Missing Air Dam Experience

[Odie]

I installed the Missing Air Dam I ordered and I had the exact opposite experience that everyone else is having. I live in Arizona and spent all afternoon installing Highway Brackets from Kewl Metal and installed the Missing Air Dam while I had all the panels off. I finished everything around 8pm and took it for a spin. Keep in mind that it is 80 degrees at this time, not 110. I got on the Interstate and ran about 80mph and I stayed at four bars. During the day in 100 heat, without the MAD, I can get down to three. Then I exited the Interstate and was held up at a stop light for a couple of minutes and I went to 5 bars and stayed at 5. Then the light turned green and I cruised 45mph and it took more than a couple miles to bring it back down to 4 bars. Got home and pulled in the garage and went back up to 5 bars. The fan kicked on and I let it run for a few minutes and I could not get down below 5 bars. During idle, in the middle of the day, in 100 degree heat, my fan will kick on and my temp will go down to 4 bars very quickly. With the DAM it couldn't get below 5. Anyway, that's my experience. I'm glad it's working for everyone else. Leave it to me to be the first one with and adverse experience. :ani29:

[Roger]

I had a simular experience. I rode down the inter-state about 70 mph and the temp was at 3 bars but as soon as you slow down it will go to 4 bars and when you stop 5 bars now if i get back on the highway it will go back down to three bars but it takes a little time. :dontknow:

[boborgera]

I'm trying to understand this, Dead of winter [10f] i run 3 bars, Summer[80/90f] 3 bars, Stopped at a light 4 bars, Long light 4/5 bars, fan turns on at 5 bars.
Any speed over 35 mph 3 bars summer/winter,That's what a properly working thermostat is supposed to do,Keep it at 3 bars at off idle.
Now if i use the Air dam, According to most reports I'll drop 1 to 2 bars if i use the air dam, So in the winter I'll be at 1 bar, summer 2 bars [at off idle]
Can't happen, at lease on mine, The thermostat won't let that happen.
Just my findings, [No new rope please.]

[Dukester]

I'm with you Odie. Put them on and my Spyder is doing exactly like yours. As soon as you stop in traffic 5 bars. Tested them out yesterday again and the temp. on the bike was 93, real temp. 86. Took bike out and checked my fan, it kicked on at 4 bars. Rode for about 1 1/2 and it was at 4 bars most of the time. Maybe that's the best it's going to get. Maybe humidity has a little play in this equation. Oh well gave it a shot and it is what it is. For $25.00 no lose. Safe ryding

[Firefly]

I don't believe the Air Dam unit is meant to help while you're stopped..... only when moving.... that's what the fan is for.

When moving, you should see the temp lower than before---- I see 1 bar lower on average--- but when stopped it's just like before.

[Rando]

From the product website:

"You can expect a lower coolant temperature by a reduction of two bars at speed. This reduction varies depending on your driving habits, ambient temperature and custom tuning."

I believe that BRP now sells an upgraded, more powerful radiator fan.

[BillGargan]

I cannot help but wonder . . .

Is it possible that -- when not moving, the new air dam adds insulation and thereby restricts the ability of the radiator reservoir to lose some of it's heat by natural radiation?

This addition will clearly force air over the radiator fins AT SPEED -- which should have a noticeable reduction in heat retention.

[kman]

I installed the air damn last week and at cruising speed and air temp at 82 deg. and lower I am at 3 bars.82 deg. is as hot as it has been since install,but will go up to 4 or 5 bars at a stop just like it always did.It looks like the real test will come in the next couple of days if it gets near 90 deg.

[Diggittt]

well did the install this morning... stupid simple.... so I took her out for a test ride it is a cool 77 degrees today in Bakersfield and while cruising around town it stayed at 5 bars and while on the highway it dropped down to a cool 4 bars. So far im not impressed it is running 1 bar higher than normal....

Diggittt

[jabba11]

Mine reduced by i would say a bar while moving. i wondered myself about applying foam to the radiator if this would "insulate" it. i havent noticed much of a difference around town. I can see that it may increase the effectiveness of the fan by drawing more air from one side of the radiator and throuh it, but again I havent noticed a difference in town. I have not noticed an increase though as you guys are reporting. At speed above 40 mph noticeable difference. If you ride in town a lot this mod might not be "necessary" for you. If you travel on the highway it makes sense to me and in my opinion it works

[Campverdefela]

I had a simular experience. I rode down the inter-state about 70 mph and the temp was at 3 bars but as soon as you slow down it will go to 4 bars and when you stop 5 bars now if i get back on the highway it will go back down to three bars but it takes a little time. :dontknow:
:agree:I reported two weeks ago the same experience on this forum. I thought I was sooo alooone.

[groundeffect]

Interesting about the isolation and increased (more then normal) heat at a stop.

:popcorn:

[Roger]

Interesting about the isolation and increased (more then normal) heat at a stop.

:popcorn:

I understand it should get warmer when you are stopped but by leaving the dam off, the cool air goes around the radiator and i'am sure this has to help keep the bike cooler also i guess what i'am trying to say is what damage is happening thats a big jump i think to go from 3 bars to five bars in about a minute. also by not having it you ride around on 4 0r 5 bars and don't have that big spike in temperature. Please don't be offended the air dam does do what it says it will do no argument their. And does anybody notice the hot air on their leg from this i really though i burned my leg. :dontknow:

[jabba11]

I understand it should get warmer when you are stopped but by leaving the dam off, the cool air goes around the radiator and i'am sure this has to help keep the bike cooler also i guess what i'am trying to say is what damage is happening thats a big jump i think to go from 3 bars to five bars in about a minute. also by not having it you ride around on 4 0r 5 bars and don't have that big spike in temperature. Please don't be offended the air dam does do what it says it will do no argument their. And does anybody notice the hot air on their leg from this i really though i burned my leg. :dontknow:
I would think you would want the cool air to go through the radiator not around it. the surface area of the fins is much more effective than the side of the thing at cooling. When at a stop the fan pulls the air through it. The dam may prevent cooler air being pulled from the back side of the radiator and force warmer air from in front of the raditor (since that is where the engine is) through casuing warmer temps but that has not been my experience. It seems to me the dam should increase the effientcy of the fan but I couldn't prove that either. Thats really the only way I could see this being the reason for the bike runngin warmer than it normally would by using the dam or because of an insulating effect weve already discussed. As for heat on your foot I still have stock pegs and dont notice any change there. Sometimes for me it depends on which way the wind is blowing. If the wind is blowing right to left as you sit on the bike sometimes the hot air from the cowling seems to "blow" back onto my leg worse than when there is no wind. I have never been burned but if I had floorboards I could see it being a potential issue.

[Roger]

If the air dam was doing what it was designed to do and it does then the fan should not come on at all. Now if i ride without the air dam yes the bike runs warmer but the fan does not kick on because the temp is more consistant. As with if i leave the air dam on yes at high speed more air gets in the radiator and cools it down but when you get in town driving the temp goes back up to 4 or 5 bars then the fan kicks on. So which is better for the bike i really can't say. Maybe remove the air dam and run a switch to the fan or leave the air dam on and still run a switch?

[Lamonster]

FYI- this is the bar temps
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13512

[kman]

Rode home from work yesterday and ambient air temp was 89-91 deg.At cruising speeds had 3 bars showing so I believe the air dam is doing what it was intended to do.As you can see from Lamonsters' post these engines are not running too hot.My concern is not damage to the engine from heat but problems with all the electronics housed inside the tupperware.Imagine the heat build-up on a hot day after riding for awhile then parking in the hot sun.We have had problems with our cnc machine controllers in our shop on real hot days when the boss was too tight to turn the AC on.Several weeks ago after riding in 90 deg. + temps stopped for lunch and when we went to leave the air temp on the Spyder read 101 deg.Started it up went 1 block and the check engine light came on.Pulled over shut Spyder off and scratched my head (wtf).Waited a couple minutes started it back up,no message and been riding error free since.
:dontknow:

[Sarge707]

If the air dam was doing what it was designed to do and it does then the fan should not come on at all. Now if i ride without the air dam yes the bike runs warmer but the fan does not kick on because the temp is more consistant. As with if i leave the air dam on yes at high speed more air gets in the radiator and cools it down but when you get in town driving the temp goes back up to 4 or 5 bars then the fan kicks on. So which is better for the bike i really can't say. Maybe remove the air dam and run a switch to the fan or leave the air dam on and still run a switch?
The faster you go (To a Point) the better the MAD works. So your engine is running cooler on the country roads and highways and thats worth the price of admission to me!!
In town its always going to get hot and the more you sit the hotter it gets.:hun:
To me the key to enjoying every aspect of the Spyder is to AVOID congested routes as much as possible.:D
I,m totally happy with the MAD!!

[Odie]

All the experiences are going to be different. I don't have fancy gauges but I do see the bar indicator. All I can say is that city or highway driving my temperature is more with the MAD. I showed less bars in stop and go, or interstate driving, without the MAD. Less bars mean less hot. I'm not knocking the product. If it's working for you than that is awesome! I live in hot Arizona and I remember someone posting the experience they've had with the MAD in the desert. I think I'm better off without it. Just my honest opinion. :D:ani29:

[Roger]

I'am happy with it. I was just searching other peoples experience with it.

[SpyderWolf]

I honestly don't think the MAD does anything while you are stopped, or even driving slowly. When you are stopped, the Spyder is getting no real air flow through the radiator until it reaches 5 bars and the fan kicks on. At that point it is sucking in the air around the engine, and straight off the heated road surface so the cooling effect is minimal. Once you start moving again, cooler air gets forced through the radiator and the temp bars will eventually drop. Sometimes they drop a lot faster than other times, depending on traffic conditions and such.

As Lamont posted, 5 bars cannot really be considered hot for an engine anyway. :)

As for the heat on your leg and foot, much of that comes from sitting right behind the engine and exhaust pipes. However, I think it was Tom in NM who posted how to use some pipe insulation to block the gap where the hot air can be blown directly onto your foot. This may be another thing to look into for ryding comfort. Another helpful option may also be exhaust wraps.

As with anything your mileage will vary, but here is what I have noticed so far with the MAD installed at highway speeds. 70-89 degrees mine runs at 3 bars, 90-100 it runs at 4 bars. It has gotten close, but has not gone over 100 yet for a test here.

[Tom in NM]

. . . . to consider.

The other day I was riding down this nice road around 50-55mph, temp showing on the dash was in the low 90s. I glance down at the dash and I have 5 bars!?! I don't have the air dam, yet. I speed up and for a minute, it goes to six bars?!!!?, then drops back to five bars.

I turned around and suddenly it drops to three bars. The issue was I was riding with a 35/40 mph wind to my back. The engine was burning fuel and making heat, but there was probably only 10 mph of wind going through the radiator - until I turned around. [ this is not the first time I have noticed we don't have a "duhhhh" Smilie - one would fit here perfectly ]

Living in the high desert (high altitude & temps + low humidity) and riding in the summer, 5 bars can be a fact of life, and as Lamont's gauge shows, 5 bars looks to be just fine.

Tom

[SpyderWolf]

. . . . to consider.

The other day I was riding down this nice road around 50-55mph, temp showing on the dash was in the low 90s. I glance down at the dash and I have 5 bars!?! I don't have the air dam, yet. I speed up and for a minute, it goes to six bars?!!!?, then drops back to five bars.

I turned around and suddenly it drops to three bars. The issue was I was riding with a 35/40 mph wind to my back. The engine was burning fuel and making heat, but there was probably only 10 mph of wind going through the radiator - until I turned around. [ this is not the first time I have noticed we don't have a "duhhhh" Smilie - one would fit here perfectly ]

Living in the high desert (high altitude & temps + low humidity) and riding in the summer, 5 bars can be a fact of life, and as Lamont's gauge shows, 5 bars looks to be just fine.

Tom

Very good points there as well.

I have often felt the need for a Duh smiley! :D

[ataDude]

...I have often felt the need for a Duh smiley!

Here you go: http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:Ehj0IOv6werNKM:http://www.legaljuice.com/oops%20doh.jpg

[Tom in NM]

Here you go: http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:Ehj0IOv6werNKM:http://www.legaljuice.com/oops%20doh.jpg

Nice of you to share your baby picture. :roflblack:

Tom

[ataDude]

Nice of you to share your baby picture. :roflblack:

Tom

Nah... here's mine, Tom :D
http://oak.cats.ohiou.edu/~ct253704/files/humor/1people/baby%20-%20middle%20finger.jpg

.

[SpyderWolf]

:roflblack: Thanks ataDude! :roflblack:

[Some Guy]

I'm a "first adopter"...Harvey installed mine at Spyderfest in Cuba, MO. I hadn't had many hot temp days until recently, but we have had many lately. I can tell you, my :spyder2: runs at 3 bars when moving...even at the hottest temps. I believe the :spyder2:'s thermostat likes that temp, since that's what it runs in Michigan winters as well. It is a great, inexpensive mod and it provides many people (including me) with some piece of mind (even if it's not really an issue).

P.S. Watch out for that ataDude!!! He's DANGEROUS!!! hehehe

[SPYDERPOPS]

Thanks for all of the honest assessments and your experiences with the "Missing Air Dam".

As I have advertised, the variations of the results will be many due to circumstances.

I have noticed several remedies for overheating in the past which include removing the lower cover underneath and behind the radiator. Also Tom in NM posted that he added pipe insulation to the back side of the radiator to stop air from going out and around the backside of the scoop/redirector for the exit air. Also there is the plastic binder cover addition that extends the scoop/redirector.

WARNING: Do not use any of the above remedies in conjunction with the “Missing Air Dam” as they may actually raise your water temp. at speed.

That said, I have performed many test including placing a remote temperature probe on my toe and the digital readout on my tank bag. With Toms remedy and the “Missing Air Dam” the temp. on my foot was 10-15 degrees cooler however the water temp went up 2 bars.

At speed your foot may be cooler when running with the “Missing Air Dam” depending on where you place your foot on the peg, how big your foot is and what type of foot wear you are using.

I do my testing with tennis shoes on so I can actually feel what’s happening along with being able to read the temp.

All testing has been conducted by both removing the “Missing Air Dam” and then test again by putting a new one on to get results during certain conditions to make sure I am comparing Apples to Apples.

By using the temp probe I have discovered that the most heat is coming off of that “y” pipe that actually is lower than the fairing. Air comes straight through the hole that the brake pedal arm comes through, at a rate of over 130 degrees on a 90 degree day and running 3 bars. Yes, I have a new Honda “Y” gasket in there but just think how bad it would be with a blown gasket?

Yes, the temp will go up to 5 bars when in slow traffic or stopped until the fan comes on and then it can get worse depending on ambient temp and duration of stops at idle. Your car is equipped with two fans and when the AC is on you will hear both of them kick on. Be assured that your cars temp goes up as much as the Spyder. Now open your hood on your favorite late model vehicle and see if there are gaps around the radiator?

I just want everyone to know that I didn’t just dream this up one day as a theory, I have been testing several different designs for over a year. During this time I have ridden my Spyder from AR to CA and then from AR to GA. I even showed Tom from NM my idea when meeting him in NM, still working on the foot rest Tom.

Happy Spyder riding,
Harvey Clark

SPYDERPOPS

[Buelldog]

Prior to installing the Air dam my unit ran in the 3 to 5 bar range (Highway,Town,Stop,Go).......now with the air dam in place.......2 to 4 bar range!!It is definetly doing what it is supposed to!If I am at a long stop yes it will hit 5 bars and the fan will kick in.Prior to installing Harvey's air dam I noticed different bar readings on different days that had the same ambient air temp....so there are atmospheric variables that cause different bar readings on days that have the same ambient air temp.Anyway add me to the folks that have seen positive results with this little mod!!:thumbup:

[SpyderWolf]

Great explanation of your testing process Harvey!

Thanks again for developing this for us as well. :2thumbs:

[bone crusher]

Okay, so I'm at Rolling Thunder today.

It was about 85 degrees in DC and I was in a little traffic going and coming (was riding in a large group with police escort...cool!)

Anyway, I could feel INTENSE heat on my right leg...the bike also seemed to be running at 4-5 bars, even when I was on the highway and traveling at 65 mph for a period of time.

The way I understand it is that the dam concentrates the air so that the fan is more efficient. Should I assume that the hot air on my leg is letting me know that the engine is staying cooler? Are we sure this is the right way to go? Why were there not less bars if I'm going to sacrifice my leg?

I don't recall looking at my temp gauge very closely last year, but I know the most bars I'd ever see were 5. Well, today, be in in traffic (and I know the dam doesn't do anything while still) and on the open highway, that I was still running 5 bars with HOT HOT HOT air on my right leg...good thing I had my riding pants on...

Comments?

[jabba11]

Okay, so I'm at Rolling Thunder today.

It was about 85 degrees in DC and I was in a little traffic going and coming (was riding in a large group with police escort...cool!)

Anyway, I could feel INTENSE heat on my right leg...the bike also seemed to be running at 4-5 bars, even when I was on the highway and traveling at 65 mph for a period of time.

The way I understand it is that the dam concentrates the air so that the fan is more efficient. Should I assume that the hot air on my leg is letting me know that the engine is staying cooler? Are we sure this is the right way to go? Why were there not less bars if I'm going to sacrifice my leg?

I don't recall looking at my temp gauge very closely last year, but I know the most bars I'd ever see were 5. Well, today, be in in traffic (and I know the dam doesn't do anything while still) and on the open highway, that I was still running 5 bars with HOT HOT HOT air on my right leg...good thing I had my riding pants on...

Comments?
y gasket?

[Recluze]

Interesting. I thought I was imagining things after I installed the air dam and the motor seemed to run a little warmer than it had been.

Now my bike has always run at 2-3 bars at highway and 4-5 at stop on a hot California day. I have never experienced the hot foot thing some people complain about.

With the air dam it "seems' to be running hotter and it has been COLD in California. Some empirical data is needed on this subject and I am not going to do it.

My conclusion, such as it is, is that if your cooling system is working correctly you don't need the air dam. If your cooling system is not working correctly you should probably look into why or install the air dam for some relief.

I expect that as temperatures increase here I will be required to remove the air dam to get the bike back to what I consider to be normal.

[superfly3]

Just installed mine over the weekend and took a trip north and now the bike is running cooler 3 bars and when I stop 4 or 5 bars and the other thing is no more hot foot!:2thumbs:

[boborgera]

Interesting.

My conclusion, such as it is, is that if your cooling system is working correctly you don't need the air dam. If your cooling system is not working correctly you should probably look into why or install the air dam for some relief.


:agree:

[SPYDERPOPS]

If your leg is getting real hot, make sure the "Y" gasket is not blown. To check the "Y" gasket put your hand inside the open slot next to your right knee with the engine running, stopped with parking brake engaged and being careful not to touch the exhaust pipe.

If you feel hot air circulating, you have a blown "Y" gasket!

A common mistake is thinking your Spyder doesn't have enough miles on it to have a blown gasket. Also, it could be blown again even if a dealership replaced it last month. The stock gasket can blow out in a heart beat, I know from experience along with many others on this forum. The Honda gasket is the only way to get any mileage out of the "Y" connection on the right side.

The nice part about using the Honda gasket is that most Honda shops have them in stock. Part# 18392-MAM-000

Another consideration is having that hot exhaust blowing on the engine case will most certainly cause your Spyder to run hotter no matter how much air is going through the radiator.

If you really want to test the "Missing Air Dam" take a ride without installing it on a hot day and take note of the ambient temp. and the water temp. Install the "Missing Air Dam" and take another ride on the same route, same ambient temp. and see how the water temp. reacts.

All of my testing has been conducted in this manner, apples to apples!

[Yazz]

If your leg is getting real hot, make sure the "Y" gasket is not blown. To check the "Y" gasket put your hand inside the open slot next to your right knee with the engine running, stopped with parking brake engaged and being careful not to touch the exhaust pipe.

If you feel hot air circulating, you have a blown "Y" gasket!

A common mistake is thinking your Spyder doesn't have enough miles on it to have a blown gasket. Also, it could be blown again even if a dealership replaced it last month. The stock gasket can blow out in a heart beat, I know from experience along with many others on this forum. The Honda gasket is the only way to get any mileage out of the "Y" connection on the right side.

The nice part about using the Honda gasket is that most Honda shops have them in stock. Part# 18392-MAM-000

Another consideration is having that hot exhaust blowing on the engine case will most certainly cause your Spyder to run hotter no matter how much air is going through the radiator.

If you really want to test the "Missing Air Dam" take a ride without installing it on a hot day and take note of the ambient temp. and the water temp. Install the "Missing Air Dam" and take another ride on the same route, same ambient temp. and see how the water temp. reacts.

All of my testing has been conducted in this manner, apples to apples!

Repops, thanks for the explanation about the "Y" gasket blowing. Had the MAD put in at Spyderfest. Ran at three bars all the way home and up to today. Great idea, simple procedure.

Went for a ryde today and Spydee was running at five bars. Temps were around 85-90. Right foot got REAL hot as the miles went by. (Never happened before.) After the last gas stop, she was stuttering. Reached down and felt the panel by my right calf. It was very hot to the touch! Thought about wrapping the pipe. Think maybe its a blown "Y" gasket?

[boborgera]

Reached down and felt the panel by my right calf. It was very hot to the touch! Thought about wrapping the pipe. Think maybe its a blown "Y" gasket?

Usually the indication of a bad Y gasket is noise fumes and excessive heat. And not necessarily in that order
For some reason right side gives out first.
Mine started to get loud at about 8 thousand, at 11 thousand the right side was totally fried.

[SPYDERPOPS]

I had a friend come over with his Spyder one day and it was obvious that it was louder as he had stock exhaust and I could hear it. The problem with him not noticing is that it progressively got louder little by little and he didn't have anything to compare so it just grew on him.

He had noticed the heat on his foot but it was just coming into spring and he thought he had forgotten from last summer.

That "Y" gasket will play with your mind, FOR SURE!

[bone crusher]

If your leg is getting real hot, make sure the "Y" gasket is not blown. To check the "Y" gasket put your hand inside the open slot next to your right knee with the engine running, stopped with parking brake engaged and being careful not to touch the exhaust pipe.

If you feel hot air circulating, you have a blown "Y" gasket!

A common mistake is thinking your Spyder doesn't have enough miles on it to have a blown gasket. Also, it could be blown again even if a dealership replaced it last month. The stock gasket can blow out in a heart beat, I know from experience along with many others on this forum. The Honda gasket is the only way to get any mileage out of the "Y" connection on the right side.

The nice part about using the Honda gasket is that most Honda shops have them in stock. Part# 18392-MAM-000

Another consideration is having that hot exhaust blowing on the engine case will most certainly cause your Spyder to run hotter no matter how much air is going through the radiator.

If you really want to test the "Missing Air Dam" take a ride without installing it on a hot day and take note of the ambient temp. and the water temp. Install the "Missing Air Dam" and take another ride on the same route, same ambient temp. and see how the water temp. reacts.

All of my testing has been conducted in this manner, apples to apples!

Harvey,

Please post a pic of what you are referring to so I know where to check...also, never had this problem until the air dam was installed...never felt hot air on the right leg before...

Sure, the 'Y' gasket can blow, but the timing would be purely coincidendal? The air dam has no effect on the gasket? Timing on this is a little odd...can the 'Y' gasket be changed by a mere mortal such as myself or does it require a trip to the shop (or the help of a very smart HD guy?)

Also, http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/302831-honda-18392-mam-000-hard-parts-gasket-b-muffler is the part I need?

Thanks...

Oh, until this is fixed (if this is the problem...haveta check)...does this create damage to the bike?

[SpyderWolf]

Harvey,

Please post a pic of what you are referring to so I know where to check...also, never had this problem until the air dam was installed...never felt hot air on the right leg before...

Sure, the 'Y' gasket can blow, but the timing would be purely coincidendal? The air dam has no effect on the gasket? Timing on this is a little odd...can the 'Y' gasket be changed by a mere mortal such as myself or does it require a trip to the shop (or the help of a very smart HD guy?)

Also, http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/302831-honda-18392-mam-000-hard-parts-gasket-b-muffler is the part I need?

Thanks...

Oh, until this is fixed (if this is the problem...haveta check)...does this create damage to the bike?

Check out this thread by Wacky Dan, as it has directions and pictures of the Y Gasket replacement process:

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19691

I replaced mine this weekend, and I only found half of the right one so the rest must have burned away. My Spyder was not only louder, I could also smell fuel, and it started sputtering as well. I thought the bad running might be the spark plugs, so I replaced them while I was at it just to be on the safe side.

That is also the correct part number you want.

On a side note, does anyone know where to get a replacement clamp from for the Y connections? Mine are rusted pretty badly already. :dontknow:

[Yazz]

Usually the indication of a bad Y gasket is noise fumes and excessive heat. And not necessarily in that order
For some reason right side gives out first.
Mine started to get loud at about 8 thousand, at 11 thousand the right side was totally fried.

Thanks for the basic things to watch out for. Took Spydee for a test run today. Watched for the above things and check for hot air circulating per Repops.

Air temp. 92. First mile, stayed under three bars and rode great. After the first mile, the bars went up to five, at six, could see when the fan kicked in. She never got lower than five bars at full speed or at a red light for the rest of the ryde. The longer we rode, the more she would "pop" on deceleration. Coming into the neighborhood in first gear, she stuttered again.

Wore shorts and tennis shoes to feel the difference in heat on the right side vs. the left. On the right side, could feel the heat coming from beside the brake lever like Repops said it would. But also, as the ryde went on, the area by my calf got unbearable hot. Like Ouch!

1 -Milage - almost 7,000 miles.
2- Noise - Couldn't tell. Have Duel Three Bros.
3 -Fumes - At stop lights, smelt slight exhaust smell.
4- Heat - Engine doesn't cool down at high speeds. Panel that right calf rests on was uncomfortably hot. Left leg just fine.

While the engine was hot and running, slipped my hand in between the panels. Felt slight hot air circulation aft of my hand. Rear skinny panel was very hot to the touch where it butts up with the middle/forward panel.

Does it sound like I need to replace a "Y" gasket? Any other ideas?
Did I tell you I'm leaving for a bike rally next Tuesday?:gaah:

[boborgera]

While the engine was hot and running, slipped my hand in between the panels. Felt slight hot air circulation aft of my hand. Rear skinny panel was very hot to the touch where it butts up with the middle/forward panel.

Does it sound like I need to replace a "Y" gasket? Any other ideas?
Did I tell you I'm leaving for a bike rally next Tuesday?:gaah:

When the engine/pipes are COLD, Start the engine put one hand close to the Y gasket right side[careful gets hot quick] then with the other hand rev. the engine up and down, If it's leaking you should hear and feel it.
Remember it gets very hot very fast. Also you might see black carbon stains around the gasket joint?

[Yazz]

When the engine/pipes are COLD, Start the engine put one hand close to the Y gasket right side[careful gets hot quick] then with the other hand rev. the engine up and down, If it's leaking you should hear and feel it.
Remember it gets very hot very fast. Also you might see black carbon stains around the gasket joint?

Thanks to Wacky Dan's descriptions and pictures was able to tear Spydee apart enough to see the "Y" gasket. No carbon stains from what I could see.

The engine is still hot. Will wait till evening to do the don't burn your hand test. Was wondering if putting soapy water around the gasket and watching for bubbles while reving would give the same results? I'm a wimp...:opps:

[jabba11]

Today was a good test. rode to work OAT 92 degrees and very humid. I drive the same route to work everyday. It is about 7 miles city and 13 highway. In town no real difference with the air dam (slow warm up to 5 bars and fan and no 6 bars or higher). At 45 mph 4 bars 55 mph 4 bars for awhiel then 3 bars at 70 mph three bars. these readings are consistently 1 bar lower than it was before...

[boborgera]

:D
Thanks to Wacky Dan's descriptions and pictures was able to tear Spydee apart enough to see the "Y" gasket. No carbon stains from what I could see.

The engine is still hot. Will wait till evening to do the don't burn your hand test. Was wondering if putting soapy water around the gasket and watching for bubbles while revving would give the same results? I'm a wimp...:opps:

All you'll see is smoke [steam] and the pungent smell of soap.:D

[Yazz]

:D

All you'll see is smoke [steam] and the pungent smell of soap.:D

Howja know?:yikes:

Will let her cool down and do it the manly way...

[bone crusher]

Howja know?:yikes:

Will let her cool down and do it the manly way...


Lemme know what you find...I have only 3000 miles, but have had the bike since Aug. 2008. It is odd that this began shortly after the 3000 mile service, second update, and air dam installation...

May have nothing to do with either of these, but I'd rather tear off the dam than take the exhaust system apart...either way, I did order the Honda gaskets...

[SSG Bean]

Lemme know what you find...I have only 3000 miles, but have had the bike since Aug. 2008. It is odd that this began shortly after the 3000 mile service, second update, and air dam installation...

May have nothing to do with either of these, but I'd rather tear off the dam than take the exhaust system apart...either way, I did order the Honda gaskets...

It was already mentioned in this thread that mileage does not matter. I had to replace mine before I ever hit 1000 miles. I replaced them again at around 4500 with the honda pieces. I've only gone about 1000 mi since then, but I inspected the exhaust this weekend and everything was pretty good. I did notice that I had to tighten the clamps a bit, but everything else was good.

I don't think your timing is odd at all. Think about the changes you just stated. Doing the updates tends to make it run more lean, in turn, the exhaust is hotter and will burn the gasket more quickly. Perfectly logical.

The exhaust is easy to pull apart. Remove the springs, loosen the clamps, remove the black rubber hanger from the bottom of the spyder to gain room to drop it, and just pull them apart.

[bone crusher]

It was already mentioned in this thread that mileage does not matter. I had to replace mine before I ever hit 1000 miles. I replaced them again at around 4500 with the honda pieces. I've only gone about 1000 mi since then, but I inspected the exhaust this weekend and everything was pretty good. I did notice that I had to tighten the clamps a bit, but everything else was good.

I don't think your timing is odd at all. Think about the changes you just stated. Doing the updates tends to make it run more lean, in turn, the exhaust is hotter and will burn the gasket more quickly. Perfectly logical.

The exhaust is easy to pull apart. Remove the springs, loosen the clamps, remove the black rubber hanger from the bottom of the spyder to gain room to drop it, and just pull them apart.


Thanks Bean...am going to proceed with this as most think this is the problem...will report back when it's done...(have gaskets on the way)...

BTW, how long should the Honda gaskets last?

[Yazz]

Lemme know what you find...I have only 3000 miles, but have had the bike since Aug. 2008. It is odd that this began shortly after the 3000 mile service, second update, and air dam installation...

May have nothing to do with either of these, but I'd rather tear off the dam than take the exhaust system apart...either way, I did order the Honda gaskets...

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

[Some Guy]

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

You should replace both at the same time. You already have to take all the parts off anyway, why do it again? (remember...YOU are the mechanic of most of us!!!) I did mine about 2 weeks before we met in Cuba and it made a huge difference. Like I posted on another thread, my right side gasket was the size of a postage stamp and looked like a window screen! nojoke I saved it to show people!!!

See you (and Jeff???) in Chicago!!! :D

[SpyderWolf]

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.

Believe it or not, the left side may still be perfectly fine. However, you cannot really disconnect one and work on it without disconnecting the other side, so you may as well take care of them both at the same time. :D

[boborgera]

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.


You'll probably find that when you lower the Y pipes the left gasket is on it's last legs, like spyderwolf and someguy said replace both it won't take any longer to do.:thumbup:

[bone crusher]

Oh man, it is so obvious. Hubby started up Spydee, I had my hand cupped around the "Y" gasket. You can feel the air coming out of it like a breeze. Revved the engine and there was no mistake. Didn't need to get the pipes too hot for results.

Hubby is going down to Wild West Honda on his way home from work tomorrow and picking up new "Y" gaskets and hopefully new screws for the clamp as they are badly corroded. Will try to get stainless steel vs. mystery metal.

Had my updates done after the Big Bend ryde. Put in a JB after that. Then in Cuba had a MAD installed. In my mind, running the engine so lean for so long caused problems with Spydee's exhaust running hot, thus the gasket burning up. IMHO...

Time is an issue right now. Will it be ok if I just replace the right "Y" gasket and replace the left one at a later time? There seems to be a balancing issue between the two pipes.


Anyone got specs on those screws for the clamps? Is stainless the best way to go or is bronze?

[Yazz]

You should replace both at the same time. You already have to take all the parts off anyway, why do it again? (remember...YOU are the mechanic of most of us!!!) I did mine about 2 weeks before we met in Cuba and it made a huge difference. Like I posted on another thread, my right side gasket was the size of a postage stamp and looked like a window screen! nojoke I saved it to show people!!!

See you (and Jeff???) in Chicago!!! :D

Can't make it to Chicago this year. Son is getting married in July. Already have reservations at RRI. See Ya there! Oops... forgot your not going.:roflblack:

Thank Ya'll for the advice. With all the flurry going on getting ready for the rally, tried to do the "Never time to do it right, always time to do it twice" thing. Glad everyone set me right.:bowdown:

Switching over to Wacky Dan's Y gasket thread...

[Yazz]

Installed new "Y" gaskets (both sides) and took the same test ryde as above. Three bars in the wind, five bars at stop lights. No heat emanating from the right side panels. No more stuttering.:doorag:

[SpyderWolf]

Installed new "Y" gaskets (both sides) and took the same test ryde as above. Three bars in the wind, five bars at stop lights. No heat emanating from the right side panels. No more stuttering.:doorag:

:2thumbs:

What about the new screws for your clamps? Did the Honda ones work? I am probably going to look for some new clamps to use next time, if I can find them anywhere.

[aka1004]

last two days in palm springs were 103 and 105 degrees and air dam have basically lost it's effectiveness. :( i don't have a temp gauge so i can only go by temp bar on spyder so it may be running 10 degrees cooler :dontknow:.
i was mostly traveling on 45-55 highway with traffic lights and spyder had very hard time bring it down to 4 bars even when running at consistent 45-55 for 3-6 minutes. i think it only happened twice today but spyder had hard time bringing it down to 4 bars without the air dam anyway but it feels to me that when i am sitting at a light, temp goes up quicker than without the air dam. not by much but sometimes it goes up so quick to 6 bars. i am just guessing but could loosing some of the metal surface that used to dissipate heat by attaching air dam to radiator cause this?:dontknow:
i did not use the manual fan switch to test out the air dam today but i will be utilizing them if i anticipate even a little stop and go traffic when it's hot.

[Yazz]

:2thumbs:

What about the new screws for your clamps? Did the Honda ones work? I am probably going to look for some new clamps to use next time, if I can find them anywhere.

The new screws are on order. Put the corroded ones back in and they are holding up at the proper torque values.

If the screws match up with the Spydee clamps, maybe the whole "Y" gasket assembly is Hondaish? Think it would come down to how wide the Honda clamp is?...:dontknow:

[aka1004]

today was hotter than yesterday, 114 ambient temp but spyder was running cooler. it seems air dam did it's job and as soon as i start moving, let's say within 15-45 seconds, spyder's temp bar went down to 4 from 5 bars. i would not expect it to go down to 3 in this kinda weather.
it looks like unknown variables on my spyder was the culprit of running hot and air dam does what it was supposed to do. i am beginning think my spyder's behaving differently day to day sometimes probably caused the dynojet's previous o2 sensor to keep leaning out.

[SpyderWolf]

The new screws are on order. Put the corroded ones back in and they are holding up at the proper torque values.

If the screws match up with the Spydee clamps, maybe the whole "Y" gasket assembly is Hondaish? Think it would come down to how wide the Honda clamp is?...:dontknow:

I have not checked the parts schematic closely enough for the Honda to see if they use the same type of clamp or not. That would be interesting if they did though. I may have to check that out, as I would like to replace mine as well.

[skeetshooterb]

One of my clamps broke,couldn't fine anything in a hurry so i bought 2 horse shoe muffler clamps 2''.I threw the u bolts away and used the 2 clamps.I :2thumbs:welded 2 3/8 nuts on back of one put it on back of pipe and the other on front.Used 2 3/8 bolts to pull them together.Works perfect; its better than the brp clamps

[Campverdefela]

today was hotter than yesterday, 114 ambient temp but spyder was running cooler. it seems air dam did it's job and as soon as i start moving, let's say within 15-45 seconds, spyder's temp bar went down to 4 from 5 bars. i would not expect it to go down to 3 in this kinda weather.
it looks like unknown variables on my spyder was the culprit of running hot and air dam does what it was supposed to do. i am beginning think my spyder's behaving differently day to day sometimes probably caused the dynojet's previous o2 sensor to keep leaning out.
I also reported earlier that I was suspect of the possible improvement but after further testing with and without the dam I can now see the difference. I'm staying with the air dam.

[Batmobile]

:agree: We rode 300 miles in heat and humidity around Houston and Galveston on Sunday and I do believe it does what is advertised, keeping the engine cooler at speed, and I don't think it makes the engine run hotter driving in town. However, I think you do get more heat on your right leg because the cooler air that used to mix with the hot air coming out of the radiator to dilute it some before it reached you is gone. Resulting in the blow torch effect others have mentioned.:yikes: So as with everything else there are trade offs and you have to decide what works best for you.

My .03 cents worth....

[SpyderWolf]

One of my clamps broke,couldn't fine anything in a hurry so i bought 2 horse shoe muffler clamps 2''.I threw the u bolts away and used the 2 clamps.I :2thumbs:welded 2 3/8 nuts on back of one put it on back of pipe and the other on front.Used 2 3/8 bolts to pull them together.Works perfect; its better than the brp clamps

That is cool! I wish I had the tools, and skill set, to do things like that. Unfortunately, I will have to look for pre-made replacement clamps.

[Bozzzz]

I have a new 2010 RT and it seems that everything is sealed around the fan. Am I missing something?

[Lamonster]

I have a new 2010 RT and it seems that everything is sealed around the fan. Am I missing something?
Yes, your missing that this is talking about the RS :D

[SpyderWolf]

I have a new 2010 RT and it seems that everything is sealed around the fan. Am I missing something?

No, you are not missing anything. As you have stated, the RT already has an air dam in place while our GS models did not include one.

[Marc Goldstone]

:yes: :2thumbs:

I am a fairly new Spyder owner. (Purchased our 2010 RSS bike two months ago)

In my humble opinion the SE5 Spyder has a design issue that causes excessive temperatures on the legs of the driver. This is most prevalent when the ambient temperature exceeds about 100 degrees F. In the desert southwest and Bullhead City Arizona in particular our summer temperatures have already reached 113 degrees and it is only the beginning of June. The right leg gets the brunt of the heat, except when the wind is blowing from the right side of the bike, then the left leg experiences uncomfortable temperatures. If stopped at a long traffic light, the initial heat appeared to be from the exhaust, (no leaks) but when the radiator fan kicked in the pain got really unbearable.

The following "fixes" describe an acceptable resolution of the engine heat problem:

First, I purchased and installed the Spyderpops "missing air dam" which seemed to help cool the engine more effectively (fewer bars while moving) but the leg burning continued at high ambient temperatures and while stopped. A partial fix at best.

In frustration I next tried two additional modifications implemented at the same time. The first was to wrap both exhaust pipes with 2" width graphite black exhaust insulating wrap from the engine exhaust port down to the spring loaded exhaust flange on the left side and beyond the spring (spring not covered) down to the bottom of the bike on the right exhaust pipe. The wrap was applied dry with about 1/2" of overlap. I didn't bother to wrap the exhaust pipes located at the very bottom of the bike as the frame adequately deflects that heat. I found the stainless steel "cable wraps" difficult to install and tighten so instead I used some steel wire like the type used to tie rebar. Looping one or two turns around the Fiberglas wrapping material and twisting tight with a plier was much quicker and far superior at clamping the pipe wrap to the exhaust pipe. I read about this pipe wrap on the forums.

Lastly I fabricated an air dam extension for the right side cowling to deflect more air from the cooling fan out the opening on the right side of the cowling. I got the idea for this from several forum posts (Australian and Domestic) Rather than using a "notebook cover" plastic material I chose a piece of aluminum roof (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/#) flashing and was able to gradually cut it to size in place. It was then screwed to the standard plastic air dam and for good measure was also siliconed in place. I added a strip of "continuous grommet" made of nylon material and siliconed it on the edge that is closest to the fan shroud because the cut aluminum edge was sharp. Since the radiator host runs along the top edge of the plastic air dam I was careful in the screw placement to avoid puncturing the hose.

The first test took place today and in 109 degree heat the only heat on the right leg (wearing shorts) was when my thigh touched the torx body panel screws. They were somewhat hot but easy to avoid by adjusting my leg position. There was absolutely no uncomfortable heat felt on either leg even in stop and go traffic.

My Wife and I will be driving 750 miles next week through southern Utah, Zion National Park, Page Arizona, the south rim of the grand canyon and finally old route 66 back to Bullhead City. The temperatures can be expected to be well over 110 degrees at times so this will be a good test, though I am confident that the problem has been solved.

It took about an hour of driving to burn off the silicone coating on the "cool it" Thermo Tec exhaust wrap which I purchased from Autohttp://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/2_bing.gif (http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/#) Zone for about $50. During that time the bike give off some smoke but not to worry, there is no chance of a fire during this out gassing.

My next redesign project of a much lesser priority will be to resolve the brake squeal. I plan on trying some 3M VHB high temperature tape between the piston and the brake shoes. Again the idea came from several forum posts.