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View Full Version : Trip end in near desaster



frank3
06-08-2010, 07:19 AM
Rode my RT to Boulder, CO last Friday. While there, I thought it might be nice to take a day trip to Estes Park. After leaving my brothers home and driving about 5 mile, I noticed a slight exhaust noise that I thought might be a leak. Went back to brothers and called the local Can-Am dealer. Told to bring it down and they would look at it. They looked it over and said it was OK and heat along my left ankle was normal. No trip to Estes. Finished visit with my brother and played some golf on Sunday. Got up early Monday and started back home (St. Joseph, MO). Got 350 mile back and exhaust got VERY loud suddenly. Stoped and couldn't find leak and rode another 50 miles and noticed excess heat comming from left side and up through left side of seat. Knowing that the gas tank was close to heat source, pulled over and called brother in law at home location to come get me and RT. Trailered RT home and will take to KC, MO dealer this week for fix. I'll keep everyone updated as repairs are made. Don't know much about the "Y" gasket problems with RS and don't know where "Y" joint is located. This maybe a "Y" gasket or something else.

taggtr
06-08-2010, 08:18 AM
Yikes! Definitely inform us on what they find! Bummer you didn't get to Estes. I use to live in Vail, CO and made the drive to Estes at least once per month! Beautiful drive up there! I like Boulder too. I've performed in the Boulder Theater before. Great venue!

canam9
06-08-2010, 04:32 PM
Keep us posted!:chat:

frank3
06-10-2010, 07:19 AM
My dealer (Advantage Powersports) in K.C. found my exhaust leak. Broken weld on exhaust pipe directly above drive belt pulley. I'd attach a picture but I don't know how. Will e-mail picture to Lamont and maybe he can forward it so everyone can view it. Very scarry location. I think the gas tank is directly above this but had some sort of heat shield (I hope).

Lamonster
06-10-2010, 08:49 AM
I'd attach a picture but I don't know how.

How to videos on using this board (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8044) :doorag:

Lamonster
06-10-2010, 08:54 AM
:yikes:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=494&pictureid=10249

Wheeler~
06-10-2010, 09:00 AM
So is that something they just re-weld or will BRP actually replace the pipe? Never seen anything like that before!

Lamonster
06-10-2010, 09:13 AM
So is that something they just re-weld or will BRP actually replace the pipe? Never seen anything like that before!
They would replace that. Looks like a little too much heat while welding. :shocked:

retired1
06-10-2010, 09:49 AM
Is that dual walled pipe?

frank3
06-10-2010, 10:19 AM
Lamont, thanks so much for the assistance with posting the picture. The dealer has ordered a new pipe/manifold. I e-mailed him back and asked that he carefully inspect the (what looks like) radiator hose to see if it got cooked.

krb1945
06-10-2010, 10:48 AM
Check your drive belt too. There were some mighty tall temperatures coming out that break. I see some discoloration on the corner of the gas tank... there may be some damage to the sealant between the halfs of the tank. Ken krb1945

pitbull
06-15-2010, 11:30 AM
Wow haven't saw that before!

Buelldog
06-15-2010, 12:39 PM
They would replace that. Looks like a little too much heat while welding. :shocked:

I agree with Lamont......looks like weld embrittlement from excessive heat parameters.Can't be real sure without actually visually inspecting the weld joint.....could also be slight cold lap (incomplte fusion) on the clean edge of the pipe in the picture...(the side without the weld bead).Whatever..... the weld procedures for this weld joint were faulty!!These exhaust pipe welds are done most often by a small robot and or semi-automatically in a jig and involve a number of parameters being kept in pre-qualified setting.It might be a good idea :thumbup: for others to keep an eye on this weld joint, just in case there are other failures!

widowmaker2011
06-15-2010, 07:29 PM
I agree with Lamont......looks like weld embrittlement from excessive heat parameters.Can't be real sure without actually visually inspecting the weld joint.....could also be slight cold lap (incomplte fusion) on the clean edge of the pipe in the picture...(the side without the weld bead).Whatever..... the weld procedures for this weld joint were faulty!!These exhaust pipe welds are done most often by a small robot and or semi-automatically in a jig and involve a number of parameters being kept in pre-qualified setting.It might be a good idea :thumbup: for others to keep an eye on this weld joint, just in case there are other failures!

PE 0027 is down and out with the same issue , It split wide open at that seam at 540 miles. :(
Part was available from BRP and not on back order and it will be replaced this Friday while they do a) fuel guage repair b) rear shock replacement and c) audio repair to fix radio shutting off on a bumpy road.

A close examination did not show a terribly weak weld IMHO, there was no discoloration etc. I have a long lengthy theory on this but my quick take is a weld joint is a probable problem area on part of any pipe. Now , we also know extreme measures were taken to reduce and isolate NVH (noise vibration harshness) on the RT. A quick physics lesson would show us that vibration can be moved or relocated it cant magically disappear. When you smooth out the handlebars and seat and footpegs , you are asking the vibrations to be "absorbed" elsewhere" I have vast experience in NVH with a large manufacturer and know this area well. That being said , there are components that are now subject to forces that perhaps they weren't designed for. (We aren't talking nuclear explosions here but vibration can take its toll). Anyways , I certainly don't feel this is anything that can't be fixed by either a reinforced joint or better welding techniques but its just my 2 cents) :spyder:

Lamonster
06-15-2010, 07:39 PM
Could be that the weld joint was too hot and it could be the die they are using to swedge the pipe is causing a fracture point. Looks to me that the weld is stopped right where the pipe makes it's transition at the smallest diameter. It should be more on the OD of the big part of the pipe.

widowmaker2011
06-15-2010, 07:48 PM
Could be that the weld joint was too hot and it could be the die they are using to swedge the pipe is causing a fracture point. Looks to me that the weld is stopped right where the pipe makes it's transition at the smallest diameter. It should be more on the OD of the big part of the pipe.

I just looked and agree- under normal circumstances it probably would be fine , but I still think the additional vibrations some components are being asked to absorb is a contributing factor , plus we got a big old cat convertor hanging on the other end.... thus my suggestion that that area possibly needs reinforcing. :2thumbs: Headed south to Asheville in ten days , as long as we are set by then , I really could care less...:yes:

frank3
06-21-2010, 06:59 AM
Had a chance to have a close look at broken weld on the exhaust pipe. The break at the weld is where a double wall section of pipe from the front head welds to a single wall section of pipe. I'm not a welder but do know welding differing wall thickness pipe together can be tricky. Probably the cause of the break.

drhinckley
07-30-2011, 04:34 PM
I did this quick fix so I can still ride while the dealer gets the replacement pipe in. More details on the link below.

29222

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?25407-Exhaust-pipe-crack&p=356438#post356438 (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?25407-Exhaust-pipe-crack&p=356438#post356438)