Wrong BRP oil?

[Sopher]

I'm a bit miffed at the parts department of my dealer.
I specifically asked the guy which is best to use on my RTS, the Full synthetic YELLOW bottle oil or Semi Synthetic BLACK bottle oil.

He suggested the YELLOW. Come to find out that the YELLOW is for cold winters and BRP SNOWMOBILES.

I did the oil change about two weeks ago. The bike has been running fine.

I guess I could change it to the summer blend. Do i return the Winter oil after draining it? Suck up the $45 for the gallon and buy the summer blend?

He also gave me the wrong size crush washer. I did replace the oil filter too.

advise please.

[wukka]

I'm a bit miffed at the parts department of my dealer.
I specifically asked the guy which is best to use on my RTS, the Full synthetic YELLOW bottle oil or Semi Synthetic BLACK bottle oil.

He suggested the YELLOW. Come to find out that the YELLOW is for cold winters and BRP SNOWMOBILES.

I did the oil change about two weeks ago. The bike has been running fine.

I guess I could change it to the summer blend. Do i return the Winter oil after draining it? Suck up the $45 for the gallon and buy the summer blend?

He also gave me the wrong size crush washer. I did replace the oil filter too.

advise please.

Don't waste any more of your time...find another dealer.

[wyliec]

Let them change the oil at no charge, if you can trust them.

[Raptor]

Yeah, that's kind of a tough one. It might be worth a call to the dealer in question and have a chat with the owner, explain your situation and see if he will work with you on a reasonable compromise. I don't know that you'll receive a significant portion of your money back but he should see his way clear to give you something back. Based on how that interaction goes will determine whether or not you need to seek out a new dealer. Chances are you will but you never know; it's worth a shot.

[Dudley]

If the oil is wet clutch compatible I would just ride. The Spyder for sure can't tell what you put in it.

[Raptor]

If the oil is wet clutch compatible I would just ride. The Spyder for sure can't tell what you put in it.

Dudley, that is a great point which I neglected to mention. If the oil that is in the engine now is at least compatible, it's probably good for one cycle even if it is not what you wanted. Of course the choice is yours whether or not you wish to retain it...

[BajaRon]

I'm a bit miffed at the parts department of my dealer.
I specifically asked the guy which is best to use on my RTS, the Full synthetic YELLOW bottle oil or Semi Synthetic BLACK bottle oil.

He suggested the YELLOW. Come to find out that the YELLOW is for cold winters and BRP SNOWMOBILES.

I did the oil change about two weeks ago. The bike has been running fine.

I guess I could change it to the summer blend. Do i return the Winter oil after draining it? Suck up the $45 for the gallon and buy the summer blend?

He also gave me the wrong size crush washer. I did replace the oil filter too.

advise please.

I do not know of any other engine oil product that does not list viscosity. This to me is pretty disturbing. It's like selling gasoline and not giving any octane rating. Just telling you "Use This One".

Back when BRP was rating their oil, winter grade was 0w-30 or 0w-40, Summer grade was 5w-40 or 10w-40. I really do not like this lack of information approach at all. My feeling is it lets BRP change viscosity without having to change labels or deal with having to explain it to customers. Just a shot in the dark.

Chances are what you are running is lighter than it should be. Some people go sideways when 10w-40 oil is suggested saying it will void the warranty (not true but you know how that goes). But if anything will void a warranty it's using an oil that is too thin.

Being full synthetic you're probably fine since the upper viscosity number is in spec. Once you reach operating temp the oil would be fine. And you're always better off with a full synthetic over a blend, as long as the other parameters are right.

It's just the idea that the customer needs to be kept in the dark about something as important as oil. I really don't get it.

[Star Cruiser]

If the oil is wet clutch compatible I would just ride. The Spyder for sure can't tell what you put in it.
:agree: The yellow containers ARE compatible and are FULL SYNTHETIC. in my opinion better than the blend that they started selling. The Original manuals from 2008 stated to use synthetic (the yellow bottles, specifically). I think there was a shortage from thier supplier, at least that is what many on the forum thought at the time, and all of a sudden the Blend was OK to use.
I'd leave the full synthetic in for the 3000 miles and change over to semi -synthetic after tthat. OF course you might see that you like the Full Synthetic better and opt to stick with it. THe Full synthetic is a little more expensive. Either one SHOULD be good for more than 3,000 miles, but THAT is a whole other story.

Enjoy the RYDE!

[Dudley]

Don't do as I do, but I use Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic automotive oil year round. Used it for over 40,000 on our SE5 and have run the RT 9000 miles with no issues. RP does not use solid mollies(?) in the oil, so no clutch buildup. The SE5, when the valves were checked before reselling it, the valves didn't need adjusting...43,000+ miles! During our almost 14,000 mile trip around the country I never changed oil, just added 2 quarts total. RP oil and Spyder, a great combination!
And I can get it for $8.99 a quart in almost any automotive parts store.

[RAL]

I'm a bit miffed at the parts department of my dealer.
I specifically asked the guy which is best to use on my RTS, the Full synthetic YELLOW bottle oil or Semi Synthetic BLACK bottle oil.

He suggested the YELLOW. Come to find out that the YELLOW is for cold winters and BRP SNOWMOBILES.

I did the oil change about two weeks ago. The bike has been running fine.

I guess I could change it to the summer blend. Do i return the Winter oil after draining it? Suck up the $45 for the gallon and buy the summer blend?

He also gave me the wrong size crush washer. I did replace the oil filter too.

advise please.

Run it for 3000. Next time get your filter off E-bay and get a good Synthetic bike oil that is not a mystery blend. Let your dealer know what you are doing and why.

RAL

[boborgera]

It isn't summer yet, You'll do alright with that oil.
Next oil change go with an oil that has better labeling on the bottles.
For some reason BRP likes to keep it's customers in the dark.:lecturef_smilie:

[Trickie Dick]

Run it for 3000. Next time get your filter off E-bay and get a good Synthetic bike oil that is not a mystery blend. Let your dealer know what you are doing and why.

RAL
Forget ebay for the filter and washers. Go directly to Baja Ron. You can buy them on ebay but he has to pay eBay to sell them. Buy directly from him, no eBay charges. :thumbup:

[dltang]

Forget ebay for the filter and washers. Go directly to Baja Ron. You can buy them on ebay but he has to pay eBay to sell them. Buy directly from him, no eBay charges. :thumbup:

:agree:

[NancysToy]

Like Ron, the fact that BRP sells (and specifies) oils without viscosity ratings both worries me and irritates me. There is no reason on earth to do it, except to deceive the buyer. It is irresponsible!

I would not worry about the oil. First, are you sure they used the winter weight? Their full synthetic XPS summer weight oil comes in a yellow container, too. It really shouldn't matter, except maybe in a hot climate. A multi-viscosity oil takes on the characteristics of the lower weight when cold, but acts like the higher listed weight when at operating temperature. The oils will both act like 40 weight when the engine warms up. If anything, I would make sure I did not lug the engine or load it excessively while it was still cold...that is all. Those in very hot climates might want to worry, though. "Cold" starts when it is 100 degrees outside could be iffy with the lighter oil.

My dealer keeps confusing the crush washers, too. Now I just take the part numbers to him and ask for them that way. There are advantages to doing your own oil changes. You know what parts are installed, you can inspect the oil, magnet, crush washers, and O-rings for yourself, and the only one to blame for mistakes is yourself. :D

[spydee owner]

Don't do as I do, but I use Royal Purple 10W40 Synthetic automotive oil year round. Used it for over 40,000 on our SE5 and have run the RT 9000 miles with no issues. RP does not use solid mollies(?) in the oil, so no clutch buildup. The SE5, when the valves were checked before reselling it, the valves didn't need adjusting...43,000+ miles! During our almost 14,000 mile trip around the country I never changed oil, just added 2 quarts total. RP oil and Spyder, a great combination!
And I can get it for $8.99 a quart in almost any automotive parts store.

I think no matter what brand of full synthetic, run it at least 10,000 miles. People who get this mindset of changing the oil every 3000 to 5000 miles are really not getting their moneys worth out of the full synthetic.

[BajaRon]

I think no matter what brand of full synthetic, run it at least 10,000 miles. People who get this mindset of changing the oil every 3000 to 5000 miles are really not getting their moneys worth out of the full synthetic.

It makes people nervous to run that far on on oil change. Old habits and ideas die hard. And under warranty I'm not sure it is wise to go that long. But you are exactly right. I run 5-7k on Amsoil and I know I'm changing it too soon.

1 oil change a year is more than adequate for most Spyder riders. Also, freeway miles are very easy on oil. It's stop and go, traffic miles that are hard on oil.

[Sopher]

Well with my ryding habits, about 4000 miles is my average for the year anyway. Even with driving the RTS to work and to my clients offices, Its a the most i cab hope for to have a non-rainy day.

So a yearly oil change is on par for me.

[Minister]

It makes people nervous to run that far on on oil change. Old habits and ideas die hard. And under warranty I'm not sure it is wise to go that long. But you are exactly right. I run 5-7k on Amsoil and I know I'm changing it too soon.

1 oil change a year is more than adequate for most Spyder riders. Also, freeway miles are very easy on oil. It's stop and go, traffic miles that are hard on oil.

Does anyone know if BRP will honor their warranty if you run extended miles
on full synthetic, instead of the 3000 mile oil change?

[NancysToy]

Does anyone know if BRP will honor their warranty if you run extended miles
on full synthetic, instead of the 3000 mile oil change?
I wouldn't tell them. Unlikely you would have an oil-related failure anyway.

[BajaRon]

I wouldn't tell them. Unlikely you would have an oil-related failure anyway.

Very true. Just because a lubricated part fails does not necessarily mean it was oil related.

[clueless]

it says winter grade but it is all climate
http://store.can-am.brp.com/product/358844/293600112/_/XPS_4-Stroke_Synthetic_Oil_-_All_climate_Grade
click on the picture and the bottle says winter blend but its all season.

the full synth is better then the black semi syth. i am guessing the full synth is 5w40 as per spec and the semi maybe closer to 10w40.

the gold full synth is better then the black semi synth brp oil.

i ran the yellow full synth at the 600 mile service. before spyderfest I changed my oil to Motul 5w40 full synth after 2000 miles on the BRP full synth. no issues at all

[kentuckyguy]

I went to the dealer this morning to get the oil an filter for my 600 mile oil change.. They recommended for me to use the Suzuki 10w40 full synthetic.. They said that is was cheaper an a better oil.. 6.99 per qt..

[BajaRon]

I went to the dealer this morning to get the oil an filter for my 600 mile oil change.. They recommended for me to use the Suzuki 10w40 full synthetic.. They said that is was cheaper an a better oil.. 6.99 per qt..

A full synthetic oil will be better than a blend (which is just a fancy way of saying they put some synthetic in with standard oil).

Of course Suzuki doesn't make oil. They are just putting someones off the shelf stuff in a container with their name on it (just like BRP does). You don't know who's oil your getting but at least they are giving you more information that BRP does.

Without knowing more about it I'd say your dealer is right.

[Y Rider]

I don't know why anyone would have an issue running the yellow bottle XPS 4-Stroke Synthetic Oil. It is listed on their web site as "All climate grade". The only time to be concerned is when you use the XPS 4-Stroke Blend Oil - Summer Grade in cold weather.

[Minister]

:agree:

[mguin]

I run full synthetic AMSOIL 10W40. I use a private mechanic. The AMSOIL meets BRP's specs. It's not cheap- $11-$12 a quart but it's a well respected product. I did an oil change @ 6,000 miles. Last one was @ 3,000. He suggested extending the interval. I've been thinking about bumping my interval to 5,000. FYI... my Spyder runs awesome on the AMSOIL.

Mark G
Chandler, AZ

'09 SE5, Can AM Comfort Seat, Trunk liner, Tank Bag, Fog Lights, Can Am Billet Inserts, Can Am Upgrade Grips, Grip Puppies, CAl Sci Windshield, Yoshimura Exhaust, Extreme Kempy License Plate Light, Evoluzione Sway Bar, O2 Modifier, K&N Air Filter, Honda "Y" Gasket, Spyderdetailing.com SP08 Graphics Kit... and who knows what's next, probably RT front shocks. GO WITH THE AMSOIL, YOU WON"T BE SORRY!