Vibration

[SpyderDon]

I have a vibration, especially between about 4800-5200 RPM, like going over a bridge grate. Can feel it in the pegs and handlebars. Has anyone else experienced this?

[clueless]

yes only when accelerating in 5th gear

[SteveO]

Yes I have it too.

I like your analogy to driving over a grate that exactly describes it. Did a search on vibration and it sounds like a belt issue, sure feels like one.

I have had since new and the only way to mitigate is to change the revs.

Now have 5,000 miles.

Booked into dealer for this Friday.

Steve

[frank3]

I am sure it's the belt. I have the same vibration and it's always been there at higher speed and seems to change depending on pull of engine. I can relax the throtle and sometimes it will go away or increase the throtle and it will go away. Dosn't seem to matter which gear you're in. I've had it anywhere from 65 to 85. Don't go over 85 very often unless passing. Got over 8500 miles on this machine and the vibration is still there in spite of dealer telling me he checked it. Every time my RT is in for anything, I ask the dealer to check the belt tension. I'm seen the new procedure which is dependent on a vibration meter and I'm not at all sure my dealer has one. I've been tempted to purchase one and set it myself. Anyway,,,,,,,,,,,GOOD LUCK.

[widowmaker2011]

I have a vibration, especially between about 4800-5200 RPM, like going over a bridge grate. Can feel it in the pegs and handlebars. Has anyone else experienced this?

Here is the fix guys- surprised its not in bulletin form...


My Black RTS did the same thing- My wifes did not. At last oil change Dealer called BRP after checking belt tension etc. , they said there had been some reports of the engine isolation strut (The one they added to the RT and now will be on the 2011 RS also) hitting the frame under certain torque situations. They directed my dealer where to look and sure enough the paint was worn off on the strut and the frame. They were instructed to grind a small amount of metal away to increase the clearance. now? Smooth as silk. This strut was not on the original Spyders and was added to quell engine vibration transmitted to the driver. Works great but if the metal strut (That is isolating and ansorbing all the motor vibration) rubs the frame , you will get that sensation. I thought it was a belt tension issue. Fixed it 110% :2thumbs:

[frank3]

That's so simple. Wish my dealer would bother to call BRP once & a while. Did they repaint the frame member after the grinding? I'm printing this off and will show the dealer during my next visit.

[NancysToy]

Here is the fix guys- surprised its not in bulletin form...


My Black RTS did the same thing- My wifes did not. At last oil change Dealer called BRP after checking belt tension etc. , they said there had been some reports of the engine isolation strut (The one they added to the RT and now will be on the 2011 RS also) hitting the frame under certain torque situations. They directed my dealer where to look and sure enough the paint was worn off on the strut and the frame. They were instructed to grind a small amount of metal away to increase the clearance. now? Smooth as silk. This strut was not on the original Spyders and was added to quell engine vibration transmitted to the driver. Works great but if the metal strut (That is isolating and ansorbing all the motor vibration) rubs the frame , you will get that sensation. I thought it was a belt tension issue. Fixed it 110% :2thumbs:
Interesting! Most RTs I have ridden had this vibration. next time I have my panels off, I will take a look. Thanks for the tip.

[SteveO]

Thanks for the info.

Hearing this makes sense as the vibration is like beating on the frame.
I will have the dealer look when I take it in this Friday.

Steve

[Lamonster]

Here is the fix guys- surprised its not in bulletin form...


My Black RTS did the same thing- My wifes did not. At last oil change Dealer called BRP after checking belt tension etc. , they said there had been some reports of the engine isolation strut (The one they added to the RT and now will be on the 2011 RS also) hitting the frame under certain torque situations. They directed my dealer where to look and sure enough the paint was worn off on the strut and the frame. They were instructed to grind a small amount of metal away to increase the clearance. now? Smooth as silk. This strut was not on the original Spyders and was added to quell engine vibration transmitted to the driver. Works great but if the metal strut (That is isolating and ansorbing all the motor vibration) rubs the frame , you will get that sensation. I thought it was a belt tension issue. Fixed it 110% :2thumbs:
My guess is it's not doing it on all of the RT's and that's why there isn't a bulletin on it yet. That's good to know though, next time I have my panels off I'll take a look at that.

[dave01]

Can someone give me an idea where this is supposed to be? My spyder is in pieces and there's no better time than now to check. Thanks

[Lamonster]

Can someone give me an idea where this is supposed to be? My spyder is in pieces and there's no better time than now to check. Thanks
Should look like this.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=494&pictureid=12081
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1035&pictureid=11870

[clueless]

thanks! add it to the list of things for next svc visit ...

[widowmaker2011]

My guess is it's not doing it on all of the RT's and that's why there isn't a bulletin on it yet. That's good to know though, next time I have my panels off I'll take a look at that.

Ive ridden 3 that do , Carols Blue RTS was the only one that didn't. Since my repair the dealer fixed their demo (said it was worse than mine). Good point on the touchup paint , I didn't ask but looked with the panel off and sure enough theres a fresh black spot where they ground it. Thats quality. I Love Pioneer Motorsport. :2thumbs:

[widowmaker2011]

Interesting! Most RTs I have ridden had this vibration. next time I have my panels off, I will take a look. Thanks for the tip.
truthfully , Carols was the first I rode without the vibration , otherwise I would have assumed it was a normal characteristic. Once its gone you go WOW!!!

[rineer4635]

truthfully , Carols was the first I rode without the vibration , otherwise I would have assumed it was a normal characteristic. Once its gone you go WOW!!!
I have been messing with my wheel weights and thought it was the Ride On that I put the tires. My local dealer adjusted belt and said all was ok.It still vibrates mostly between 41 and 55 mph. I am wondering now if this is what I have....

[widowmaker2011]

I have been messing with my wheel weights and thought it was the Ride On that I put the tires. My local dealer adjusted belt and said all was ok.It still vibrates mostly between 41 and 55 mph. I am wondering now if this is what I have....

Well , let me define the nature of this vibration. It really cannot be confused with a wheel weight issue. This vibration feels like there is almost something grinding or grating metal to metal and you feel it as a buzz in the bars and feet. like the motor is not mounted with rubber mounts but mounted with steel bolts right to your butt. :gaah:
A wheel weight (balance ) problem will present itself as an oscillating feeling in your seat(rear tire) or bars (front tires) that gets progressively faster with MPH and is not related to engine rpm (pull in the clutch and chop the throttle and the vibration remains as long as your speed stays up). The vibration i am speaking of is at a much higher frequency than a wheel balance issue and is noticeable in a couple thousand RPM range between 4500 and 5500 rpm give or take a few hundred and is somewhat more noticable in the upper gears

[rineer4635]

Well , let me define the nature of this vibration. It really cannot be confused with a wheel weight issue. This vibration feels like there is almost something grinding or grating metal to metal and you feel it as a buzz in the bars and feet. like the motor is not mounted with rubber mounts but mounted with steel bolts right to your butt. :gaah:
A wheel weight (balance ) problem will present itself as an oscillating feeling in your seat(rear tire) or bars (front tires) that gets progressively faster with MPH and is not related to engine rpm (pull in the clutch and chop the throttle and the vibration remains as long as your speed stays up). The vibration i am speaking of is at a much higher frequency than a wheel balance issue and is noticeable in a couple thousand RPM range between 4500 and 5500 rpm give or take a few hundred and is somewhat more noticable in the upper gears Thanks for this explanation, this is not what I feel.:2thumbs:

[SpyderDon]

Thanks everyone. I sent a copy of this page to my dealer requesting that he have the mechanic talke a look see. Maybe the problem will be solved tomorrow. I'll keep you informed.

Don

[widowmaker2011]

Thanks everyone. I sent a copy of this page to my dealer requesting that he have the mechanic talke a look see. Maybe the problem will be solved tomorrow. I'll keep you informed.

Don

Without seeing it , I cannot say for sure , but your description fits it to a tee. :pray:

[poolratt]

I have this vibration also but I feel it primarily in the footpegs. Is this where you guys are feeling it also?

[SpyderDon]

Belt tightened, wheel aligned.

Thought it was okay when I left the shop. This was after I waited over 2 hours. I drove 75 miles each way to get there, past another CAN-AM dealer, that's another story. I have no heart burn with the folks in the shop they are a good enough group. I've got a GPS ordered and unfortunately they are on back order until who knows when. When I go back for the installation this has got to be readdressed. Got down the road and it started again, not as bad but the vibration is still there. It just dosen't like 5000 RPM. This is a PITA issue and needs to be addressed. They don't give these bikes away and for a nuisance complaint to go unaddressed is unaceptable. I don't think the bike will suffer from the problem but it is annoying and distracting.

Maybe a head count of people with the problem should be taken and BRP made aware of it.

Thanks for providing me a place to vent, Don

[zztop69]

Would like to check this myself,which side is the support on ,what tupperware has to come off? thanks

[clueless]

My guess is it's not doing it on all of the RT's and that's why there isn't a bulletin on it yet. That's good to know though, next time I have my panels off I'll take a look at that.

dealer said that BRP said that is a super small qty of spyders that have this issue. that the vibration is normal.

[crtravelnmore]

I have this vibration also but I feel it primarily in the footpegs. Is this where you guys are feeling it also?

Yes, that's were mine is around 5-5.5k rpm. The dealer I had the 600mi check up at said it's normal and all :f_spider: do it. I knew he was full of :gaah: because I've rode 4 of them and they don't vibrate. I'm taking it back to the dealer I bought it from to get it fixed.

[clueless]

can someone post pictures of EXACTLY where they had the issue (where it was sanded down) please?

just so i know where to look for the issue if i have it the problem or not...:helpsmilie:

[Coolbreeze]

Yup, I've got the same vibration. Thought it was the belt even though it was properly tensioned. Thanks for the info.

[Eraser]

can someone post pictures of EXACTLY where they had the issue (where it was sanded down) please?

just so i know where to look for the issue if i have it the problem or not...:helpsmilie:
I'm not sure if the vibration I feel is engine related or what is being discussed here.Once I pass the 5 grand mark(+or_) it disappears.I'm in for service next,I'll pass this info on.

[punji]

5200 RPM 5th gear. Every ride... feels vaguely like the Rotax beginning to lug but to a far lesser degree. Faster or slower it goes away.

[SteveO]

Had the Spyder serviced and DPS replaced Friday. Took along a copy of this thread. After calling BRP the dealer adjusted the stabilizer rod and the vibration which I have had from new (some 3000m) has gone. They could see no signs of cantact between the bar and frame.

SteveO

[SpyderDon]

:2thumbs: Glad to hear that SteveO. My dealer is supposedly checking into it also. Hopefully they will be able to solve this once and for all. Still really loven it.

[manoman14]

The bolt on the short cross linkage rod is rubbing heavily on mine. Will have the dealer look at it when they replace the DPS. There is metal dust on the parts around the bolt that is rubbing. You can see the dust to the left of the oil cooler.

[widowmaker2011]

Had the Spyder serviced and DPS replaced Friday. Took along a copy of this thread. After calling BRP the dealer adjusted the stabilizer rod and the vibration which I have had from new (some 3000m) has gone. They could see no signs of cantact between the bar and frame.

SteveO

:2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs::2thumbs: Glad I could help!!!!

[clueless]

dropped off spyder and was told that it MAYBE chargeable to check if they cant find anything covered by warranty. hmmm

I said to call BRP and see if they will cover diagnosis as it is not normal. they are saying all the vehicles are doing it :gaah:
and it IS normal.

at 5k RPMS exactly in 5th gear you can feel it every time.... like the engine is running rough

[SpyderDon]

I don't have to look to see what rpm I'm at when going through the gears, when it hits around 5000 I feel it. I understand that it's not happy at low revs but at 5000 it should be in it's sweet spot.

Nothing back from the dealer yet and I'm in no big hurry to rush back, it's 75 miles each way, waiting on the GPS which is backordered too, hopefully we'll be able to get both done at the same time.

Even with the PITA problem it still puts a smile on my face every time I ride it.

[Questions]

I have a vibration around 55 to 65 MPH and going up hill, Where is the engine isolation strut located and how can i locate it or should i say what body parts to take off to locate it.
THANKS
GUT1959:agree:

[rineer4635]

600 miles to Tennessee Wednesday, to Lamonsters Thursday and 600 back today, I have it too at 5200 RPM.

[NancysToy]

600 miles to Tennessee Wednesday, to Lamonsters Thursday and 600 back today, I have it too at 5200 RPM.
Sounds familiar...both the trip and the 5K vibration.

[D&J's#2]

Rode up to Rapid City, South Dakota earlier this month on our 2009 Spyder RS:doorag: and saw Mt. Rushmore, Sturgis, Deadwood, Custer Nat. Park, etc...,in a Rental Car:yikes:. I noticed an oil leak upon our arrival and it turned out to be that the drive shaft was bent due to the extreme tension on the drive belt (Manuf.spec.s) was just a bit too much, which caused the bending of the shaft. I had the oil changed and the tech. loosened the tension on the belt before we left Arkansas for SD, and he informed me that he had just came from a class in Atlanta and that BRP was aware of the problem and he corrected the tension. So, back to SD, there was a CAN AM dealer in Rapid City and got us back on the road after replacing cylinders, rings, crankcase ass'y, etc...and we are greatful for that.:bowdown::2thumbs:
It was after we were back and had rode about 75mi. that I noticed a vibration starting that was similar to what I felt when the drive shaft was going. It was like someone else said, like riding over a washboard. I took it for a test drive and after, 7mi or so, I felt the vibration in the handlebars and the foot pegs, it was not noticable at lower speeds (below 55-60), rpm's didn't seem to matter. I'm taking my Spyder into the dealer in the am for a diagnosis, he mentioned something about the rear wheel bearings needing to be replaced @ 10,000mi., something else new:gaah:.
Don't ge me wrong we're still a crazy about our SPYDER, but:yikes::pray::gaah::pray:

[rineer4635]

Sounds familiar...both the trip and the 5K vibration.
Yes, wanted to meet you there but was busy trying to win a door prize : ):2thumbs:

[SC92]

I have been feeling this vibration for 12000 K's and thought that it was a Characteristic of the Rotax.

When I read this thread I decided to have a look.

The nut(#52 in Lamonsters post #11) was hard up against the frame support web that can be seen just under the words "Engine Support" in the colored picture in the same post.

I removed the bolt and could see where the frame web was rubbing against the nut. There was a 2mm deep groove worn into the nut.
I ground the support web with a 4" angle grinder to give ample clearance, and put it all back together. All up about 4 hours work as it was a bit of an exploration.

Test ride and WOW a totally different machine, well worth the effort.

I can see why some dealers are hesitant to look for this fix as it is not easy to get at.

Certainly, I would advise anyone that was having the DPS changed, to make sure their dealer looks at this as it will only take a few extra minutes whilst they are in that deep.

Regard
Bob

[clueless]

did you take additional pics? good to know

[SteveO]

Having had the vibration from new the dealer adjusted the stabilizer bar and the vibration has mostly gone. There is still a little left which confims to me that it is the bar.

I now find I have more idle vibration at start-up so guess there must be a "happy" point in the adjustment.

I need to get under the tupperware to see if there is or has been any contact between the bar and the frame.

So far a huge improvement

[SC92]

did you take additional pics? good to know

No unfortunately, I didn't think about i until I had finished the job and by that time it is almost impossible to get a good look at the area, let alone take a pic. Sorry :dontknow:

[SC92]

I need to get under the tupperware to see if there is or has been any contact between the bar and the frame.

So far a huge improvement

It will most likely be the bolt or nut that holds the bar to the engine mount, touching the frame bracket support web. (see nut #52 on the exploded view in Lamonsters post #11 in this thread)

[Jornie1]

While having my DPS replaced 2 days ago, I had the tech take a look at the vibration dampening rod checking for any point of contact. He adjusted, (losened), my long...front to rear... damper rod and the vibration was reduced considerably but not completely eliminated...He did make a very plausible point. One end of the rods are attached to the engine, the other end to a point on the frame. There is no rubberized damper associated with the rod ends, so.... you already have engine to frame contact with the dampening rods, basically a metal to metal contact. Why would any other point of contact cause vibration. Makes sense to me, with one exception.... If giving the bolts or rods touching the frame some relief stops the vibration..Voila'...problem solved..

Len

Note: The tech didn't look at bolt #52 only the arms.

[InspectorGadget]

While having my DPS replaced 2 days ago, I had the tech take a look at the vibration dampening rod checking for any point of contact. He adjusted, (losened), my long...front to rear... damper rod and the vibration was reduced considerably but not completely eliminated...He did make a very plausible point. One end of the rods are attached to the engine, the other end to a point on the frame. There is no rubberized damper associated with the rod ends, so.... you already have engine to frame contact with the dampening rods, basically a metal to metal contact. Why would any other point of contact cause vibration. Makes sense to me, with one exception.... If giving the bolts or rods touching the frame some relief stops the vibration..Voila'...problem solved..

Len

Note: The tech didn't look at bolt #52 only the arms.
Len,
Thanks for the additioanl info. I should be taking my RT in right after the Daytona Biktoberfest weekend and I will have my tech check it out.
Glad to see you made it back home safely. Best to Kim.
C-YA RL

[manoman14]

The bolt on the short dampener on mine is rubbing the frame so hard that there is an orangish dust on all nearby parts. Don't see how a technition could possibly dismiss this and say that this is not causing vibration to be present.

[SC92]

One end of the rods are attached to the engine, the other end to a point on the frame. There is no rubberized damper associated with the rod ends, so.... you already have engine to frame contact with the dampening rods, basically a metal to metal contact. Why would any other point of contact cause vibration.

Note: The tech didn't look at bolt #52 only the arms.

I, once again refer you back to post #11 by Lamonster, in this thread.

If you look at the dark blue section below the rods you will see it is a rubber mount.
If there was no rubber mount, then the rods would be serving no purpose.

I would worry about your tech, considering he was working in there and did not understand how it works and could not see rubber.

[SC92]

Should look like this.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=494&pictureid=12081
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1035&pictureid=11870

Check out the Schematic and you will see the dark blue rubber engine mount and you will also notice that the two purple rods are fastened to the turquoise engine bracket on one end and the grey bike frame on the other.

It is the nut (#52)on the bolt that hold the short rod to the turquoise plate that is rubbing on the grey frame that is causing this vibration.

[spyryder]

Check out the Schematic and you will see the dark blue rubber engine mount and you will also notice that the two purple rods are fastened to the turquoise engine bracket on one end and the grey bike frame on the other.

It is the nut (#52)on the bolt that hold the short rod to the turquoise plate that is rubbing on the grey frame that is causing this vibration.
I believe what Jornie is talking about are those rods being bolted from the engine bracket to the frame without any isolation? That looks like metal to metal contact to me through the rods if those are Heim joints? Or do those 'rod ends' have rubber bushings in them similar to shock absorbers?....if that's the case, then they would be 'isolated'.:f_spider:

[SC92]

I believe what Jornie is talking about are those rods being bolted from the engine bracket to the frame without any isolation? That looks like metal to metal contact to me through the rods if those are Heim joints? Or do those 'rod ends' have rubber bushings in them similar to shock absorbers?....if that's the case, then they would be 'isolated'.:f_spider:


The Rods are isolated because one end is bolted to the Frame, the other end is bolted to the engine and the isolation is the rubber mount between the Frame and the engine.

[spyryder]

The Rods are isolated because one end is bolted to the Frame, the other end is bolted to the engine and the isolation is the rubber mount between the Frame and the engine.

If the rods DON'T have rubber or neoprene bushings as shown in this pic, then it's METAL to METAL:

[SpyderFun]

Had the Spyder serviced and DPS replaced Friday. Took along a copy of this thread. After calling BRP the dealer adjusted the stabilizer rod and the vibration which I have had from new (some 3000m) has gone. They could see no signs of cantact between the bar and frame.

SteveO

Do you know HOW they adjusted it? :shocked:
Did they have to make it longer or shorter? :dontknow:

This may just be an easy fix for others to do versus scheduling a dealer visit.

[sinkhole]

Do you know HOW they adjusted it? :shocked:
Did they have to make it longer or shorter? :dontknow:

This may just be an easy fix for others to do versus scheduling a dealer visit.
Just my take:
From the diagram it appears as if the engine mounts/pivots on the rear bolt (part # 31) and mounts in front to plate #35, which is in turn isolated from the frame on rubber pads.
The stabilizer bars apparently are there only to keep the front mount from moving side to side, and fore and aft. I don't know how much adjustment would be possible because the rear mounting bolt should only allow up and down rotational movement.
It would seem as if once the engine is attached in the rear, and mounted to the front plate, that's where it stays, and the bars are adjusted accordingly. If either bar is close to the frame, the knocking would occur when the rubber cushions under the front engine plate compress and rebound, allowing the bar/s to hit a frame member.

[bruiser]

Yep, that's what mine is doing too. Feel it in the pegs, seat and bars. Talked to my dealer about it several times, standard answer, BRP says that's normal. Guess what I'm going to print out and add to the now growing list for them to check.:gaah::mad:

[StriperKing]

I just bought an RT-S and have this exact vibration. I am going to look at it and hopefully fix it tomorrow. I very seldom ever take anything to a dealer. They dont care about your bike like you do. :dontknow: I will post if this fixes or does not fix the problem. Great post.

Oh and to clear the air and some of the post have it correct. The dampener rod does not have to have rubber bushings and can be metal to metal as long as the plate they bolt to has a rubber pad for isolation. If no rubber pad then yes there would have to be rubber bushings but we do have the rubber pad. I work for Toyota Motor Mfg. and they use the same consept in areas that require it. A rubber pad is the way to go! More area = more dampening making the pad the better choice over bushings.

[Hobstopper]

Once again kudos to the Spyder community! I took off the front compartment and then the shroud in front of the radiator, shined a flashlight in and low and behold found that the nut on the short linkage rod was against the metal bracket. It had rubbed so much that the bracket had a V shape from the nut.:gaah: Took a dremel and shaved it down, put everything back together and took for a test ride. It is finally smooth with no more vibration.:ohyea:
Thanks again!

[clueless]

good to know! thanks everyone for sharing their experience. just builds more credence when bringing in to shop for fix. :thumbup:

[SpyderDon]

Well my :spyder2: went to the dealer last week, 3000 mile oil change, dps, gps and vibration elimination. 75 mile trip this time of year inn't real pleasent, even in good ole Tidewater VA. On the ride back I noticed a difference but not total elimination of the vibration. Was told there is a service bullitin covering the vibration problem. At this point I think I would miss it if it went away completely, knowing that it isn't something that will damage the machine I think I can tolerate it.

As for dps, I noticed no change, hopefully that's a good thing.

Thanks to everyone that had input into this thread, seems that BRP got the message.

[sinkhole]

If your lateral stabilizer bar is no longer hitting the frame, then the remaining vibratins are more than likely due to engine/belt harmonics. Seems as if it's the nature of the "beast".:spyder:

[t64507]

has anyone had this trouble on a 2011 rts :chat:

[Fire911]

"My 2011 RSS SE5 feels like it is grinding rocks at 5500 rpm, all gears. There is also a cyclical vibration felt in the left foot peg. What is it? How do I get rid of it. I have about 2500 miles on it and like to ride aggressively."


Posted the above previously and didn't get a good answer....further searching brought me to this thread. I am not very mechanically inclined, so I hope my dealer doesn't give me a hard time when I tell him to look into the solution presented here.

[GeoffCee]

"My 2011 RSS SE5 feels like it is grinding rocks at 5500 rpm, all gears. There is also a cyclical vibration felt in the left foot peg. What is it? How do I get rid of it. I have about 2500 miles on it and like to ride aggressively."


Posted the above previously and didn't get a good answer....further searching brought me to this thread. I am not very mechanically inclined, so I hope my dealer doesn't give me a hard time when I tell him to look into the solution presented here.

One source of vibration has been investigated and its cause and a solution found. Try the info in the following link:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23781&highlight=frame+vibration

[Tonga]

I got rid of my vibration with the drive belt tensioner, smoothens my RT right out! The drive belt tension has been reduced in 2010 so with such a long belt the bottom slackens up under load and it seems to want to jump the rear sproket. The tensioner takes care of that. Thanks Capt Jim?

[Campverdefela]

I got rid of my vibration with the drive belt tensioner, smoothens my RT right out! The drive belt tension has been reduced in 2010 so with such a long belt the bottom slackens up under load and it seems to want to jump the rear sproket. The tensioner takes care of that. Thanks Capt Jim?
I agree that this is a viable solution for a lot of people, no problem with mine, but I think a good first step is to check front tire balance first.