Exhaust Y Gasket replacement

[WackyDan]

Tools: Metric sockets, Socket extensions, Pry bar (optional), ATV lift or ramps, and either wood blocks or floor jack to support Y manifold.

Oh... And a big rubber mallet and anger management. * Very important.

A second pair of hands is required for only five minutes towards the end of the install. My wife was able to do this no problem.

Parts: Either the BRP Y gaskets or the Honda GL 1800 Gaskets. The Honda Gaskets will last longer according to others here that have used them. They are also cheaper. Part number for the Honda GL1800 gasket is 18392-MAM-000

First... This is what we are talking about below in the picture. You will need to remove the lower kick panels on both sides for the best access. I found that to be easiest, though getting the pipes back together was a challenge. Left side and then right side in pics below.
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/exhaust.jpg
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/exhaust2.jpg

This is what we need to get in there. A new Gasket on the left and right side.
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/example.jpg


You will need to have the Spyder elevated several inches to do this comfortably.

Before you start attacking the pipes, have a floor jack or stack of wood handy to support the entire Y pipe manifold from underneath.

To start disassembly, you will need to remove the spring on each side. I used a pair of vice grips but others have used some sort of hooked tool.

You then will want to loosen the 10mm bolt on each clamp assembly in the pictures above.

You will need to unhook the rubber exhaust hanger that is supporting the whole assembly. it is easier to slide it off the top hook. Please make sure you have blocking in place to support the pipes, as you do not want to put pressure on the O2 sensor wire harness which feeds back up above the swing arm.

Hanger and O2 sensor are noted in the following pics:
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/hang.jpg
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/hanger.jpg

Picture with the jack in place to support the whole assembly as I worked it loose. Floor jack was nice as I screwed the white plate on the jack up or down as I needed play... You could do the same with multiple wood boards in a stack.

http://snailbarf.com/spyder/jack2.jpg

Once you have the jack in place, you can loosen the muffler bolt found here:
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/muff.jpg

Now you can fully loosen the pipe clamps if you haven't already and work the Y manifold free from the headers.

Once they are free, you will need to pull the old gaskets out. I found pulling them out to be a challenge. The left side was in great shape and was the hardest to pull out. The right side wasn't terrible, but it wasn't in as good shape as the left side and pulled out rather easily. In fact, I was surprised by the right side. I thought it would have been in worse shape than it was. You will probably find that the old gaskets are baked onto and into the female ends of the Y-Pipe.

No you can take the new gaskets and place them on the male ends of the header pipes which is the header side of the connection. It should look like the picture below.

http://snailbarf.com/spyder/fitting.jpg

That is about it. A second pair of hands is handy. Let me say that getting the pipes up over the new gasket and fully seated required some anger, some light prying, and the application of anger via a large rubber mallet. Once I had the lower pipe on one side started by hand, I used the mallet to smack that side from the bottom of the manifold. Got one side up half way, had my wife hold it to make sure it didn't slip, and then worked on the other side. Used the mallet to fully seat them, partially tightened the clamps, and reinstalled the springs.

The service manual calls for 13 Nm or 115 pounds of torque. Pretty sure that 115 is a misprint as that is way different than 13Nm. I set the torque wrench at 15 pounds and finished tightening. The weird thing is that as the gaskets compress a bit and it screws with the torque wrench actually working normally. Just had to be careful.

EDIT AND NOTE ABOUT TORQUE ON THE CLAMPS ( FROM BILLYBOVINE) : Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.

After all that, make sure the rubber hanger is put back in place, and the muffler bolt is tightened again!

Start up the bike, let it run for 5 minutes or so. You will smell the new gaskets "cooking" in. After that I put the wrench back on the clamps for another 1/4 turn or so.

I think that sums it up. This wasn't hard at all. I already had the bike torn down for oil change and plug changes so this was a good time to do these and upgrade to the honda parts.

My biggest pain was just getting the pipes back together as they don't line up nicely, though yours might versus mine. I could do this in under an hour now that I've done it once.

I hope this helps those that don't understand what the Gaskets are or where they go and some of the steps in photos needed to get them done. If I missed something, let me know.

[Firefly]

Nice write-up. Mine didn't require a mallet... :thumbup:


I highly recommend using a good spring puller--- or if you don't have one--- take a T-handle allen wrench that you don't care to ruin and bend the end of it into a hook... like a "U" shape. Works great for pulling springs.:thumbup:

[sabunim5]

Nice post. :2thumbs: Hope it gets moved to the "How To" section.

[Sarge707]

Great Pictures and write -up.:D Thanks for your time and effort!!!:2thumbs:

[SpyderWolf]

:2thumbs: Outstanding job Dan. Thanks for taking the time to do this for us. My new gaskets should be in on Wednesday. It was a very good thing for you to put the part number in the post as well.

[Longlegs]

Cool, I have this on my to-do list.

[Rando]

Let me say that getting the pipes up over the new gasket and fully seated required some anger, some light prying, and the application of anger via a large rubber mallet.I believe there is a tool that will open up the slotted pipe just enough to allow it to slip over the gasket easier. Does anyone know anything about such a tool?

[boborgera]

I believe there is a tool that will open up the slotted pipe just enough to allow it to slip over the gasket easier. Does anyone know anything about such a tool?

I think it's called a pipe expander, Something you might use once or twice in a life time, unless you work in a muffler shop. If i have to open up a pipe i stick the handle from a breaker bar into the end of the pipe and rotate in an outward stirring motion.

[WackyDan]

I think it's called a pipe expander, Something you might use once or twice in a life time, unless you work in a muffler shop. If i have to open up a pipe i stick the handle from a breaker bar into the end of the pipe and rotate in an outward stirring motion.

Hard to do that with the manifold still on the bike. :)

[bone crusher]

Hard to do that with the manifold still on the bike. :)


Your step-by-step rocks...I will be using your pics when I do this in a week or two...(need the gaskets in first!)...

thanks Dan...really appreciate this!

[SpyderWolf]

I replaced mine this past weekend. No rubber mallet needed, but plenty of anger management and a better jack would have helped quite a bit. My right side only had a little less that half the gasket left, while I had to wrestle with the left side to get it out of the pipe. I also replaced the spark plugs while I was at it, as my Spyder had started running like crap and I figured it definitely couldn't hurt anything to throw new plugs at it. I have 10,000 miles on it now. :thumbup:

[Some Guy]

My right side only had a little less that half the gasket left

I did mine 3 months ago and my right side was HORRIBLE!!! It was the size of a postage stamp and looked like a window screen! :yikes: nojoke
I'm sure the Honda gaskets will last much longer. Much beefier construction.

[Big Arm]

Just ordered four today.....should be in by Fri., then I'll be replacing mine. Thanks for all the pics. :clap:

[burg650]

Is there a better gasket to replace the one on the end of the Y pipe for the exhaust.

[WackyDan]

Is there a better gasket to replace the one on the end of the Y pipe for the exhaust.

Nope. I think some have tried to find one, but nothing has been found as of yet. I don't think anyone has had issues with that one though.

[boborgera]

Hard to do that with the manifold still on the bike. :)

Hard but not impossible. :D In my younger days i did all my repairs in the street, you find a way around any problem, buying extra tools for one repair was not an option.:D

[Yazz]

Found a PN for the screw that holds the clamp on. Its for a Goldwing that uses the same PN for the "Y" gasket. 90129-MN5-000 Don't know if it will work but worth a try.

They have them on order for me. Will put the corroded screws back in, then replace them when the new screws come in. Hopefully they will work.

[burg650]

I went to a muffler shop today and talk about my hindle/Y pipe leak and this is what I was told to do, they said to go to any auto parts shop and get the exhaust leak tape (comes in black and red) rap it around the male part as much to create a tight fit and this should seal/fill the gap when I clamp the pipe back on they also said that yes cutting the slots might also fix the problem with the pipe going out of round that is mostly caused by the bolt on the clamp but it can also cause a leak as well in between the cut as well. So I will get some of this pipe patch tape and maybe get a new clamp as where the bolt is that little piece is all bent out of shape, another option is to weld the Y to the hindle that sure would fix any leaks for good.

[Yazz]

Wacky Dan,

Your description and pictures are my bible for this project. My right "Y" gasket was half gone. Taking a break from trying to get the left one out. Everything you said is so spot on. Right down to anger management. :cus:

Thank you so much!:clap:

[SpyderWolf]

I went to a muffler shop today and talk about my hindle/Y pipe leak and this is what I was told to do, they said to go to any auto parts shop and get the exhaust leak tape (comes in black and red) rap it around the male part as much to create a tight fit and this should seal/fill the gap when I clamp the pipe back on they also said that yes cutting the slots might also fix the problem with the pipe going out of round that is mostly caused by the bolt on the clamp but it can also cause a leak as well in between the cut as well. So I will get some of this pipe patch tape and maybe get a new clamp as where the bolt is that little piece is all bent out of shape, another option is to weld the Y to the hindle that sure would fix any leaks for good.

The exhaust wrap idea sounds intriguing. I was actually thinking of wrapping my exhaust, but was unsure about covering up the Y section. There is a part of me that thinks with the new Honda Gasket in, if I totally wrapped the exhaust everything would last a whole lot longer, and the Spyder would be cooler in the summer as well. The only down side I can see is if I have to replace the Y gaskets again all of the wrap will have to come off. Decisions, decisions. :dontknow:

I don't think I would want to weld the Y to the headers. I am assuming they did not do that for a very good reason, but I could be mistaken as well. I may also check with the local muffler guys about cutting the slots in my Hindle connection.

[burg650]

Wacky Dan,

I have a question, changed the gaskets today but I can not get the pipe all the way up as it was with stock gasket for one the new gasket is a bit wider and it also seems a bit longer. I had help and we also had not one but two rubber mallet and we banged the hell out of it but still could not get it up as tight as the stock was, is this a problem also I do not have a torque wrench how important is it to torque it down. You write up and photos made me understand exactly what I needed to do, THANKS.

[WackyDan]

Wacky Dan,

I have a question, changed the gaskets today but I can not get the pipe all the way up as it was with stock gasket for one the new gasket is a bit wider and it also seems a bit longer. I had help and we also had not one but two rubber mallet and we banged the hell out of it but still could not get it up as tight as the stock was, is this a problem also I do not have a torque wrench how important is it to torque it down. You write up and photos made me understand exactly what I needed to do, THANKS.


That is where the pry bar or large wrench to pry comes in. I had to use a pry bar gingerly to get the female and male ends of the pipes to line up. Once you have both female flanges started and moving, a rubber mallet should fully seat them working one side to the other. You'll know when the pipe won't move any further.

Can you take a picture of what your install looks like now? send to: wackydan at gmail dot com

[Sarge707]

If the right one wears much more than the left, would it be labor saving to just replace the right one or is that an ill conceived thought?:dontknow:

[WackyDan]

If the right one wears much more than the left, would it be labor saving to just replace the right one or is that an ill conceived thought?:dontknow:

Kinda pointless to not do them both. I think you still risk damaging the left side during dis-assembly and re-assembly anyway.

Plus... The honda gasket is only like $3 to $5...and you'll already have that left side apart to get at the right side anyway.

[WackyDan]

Wacky Dan,

I have a question, changed the gaskets today but I can not get the pipe all the way up as it was with stock gasket for one the new gasket is a bit wider and it also seems a bit longer. I had help and we also had not one but two rubber mallet and we banged the hell out of it but still could not get it up as tight as the stock was, is this a problem also I do not have a torque wrench how important is it to torque it down. You write up and photos made me understand exactly what I needed to do, THANKS.



Burg... forgot about the torque wrench question... I would suggest you tighten the bolts until "stiff", and then maybe another turn more. Run her, and then give them another 1/2 turn or more depending on the resistance you feel. The torque wrench only let me know I was in the neighborhood in regard to specifications. Due to the new gaskets having some "give" to them, it was hard to know if I was accurate in regard to torque anyway.

[Roger]

Nice job dan you pointed out a few things that i would not be aware of. thank you. :clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:

[NancysToy]

Burg... forgot about the torque wrench question... I would suggest you tighten the bolts until "stiff", and then maybe another turn more. Run her, and then give them another 1/2 turn or more depending on the resistance you feel. The torque wrench only let me know I was in the neighborhood in regard to specifications. Due to the new gaskets having some "give" to them, it was hard to know if I was accurate in regard to torque anyway.
Whenever I am in this fix, with something that "gives" when it is tightened, I use a 3/8" drive ratchet, and choke up on it, putting the extension or socket between my middle and ring fingers. That way I can only get so much torque on it, like a screwdriver. Maybe it takes some experience to get the feel for it, but it has always worked for me.

[nudle]

:2thumbs:I am going to replace mine in the next few days.Ordered 2 y gaskets ($15.00 each )from the honda dealer

[WackyDan]

:2thumbs:I am going to replace mine in the next few days.Ordered 2 y gaskets ($15.00 each )from the honda dealer


$15 each? Holy crap man. I think mine were $5 bucks or so.

[SpyderWolf]

:2thumbs:I am going to replace mine in the next few days.Ordered 2 y gaskets ($15.00 each )from the honda dealer

Mine were $6.49 each from the Honda dealer about 1.5 hours away. At $15 you may want to double check they are getting you the right part number. Otherwise, one of us can get them and ship them to you next time to save you some money.

[cdem0229]

I just did this last night. Thanks for the write up. Took me 1 hour with removing the panels. My honda dealer only had them in a sealed 3 pack but they cost me $13. 10 times easier than I thought this would be.

Chuck

[Tom in NM]

:thumbup:

Dan, a great write up. A perfect example of what is so great about this forum, like others have mentioned, now when I do this, I know just what to expect.

Thanks,

Tom

[Firefly]

The exhaust wrap idea sounds intriguing. I was actually thinking of wrapping my exhaust, but was unsure about covering up the Y section. There is a part of me that thinks with the new Honda Gasket in, if I totally wrapped the exhaust everything would last a whole lot longer, and the Spyder would be cooler in the summer as well. The only down side I can see is if I have to replace the Y gaskets again all of the wrap will have to come off. Decisions, decisions. :dontknow:

I don't think I would want to weld the Y to the headers. I am assuming they did not do that for a very good reason, but I could be mistaken as well. I may also check with the local muffler guys about cutting the slots in my Hindle connection.


FWIW-- I've been told that wrapping the pipes on a fuel-injected bike is a no-no.

[SpyderWolf]

FWIW-- I've been told that wrapping the pipes on a fuel-injected bike is a no-no.

Now that is interesting. I wonder what the reasons for that might be? Everything I have read so far says it helps by getting the exhaust gasses to move to the muffler faster. :dontknow:

[nudle]

:2thumbs: replaced my y gaskets yesterday. may I make a suggestion that you put the gasket on the small end of the exhaust pipe as it will let the y pipe slide on easier.

[krb1945]

First let me say... WackyDan... "Great presentation".

Last time I bought the honda gaskets they were $8 each and I bought 20 of them. However, I have know for years that anything in Lake City FL is higher than most other places except the "gold coast". Ken krb1945

[Rando]

Guess what I did today? I replaced them with the Honda gaskets. Only 9,000 miles! It was uneventful, thanks to WackyDan.

[Capt John]

I got around to changing my "Y" gasket this morning after a 12 hr shift last night. I say gasket singular, because there was not one in the right side. No remnant of one ever being there. I didn't even have to loosen the clamp. When I took off the spring the pipe just slipped off. I wonder how long this had been that way. I'm going to have to pay more attention to the spyder when it comes back from the dealer. I had the 2nd update less than 1300 miles ago.

The whole procedure start to finish took a little over 2 1/2 hours. Working by myself. I ran into a few obstacles. Lost 1/2 trying to get the right side back on, but the KM highway bracket on that side kept getting in the way. I'm sure I missed some obvious trick. Once I removed it the procedure went like this thread indicates. If you have an extra set of hands? Use them! If not? It is not impossible, but will probably take longer.

[ntxYguy2009]

Add me to the Y gasket replacement team. I went with the Honda gaskets. :2thumbs:

David

[1VENOM]

So how many gaskets are needed to do this install? 1?, 2?, or 3?.
Y

[SpyderWolf]

So how many gaskets are needed to do this install? 1?, 2?, or 3?.
Y

You need 2 of them, one for each side.

[GaryTheBadger]

There is a 3rd gasket, after the two pipes merge into one, gasket part number is 707600350 or 707600547....Are people finding that gasket also needs replacement, and is there a better brand to use than OEM?

[Texmac1011]

There is a 3rd gasket, after the two pipes merge into one, gasket part number is 707600350 or 707600547....Are people finding that gasket also needs replacement, and is there a better brand to use than OEM?

At 12k miles both my fronts were gone and 1/2 the back. From all I have read, Honda is the gasket to use for replacement.

[ataDude]

There is a 3rd gasket, after the two pipes merge into one, gasket part number is 707600350 or 707600547....Are people finding that gasket also needs replacement, and is there a better brand to use than OEM?

Gary... no one has found a replacement for the big one yet. Still have to go with BRP's.

It's a 2.625" ID, 2.875" OD if anyone wants to continue to hunt.

.

[pierrelogic]

Just a follow-up FYI on my exp.

When I got to the BRP gaskets they both looked a little overly "smooth" but 100% intact. Of course since I was already there I pulled them both out and replaced with the Honda's. Spyder had 8,000 hard earned, hard ridden miles on it at swapout but after reading the threads surely I expected them to be at least a little fried. :dontknow:

Makes me wonder if it was worth all the effort. :popcorn:

[WackyDan]

Just a follow-up FYI on my exp.

When I got to the BRP gaskets they both looked a little overly "smooth" but 100% intact. Of course since I was already there I pulled them both out and replaced with the Honda's. Spyder had 8,000 hard earned, hard ridden miles on it at swapout but after reading the threads surely I expected them to be at least a little fried. :dontknow:

Makes me wonder if it was worth all the effort. :popcorn:
Sure it was. Now you have better gaskets at minimal cost, and you know you are good for a long time.. One less thing to worry about.

[SpyderWolf]

Sure it was. Now you have better gaskets at minimal cost, and you know you are good for a long time.. One less thing to worry about.

:agree: it is well worth the effort. :thumbup:

[1VENOM]

I'm in the process of replacing my y-gaskets, I've got all the parts and I have dropped the muffler and the Y-pipe. I removed the electrical connection for the o2 sensor so not to worry about putting weight on the wire.
Now, when I picked up my new gaskets and straps, I was talking to a mechanic who said that he used, Permatex (sensor safe) Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone, on the new gaskets to prevent premature burn out. He also stated that in the three years on doing this he has had no complaints from customers or had to replace any. He works not only on Spyders but Harley's, Honda's, Victory, and custom bikes.
I was wondering if anyone here has used this product on their seals?

[ataDude]

I'm in the process of replacing my y-gaskets, I've got all the parts and I have dropped the muffler and the Y-pipe. I removed the electrical connection for the o2 sensor so not to worry about putting weight on the wire.
Now, when I picked up my new gaskets and straps, I was talking to a mechanic who said that he used, Permatex (sensor safe) Ultra Copper High Temp RTV Silicone, on the new gaskets to prevent premature burn out. He also stated that in the three years on doing this he has had no complaints from customers or had to replace any. He works not only on Spyders but Harley's, Honda's, Victory, and custom bikes.
I was wondering if anyone here has used this product on their seals?

I use to use it on the larger exhaust joint below. Works well.

Use the Honda gaskets up high and I don't think you'll have to worry about them again.

.

[1VENOM]

I use to use it on the larger exhaust joint below. Works well.

Use the Honda gaskets up high and I don't think you'll have to worry about them again.

.
Done! Used a crescent wrench to widen the female ends of the pipe, this allowed the gasket to slide in with no mallet needed, and anger management was not required. :D:D I coated the inside of the gaskets with Permatex and they slide on effortlessly. I'll give it a run tomorrow to check for leaks and reduced heat.:chill: My left gasket was almost completely burned out. Right one and the lower one were in great shape. Heat wrap is the next project. After I install my new LED rear side markers. Waiting for fedex to show.:gaah:Now!!

[SpyderWolf]

Done! Used a crescent wrench to widen the female ends of the pipe, this allowed the gasket to slide in with no mallet needed, and anger management was not required. :D:D I coated the inside of the gaskets with Permatex and they slide on effortlessly. I'll give it a run tomorrow to check for leaks and reduced heat.:chill: My left gasket was almost completely burned out. Right one and the lower one were in great shape. Heat wrap is the next project. After I install my new LED rear side markers. Waiting for fedex to show.:gaah:Now!!

:congrats: You should definitely be able to tell a difference.

[Sarge707]

Just did mine yesterday and have 2 tips-
I used a couple different stacks of wood for support plus a jack .
1- Follow the Oxygen sensor about 12-14 inches and under the gas tank cut the zip tie that attaches it to another wire AND you add about 6 inches of PLAY in the sensor! Replace zip tie when done!
2- I did it solo and would seat one pipe a 1/2 inch but could never get the other pipe on! Tried a few times from different sides? THEN put a stack of wood under the exhaust and instead of just loosening the bolt on the exhaust I took the Nut off and slid the bolt out so the exhaust pipe itself sat about an inch lower on a stack of wood. Now both ends had the flexibility to seat - I braced them from underneath and lifted the pipe back on the bolt till the end of the process.
3- Hope this helps if you have to do it solo!:D

[SethO]

great pics dan, anyone got a link to get the gaskets quick and cheap?

[Trickie Dick]

I did mine a couple of days ago. I could not have done it without the picts and instructions provided by Dan. Thanks much. :bowdown:
I got my gaskets at a local Honda store. I think $7.00 per. Seth, I know you can get them cheaper on line. Just google the part no.

[Atonic]

Thank you, WackyDan! Did the wife's tonight and now the only exhaust noise is coming out of the muffler.

[billybovine]

Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.

[WackyDan]

Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.

Thanks for pointing that out.... I went a bit over, but not too over... They seem to be holding fine.

[Bob Denman]

I've been reading, re-reading and re-re-RE-reading this thread as I keep imagining that my Spyder is getting louder...
Thanks for a great write-up; I'm going to print this whole thing out when it comes time to crawl around under the bike a little bit...:clap:

[Crisis]

What are the symptoms that you need to replace these gaskets. I have 7,500 miles on my RS SE5.
Thanks




Tools: Metric sockets, Socket extensions, Pry bar (optional), ATV lift or ramps, and either wood blocks or floor jack to support Y manifold.

Oh... And a big rubber mallet and anger management. * Very important.

A second pair of hands is required for only five minutes towards the end of the install. My wife was able to do this no problem.

Parts: Either the BRP Y gaskets or the Honda GL 1800 Gaskets. The Honda Gaskets will last longer according to others here that have used them. They are also cheaper. Part number for the Honda GL1800 gasket is 18392-MAM-000

First... This is what we are talking about below in the picture. You will need to remove the lower kick panels on both sides for the best access. I found that to be easiest, though getting the pipes back together was a challenge. Left side and then right side in pics below.
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/exhaust.jpg
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/exhaust2.jpg

This is what we need to get in there. A new Gasket on the left and right side.
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/example.jpg


You will need to have the Spyder elevated several inches to do this comfortably.

Before you start attacking the pipes, have a floor jack or stack of wood handy to support the entire Y pipe manifold from underneath.

To start disassembly, you will need to remove the spring on each side. I used a pair of vice grips but others have used some sort of hooked tool.

You then will want to loosen the 10mm bolt on each clamp assembly in the pictures above.

You will need to unhook the rubber exhaust hanger that is supporting the whole assembly. it is easier to slide it off the top hook. Please make sure you have blocking in place to support the pipes, as you do not want to put pressure on the O2 sensor wire harness which feeds back up above the swing arm.

Hanger and O2 sensor are noted in the following pics:
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/hang.jpg
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/hanger.jpg

Picture with the jack in place to support the whole assembly as I worked it loose. Floor jack was nice as I screwed the white plate on the jack up or down as I needed play... You could do the same with multiple wood boards in a stack.

http://snailbarf.com/spyder/jack2.jpg

Once you have the jack in place, you can loosen the muffler bolt found here:
http://snailbarf.com/spyder/muff.jpg

Now you can fully loosen the pipe clamps if you haven't already and work the Y manifold free from the headers.

Once they are free, you will need to pull the old gaskets out. I found pulling them out to be a challenge. The left side was in great shape and was the hardest to pull out. The right side wasn't terrible, but it wasn't in as good shape as the left side and pulled out rather easily. In fact, I was surprised by the right side. I thought it would have been in worse shape than it was. You will probably find that the old gaskets are baked onto and into the female ends of the Y-Pipe.

No you can take the new gaskets and place them on the male ends of the header pipes which is the header side of the connection. It should look like the picture below.

http://snailbarf.com/spyder/fitting.jpg

That is about it. A second pair of hands is handy. Let me say that getting the pipes up over the new gasket and fully seated required some anger, some light prying, and the application of anger via a large rubber mallet. Once I had the lower pipe on one side started by hand, I used the mallet to smack that side from the bottom of the manifold. Got one side up half way, had my wife hold it to make sure it didn't slip, and then worked on the other side. Used the mallet to fully seat them, partially tightened the clamps, and reinstalled the springs.

The service manual calls for 13 Nm or 115 pounds of torque. Pretty sure that 115 is a misprint as that is way different than 13Nm. I set the torque wrench at 15 pounds and finished tightening. The weird thing is that as the gaskets compress a bit and it screws with the torque wrench actually working normally. Just had to be careful.

EDIT AND NOTE ABOUT TORQUE ON THE CLAMPS ( FROM BILLYBOVINE) : Great post Wacky Dan but I don't think the service manual had a misprint. 13 Nm equals 115 pounds force inch. Maybe you confused it with pounds force foot wich would be 9.6. In that case you could have over torqued it.

After all that, make sure the rubber hanger is put back in place, and the muffler bolt is tightened again!

Start up the bike, let it run for 5 minutes or so. You will smell the new gaskets "cooking" in. After that I put the wrench back on the clamps for another 1/4 turn or so.

I think that sums it up. This wasn't hard at all. I already had the bike torn down for oil change and plug changes so this was a good time to do these and upgrade to the honda parts.

My biggest pain was just getting the pipes back together as they don't line up nicely, though yours might versus mine. I could do this in under an hour now that I've done it once.

I hope this helps those that don't understand what the Gaskets are or where they go and some of the steps in photos needed to get them done. If I missed something, let me know.

[NancysToy]

What are the symptoms that you need to replace these gaskets. I have 7,500 miles on my RS SE5.
Thanks
Increased heat on thighs, especially on right side; Louder exhaust; possible exhaust popping or "backfiring"; visible leakage upon removal of body panels.

[GaryTheBadger]

No need for a mallet. Line-up both sides, then use a floorjack to push each pipe up. Worked perfectly today, no swearing.

[LittleJohn]

Take your time goin back togetherFinally got out and replaced my Y gaskets this past weekend.
This thread with associated pictures was invaluable!!!! Thanks to all who contributed!!!
Some observations;

I cut the zip tie on the O2 sensor wire to give me more slack....worked good.
Take your time goin back together. If its all lined up right it goes pretty easy.

[cyclelover63]

What are the symptoms that you need to replace these gaskets. I have 7,500 miles on my RS SE5.
Thanks

I was installing BRP passenger peg extensions and Baja Ron's spark plug wires tonight and I started my 2009 GS up with the side panels off and heard a loud rumble...If you put your hand down by the exhaust pipe where the gasket is before the exhaust gets hot,you can feel it leaking....I didn't notice any extra heat or noise..It probably happens so gradual,you don't realize it...now I know why i saved this thread to my favorites...What a big help and great instructions!..:bowdown:

[prmurat]

My RT is in for its 9000 miles tune up...(+ rear tire, swaybar) and an exhaust leak: looks like the Honda gasket is only for the RS not the RT???

[Fire911]

Add me to the list of thankful backyard mechanics, specially since i did it in the back yard because I have no garage. This was an excellent instruction.

The hardest part was removing all the plastics. I bought some ramps and a rubber mallet as suggested, i had everything else I would need. Took a ride to the Honda dealer and picked up a couple of Y gaskets. I went through the owners manual to remove plastics, first time for me. No problems with clamp bolts although next time they may be more rusted. The right side gasket was completely missing, hopefully it disintegrated and didn't get stuck some where downstream. The left side looked good and it came out really easy. Put in new gaskets and the pipes went back together great with a little persuasion from my new rubber mallet. no 2nd person assistance needed. Torqued as stated and then ran the bike for a while then re-torqued. replaced springs and hangers and plastic. Sounds a whole lot better now.


This forum is awesome:yes::clap:

[FaranH]

Len and SpyderPops diagnosed a faulty Y-gasket on my 2011 RSS while we were in Branson with the MOGang. I just found this thread and it sounds like something I would attempt to do myself, but I know I don't have the right tools. So I'm sending a link to my dad so he can read up before we tackle this replacement. I still love being my dad's helper on greasy projects like this. ;) Wish us luck!

Thanks to WackyDan for taking the time to write it up so carefully. And for the other good suggestions for avoiding the need for anger management along the way.:yikes:

[twain]

Replaced my gaskets yesterday with Honda parts. Right side half way gone and left pretty brittle. Video was excellent tutorial. Thanks

[WackyDan]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I enjoyed doing some of the videos and how to posts a lot. I've been mostly MIA due to work and Leah.

Leah is the perfect excuse for anything actually.

[KX5062]

I just did mine at 13k. The right side was completely burned out and the left was mostly intact, but leaking.

This thread has some excellent tips, which I've read after the fact. :joke:

However, I wanted to add my .02 that the Honda gaskets are THE only way to go. The quality of the part is far beyond the stock Can Am part. No Spyder owner should even consider going OEM with the Honda gasket being so much superior and a 1/3 of the cost. :thumbup:

[AbNormy]

Thanks. Is this the same as a 12RT? Invaluable info! :thumbup:

From Deep in the Hart of Texas!

[WackyDan]

Thanks. Is this the same as a 12RT? Invaluable info! :thumbup:

From Deep in the Hart of Texas!

Yup... For the most part anyway, you guys with the RTs have different panels to deal with, but the same design of the pipes, etc are there.

Not sure about the 2013's, but they are probably close enough due to have the same engine. The new BRP gaskets are said to be improved so the first factory set should last longer than the old ones on the newer Spyders... I have 20k on my honda gaskets and no issues so far.

[NancysToy]

Yup... For the most part anyway, you guys with the RTs have different panels to deal with, but the same design of the pipes, etc are there.

Not sure about the 2013's, but they are probably close enough due to have the same engine. The new BRP gaskets are said to be improved so the first factory set should last longer than the old ones on the newer Spyders... I have 20k on my honda gaskets and no issues so far.

:lecturef_smilie: The 2010-2012 RT pipes/gaskets are not the same design as the 2008-2012 GS/RS...nor do I believe they are the same size.

[WackyDan]

:lecturef_smilie: The 2010-2012 RT pipes/gaskets are not the same design as the 2008-2012 GS/RS...nor do I believe they are the same size.

Good to know. Anyone ever find a honda or other alternative for those models then?

2008 GS JOINT DE TUYAU *SLIP JOINT
707600546 (replaces 707600337)

2010-2013 RT and ST JOINT TUYAU *SLIP JOINT
707600650

[master1309]

Can someone give me the Honda part numbers for these gaskets please? Thank you

[master1309]

:congrats: You should definitely be able to tell a difference. Part Numbers please. Thnx

[tobor9]

Honda #18392-MAM-000

[master1309]

Is the Honda part number for the Y gasket for the muffler??

[NancysToy]

Is the Honda part number for the Y gasket for the muffler??

No, it is for the 2008-2012 GS/RS (upper) y-pipe gaskets. There is no Honda equivalent for the muffler gasket or the gaskets on other models. They have to be purchased from BRP.

[Joel]

Changed both on my 2011 RSS today using Honda #18392-MAM-000, this post really made the whole process easy.

[ulflyer]

My RT is getting louder and while at shop the other day I asked the mechanic how long it took to replace them and he said 2 hours, but not to worry about it until it got louder or started to backfire. With 29K, I'll stretch it out a little longer and try to time it when some warranty work is being done to possibly save a few bucks. They're still trying to figure why I keep getting a "faulty brake" light so it'll be back in for more tinkering sooner or later. The $1000 VCM replacement didn't do the trick!

[Mickay]

Oil brake need to be top full. Oil level brake sensor is very sensitive.



My RT is getting louder and while at shop the other day I asked the mechanic how long it took to replace them and he said 2 hours, but not to worry about it until it got louder or started to backfire. With 29K, I'll stretch it out a little longer and try to time it when some warranty work is being done to possibly save a few bucks. They're still trying to figure why I keep getting a "faulty brake" light so it'll be back in for more tinkering sooner or later. The $1000 VCM replacement didn't do the trick!

[Mickay]

Hi,

Anyone could please take measurment of the gasket,,,

so could search for a universal one, like 163994 163995

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-Motorcycle-Exhaust-Silencer-Gasket-Joint-Seal-Exhaust-Gasket/32829701419.html

Suzuki, KTM, Universal, Honda, Ducati, Aprilia

[QuadRAGIN]

That is not the part number. That Honda part is about a 1/2" too small in diameter

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

That is not the part number. That Honda part is about a 1/2" too small in diameter

If you were answering " Mickay " !!!!!! ..... His post is over 5 years old..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup: