plugs in.

1- The Iridium take less current to fire than OEM. That is because the Iridium construction is more conducive and spark jumps the gap more easily.

2- The Iridium will deteriorate at a much slower rate than OEM giving you new spark plug performance over many thousands of miles. This will give you better performance and fuel mileage over the OEM plugs as the miles rack up.

So, instead of changing your OEM plugs every few thousand miles to maintain peak performance. You just run these Iridiums 2 or 3 times as far and still have excellent results.

I did not regap my Iridium plugs but I will check the gap vs OEM specs and post that.