Belt tensioner on eBay

[Questions]

:2excited:Has someone come up with the solution to Spyder belt tension? There is a Rotary belt tensioner on eBay for $295 that looks like it could be the answer for too tight/loose belts and the bearing problems associated with same. Add states it is adjustable up to 40 lbs tension. Simple 2 bolt installation don't want to be the first, but sure looks intertesting.

[wyliec]

Link please.

[Rando]

eBay link (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CAN-AM-SPYDER-ROTARY-DRIVE-BELT-TENSIONER-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb1bf844eQQitemZ26068 0156238QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)

[StriperKing]

Are people having the same bearing problems with the RT`s also?

[bcspyder]

This is the one Cpt Jim designed and posted on the forum a few days ago. Several of us asked for some more info if he wanted to sell the extras he produced. Not sure about the others but I didn't get a reply, so it looks like he just went straight to E-Bay.

[pierrelogic]

IMHO, just another moving part to maintain. :dontknow:

[WackyDan]

This is the one Cpt Jim designed and posted on the forum a few days ago. Several of us asked for some more info if he wanted to sell the extras he produced. Not sure about the others but I didn't get a reply, so it looks like he just went straight to E-Bay.

yup.. But for that price... No thank-you. I'll live with the vibration.

[Firefly]

I'll be installing mine soon and will post the results.

Price might seem high, but it's a high quality adjustable tensioner with custom bracket for mounting that has been tested for thousands of miles.

You just might save the price of various Spyder parts that will break from vibrations----rear fenders anyone?

I'm doing it because I'd like a smoother ride at all RPM ranges-- with the lower belt tension.....:thumbup:

[qasamm]

I like the idea but don't want to be one of the first to try either. I will watch for feedback from those braver than me.

[Firefly]

I like the idea but don't want to be one of the first to try either. I will watch for feedback from those braver than me.

Really nothing to be afraid of--- this doesn't control the overall belt tension--- just puts some upward pressure on the belt to remove excess vibration.

[SpyderWolf]

I'll be installing mine soon and will post the results.

Price might seem high, but it's a high quality adjustable tensioner with custom bracket for mounting that has been tested for thousands of miles.

You just might save the price of various Spyder parts that will break from vibrations----rear fenders anyone?

I'm doing it because I'd like a smoother ride at all RPM ranges-- with the lower belt tension.....:thumbup:

Very interesting indeed. I have not seen the postings about this yet, so will be very curious to see what your results are.

[qasamm]

Really nothing to be afraid of--- this doesn't control the overall belt tension--- just puts some upward pressure on the belt to remove excess vibration.

OK, I bit. Incredibly well made hardware. Install took 20 minutes at most. Instructions are well done (especially compared to some other add-ons I have done). My belt alignment needed readjustment after a 20 mile test ride and I needed to loosen the belt a hair since the whine returned. After that initial ride I also re-tightened the mount bolts that seemed to settle a bit.

Ride nicely improved. I had a vibration in the 5k rpm range that could chip a tooth from all of the commotion in that rpm range. Adjusting the belt moved it up or down the rpm range but it was always there. With the tensioner its gone. I did another ride the next day and had my wife along as the passenger. She asked what I changed because the ride was "different". She thought I "adjusted the muffler" that she digs me about- after adding the Hindle she does not like to ride as much. Incidentally I also added the Kewl Metal air intake a few days before and she did not notice the new roar from the engine compartment.

:2thumbs: to Jim for making these available.

[SpyderWolf]

OK, I bit. Incredibly well made hardware. Install took 20 minutes at most. Instructions are well done (especially compared to some other add-ons I have done). My belt alignment needed readjustment after a 20 mile test ride and I needed to loosen the belt a hair since the whine returned. After that initial ride I also re-tightened the mount bolts that seemed to settle a bit.

Ride nicely improved. I had a vibration in the 5k rpm range that could chip a tooth from all of the commotion in that rpm range. Adjusting the belt moved it up or down the rpm range but it was always there. With the tensioner its gone. I did another ride the next day and had my wife along as the passenger. She asked what I changed because the ride was "different". She thought I "adjusted the muffler" that she digs me about- after adding the Hindle she does not like to ride as much. Incidentally I also added the Kewl Metal air intake a few days before and she did not notice the new roar from the engine compartment.

:2thumbs: to Jim for making these available.

:congrats:

Glad to hear you are getting good results with it.

[Arthur---Mexico]

Come on fellows, you don't need that ball bearing belt tighener. Besides its cost, it will shorten the belt's life and reduce ground clearance. It's an un-needed gimick. I just adjusted my belt tension and centeredthe belt today on my 2008 GS SE5. It's easy but you do need two large Cresent type wrenches and a floor jack to lift the rear wheel off the ground. What you do is loosen the rear axle's nut. No need to remove the cotter key. Loosen the two Allen type screws that are used to tighten the belt pulling the axle to the rear. With something like a piece of Celeron or wood hit the loosened axle on each end so that it moves forward. This will completely loosen the belt. Then begin tightening the the two socket head screws used to pull the axle back while rotating the back wheel once in a while. When the belt becomes a bit snug you will have to check if it is riding on the center of the rear sprocket. If it is running to the outside of the rear sprocket you have to begin to tighten the right tension adjusting screw more than the left screw. If the belt is rubbing against the sprocket's flange you have to tighten the left adjusting screw a little more that the right one. Once the belt is running more or less in the center of the rear sprocket you have to tighten the rear axle's nut but not all the way tight. Then tighten each belt tightening screw exactly the same amount until you get the belt tension you want. Then you should tighten up the rear axle's nut securely. Getting the belt to run in the center of the rear sprocket is by trail and error as is getting the correct tension on the belt. With the rear wheel lifted off the ground the belt will be slightly less taught than when you lower the rear wheel on to the ground. The whole proceedure takes about one hour. Tightening and centering the belt is the correct way. Using that spring loaded belt tensioner does not tighten the belt sufficiently nor will it have the effect of centering the belt on the rear sprocket. You also will never know how much tension the belt has. Replacing that belt is NOT a $20.00 expense. Backing up with that spring loaded devise installed will play havoc on the belt.

You wrote:
Has someone come up with the solution to Spyder belt tension? There is a Rotary belt tensioner on eBay for $295 that looks like it could be the answer for too tight/loose belts and the bearing problems associated with same. Add states it is adjustable up to 40 lbs tension. Simple 2 bolt installation don't want to be the first, but sure looks intertesting.[/QUOTE]

[Firefly]

Come on fellows, you don't need that ball bearing belt tighener. Besides its cost, it will shorten the belt's life and reduce ground clearance. It's an un-needed gimick. I just adjusted my belt tension and centeredthe belt today on my 2008 GS SE5. It's easy but you do need two large Cresent type wrenches and a floor jack to lift the rear wheel off the ground. What you do is loosen the rear axle's nut. No need to remove the cotter key. Loosen the two Allen type screws that are used to tighten the belt pulling the axle to the rear. With something like a piece of Celeron or wood hit the loosened axle on each end so that it moves forward. This will completely loosen the belt. Then begin tightening the the two socket head screws used to pull the axle back while rotating the back wheel once in a while. When the belt becomes a bit snug you will have to check if it is riding on the center of the rear sprocket. If it is running to the outside of the rear sprocket you have to begin to tighten the right tension adjusting screw more than the left screw. If the belt is rubbing against the sprocket's flange you have to tighten the left adjusting screw a little more that the right one. Once the belt is running more or less in the center of the rear sprocket you have to tighten the rear axle's nut but not all the way tight. Then tighten each belt tightening screw exactly the same amount until you get the belt tension you want. Then you should tighten up the rear axle's nut securely. Getting the belt to run in the center of the rear sprocket is by trail and error as is getting the correct tension on the belt. With the rear wheel lifted off the ground the belt will be slightly less taught than when you lower the rear wheel on to the ground. The whole proceedure takes about one hour. Tightening and centering the belt is the correct way. Using that spring loaded belt tensioner does not tighten the belt sufficiently nor will it have the effect of centering the belt on the rear sprocket. You also will never know how much tension the belt has. Replacing that belt is NOT a $20.00 expense. Backing up with that spring loaded devise installed will play havoc on the belt.

You wrote:
Has someone come up with the solution to Spyder belt tension? There is a Rotary belt tensioner on eBay for $295 that looks like it could be the answer for too tight/loose belts and the bearing problems associated with same. Add states it is adjustable up to 40 lbs tension. Simple 2 bolt installation don't want to be the first, but sure looks intertesting.[/QUOTE]

With all due respect, I must disagree with your opinion that this will cause any belt damage or other problems. You simply are not putting enough upward pressure on such a long belt to cause wear.

No one is saying this should be used INSTEAD of correct belt tensioning and centering, it is merely an addition to reduce belt 'wobble' that cannot be addressed no matter how you tension or center the belt. Changing the tension at the rear will only move the 'belt wobble' up or down the RPM range.

This is a heavy-duty, well built unit and while it may not be worth $275 for some to have a smoother ride (and reduce vibrations on various Spyder parts) --- it's well worth it to me. Addressing this very problem just might save your fenders from cracking off as many of us have had.

Your belt-adjustment procedure is correct and how I've done mine also.:thumbup:

[capt.jim]

Come on fellows, you don't need that ball bearing belt tighener. Besides its cost, it will shorten the belt's life and reduce ground clearance. It's an un-needed gimick. I just adjusted my belt tension and centeredthe belt today on my 2008 GS SE5. It's easy but you do need two large Cresent type wrenches and a floor jack to lift the rear wheel off the ground. What you do is loosen the rear axle's nut. No need to remove the cotter key. Loosen the two Allen type screws that are used to tighten the belt pulling the axle to the rear. With something like a piece of Celeron or wood hit the loosened axle on each end so that it moves forward. This will completely loosen the belt. Then begin tightening the the two socket head screws used to pull the axle back while rotating the back wheel once in a while. When the belt becomes a bit snug you will have to check if it is riding on the center of the rear sprocket. If it is running to the outside of the rear sprocket you have to begin to tighten the right tension adjusting screw more than the left screw. If the belt is rubbing against the sprocket's flange you have to tighten the left adjusting screw a little more that the right one. Once the belt is running more or less in the center of the rear sprocket you have to tighten the rear axle's nut but not all the way tight. Then tighten each belt tightening screw exactly the same amount until you get the belt tension you want. Then you should tighten up the rear axle's nut securely. Getting the belt to run in the center of the rear sprocket is by trail and error as is getting the correct tension on the belt. With the rear wheel lifted off the ground the belt will be slightly less taught than when you lower the rear wheel on to the ground. The whole proceedure takes about one hour. Tightening and centering the belt is the correct way. Using that spring loaded belt tensioner does not tighten the belt sufficiently nor will it have the effect of centering the belt on the rear sprocket. You also will never know how much tension the belt has. Replacing that belt is NOT a $20.00 expense. Backing up with that spring loaded devise installed will play havoc on the belt.

You wrote:
Has someone come up with the solution to Spyder belt tension? There is a Rotary belt tensioner on eBay for $295 that looks like it could be the answer for too tight/loose belts and the bearing problems associated with same. Add states it is adjustable up to 40 lbs tension. Simple 2 bolt installation don't want to be the first, but sure looks intertesting.[/QUOTE]glad it's working well for those that have tried it, Arthur, most of the cars today use a serpintine belt system with a spring loaded tensioner, the belt will have plenty of backbends going around different pulleys,with a lot of pressure, you need a bar to move the tensioner to change a belt, most belts will last at least a 100,000 miles, yes, you will lose a little ground clearance, but this is not an atv, it's a roadster, it's not made to be driven off of curbs etc. The turbo looks like you may lose a little also, but it is what it is.

[Spanky]

Here is a link that should dispell any myths about back bends.


http://www.gates.com/file_save_common.cfm?thispath=Gates%2Fdocuments_mo dule&file=MTZ.pdf

[kcmess]

Hi Captin Jim
I thought I would jump in to let everyone know that I have tested your tensioner from California Mo. to Weatherford Texas and back. It took me a little longer to install than most, one hour, but I felt it had to be perfect since we where going that far. It did exactly what you said it would, our 2009 RS was totally smooth I am pleased. As far as price goes, I told Captin Jim I would have paid more for this, because my vibration was unbelievable and the shop said they had no way to fix it. So with the vibration fixed the the trip was going great, then when we got to Texas I was looking over the bike and discovered the inside of the right front tire was worn slick, keep in mind these tires were like new they had about 600 miles on them. I found a tire shop and rotated the tires to get home, then 100 miles from home the DPS went out and started locking up the steering in the center, it would pull left and then lockup tight until I slowed down and it would pop loose. We could only run about 35 to 40 MPH the rest of the way home. Before we left on your trip I asked the shop about the DPS recall and they told me not to park it and go and ride it, since they did not have the parts and would not have the parts for some time yet. This is the second DPS on our bike in nine months, the first one never worked at all so we had no idea what could happen. I have read the posts that others had wrote so as it was happening I remember what they said it did, with these problems being this bad I think the shop should have told me to park it and I would have. Sorry to bore you all with this, but it seems like I fix one thing and there is always something else to deal with.